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Topic: Fridge does not work on 120V AC if DC fuse is blown (Read 143 times) previous topic - next topic
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Fridge does not work on 120V AC if DC fuse is blown
I just wanted to pass this along and get people's opinions on why this works this way.

A couple of weeks ago while replacing our energenious power center faceplate, I touched something wrong and got a nice big spark. 
We were running on shore power and didn't notice anything for several hours and then noticed the fridge was off.
We checked the AC/DC panel and noticed the fridge DC fuse was blown.
We replaced the DC fuse for the fridge and all worked well again.

So my question is...
When running the fridge on propane we need the DC current & the fuse.
But why when running on AC do we need that DC fuse to be working?

Just curious,
Jane
Jane & Scott
Currently have a 1989 TK  LD we did a lot of upgrades on.
Bigfoot 25RQ Twin on order with early summer 2024 ETA

Our smartphone autocorrects into very poor English.
 We disclaim the illusion of ignorance this creates as we have enough ignorance we rightly claim.
Re: Fridge does not work on 120V AC if DC fuse is blown
Reply #1 –
Quote from: JandS2  - 
I just wanted to pass this along and get people's opinions on why this works this way.

A couple of weeks ago while replacing our energenious power center faceplate, I touched something wrong and got a nice big spark. 
We were running on shore power and didn't notice anything for several hours and then noticed the fridge was off.
We checked the AC/DC panel and noticed the fridge DC fuse was blown.
We replaced the DC fuse for the fridge and all worked well again.

So my question is...
When running the fridge on propane we need the DC current & the fuse.
But why when running on AC do we need that DC fuse to be working?

I have no idea why you were 'sparked' but I would be concern how the inverter's ground and neutral are wired.
You may have a "hot skin"problem. Sparks are not normal.

The refrigerator's control board and gas valve both operate on 12-volts, no matter if it is plugged in or not.
Shore power runs runs the converter, which charges the battery that provides 12-volt power to the refrigerator's control board and valve.
The source of the refrigerator's heat source does change when switching from a propane flame to a 120-volt electric heater.

Larry

Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Fridge does not work on 120V AC if DC fuse is blown
Reply #2 –
Larry thanks for the info.

No hot skin but the cover was metal and I think I touched two opposites corners just right on things, one being that fuse.  I would not be surprised to find hot screws etc inside that would never be exposed in today’s equipment (I have seen that in 1950s light fixtures).

The whole old power center is on the task list to be replaced this week and I will rest a little easier knowing we are on newer equipment and that our batteries are being charged with a 4 stage charger (vs  our current 2 stage one).
Jane & Scott
Currently have a 1989 TK  LD we did a lot of upgrades on.
Bigfoot 25RQ Twin on order with early summer 2024 ETA

Our smartphone autocorrects into very poor English.
 We disclaim the illusion of ignorance this creates as we have enough ignorance we rightly claim.
Re: Fridge does not work on 120V AC if DC fuse is blown
Reply #3 –
J and S. Don't be plugged in (or have the generator running) while you are working on the AC electrical system. Use a portable light plugged in separate from the RV. RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
 
Re: Fridge does not work on 120V AC if DC fuse is blown
Reply #4 –
Ron,

Yes good advice.

Along with do not trust, test with a voltmeter to make sure there really is no voltage at that spot before sticking fingers or tools near electricity.

I had finished working on it so electricity was back on but I hadn't yet put the cover/door back on yet (it sat to the side for a couple hours).
And I am too comfortable with electricity to turn it off for that - just a fluke thing where the cover slipped in my hands a bit and a corner dipped inside the box 1/8" or so. I caught something just right combined with an older - not at today's standards component. Newer covers I have seen for houses would have prevented/ made it very difficult for something like that to happen (overlaps lips etc that our old power center does not have).

Jane

Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone
Jane & Scott
Currently have a 1989 TK  LD we did a lot of upgrades on.
Bigfoot 25RQ Twin on order with early summer 2024 ETA

Our smartphone autocorrects into very poor English.
 We disclaim the illusion of ignorance this creates as we have enough ignorance we rightly claim.