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Manual Step Repair Question
HI,
1997 RB. The lower left carriage bolt that holds my manual step is beginning to pull through the step plywood. The remaining 3 bolts are solid.  My personal thought on repair is to insert a thin sheet of steel over the plywood and drill 4 new holes for the bolts. But that leaves a bolt head sticking up beneath the rubber mat. Maybe I could countersink the bolts a bit, but that weakens the plate as well. Suggestions?

Chuck
Hartford IA
1997 RB

Re: Manual Step Repair Question
Reply #1
Could you add a piece of plywood over the metal sheet with a hole cut out for the bolt, then put the rubber pad over it?
That would make it a flush surface.
2004 26.5 MB
Enjoying retirement traveling, Rzr riding, photography, and of course the 2 grand girls!

Re: Manual Step Repair Question
Reply #2
You could drill a new hole from the bottom through the flange of the step and use a short lag bolt. I can not estimate the length of the lag bolt. Actually, since the bolts are not aligned with the holes, they bind in the holes. Just try to remove the step and you will see what I mean. So three bolts should work fine. Any wiggle with weight on it?
Don & Dorothy
Sold our LD in June of 2023

Our boring always non-PC travel blog
Traveling Dorothy

Re: Manual Step Repair Question
Reply #3
I would check wood quality.  For good wood  I would replace the carriage bolt and put a fender washer under the carriage bolt head, tighten and reseal the step attachment to the the wood.  Then buy and use a step support.  One support is usually enough, we all seem to step on the same corner each time any way.
Rodney
1988 Mid Bath

Re: Manual Step Repair Question
Reply #4
Thanks for the suggestions. They are all good. I will take a serious look at my options today, ie., tear something apart :) Not aware of step supports, will do a search.
1997 RB

Re: Manual Step Repair Question
Reply #5
The area around the bolt hole is broken up in the 3/4 inch plywood. Looks like some water had gotten in there at some time, probably from the tire. Its dry now and the rest of the wood looks good. I'll probably replace the plywood because I'm an anal guy and don't want to do it again down the road.

I'll think I'll call the factory and see if there is any tricks I need to know before I tear into this thing further. I'll take pics if anyone is interested.

Chuck
1997 RB

Re: Manual Step Repair Question
Reply #6
Water gets into the step area either from a leaky entry door or from below.
The wood is exposed or, at best, covered with a asphalt emulsion undercoating. The rubber, interior step covering traps any water that gets under it
Trying to use just three bolts will tear things uneven more, the step's carriage bolts have a lot of pressure on them, due to the cantilevered metal step.
It's may be time to slowly disassemble the step, down to where there is good wood and no rot.
During and after the repair, use an exterior undercoating on all the exposed wood.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze

Re: Manual Step Repair Question
Reply #7
Vince at the factory was not too helpful on how to dismantle the step. He thought my steel plate idea was better, IF I fixed the leak. I'm quite certain the water was coming in from the side area, in front of the tires since I could easily remove the sealant in that corner.  I think replacing the plywood is a better idea, IF I can figure out how to remove it carefully. Has anyone repaired a step like this? Any suggestions on how to proceed? I just don't want to use my Sawzall :)

Thanks
Chuck
1997 RB

Re: Manual Step Repair Question
Reply #8
I removed some screws and did some prying and got the crappy 2 x 2 step support off. The step is somewhat weak in the corner but the rest is quite solid. I hesitate to do more removal, especially with all the staples. I think I'm going to scab in some plywood somehow from below, and replace the 2 x 2. Caulk the crap out of it and then use automotive body seal. Then, I'll probably install a steel plate on top of the step to distribute load for the bolts. I'm also going to install a step support.

I'll try to find some fender bolts if they are long enough with the steel plate, then re-install the rubber mat.

Here are two pics, from the top looking down and from the bottom looking away from the rig. That silver looking piece underneath is the door frame. Lovely :)
1997 RB

Re: Manual Step Repair Question
Reply #9
Once you cut and drill the replacement piece of plywood you might want to put a couple coats of CPES on it.  That should assure of no rot going forward.
CPES™-Wood based epoxy products to repair and resist wood rot.
2004 26.5 MB
Enjoying retirement traveling, Rzr riding, photography, and of course the 2 grand girls!

Re: Manual Step Repair Question
Reply #10
I'll try to find some fender bolts if they are long enough with the steel plate, then re-install the rubber mat.
I would epoxy the new wood pieces in place.
When replacing the bolts, use elevator bolts, they have flat heads,
Elevator Screws & Bolts | Amazon.com

Use a good polyurethane to seal the wheel well and any other seams and gaps.
My usual suggestion.
3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 Fast Cure White, 06535, 1 oz tube (Pack of...

Larry
In warm and humid Portland
As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze

Re: Manual Step Repair Question
Reply #11
Thanks for the additional suggestions everyone.  I like the epoxy ideas and the elevator bolts. I knew those types of bolts where out there but did not realize what they were called.
1997 RB

Re: Manual Step Repair Question
Reply #12
If you can live with 1/4-20 bolts, garage door bolts might do, and are easy to pick up at Lowe's/Home Depot in the garage door area (of all places.)  They're basically flat head carriage bolts -- no rounded head, but they have the square boss to dig into the wood.  Another easily available substitute is the venerable T-nut.  They're pretty flush when hammered in, and a long barrel can give very good holding power.  True elevator bolts have larger heads than either of these options, though.

Chip
2000 Front Lounge

Re: Manual Step Repair Question
Reply #13
When I need fasteners I check McMaster. They are fast and resaonable,including shipping.
McMaster-Carr
Paul
'92 Mid Bath

Re: Manual Step Repair Question
Reply #14
For wood that is used outdoors I have a habit I learned from living on a houseboat while in college.  The above mentioned CPES system is just the part to fit the bill.
Take the wood and apply a coating of Fiberglass resin to it.  The thinner the mixture the better it soaks in and turns hard.  Have the holes pre drilled and cover the wood completely with the mixed resin, focus on the end grains especially as they suck up a lot of epoxy when doing this.  Marine supply stores will have something that made for this purpose and of course the price goes with it.
This will ensure that the wood will last a long time and endure decades of rainstorms without issues.

I hope that this helps a bit!  I wish you the best in resolving this issue on your Lazy Daze!
Chris and Carolyn McCloskey
Fairfax, Virginia

 
Re: Manual Step Repair Question
Reply #15
Hello All,

I ended up using two pieces of 1 1/2 inch wide by 1/8th thick steel the width of the step (left to right as you enter) to support the step attachment bolts. The steel rests on top of the step plywood, the rubber mat covers the steel. I chipped out the bad plywood and portions of the 2 x 2.  I used JB Weld's Wood Epoxy Putty and screws to replace portions of the 2 x 2 and 1/4 and 3/8 inch plywood. I built a new 2 x 3 piece that acts as the spacer beneath the wooden and steel steps. I then installed painted sheetmetal across the entire side of the step and that faces the tire. Then I poly caulked the crap out of it. THEN...I attached an external step support. All solid as hell.

But, before I did all that, I removed the door window, latch and locks, then resealed. I also straightened the door and installed a new D gasket to the door itself.  Water was getting into the door latch area and running down to the step corner which caused the destruction.

Moral of the story, make sure your door seals correctly and the gasket does it job. Fix wet spots ASAP!!
1997 RB