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Reactivating fresh water after Winterization
Hi all, I'm seeking some technical guidance during my first time reactivating the fresh water system, after winterizing by compressed air.

I've followed the LD manual guidelines as follows:
1.  Closed fresh water drain valve, and refilled (to 2/3 full).
2.  Ensured all faucets were closed.
3.  Turned on water pump.  Opened cold faucet nearest pump...

I heard the pump turn on and stay on.  I opened the bathroom sink cold faucet, which is the closest one to the pump.  It did splutter air and then a very slow stream of water.  After a couple of minutes the pump turned off, and no more water came out the faucet.  I turned on the shower cold faucet and a good flow came out and shortly the pump turned on again. 

I next tried the kitchen cold faucet and it pretty much was the same as the bathroom sink.  I'm not getting much out of the hot water faucets at all.

Please help.  Is there air trapped in the system, or do I have a more serious issue like a failing pump?

Matt (02 RK)
Re: Reactivating fresh water after Winterization
Reply #1 –
If you drained the hot water tank, it takes a while to refill it with the water pump.  I'd close all the cold water faucets, open a hot water faucet, and turn on the water pump and if the HW tank is nearly empty, the pump should run until the HW tank is full and water comes out of the hot water side.  Close all faucets and let the system pressurize.  The water pump should turn off then.  Hope this helps.
Re: Reactivating fresh water after Winterization
Reply #2 –
Thanks Traxless.   Currently, unless I'm running the cold shower faucet, the pump is not coming on. 

I loosened the inner drain plug on the water heater and water did start draining out, so there is at least some water in there.

Matt
Re: Reactivating fresh water after Winterization
Reply #3 –
Matt,

I did mine a couple of days ago.  I opened the cold faucet nearest the pump until I got flow and then closed it, then went to the farthest one (bath sink) on my RB and let it go until solid flow.  Closed and let the pump cycle off.  So, solid flow from the cold, pump built pressure and shut off, then I opened the hot side on the bath sink and waited.  Remember the water heater is at least 6 gals., maybe more on yours, so it may take the pump a bit for it to fill and push water through the tank and out to a faucet. 

Now, if the pump doesn't come on when any hot faucet is open, is there anything coming out of the faucets, or is as if they're not open?

Hope this is helpful!
Bill
2003 -- 23' FL
Re: Reactivating fresh water after Winterization
Reply #4 –
While you're at it. This is the perfect time to do the annual bleach treatment to your water system.

Ed
Re: Reactivating fresh water after Winterization
Reply #6 –
Quote from: krmugn  - 
Now, if the pump doesn't come on when any hot faucet is open, is there anything coming out of the faucets, or is as if they're not open?

All helpful to this novice!  At this time, water is only coming out of the cold shower faucet; maybe a dribble from the hot shower faucet.  Nothing, not even air splutter, from the others, including the outside shower.

Matt
Re: Reactivating fresh water after Winterization
Reply #7 –
Quote from: Overlander  - 
What does that process involve Ed?  Thanks

The Owners Manual, which I do not have handy, recommends that once a year the fresh water system be treated with a mild bleach solution to kill the tadpoles, algae, etc.
 Don't recall the amount of bleach to use, but the book has the info.

Ed
Re: Reactivating fresh water after Winterization
Reply #8 –
One possible cause of low water flow is clogged strainers/aerators that are attached to the spigot.

Remove them and try again. They may be clogged with white 'rocks'.

Ed
Re: Reactivating fresh water after Winterization
Reply #9 –
Is the hot water heater winterization isolation valve closed?  A previous owner may have installed a winterization kit and the valves are set incorrectly. They would be on the back of the water heater.
Rodney
1988 Mid Bath
Re: Reactivating fresh water after Winterization
Reply #10 –
Quote from: rodneyhelfrich  - 
Is the hot water heater winterization isolation valve closed?  A previous owner may have installed a winterization kit and the valves are set incorrectly. They would be on the back of the water heater.

Would this be something you manually switch?  I did the Winterization and did not do anything with the water heater other than drain it.

Update:  I did just run the dribble of the hot shower faucet, and the water pump did eventually kick on but the water flow has not changed.  I did notice a small dribble of water from the shower faucet - could a small leak like that break the system pressure?

Matt
Re: Reactivating fresh water after Winterization
Reply #11 –
 It is very difficult for me to check on an RB but many times a check valve is installed on the outlet of the water heater and they are known to stick closed. If you can view the outlet of the water heater check for an extra fitting there. If so, that would be a check valve. They can be very difficult to remove. You could tap it with a hammer to try and dislodge it. If that doesn't work you can drill out the center so that it passes water. These are just possibilities.
Harry 2006RB
Re: Reactivating fresh water after Winterization
Reply #12 –
The dreaded white slag....
When the water heater warms up it flakes some I think from the menerals in the water.  You may want to turn off the water pump. Remove the bathroom sink aerator, shower and kitchen sink head.  On the list for next time, remove the HWtank drain plug and spray water in the tank to flush some of the white slag (crud) out.  A wand would do a better job (but I do not have one dedicated for fresh water lines).

I am coming to this thread late.  Generally I hook up to city water to fill the water heater and lines.  That way there is less stress on my pump. 
John
07MB
Currently: 2008 36' Tiffin Open Road
Previously: 2007 Mid Bath
Re: Reactivating fresh water after Winterization
Reply #13 –
I think Ed and John may have nailed it.  There's me looking for a more complex solution, when it's really as simple as it gets. 

Both the sprainers on the bath and kitchen faucets were clogged with a grainy substance.  Both hot and cold run well now, after some initial air spluttering.

I'll check the shower heads out tomorrow.

LD experts to the rescue once again - thank you!

Matt
Re: Reactivating fresh water after Winterization
Reply #14 –
Matt,
I learned by asking here after a similar problem the first year I had the LD.
Currently: 2008 36' Tiffin Open Road
Previously: 2007 Mid Bath
Re: Reactivating fresh water after Winterization
Reply #15 –
You can prevent this from reoccurring by removing the aerators before you blow out the lines.
This will allow crud in the lines to be blown out by the high pressure air.
Then put the aerators/Shower head  back in finger tight then remove again before you turn on the pump in Spring time. Now your lines are nice and clean. They have been flushed with air and water.

Ed
Re: Reactivating fresh water after Winterization
Reply #16 –
Matt,
Sorry, I thought you just purchased the LD.
Rodney
1988 Mid Bath
Re: Reactivating fresh water after Winterization
Reply #17 –
I put the faucet strainers back on this morning and cleaned the shower heads.  All seems to be working well, although I just realized I need to check the toilet sprayer.

I do still have a small leak at the shower hose connection/faucet.  I've read through prior posts about replacing this faucet, but only found reference to the MB model which has an access panel.  I don't believe my 02 RK has such a panel, so is there a trick for removing my faucet?

Matt
Re: Reactivating fresh water after Winterization
Reply #18 –
Looking at the floor plan,  you may have to look under or behined the cook top /oven.
Rodney
1988 Mid Bath
Re: Reactivating fresh water after Winterization
Reply #19 –
Thanks, with your help I found the access point.  For those with the RK, access is gained through the outside hatch, below/behind the oven.

I've removed the faucet and the source of the leak appears to be a crack in the thread the hose screws on to.  I'll be looking for a replacement.

There was a serious amount of caulking behind the faucet, which mostly crumbled away.  Any idea what the caulking product I should use for the replacement?

Matt
 
Re: Reactivating fresh water after Winterization
Reply #20 –
Mount the faucet with putty tape from the shower side.  Putty tape is the same as plumbers putty, just in strips.

The serious amount behind the faucet,  I don't know!  Maybe they used putty tape or plumbers putty as sound deadener or to stiffen the shower wall.
Rodney
1988 Mid Bath