SMI Stay-In-Play cable broke October 03, 2016, 09:55:21 pm For five years I've used an SMI Stay-In-Play Duo auxiliary braking system on my Ford Fiesta toad. The SMI uses a vacuum-actuated cylinder mounted on the brake pedal arm. A cable from the cylinder attaches to a clamp on the firewall. Normally the cable is slack. To apply the brake, vacuum is sent to the cylinder, causing the cable to tighten, which pulls the cylinder, and thus the brake pedal, toward the firewall.After five years the cable broke. I phoned SMI. The person I spoke with did not sound at all surprised. He offered to repair the cylinder (with a stronger cable) and return it by FedEx Ground, all for free, even though the product was a few months out of warranty. I could also pay a bit extra for quicker return shipping. I sent them the broken cylinder and got the repaired cylinder as promised.When I removed the cylinder, I found that the screws holding the cylinder to the mounting bracket were very loose.Replacing the cylinder would be easy if everything were easily accessible, but it's not, so I used the dealer locator on SMI's web site to find someone to do the work. Most of the "dealers" I phoned had never heard of SMI, and had no idea why they were listed as a dealer.I did find someone to do the work. The technician told me that the firewall clamp had been attached to the firewall with a self-tapping screw, which was being pulled out. Also, the electrical contacts in the breakaway switch were corroded, preventing the breakaway switch from operating.What I conclude from all this:The cable break was a design flaw. With luck, the stronger replacement cable fixes the problem.The loose screws holding the cylinder to the mounting bracket are a design flaw. With the cylinder installed, the screws face toward the center console, making them inaccessible. If they get very loose, it will be possible to move the cylinder relative to the mounting bracket.On a Ford Fiesta, there's no good way to tell if the brake is really being applied. When towing, the battery must be disconnected, so the car's brake light circuit can't be used as an indicator.SMI has many fewer dealers than their dealer locator suggests.
Re: SMI Stay-In-Play cable broke Reply #1 – October 04, 2016, 12:21:42 am The same thing happened to me. The clamp was almost impossible to remove. It was mounted up high on the brake pedal arm and my fat fingers just could not fit to get a wrench on it.I received a replacement from SMI and sort of got it all back together, but will find a dealer, probably in Yuma in a couple of weeks (I'm in Utah now) and have them reinstall it a bit better.In Yuma, Just For Towing is a good SMI dealer and has their own installers. They did the original install of the Jeep portion.
Re: SMI Stay-In-Play cable broke Reply #2 – October 04, 2016, 08:31:30 am Quote from: latljus - October 03, 2016, 09:55:21 pmWhen I removed the cylinder, I found that the screws holding the cylinder to the mounting bracket were very loose.I did find someone to do the work. The technician told me that the firewall clamp had been attached to the firewall with a self-tapping screw, which was being pulled out. Also, the electrical contacts in the breakaway switch were corroded, preventing the breakaway switch from operating.Thank you for posting this. For those of us who use the Stay-n-Play (or the air-brake sibling AirForce 1), inspecting the cylinder mounting screws should become part of the routine equipment check.Interesting note on the self-tapping screw on the cable clamp. There's a note in the installation guide to make sure it doesn't hit anything in the engine compartment when screwed in. In our 2014 CR-V, it was screwed right into the car's brake booster. It wasn't obvious when it happened, but we kept getting a CEL light that threw a vacuum leak code the first time we'd drive the car after towing. The light would go out and stay out until the next tow incident. The Honda dealer couldn't figure it out. After several discussions with and testing instructions from Logan at SMI Steve finally found the culprit. The installer made us whole by having the brake booster replaced (genuine Honda part) on their dime and used a bolt and nut instead of the self-tapping screw for the reinstall of the cable clamp.
Re: SMI Stay-In-Play cable broke Reply #3 – October 04, 2016, 09:17:27 am "Also, the electrical contacts in the breakaway switch were corroded, preventing the breakaway switch from operating."The guy that installed my SMI system recently, said that before you tow, pull the breakaway "plug" on the vehicle and then verify that the vehicle brakes were, in fact, being applied. That way you know the entire system is working.Ed
Re: SMI Stay-In-Play cable broke Reply #4 – October 04, 2016, 10:37:46 am We have had the SMI for over 8 years. We have also run into the situation where dealers on the list don't actually know anything about it. We had a minor issue a couple of years ago and had a difficult time finding someone who could work on it.When we had the system transferred to our Subaru in October 2012 we used Statkus in Albuquerque. I spoke with them in advance and they assured me that they were familiar with the system. Yet the mechanic had never seen it before and spent time on the phone with SMI trying to figure out the install. In the end the problem we had fixed later was a result of their install.Jim
Re: SMI Stay-In-Play cable broke Reply #5 – October 04, 2016, 12:16:12 pm Breakaway switches on all toad brakes eventually fail.SMI uses the same breakaway switch as other tow brake manufacturers. Being on the front of the toad, it is exposed to rain and other debris thrown up from the road. Keeping a spare plug in the switch, while it isn't being towed, helps keep the switch clean but doesn't keep everything out.Any toad brake is going to have issues as time passes. In the 13 years we have used an SMI brake, I have replaced the check valve and a couple hoses, due to vacuum leaks. I do not like to use self-tapping screws for cable pulley, preferring to use a bolts and locking nuts. Self-tappers can loosen and fall out.Larry
Re: SMI Stay-In-Play cable broke Reply #6 – October 04, 2016, 11:15:10 pm "Being on the front of the toad, it is exposed to rain and other debris thrown up from the road."Wrap it a piece of aluminum foil to keep it mostly clean and dry.Ed
Re: SMI Stay-In-Play cable broke Reply #7 – October 07, 2016, 11:08:52 am My two cents worth. Braking systems like SMI are unknown by most RV service tech's. That's why I installed ours, so I would know how it works and be able to trouble shoot any problems down range. Yeah, it's difficult for an old body to work upside down under the dash, but I managed it for the first install and again when I got a Rubicon. OK, I did have the Jeep dealer splice a wire from the brake light switch for me as the terminals were way the heck up in there.Every two years or so, it will blow a fuse. I know it's got to be one of three fuses, so the repair is quick. I would hate to pay the shop rate for a "tech" to find it.I have never had to disconnect the battery to jeep it from being drained. I suspect someone did not follow SMI instructions. We have towed for days in a row without ever starting the Jeep and the battery is fully charged.I wonder if the wire broke because it was not a straight pull, but binding on something? I also wonder if the setting for the brakes to come on was "too high". I have mine set so that a light foot on the brake does NOT cause the toad brake to engage.I set it by "feel" I don't want the toad braking the LD.Toad brakes are far too important to me, to risk someone screwing them up. Prefer DIY.
Re: SMI Stay-In-Play cable broke Reply #8 – October 09, 2016, 01:28:18 pm Quote from: Don Malpas - October 07, 2016, 11:08:52 amI have never had to disconnect the batteryTo clarify, on the Ford Fiesta automatic, the owner's manual says to prepare for towing by shifting the transmission into neutral, and then disconnecting the battery. I think this is because the transmission is shifted electrically. Disconnecting the battery keeps the transmission locked in neutral.The cable is a short, straight run from the cylinder to the clamp on the firewall, with no interference. The cable flexes each time the brake pedal arm is moved, whether by the cylinder or by my foot. Since I drive the toad many more miles than I tow, it's likely that my stepping on the brake pedal is the proximate cause of the cable break. The old cable broke near the clamp. My guess is that it broke because of metal fatigue.The sensitivity on the SMI controller is set fairly low.I wish I had the skills and dexterity to install an auxiliary brake system myself.
Re: SMI Stay-In-Play cable broke Reply #9 – October 09, 2016, 02:03:36 pm "I wish I had the skills and dexterity to install an auxiliary brake system myself." In my opinion you already have the best aux. brake system available. You couldn't ask for more!I have run the SMI on two different vehicles, a 2002 Honda Civic and now a 2008 Honda CRV. No, I did not transfer the earlier model but instead went with the (then) current model. I have been quite satisfied with both over the many miles I've used them, including a trip to Alaska and back.
Re: SMI Stay-In-Play cable broke Reply #10 – October 17, 2016, 03:54:15 pm Quote from: latljus - October 03, 2016, 09:55:21 pmOn a Ford Fiesta, there's no good way to tell if the brake is really being applied. When towing, the battery must be disconnected, so the car's brake light circuit can't be used as an indicator.If the Fiesta battery is disconnected, I assume the LD battery/alternator is powering the SMI. The SMI should have an output for an indicator LED strip supplied with the unit to notify when the system is in operation. This can be mounted in the vehicle where you can see it, or a wire run to the dash of the LD and mount it there. When all hooked up, pull the breakaway switch plug to verify operation of both the switch and the SMI.Steve
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Topic: SMI Stay-In-Play cable broke (Read 371 times)
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