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Building a better LD
Has anyone else ever had the pleasure of repairing a section of their LD? While it definitely isn't that much fun, it is satisfying to go through the process of then buttoning up/locking down the entire rig against any further/other water intrusion.

However, perhaps the greatest advantage of digging into the LD internals is to see how it was actually made. For those that have had experience in the construction trades, or have built their own home/addition, it's quite illuminating to see how close the LD wooden coach conforms to standard construction techniques. And when you get to windows/doors, it pretty much follows king stud framing rules-of-thumb.

Really, about the only difference between an LD coach and a regular home is that LD uses 2'x3', versus the 2'x4' (and 4'x4' headers) found in stick & mortar houses. I believe (and could be wrong), that the reason other RV manufactures do not have the types of large, oversized picture windows we know & love, is because the aluminum frames they utilize do not have enough strength/internal rigidity to support that much open space of glass.

My guess is if they wanted to equal the strength/rigidity of wood with existing aluminum, it would probably be too expensive to have something that heavy and over-built. The end result is that LD continues to build out of wood in order to support their key selling point - large picture windows . In comparison, all the others tack up cheap aluminum frames, throw in a few tiny windows, add a slider and some faux elegant interiors for the 'wow factor', and call it good.

However, my interest pertains to methods one could utilize that would achieve the same level of rigidity as wood, but at a lighter weight, thereby allowing the use of the ... wait for it ... Transit chassis. I don't know if we have any boaters on this board, but I became interested in the high-performance, off-shore fishing boats that are all the rage in FL. (The same type that José Fernández killed himself with going over 55mph when he hit a jetty in the dark.)

These guys are stringing on 2-3-4 300+ HP outboards on special purpose fishing boats (eg center console without a cabin) that can run up to $750k. Because they go so fast, and are taken out in heavy seas far offshore, they are built to incredible standards of strength & rigidity. As in any segment with a lot of money & technology at stake, there are never ending debates about different kinds of composite materials, with some advocating pure fiberglass, while others assert cored fiberglass has a superior strength to weight ratio.



My question is: imagine if you could build a wooden framed coach strong enough to support large double pane windows with cored poly/wood 2x2, 1x2 or even 1x1 studs? The other obvious benefit is if it did get wet, the poly coating would protect the wood from rot.


Re: Building a better LD
Reply #1
If you have a coupla million idling, it could go for tooling up. Even carbon fiber or nano tech. I hope you will make a go of the venture.
Don & Dorothy
Sold our LD in June of 2023

Our boring always non-PC travel blog
Traveling Dorothy

Re: Building a better LD
Reply #2
The issue I have with building a better Lazy Daze is the small size of the extension frame used.
My 96 has a much smaller sized extension than the original Ford frame and over time this has allowed the rear
to sag a bit. The rear bumper on many LD's I've seen have some separation right where the frame extensions are underneath.
On mine, it's a bit worse because I carry my small dual sport motorcycle on a rack back there. Over time the flexing has caused this.
I'd like LD to use a much beefier extension frame, taking more of the flex out of this area and overall more robust.

On coach building techniques, the off road expedition vehicle makers use some very light weigh aluminum siding that would make a good way to build a cabin. They incorporate marine quality appliances and are often really expensive from using the best materials custom made to order.
Jota
96 23.5 FL

Re: Building a better LD
Reply #3
The rear bumper on many LD's I've seen have some separation right where the frame extensions are underneath.
On mine, it's a bit worse because I carry my small dual sport motorcycle on a rack back there. Over time the flexing has caused this.
I'd like LD to use a much beefier extension frame, taking more of the flex out of this area ...

I recently had a hitch/ welding shop strengthen the towing system so I would feel more comfortable dragging my Jeep around.
The guy that did the work identified, in his opinion, the LD bolted- on frame extension as the weak link in the towing system.
He used 1/4" x 6" flat stock steel. Welded it about 16" onto the main Ford frame, then onto the frame extension then onto the hitch. There is now one solid connection from the Ford frame to the hitch.
$145 worth of peace of mind. And maybe a stronger towing system.

Ed

 
Re: Building a better LD
Reply #4
I followed your lead Ed and went to see Ben Wilson in Moab. The MB is totally different from the TK. Nothing to add to, but he tacked welded the bumper to the frame extension, That will totally keep the bumper from sliding in the adjustable channel where the bolts are. I will never have to remember to tighten them again.

I will take use pictures along with one I took and add a topic to the Companion - after we get home.

Until then if someone is in the Moab area, call Ben 435 260-2044. Great man to work with.

PS, since no materials could be used to advantage on the MB, my bill was only $40.
Don & Dorothy
Sold our LD in June of 2023

Our boring always non-PC travel blog
Traveling Dorothy