Bladex Valve - very tight February 27, 2016, 09:36:57 am Yahoo Message Number: 159033Hello again..I searched under Bladex, and didn't see what I was looking for...'05 27MB - separate black and grey tank valves...As I'd said, we'd been on a 3 week trip... we had last emptied the tanks this past Monday, and they both emptied fine: easy, no issues..Then we went to dump them yesterday morning before we left for the last leg of our trip home, and I found the following:1. The black valve handle was very "stuck", and very difficult to open....I was able to get it open maybe an inch or so, and then push it back in, and repeated the process several times, never getting it to the fully open position...; readout indicated that it still had ~1/3 left in the tank....although it frequently reads 1/3 when it's empty....I suspect something stuck on a sensor...2. The gray tank valve handle wasn't much better....very hard to move, and never got it to fully open either.. it did appear that I was able to get it to empty. readout showed emptyThings I'd noticed:1. Temperature had never reached anywhere near freezing, and we had heat on in the rig at night: both the furnace and a ceramic heater;2. Rig was not exactly "level" - not horrible, but not perfectly level either....We're home now, and it's colder (34F for a low, and up to 55 in the days....). I don't have any "easy" way to dump either tank here at the house.. I did see a previous post (Joan?) about a new valve....Any thoughts appreciated.TIA,Bob
Re: Bladex Valve - very tight Reply #1 – February 27, 2016, 10:30:50 am Yahoo Message Number: 159035Have the valves been regularly lubricated? When we had our '02 MB, the valves always worked much smoother after lubricating them. I liked to spray some silicone spray on the valve seals and on the valve shafts, and work them several times. Mineral deposits like to build up inside the valves. If they have gotten really bad, I'd recommend replacing them before they might not open at all. They are fairly easy to replace on the MB.Art
Re: Bladex Valve - very tight Reply #2 – February 27, 2016, 10:55:03 am Yahoo Message Number: 159038The drain valves, slowly get dirty and harder to open and close. The metal shaft can seize and the internal slots, in which the valves slide, jam with debris and can prevent the valve from fully closing...drip, drip, drip.As Art pointed out, they are not hard to replace, after flushing the tanks well. It is also a good idea to carry a new pair or to disassemble the old valves, clean and lube and them use them as spares. The biggest problem you will run into, if the valves continue to be hard to open, is the handle or its shaft can break off, leaving no easy way to drain the tanks except by disassembling the drain valve assembly, a very, vey messy job, one you really don't need to experience.Larry
Re: Bladex Valve - very tight Reply #3 – February 27, 2016, 12:32:39 pm Yahoo Message Number: 159039Hello Art. I think my last resort would be to use a high pressure lubrication and "nuke" every part of the drains as I work the handles back and forth. I have a product called National Door Industries 400 Heavy Duty lubricant & Rust Prevention. The spray nozzle has 3 settings to include High. The can says it "loosens frozen parts." It might be able to penetrate into the areas that are binding. I found at least one (1) website that sales this product.400-HD National Door Lube 15oz Aerosol (Orange)Hope this information is helpful.Ed & Margee Fort Worth
Re: Bladex Valve - very tight Reply #4 – February 27, 2016, 02:11:19 pm Yahoo Message Number: 159040"...my last resort would be to use a high pressure lubrication and "nuke" every part of the drains as I work the handles back and forth. I have a product called National Door Industries 400 Heavy Duty lubricant & Rust Prevention. The spray nozzle has 3 settings to include High. The can says it "loosens frozen parts." It might be able to penetrate into the areas that are binding." ---- This product doesn't seem to me to be appropriate to "unstick" a dump valve. With the exception of the shaft and the handle (if aluminum), dump valve components are plastic and rubber.I suggest that the OP have replacement valve assemblies/gates *on hand* (see link below), then spray the silicone (use the "straw" that comes with the can) into the valve and work the handle *carefully* back and forth as far as it will go; repeat the process as necessary. Hopefully, the valve will open without the shaft breaking off (as Larry indicated, this event is to be avoided if at all possible!) and the tanks can be dumped and flushed.After the tanks are flushed (and assuming that the assembly is still intact), open the gate valves and clean the blade and the rubber assembly, including the blade groove; an old toothbrush (or other stiff, small brush), warm/hot water, and Simple Green are effective. After cleaning the gate valve assemblies, spray silicone on the blade, into the groove, and along the shaft; work the handle back and forth several times to distribute the lubricant.If the shaft breaks (if the *handle* comes off, the shaft can still be pulled and pushed using Vise Grips), you will be glad to have the replacement assembly on hand.It's a very good plan to carry a spare valve and dump hoses and fittings! .http://www.valterra.com/product-category/rv-products/aftermarket/sewer-sanitation/Good luck.Joan
Dump Valve Tight Reply #5 – February 27, 2016, 02:41:49 pm Yahoo Message Number: 159041You can replace the plastic handles with metal ones at very little cost. You can then use more force but you still need to clean and especially lube occasionally. $CW$ has die cast metal replacements usually in stock.
Re: Dump Valve Tight Reply #6 – February 27, 2016, 03:11:00 pm Yahoo Message Number: 159042If you replace the plastic handles with metal ones (which I have done), be sure to pad the extension tube (rod) before you grip it with pliers or vice grip. It needs to be held steady while you screw off the old handle and screw on the new one. If you mar or scar the extension tube with the gripping tool, you will cause a break in the seal where it meets up with the valve blade.Chris
Re: Dump Valve Tight Reply #7 – February 27, 2016, 04:38:12 pm Yahoo Message Number: 159044I can see that the aluminum dump valve handles would be less prone to breakage from twisting too hard or damage from hitting something than the plastic handles, but, AFAIK, both the plastic and the aluminum handles have the same number of threads holding the handle on to the shaft. That connection seems to me to be the essential point of any weakness, whether the handle itself is plastic or aluminum. http://www.valterra.com/product/bladex-valve-handle-metal-bulk/?pcat_id=1448http://www.valterra.com/product/bladex-valve-handle-plastic-gray-bulk/?pcat_id=1448I do know of one person who replaced the plastic shaft handles with aluminum because her dog chewed the plastic ones! ;-)Joan
Re: Dump Valve Tight Reply #8 – February 27, 2016, 05:03:07 pm Yahoo Message Number: 159045Lube the valves when they start sticking. I've also taken the valves apart and then scrubbed everything. Works fine for me.
Re: Dump Valve Tight Reply #9 – February 27, 2016, 05:08:26 pm Yahoo Message Number: 159046Thanks everyone for your thoughts! Perfect!I've ordered a new set of 3" valves (after checking...I think one of the links may have gone to a 2" valve.)I plan to lube them first and then replace them if necessary.Is it possible to retract the valve handle, without having the drain hose attached? Meaning, will the cover hold? (not near a dump at the moment) Or, is this not advised?Thanks again.Bob
Re: Dump Valve Tight Reply #10 – February 27, 2016, 05:40:16 pm Yahoo Message Number: 159047In my case, one side of the handle broke off and not where it connects to the shaft. And yes, thread count is the same for metal and plastic.Chris
Re: Dump Valve Tight Reply #11 – February 27, 2016, 07:39:13 pm Yahoo Message Number: 159050Hello Bob. I'm thinking that since the caps are not water/air tight, you might have "seepage." And that might be a problem depending where the "seepage" is going! And ... and ... if you are unable to close the errant valves after you open them, then you really might have a difficult situation. My newbie advice is to wait until you can connect a sewage hose to the outlet.Ed & Margee Fort Worth
Re: Bladex Valve - very tight Reply #12 – February 27, 2016, 07:59:18 pm Yahoo Message Number: 159051Actually silicone lube would be a better choice as it doesn't attack seals or most plastics. In fact I use spray silicone for most iyems around the house and RV.
Re: Dump Valve Tight Reply #13 – February 27, 2016, 08:03:23 pm Yahoo Message Number: 159052I would not advise that..Dumps aren't that hard to find, especially in your area. If your tanks are empty you can place a catch item under the drain and then dispose of it in your choice of places... I have a small blue boy tanks for such work and dump it in my septic.. Garry
Re: Dump Valve Tight Reply #14 – February 27, 2016, 10:20:49 pm Yahoo Message Number: 159053"both the plastic and the aluminum handles have the same number of threads holding the handle on to the shaft. That connection seems to me to be the essential point of any weakness, whether the handle itself is plastic or aluminum."Although the number of engaged threads is the same, a plastic handle has easily-stripped plastic threads, while a metal handle's threads are less likely to be stripped. In addition, as Chris pointed out, I've seen the "T" portion of a plastic dump valve handle break off.I'm in favor of metal handles. (And, of course, periodic cleaning and lubrication.)Andy Baird
Re: Dump Valve Tight Reply #15 – February 27, 2016, 11:09:45 pm Yahoo Message Number: 159055Plastic handles degrade in sunlight, the metal handles do not. Metal handles ca be transfered to new valves.Larry
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