Hot water tank drain plug drip....and happy Thanksgiving to All

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Hot water tank drain plug drip....and happy Thanksgiving to All

November 27, 2014, 08:02:35 am

Yahoo Message Number: 149729

Any advice about how to stop a plastic drain plug from dripping? It's a new plug and the drip was so slow at first I didn't worry about it, but it's speeded up now. I want to stop the drip but not cement the drain plug in place of course. Would something like plumbers thread tape help? Thanks! Bonnie, 2001 MB who has finally made it to Tucson where it's warm enough for a tee shirt.....at least during the day. And, since I made no reservations, I'm happy not to be spending thanksgiving in a Walmart parking lot.

Re: Hot water tank drain plug drip....and happy Thanksgiving to All

Reply #1 – November 27, 2014, 10:12:30 am

Yahoo Message Number: 149730

You could try tightening the plug *very carefully*; overtighten and you risk shearing off the plug head and then having to dig out the remainder of the plastic plug - a tedious, frustrating, and delicate job - from the aluminum thread, possibly damaging the threads so any plug you put back in will leak. (I have real life experience with this process.)

It's also possible that the plug is poorly made and/or a bad fit; I carry a couple of spares of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Atwood-91857-Drain-Plug-Pack/dp/B0007XVWW0

If gently tightening the plug doesn't stop the slow leak and you're OK with removing the plug and draining the water heater anyway, you might want to take the opportunity to thoroughly flush the water heater; it's possible that the heater contains substantial sediment that has built up in the bottom of the heater and/or has "calcified" in the threads, preventing a good plug seal.

This little "flusher" is handy:

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-11691-Water-Heater-Rinser/dp/B002XL2IBS/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1417104097&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=rv+water+heater+flusher

Joan

As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.

Re: Hot water tank drain plug drip....and happy Thanksgiving to All

Reply #2 – November 27, 2014, 10:14:19 am

Yahoo Message Number: 149731

I hope this helps. If one of the long time writers say some contrary to what I write you might want to follow their advice. I just did not want to see your issue get buried in other post.

Are you sure the plug was not cross threaded when it was last put in? Most likely it was not cross threaded but worth checking. See if it unscrews relatively easily. Count the turns as you loosen. If it turns easily hopefully it is not cross threaded. Screw it back the same number of turns and tighten it a quarter turn more if it will go.
NOTE, This is not a job where a bigger wrench or hammer is a good solution.
If the plug seems tight as you loosen take it all the way out and inspect the threads on the plug and the water heater. Make sure they are both clean of any the white deposits that sit in the water heater with time. If the plug's threads are not buggered (a tech term) reinstall it. No need to over tighten. Finger tight and a turn with a wrench to snug up good.

Happy Thanksgiving.
John 07 MidBath

Re: Hot water tank drain plug drip....and happy Thanksgiving to All

Reply #3 – November 27, 2014, 10:39:48 am

Yahoo Message Number: 149733

John offered good advice to check for cross-threading; the cheap plugs (or the CPVC 1/2" plugs made for hot water) also can have nicks in the threads.

Joan

Re: Hot water tank drain plug drip....and happy Thanksgiving to All

Reply #4 – November 27, 2014, 10:48:28 am

Yahoo Message Number: 149734

I just want to make that it really is the drain plug that is leaking, and not the pressure relief valve.

I'd also recommend removing the plug and draining the tank. One of those tank flushers can really get a LOT of mineral deposits out. Carefully inspect the threads in the tank and the threads on the plug for any damage. If both look ok, I put a couple of wraps of plumbers teflon tape on the plug, being careful that there are no loose ends inside the tank. You want to tighten just until it firms up. Those nylon plugs are pretty soft and should seal without much force.

Art

Re: Hot water tank drain plug drip....and happy Thanksgiving to All

Reply #5 – November 27, 2014, 11:26:17 am

Yahoo Message Number: 149735

Carry an extra plug, they do cross thread easily.
Art's suggestion to use Teflon tape is a good one.
When give the choice, I prefer Teflon pipe sealant. If fills the threads better and will not flake or break off, possibly plugging a faucet http://t.homedepot.com/p/Rectorseal-T-Plus-2-4-oz-Teflon-Pipe-Thread-Sealant-23631/100201204/

Have a great Thanksgiving everyone, it's a beautiful day on California' Central Coast.

Larry

Re: Hot water tank drain plug drip....and happy Thanksgiving to All

Reply #6 – November 27, 2014, 04:00:34 pm

Yahoo Message Number: 149737

I use plumber's tape and have no leaks.

chris

Re: Hot water tank drain plug drip....and happy Thanksgiving to All

Reply #7 – November 27, 2014, 04:08:05 pm

Yahoo Message Number: 149739

I did a double take at the name of that company, Larry.

Chris

Re: Hot water tank drain plug drip....and happy Thanksgiving to All

Reply #8 – November 28, 2014, 01:36:16 am

Yahoo Message Number: 149740

The first thing to do is take the plug and through it in the TRASH.
Now get a brass straight boiler drain with the handle on the end. You may have to modified the handle a little.
Use Teflon tape and a little pipe dope over the tape. Put 3 raps of tape on the threads. Do not use more than 3 raps of tape.

George

Retired plumber

Re: Hot water tank drain plug drip....and happy Thanksgiving to All

Reply #9 – November 28, 2014, 09:46:32 am

Yahoo Message Number: 149742

This is how a plumber would take care of the problem.
I replaced the plug with a valve. Now I can drain the tank every time I get home and not have to screw with the plug. No wore about striping the threads any more. And I can flush the tank with pressure when ever I wish.
I did have to cut the threads off the outlet side of the valve but I do not need to put a hose on the valve to drain.
It is only the 4th camper that that I owned that I did it to. I just took these pic and added them to the 2005 LD album.

All home HW tanks come with one so now my MH has one.
2005 LD Motor Home

George

Retired Plumber

Re: Hot water tank drain plug drip....and happy Thanksgiving to All

Reply #10 – November 28, 2014, 10:02:41 am

Yahoo Message Number: 149743

Bonnie, in this case I disagree with George's advice. George is a plumber, and there is little to no chance that he will cross thread or over-tighten a fixture. For someone with his expertise, his advice is right on target. For the rest of us, with less experience with these things, you have gotten a number of good suggestions. I will line them up, step by step, as to what I would suggest.

1) Remove the plug and check the threads carefully.
2) Flush the hot water heater.
3) If the plug was cross threaded, you should be able to see it. Replace the plug.
4) If the plug looks ok, re-use it.
5) Apply 3 or more turns of teflon plumbers tape. Run it in finger tight. Then, using a socket or a wrench, begin tightening. I use a nylon plug. With the nylon plug, I can feel a distinct difference when the plug changes from the "finger tight" level of resistance to a more snug fit. I do 1/4 turn after that, then re-pressurize the system and use a white paper towel to look for leaks. If I have any, I will do another 1/4 turn.
6) If you re-used the plug and it still leaks, replace the plug.

Why do I say not to use a brass plug? If you cross thread the plug, you could damage the threads on the heater. That means a BIG bill. If you over-tighten, same answer. A nylon plug is much more forgiving of mistakes by us laymen. With a nylon plug, if you cross thread or over-tighten, the only thing damaged is the plug itself. It might take some time and effort to clean the threads on the heater, but the threads will be intact.
If your skills are such that you are sure you will not cross thread or over-tighten, then do what George said. To George, if I got this wrong, please weigh in again with more info. Your expertise is valuable, and I wish we all had it.

Ken F in NM

Re: Hot water tank drain plug drip....and happy Thanksgiving to All

Reply #11 – November 28, 2014, 10:26:52 am

Yahoo Message Number: 149744

Why do I say not to use a brass plug? If you cross thread the plug, you could damage the threads on the heater

--- There's also the issue of "dissimilar metals corrosion" to consider when using a brass drain plug in an aluminum-clad water heater; Atwood RV water heaters are aluminum-clad. Using a brass plug will accelerate corrosion and "shedding" leading to increased sediment build-up in the water heater, and corrosion may also lead to the plug "sealing" to the threads to the point where it's impossible to remove with damage to the heater.

As ever, YMMV.

Joan

Re: Hot water tank drain plug drip....and happy Thanksgiving to All

Reply #12 – November 28, 2014, 11:10:06 am

Yahoo Message Number: 149745

Do you think there may a good reason why Atwood used a nylon plug, instead of a brass one?

The worse damage you can do with the nylon plug is to cross thread the plug, a cheap piece to replace .
A cross threaded hot water tank may need replacement, if the soft aluminum threads are damaged badly.
Always carry an extra plastic plug.

Larry

Re: Hot water tank drain plug drip....and happy Thanksgiving to All

Reply #13 – November 28, 2014, 11:33:34 am

Yahoo Message Number: 149746

Thanks for the drain plug advice! Can I also get advice about the flimsy foam insulating tape that runs around the coach door opening, on the coach side. This stuff is literally disintegrating but I figure I can clean it off and replace it if I know what to replace it with.

In appreciation, Bonnie

Re: Hot water tank drain plug drip....and happy Thanksgiving to All

Reply #14 – November 28, 2014, 11:53:19 am

Yahoo Message Number: 149747

Can I also get advice about the flimsy foam insulating tape that runs around the coach door opening, on the coach side. This stuff is literally disintegrating but I figure I can clean it off and replace it if I know what to replace it with.
---
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-E-O-3-4-in-x-5-16-in-x-10-ft-Black-Rubber-Foam-Weatherstrip-Tape-R534H/202262324?keyword=frost+king+R534H

The local (to me) HDs, Lowe's, Ace, etc., don't carry this in the stores; I ordered two rolls from Home Depot online and picked it up at the store.

Cleaning off the old tape is a PITA, primarily because the cheap foam crumbles into dust and leaves the tape backing stuck to the door frame; I used a (dull) razor scraper and solvent (and a lot of time) to remove the old residue. The 3/4" tape is a tiny bit wide - 5/8" isn't available - but it works with careful placement; no do-overs.

Joan

Re: Hot water tank drain plug drip....and happy Thanksgiving to All

Reply #15 – November 28, 2014, 11:58:54 am

Yahoo Message Number: 149748

Do you think there may a good reason why Atwood used a nylon plug, instead of a brass one?

The worse damage you can do with the nylon plug is to cross thread the plug, a cheap piece to replace .
A cross threaded hot water tank may need replacement, if the soft aluminum threads are damaged badly.
Always carry an extra plastic plug.

Larry

Yes Larry.
COST They can get the plug for less than 5 cents the valve would cost them $2 or more.
Several years ago all HW tanks in the home came with a brass drain valve now they come with a plastic valve.
Cost. The plastic valve is cheaper.

We are changing our lighting systems over to LED. LD could have put them in at the start. I changed my MH over to LED for about $100. IT WAS ALL ABOUT COST TO LD

Re: Hot water tank drain plug drip....and happy Thanksgiving to All

Reply #16 – November 28, 2014, 12:13:19 pm

Yahoo Message Number: 149749

Why do I say not to use a brass plug? If you cross thread the plug, you could damage the threads on the heater

--- There's also the issue of "dissimilar metals corrosion" to consider when using a brass drain plug in an aluminum-clad water heater; Atwood RV water heaters are aluminum-clad. Using a brass plug will accelerate corrosion and "shedding" leading to increased sediment build-up in the water heater, and corrosion may also lead to the plug "sealing" to the threads to the point where it's impossible to remove with damage to the heater.

As ever, YMMV.

Joan

Joan look at the temperature pressure (TP) valve that is in the tank. If it goes bad and you replace it are you going to strip and threads puting in a new one?

"O" and Joan THAT TP VALVE IS MADE OF BRASS ALSO

Re: Hot water tank drain plug drip....and happy Thanksgiving to All

Reply #17 – November 28, 2014, 12:57:03 pm

Yahoo Message Number: 149750

Thanks for the "clarification". ;-) Yes, the pressure relief valve is brass; I don't believe that a nylon or plastic valve would be workable, brass is cheaper than stainless steel, and, AFAIK, brass pressure relief valves are the only game in town. Sometimes we don't have choices, and sometimes we do!

As always, YMMV.

Joan

Re: Hot water tank drain plug drip....and happy Thanksgiving to All

Reply #18 – November 28, 2014, 07:48:15 pm

Yahoo Message Number: 149751

If owners are really concerned about the tank rusting out here is another way to prolong the life of the tank.
And it has a drain valve built in. Cost $20 at Camping World.

If you think you will strip the tapping have CW do the install.
As for me I will continue to use my brass valve and drain the tank when it is not in use.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/anode-rod-with-drain-for-atwood-water-heaters-4-1-2-/37395

George

Retired Plumber.

Re: Hot water tank drain plug drip....and happy Thanksgiving to All

Reply #19 – November 29, 2014, 02:34:40 am

Yahoo Message Number: 149752

"COST They can get the plug for less than 5 cents the valve would cost them $2 or more. "

George

Since Atwood doesn't publicly discuss their engineering decisions, that' your guess.

Here is the logic behind my 'guess'why plastic should be used.
You are right about plastic being cheaper but it also prevents accidental damage during simple, routine maintenance.
Over the last 15 years, I have shown dozens of LD owners how to clean and flush the sediment out of their water heaters. Just about everyone of them has had difficulties getting the plug started, due to the awkward, restricted position of the plug.
A plastic plug has no chance of causing damage to the soft aluminum threads, in the tank.
Brass is hard enough to to badly damage the aluminum threads, if cross threaded, and, in the hands of non-professionals, is easy to do. Maybe you or I may not have problems with cross threading but believe me, many do.

I recommend using the plastic plugs since they cannot damage anything, if cross threaded, where brass will. Replacement plastic plugs a less than a buck at any home center.

I also see little use for a brass drain valve since it would need to be removed to clean the tank if using a water heater tank cleaning tool. The tool requires the full diameter of the threaded drain hole to use properly.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/water-heater-tank-rinser/49070 If you have never used one of these tools on your water heater, it will amaze you how much fluffy, calcium 'snow' it will flush out. A tool every RVer should own.
If you are flushing the tank without cleaning it, you are wasting your time, IMO

Larry

Re: Hot water tank drain plug drip....and happy Thanksgiving to All

Reply #20 – November 29, 2014, 10:59:44 am

Yahoo Message Number: 149755

Carry an extra plug, they do cross thread easily.
Art's suggestion to use Teflon tape is a good one.
When give the choice, I prefer Teflon pipe sealant. If fills the threads better and will not flake or break off, possibly plugging a faucet http://t.homedepot.com/p/Rectorseal-T-Plus-2-4-oz-Teflon-Pipe-Thread-Sealant-23631/100201204/

When you are concerned about the Teflon getting into the water and plugin the strainer do not put the tape on the first thread keep it back ONE thread. And never let the tape extend in front of the threads When you start the pipe into the fitting it cuts the tap off and this is why you have tape getting free and into the water and then into the faucet.
It is best to use both the tape and the liquid teflon pipe thread sealant. Put NO more than 3 wraps of the tape on and then a thin coat of the liquid sealant. They make up much easier. An far less likely to leak. The liquid will stop and tape from braking down and pealing off.
I always use both at the same time, Tape first then liquid over the tape.

George

Retires Plumber

Re: Hot water tank drain plug drip....and happy Thanksgiving to All

Reply #21 – November 29, 2014, 01:50:01 pm

Yahoo Message Number: 149758

Camping World sells a lot of things. That doesn't mean all of them are wise purchases. Atwood specifically recommends against using an anode rod with their water heaters. That's enough for me.

As for brass plugs, any boater can tell you about the destruction wrought by "galvanic corrosion" when dissimilar metals are in contact. Yes, the pressure-relief valve is brass, but its business end--the probe--is epoxy-coated to minimize the galvanic effect. (In some valves, the threads are also epoxy-coated.)

Andy Baird

Travels with Andy

Re: Hot water tank drain plug drip....and happy Thanksgiving to All

Reply #22 – December 02, 2014, 12:33:49 am

Yahoo Message Number: 149784

Why do I say not to use a brass plug? If you cross thread the plug, you could damage the threads on the heater. That means a BIG bill. If you over-tighten, same answer. A nylon plug is much more forgiving of mistakes by us laymen. With a nylon plug, if you cross thread or over-tighten, the only thing damaged is the plug itself. It might take some time and effort to clean the threads on the heater, but the threads will be intact.
If your skills are such that you are sure you will not cross thread or over-tighten, then do what George said. To George, if I got this wrong, please weigh in again with more info. Your expertise is valuable, and I wish we all had it.

Ken F in NM

Ken; Joan heard or read some thing about electrolysis and thinks that having one brass plug in the tank and tomorrow the HWT will have cancer and the next day the tank will be a goner. The hot water tank in your home last 10 to 15+ years before you have a problem. When I buy a tank for the house it is one with a 10 or 12 year warranty. If the tank fails they give me a NEW tank FREE. These tanks are steal and have dissimilar metal pipes in them. Yes nearly all of these tanks fail from dissimilar metal corrosion sooner or later and they have water in them for all that time. Water and time is the problem.

Joan forgot about the TP valve being brass the same as the plug (valve). How about the 2 valves on the other side which we all install to winterize the MH plumbing system. Now we have 3 brass fitting and my valve makes 4.

Very few owners use there camper 30 days in the year and most never use them 60 days. But how many drain the tank from the time they get it out in the spring and put it to bed in the fall. If I had to remove that plastic plug each time neither would I drain the tank. But opening the drain valve takes but a few seconds. Problem solved. NO WATER IN TANK.

This is why I use a drain valve. The big problem is that it is hard to install a plastic valve; just no room. I drain the tank when I get back home after every trip. You see for electrolysis you need 2 dissimilar metals and moisture (WATER). Water is the BIG problem. By draining the tank I no longer have water to cause DISSIMILAR METAL CORROSION. It does not stop it in full but it sure puts it in remission.

George

Retired Plumber

Re: Hot water tank drain plug drip....and happy Thanksgiving to All

Reply #23 – December 02, 2014, 07:46:45 am

Yahoo Message Number: 149786

Joan heard or read some thing about electrolysis and thinks that having one brass plug in the tank and tomorrow the HWT will have cancer and the next day the tank will be a goner.

--- How this nonsensical statement could be concluded from anything I posted is a "reach" beyond absurd.

Joan

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