Transfer switch? April 19, 2014, 01:09:08 pm Yahoo Message Number: 145833Hi, I loaned my 2005 26.5 MB to some friends to drive from Arizona to Atlanta. When they tried to use the generator while camped in a Wal-Mart parking lot, they got no power to the electrical outlets, although the generator was running fine. When they arrived and could plug in, all was well. When they returned, I took The Ark to a generator repair shop, where it immediately began working perfectly as soon as the repair guy turned on the generator. Figures. So, we went camping a few weeks later, plugged in, had electricity for about an hour, then suddenly none. But, it worked fine off the generator! So, I took the rig in to the RV repair place, where they said everything worked fine off both the generator and the shore power, and they couldn't find anything wrong. Argh! They wanted me to pick it up and bring it home, but I demanded that they replace the transfer switch, even though they said it looked fine. I should have it back next week. Any thoughts? Did I do the right thing making them replace that switch?Thanks, Karen Tucson, AZ
Re: Transfer switch? Reply #1 – April 19, 2014, 02:56:18 pm Yahoo Message Number: 145835I should have added that I did try flipping the circuit breaker switch on the generator (over and over) to no avail. Karen
Re: Transfer switch? Reply #2 – April 20, 2014, 11:42:04 am Yahoo Message Number: 145838Karen, you might be on the right track, but to know for sure, you would have to run some tests while it is in failure mode. I would first pull the power panel and open the ATS. I would then make sure there is no power connected, from either shore or generator, and I would check all the connections for proper torque and close the ATS. Then, when/if a failure later happened, I would pull the power panel, open the ATS and using my multimeter with great care, check the incoming voltages and the output voltage. If there is power coming in from either shore or the generator, and no power going out, the ATS is bad. If, at the time of failure, there is no power coming in, the ATS is fine, and I would be at a loss to identify the problem. If, at time of failure, there is power going in and out of the ATS, the problem is in the power panel, and could be a bad breaker, loose connections, or something like that.Good luck.Ken F back home in OR
Re: Transfer switch? Reply #3 – April 20, 2014, 12:09:01 pm Yahoo Message Number: 145839I had to replace the transfer switch in my '06 (probably same as yours), because it went flaky within the first year. The switch would attempt to transfer to generator when I turned any kind of inductive load, like a vacuum sweeper, or even a soldering gun, of course without the generator actually running. Since the maker, Parallax Power is just up the road from me, I went in and asked them about it. Not admitting they ever had heard about the problem before, they gave me a newer model solid state version of the transfer switch. I replaced it myself (skinned knuckles, no extra charge), It has been perfect ever since.Our symptoms are different, but a bad transfer switch could cause your problem too.-Dave '06 MB, Indianapolis
Vibration/Rattle in Mirror Reply #4 – April 20, 2014, 12:16:45 pm Yahoo Message Number: 145841Hi, We have had for some time a vibration/rattle from the passenger-side mirror in our 2001 RB. I have tightened the allen-screw at the end of the mirror arm to no avail. When I remove the mirror head and drive the LD with no weight on the arm, there is no noise, so it appears to be in the arm or door mount. I have put zip-ties in the crack between the arm and the mount on the body where the mirror folds back to try to tighten it up, but it does not seem to help. The head has been replaced (because of another problem), but it did not affect the noise. It appears that the problem is probably in the mounting of the mirror to the door. Has anyone opened up the plastic dover on inside of the door door to see how the mount is attached to the door? If so, is it just brute force to remove this black plastic cover? I tried to open it, but was afraid of breaking the plastic piece if I used too much force to pry it off. Does anyone know how to safely remove this cover?Any other suggestions?Thanks.Barry
Re: Vibration/Rattle in Mirror Reply #5 – April 20, 2014, 02:05:56 pm Yahoo Message Number: 145842"It appears that the problem is probably in the mounting of the mirror to the door. Has anyone opened up the plastic dover on inside of the door door to see how the mount is attached to the door?"BarryThe mirrors are secured with 4 bolts, accessed from the interior. Three of the bolts are under the black cover, at the front of the roll up window. Grab on to the black cover and pull firmly, it is held by a couple of spring clips. The last bolt is accessed by removing the door panel. Some doors allow accessto the last bolt with a combination wrench.Larry
Re: Vibration/Rattle in Mirror Reply #6 – April 20, 2014, 06:07:37 pm Yahoo Message Number: 145843Thanks Larry. I'll give it a try & report back. First I have to get the 100k spark plug replacement next Tuesday. After all of the scare stories about plug problems on the V10, I have elected to have the local Ford dealer do the job. He has assured me that while they know about the problems with the plugs & the V10, they have never had any problems with any of their replacements.BarryFrom: Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2014 1:05 PM To:lifewithalazydazerv@yahoogroups.com Subject: [LD] Re: Vibration/Rattle in Mirror"It appears that the problem is probably in the mounting of the mirror to the door. Has anyone opened up the plastic dover on inside of the door door to see how the mount is attached to the door?"BarryThe mirrors are secured with 4 bolts, accessed from the interior. Three of the bolts are under the black cover, at the front of the roll up window. Grab on to the black cover and pull firmly, it is held by a couple of spring clips. The last bolt is accessed by removing the door panel. Some doors allow accessto the last bolt with a combination wrench.Larry
Re: Vibration/Rattle in Mirror Reply #7 – April 20, 2014, 06:24:31 pm Yahoo Message Number: 145844Thanks again Larry. Your directions are good, and I was able to remove the plastic cover. On my 2001 model I could only see 2 bolts, the others must be covered by the door panel. I was able to tighten the two bolts I could see quite a bit, so I will wait & see if that solves the problem before I remove the door panel.BarryFrom: Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2014 1:05 PM To:lifewithalazydazerv@yahoogroups.com Subject: [LD] Re: Vibration/Rattle in MirrorThe mirrors are secured with 4 bolts, accessed from the interior. Three of the bolts are under the black cover, at the front of the roll up window. Grab on to the black cover and pull firmly, it is held by a couple of spring clips. The last bolt is accessed by removing the door panel. Some doors allow accessto the last bolt with a combination wrench.
Re: Transfer switch? Reply #8 – April 24, 2014, 11:38:51 am Yahoo Message Number: 145917Thanks to everyone for the replies on the transfer switch. I don't have the know-how to check it myself, but it sounds like others have had the same kind of problem, so I'm glad I made the shop replace the thing. I'm still waiting for them to get it back to me.Karen
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Topic: Transfer switch? (Read 12 times)
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