2010 and newer 27RB questions August 25, 2013, 01:26:12 am Yahoo Message Number: 142195On the newer 27 RB, has anyone done a 4 wheel weight road ready w full fresh water and propane? Just wondering if it is well balanced side to side for weight on each of the axles, and where the CCC is front/rear. Also wondering about the size of the closet/drawer cabinet in the bath - any measurements? Anyone incorporated electric to the hot water heater? Any other incite on the RB model?Thanks for any answers,
Re: 2010 and newer 27RB questions Reply #1 – August 25, 2013, 10:40:59 am Yahoo Message Number: 142199There are after market electric heat elements that screw into and replace the drain plug but I prefer to put an after market sacrificial anode in that bung hole. it is design to corrode instead of your aluminum tank to make your tank lasts longer. If you are really handy pull the tank and get another bung welded in to accommodate both an anode and electric heat element. I drilled a hole in mine and purchased an an aluminum threaded bung from an industrial distributor that I had weld on. Get the bung first as some have a shoulder that will fit into a hole so you drill out to the correct size first to fit it. A half round file is handy here as I did not have a drill with a large enough chuck to fit a drill bit that big. Also the painted metal face plate will need to be drilled for the bung to go through and that means removing all the crap attached to the tank to get it off. I drilled through the face plate and tank at the same time but you need to get them apart for welding and to open the face plate hole bigger to fit it over the bung. I will inquire about other alternatives for you today.Best regards,Andrew
Re: 2010 and newer 27RB questions Reply #2 – August 25, 2013, 10:48:20 am Yahoo Message Number: 142200Here is a link for the electric conversion kit. http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-water-heaters/hott-rod-water-heater.htmBest regards,Andrew
Re: water heaters and anode rods Reply #3 – August 25, 2013, 01:26:44 pm Yahoo Message Number: 142201"I prefer to put an after market sacrificial anode in that bung hole." Suburban water heaters have steel tanks, so they need a sacrificial anode to retard corrosion. But Atwood water heaters--the kind used in all Lazy Dazes--have aluminum tanks and don't need this accessory. In fact, Atwood recommends against the use of anodes, as they are not just unnecessary, but are apt to "freeze" in place, making for a very awkward situation. They say that only a nylon drain plug should be used with one of their water heaters. Similarly, installing a "Hott Rod" type electric heating element in an Atwood water heater is not recommended, because galvanic corrosion over time can freeze it in place, making it impossible to drain the tank. Here's a comment from someone who did this: "I added the hott rod to my atwood water heater about two months ago. When I drained the tank last week the rod was completly covered with deposits, about a 1/4" thick. I could see the deposits building up to where it might be hard to remove." Atwood does make a 6-gallon water heater with a built-in 120 VAC heating element, but it is specifically designed not to cause corrosion--it's an integral part of the tank, not an add-on drain-plug substitute. I've read that Atwood will void your warranty if you add a Hott Rod or similar third-party heating element. At the very least, you should call them and ask before attempting this modification. If you really want electrically heated water, the only safe way to get it is to have your existing heater swapped out for a designed-for-electricity model. Yes, I know that's a lot more costly than plugging in a Hott Rod, but it's the only method that's guaranteed not to damage your water heater. Before you spend the money, though, stop and ask yourself how much propane you're really going to save with an electrically heated unit. To begin with, of course, it's not very useful unless you're plugged in. A boondocker won't get much benefit from an electric water heater, unless you're willing to run the generator to power it--very inefficient. And then there's your usage pattern. For example, if you're a solo traveler like me, the amount of propane needed to heat water is negligible. I run my water heater for a maximum of twenty minutes a day--just enough to get the water up to comfortable showering temperature. (See http://www.andybaird.com/Eureka/pages/showering.htm>.) That doesn't use enough propane to be noticed even on my SeeLevel II gauge, which can see changes of 1%. On the other hand, if you have a large family that takes lots of showers *and* you normally stay in campgrounds with electric hookups, then an electric water heater might make economic sense. But think about it before you make the cash outlay... and don't assume that a $30 Hott Rod will serve as a cheap solution. Again, talk with Atwood before deciding--they are the authority on this.Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Re: water heaters and anode rods Reply #4 – August 25, 2013, 01:54:27 pm Yahoo Message Number: 142202Great info on tanks. Aluminum will corrode over time though. I used an anode and wrapped Teflon tape around the threads to prevent seizing and inspect it yearly.Best regards,Andrew
Re: water heaters and anode rods Reply #5 – August 25, 2013, 03:06:44 pm Yahoo Message Number: 142203"Aluminum will corrode over time though. I used an anode and wrapped Teflon tape around the threads to prevent seizing and inspect it yearly." Teflon tape is a good idea even with a nylon plug. But about the anode: most of them are made of aluminum. Putting an aluminum rod into an aluminum tank won't accomplish anything, because it won't act as an anode in that scenario. The metals have to be different. A magnesium anode (less common and more expensive) *might* help, but I'm not enough of a chemist to know for sure. Bottom line: I figure Atwood knows best.Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Re: water heaters and anode rods Reply #6 – August 25, 2013, 05:38:24 pm Yahoo Message Number: 142205QuoteTeflon tape is a good idea even with a nylon plug. Anodes used prevent corrosion rely on an ELECTRICAL connection between the thing to be protected (i.e., the tank)and the lighter metal anode rod. The tank and the physically connected anode are two elements of a battery with the water acting as an (very weak) electrolyte. For this to work the anode must be of a metal lighter (i.e. lower atomic number) than the metal to be protected. The anode's metal dissolves off into the water as the current flows between the tank and the anode, protecting the tank from electrolytic corrosion. (If the anode's metal is heavier than the tank, it corrodes the tank instead of the anode.) Thus, if the anode rod is insulated from the tank, it won't work as intended. Above and beyond the recommendation from the Atwood NOT to use an anode rod, my hot water tank seems to have a non-conductive insert in the drain hole which would make the rod useless even if installed without the Teflon tape.Linley
Re: water heaters and anode rods Reply #7 – August 25, 2013, 06:17:26 pm Yahoo Message Number: 142206"if the anode rod is insulated from the tank [e.g., by Teflon tape], it won't work as intended." Thanks for pointing that out, Linley! I knew it somewhere in the back of my head... but what was in the front of my head was "Always use Teflon tape on threaded pipe connections to prevent sticking and leakage." But of course Teflon is an insulator, so that would make an anode useless... assuming an anode was needed with an aluminum (Atwood) tank, which it isn't. Whew! I think we've got it all straight now: with our Lazy Dazes' water heaters, there should be no anodes and no add-on electric heaters. :-)Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Re: water heaters and anode rods Reply #8 – August 25, 2013, 06:17:42 pm Yahoo Message Number: 142207"if the anode rod is insulated from the tank [e.g., by Teflon tape], it won't work as intended." Thanks for pointing that out, Linley! I knew it somewhere in the back of my head... but what was in the front of my head was "Always use Teflon tape on threaded pipe connections to prevent sticking and leakage." But of course Teflon is an insulator, so that would make an anode useless... assuming an anode was needed with an aluminum (Atwood) tank, which it isn't. Whew! I think we've got it all straight now: with our Lazy Dazes' water heaters, there should be no anodes and no add-on electric heaters. :-)Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Re: water heaters and anode rods Reply #9 – August 25, 2013, 06:17:43 pm Yahoo Message Number: 142208"if the anode rod is insulated from the tank [e.g., by Teflon tape], it won't work as intended." Thanks for pointing that out, Linley! I knew it somewhere in the back of my head... but what was in the front of my head was "Always use Teflon tape on threaded pipe connections to prevent sticking and leakage." But of course Teflon is an insulator, so that would make an anode useless... assuming an anode was needed with an aluminum (Atwood) tank, which it isn't. Whew! I think we've got it all straight now: with our Lazy Dazes' water heaters, there should be no anodes and no add-on electric heaters. :-)Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Atwood water heater Reply #10 – August 25, 2013, 08:21:04 pm Yahoo Message Number: 142209While on the topic of Atwood water heaters, ours (electronic ignition installed
Re: water heaters and anode rods Reply #11 – August 25, 2013, 08:31:58 pm Yahoo Message Number: 142211Sorry I did not mention I have a gator clip attached to a grounding wire that I clip on to the outer part after it is installed. Over kill but I'm funny that way.Best regards,Andrew
Re: water heaters and anode rods Reply #12 – August 25, 2013, 08:40:22 pm Yahoo Message Number: 142212I do remain steadfast that how ever over a much longer time aluminum will corrode. The local welding shop here will not repair one that is leaking unless it is the direct result of a winter freeze splitting the tank. Other wise the tank just leaks around the welded repair.Best regards,Andrew
Re: water heaters and anode rods Reply #13 – August 25, 2013, 08:45:41 pm Yahoo Message Number: 142213This is an example of a tank rotted out.Best regards,Andrew
Re: water heaters and anode rods Reply #14 – August 25, 2013, 08:52:53 pm Yahoo Message Number: 142214Now there is some thing, I should check to see exactly what mine is made of.Best regards,Andrew
Re: water heaters and anode rods Reply #15 – August 25, 2013, 08:53:02 pm Yahoo Message Number: 142215I had some trouble attaching a photo but googling it will show what it looks like.Best regards,Andrew
Re: water heaters and anode rods Reply #16 – August 25, 2013, 09:01:27 pm Yahoo Message Number: 142216"I do remain steadfast that how ever over a much longer time aluminum will corrode." No argument about that; it's just that an aluminum anode won't do anything to stop it."I should check to see exactly what mine is made of." It's easy to tell: if it's made by Suburban, then it has a steel tank and you do need a sacrificial anode. If it's made by Atwood (true of all Lazy Dazes), then it has an aluminum tank."This is an example of a tank rotted out." 'Fraid this group doesn't have the ability to attach photos to messages. Sorry about that. You can, however, upload a photo to our website's Photos section.Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Re: water heaters and anode rods Reply #17 – August 25, 2013, 09:02:59 pm Yahoo Message Number: 142217Mine was made with magnesium. It is a good point to check this. Thanks for the info.Best regards,Andrew
Re: water heaters and anode rods Reply #18 – August 25, 2013, 10:18:39 pm Yahoo Message Number: 142222"Mine was made with magnesium." Good! Since magnesium has a lower atomic number than aluminum (12 vs. 13), at least it will do no harm, and might do some good.Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Re: water heaters and anode rods Reply #19 – August 25, 2013, 11:59:49 pm Yahoo Message Number: 142223I'm not aware of reports on this group that corroding Atwood water heaters is a concern. My Atwood heater is 15 years old and has never leaked. Is that an usually long time for a water heater to last? Is city water really corrosive enough to worry about with an aluminum tank?Eric GreenwellA. M. wrote, On 8/25/2013 10:54 AM:
Re: water heaters and anode rods Reply #20 – August 26, 2013, 12:01:35 am Yahoo Message Number: 142224No don t worry about it. I'm eccentric and over build every thing.Best regards,Andrew
Topic: 2010 and newer 27RB questions (Read 21 times)
previous topic - next topic
Topic: 2010 and newer 27RB questions (Read 21 times)
previous topic - next topic