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weep holes, hatch issue
Yahoo Message Number: 135265
I've been having issue with the window by my head in the over cab bed. Normally, I leave it open when I'm sleeping, except when its raining. But in recent weeks, I've noticed my pillows end up next to the window and are getting wet.  No wetness on glass at all.  Cleaned the weep holes, and found a little pool of water sitting right under the point in which both window and screen meet in the center. Is there a weep hole under that? How do I reach it?  Do I need to take both window and screen out to really see or is there another issue going on?

Or as a friend said - just quit breathing! ;-)
 I've had discussion with others on how to eliminate the hatch from dripping - so far, the only thing I haven't done/tried, which Ken F. suggested, is put a big chunk of foam up there and wedge it in. Which I will be doing soon. But it got me to thinking... since the hatch is no longer being added on new rigs, can I replace the hatch with a Fantastic fan/vent?  That would help all issues plus give the MB a much better option to cool off in hot weather.

Melinda 2011 27' MB
2011 Mid Bath

Re: weep holes, hatch issue
Reply #1
Yahoo Message Number: 135266
"...since the hatch is no longer being added on new rigs, can I replace the hatch with a Fantastic fan/vent?"

Melinda

Quote
2011 27' MB
Melinda
 The Fantastic Fan (and others like it) are designed to fit a 14" X 14" opening! If your hatch has those measurements it shouldn't be too difficult to install a fan in that location. If the hatch is, as I believe it to be, quite a bit larger, then it's probably not feasable.

Steve S.
Lazy Bones & Jiggs
Steve S.
Lazy Bones & Cedar
2004 30'IB (Island Bed)
Yesterday is History, Tomorrow is a Mystery
Live for the day!

Re: weep holes, hatch issue
Reply #2
Yahoo Message Number: 135267
At a guess, Melinda, you're seeing condensation from the aluminum window frame due to colder weather. The frame conducts heat much better than the window itself, so condensation will happen there before it happens on the glass.
 Solution: in wintertime, close the window and cover it with a fitted insulator that overlaps the edges of the frame (not just a piece of insulation stuffed inside the window.) The factory used to sell these insulators, but I understand they no longer do. Wouldn't be hard to make your own, though, and mount it with big snaps, the way the factory's window covers were mounted.
 "since the hatch is no longer being added on new rigs, can I replace the hatch with a Fantastic fan/vent?"
 As others have pointed out, the Fan-Tastic fans are designed to fit a 14" x 14" vent, so you'd have to do a lot of blocking around the sides to make one fit the much larger escape hatch opening.
 But even if you could do it, would you really want to block your only escape route from the overcab bed? If a fire starts while you're sleeping up there, you probably won't be able to fight your way through the flames to the entry door. That hatch could be your only way out. I think it was a serious mistake for the factory to omit that escape hatch on newer models, and I personally would not dream of disabling or encumbering mine.
 I do agree that the midbath needs a Fan-Tastic fan up front, though. I had Larry Wade install one for me, right about where the ceiling handle used to be (I moved that over)... and I love it! It's not for the faint of heart, though, since it involves cutting a 14" x 14" opening in the roof.

Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"

Re: weep holes, hatch issue
Reply #3
Yahoo Message Number: 135288
Tue Nov 20, 2012 2:30 pm (PST) . Posted by:

"Andy Baird" andybaird2000
 "since the hatch is no longer being added on new rigs, can I replace the hatch with a Fantastic fan/vent?"
 But even if you could do it, would you really want to block your only escape route from the overcab bed? If a fire starts while you're sleeping up there, you probably won't be able to fight your way through the flames to the entry door. That hatch could be your only way out. I think it was a serious mistake for the factory to omit that escape hatch on newer models, and I personally would not dream of disabling or encumbering mine.

Andy Baird

Stuff snipped . . .

Andy,

Consider for a moment . . . if eliminating the forward escape hatch increased the likelihood of injury or worse during a fire, would the factory be incurring a huge liability in removing such a "safety item"? I think it's not a viable safety item for several reasons, and in all probability has never effectively been used in an actual fire (note this is a WAG, and I have no supporting evidence). However, that will not prevent me from using what I think should pass for "logic" in besmirching the idea of that escape hatch . . .
 It would be a useful exercise for those having and planning to use the escape hatch in an emergency, to don a blindfold (you likely won't be able to see during a real fire) and time how long it takes you to exit to the roof vs. how long it takes to get to the floor and exit via the door. This may be an eye opener for all but the fit and spry youngsters among us.
 During a fire, heat and smoke rises and the only semi-breathable air will most likely be at floor level. Going through that hatch, while having one's butt roasted, at first blush does not seem a good thing. And at second blush seems a much worse idea if you consider what will probably happen as soon as the hatch is opened. The dynamics of what was probably an enclosed air starved and smoldering fire will dramatically change with the newly provided chimney of the open hatch drawing smoke and fire right through your planned exit path. It *could* be much worse, as the super heated air and unburned fuel (smoke) may burn vigorously as it exits the now opened vent and hits the oxygenated air outside. Anyone planning on using such an escape path is way braver than me.
 In most fire situations, the safer plan will be to get down to the floor under the worst of the smoke and heat and crawl the very familiar path to the side exit door or cab doors- - that depending on one's perception of the path of least fire. Even blinded by the smoke, you should be easily able to find your way.
 And finally, consider what happens next if someone does successfully escape to the roof, toasted buns and all. They will be up high, blinded by smoke, hacking and choking, and now faced with traversing what may be a fire weakened roof to get to the ladder - all by feel, probably in the dark . . . or they could jump. Or if they've planned in advance, they might have wits about them to use a pre-installed safety rope to clamber down whilst still choking from the smoke. Is this really a good workable plan for most of us?
 The overhead escape hatch, save for providing another path to the roof for maintenance, has been a deeply flawed and mostly unworkable idea IMO.

bumper
"Yonder"
Minden, NV
bumper
"Yonder" '05 MB
"WLDBLU" glider trailer

Re: weep holes, hatch issue
Reply #4
Yahoo Message Number: 135292
Bumper, I largely agree with your comments, assuming a fire someplace to the rear of the door.  BUT... Between the overhead and the exit door is the stove and oven on my MB.  In the event of a propane-based fire, a jet of flame could be emerging into the only path from the overhead bunk to the door.  Opening the hatch is one finger pull.
 I think Andy's point, which I agree with, is that the hatch offers one more option.  Would I pay extra to have a hatch installed?  No.  Would I remove or otherwise disable one that existed?  No.  If the possibility of a floor exit exists, that would be my first choice but I can't be sure that option will always exist.
 In a similar vein, the right rear window on my rig is designated as an emergency escape route.  The time and agility required to open that window and screen, then climb from the couch, out the window and SOMEHOW get from there to the ground without causing some injury to myself makes the usefulness of this route pretty low.  Still, it is there and is part of my safety briefing when I have guests.

Ken F in NM
'08 MB

Re: weep holes, hatch issue
Reply #5
Yahoo Message Number: 135295
Bumper, all your points are good ones. It's also worth noting that the plastic hatch is an easy way to break into the coach.
 While it's true that on my previous rig I had a carefully constructed knotted escape rope stored in a waterproof container on the roof, allowing me to safely descend at the cab end of the rig (yes, I tried it), I don't have a similar feature on Skylark. Reminded by a recent article in the Escapees magazine, I've added a fire escape ladder to my shopping list.
 The escape hatch may not be the best way to exit the coach in all cases of fire. On the other hand, if there's a sheet of flames between me and the exit door, I'm going out that hatch. Even if I break a leg getting down from the roof (assuming no fire escape ladder), that still beats having third-degree burns.
 I'm with Ken: it's better to have the option than not. In addition, I often use the escape hatch as a quick route to the roof when I need to clean the solar panels or do other minor maintenance work up there. It's easier and safer than climbing the ladder at the rear. When you travel solo, as I do, falling off the ladder is potentially fatal, so having a safer alternative route to the roof is important to me.

Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"

Re: weep holes, hatch issue
Reply #6
Yahoo Message Number: 135297
Thanks to Steve, Andy, Ken & Bumper for responding.
 First like to address the hatch, what bumper said is what any Firefighter would have said and I didn't think of that!  I may be in the minority in this group, but I'm afraid of heights - almost as bad as being afraid of spiders. So getting on the roof for any reason - won't happen, with me.  I see where both Ken & Andy are coming from - but Just thinking of all the scenarios of what if - could drive me crazy. So having been in emergencies before, I have a tendency to drop and roll. Most folks in any kind of emergency will freeze, it is hard to put action into one's brain in these emergencies. Those have been trained react instantly, think later.  Putting a blindfold on and going thru a pretend emergency out of the RV - time yourself as well - is a worthy endeavor. I can tell you, I don't move near as fast as I once did...
 And your right Steve, the hatch is bigger than the 14 x 14.  But wouldn't it be cheaper to use that portal vs making a whole new hole for the vent?  If I could get a dog house for the escape hatch, I wouldn't mind just leaving it, but I've tried and they won't put one on.
 As for the window... I need to figure out something, as this Alaskan girl, sleeps with the window open in cold weather. I have found when I leave the window open, the condensation does not build up like it does when the window is closed. In fact had no condensation on the hatch when I leave the window open.  If I could leave open the hatch without fear of getting wet from a rain storm, then I could see sealing up the window.  I first noticed the little pool of water in this window, after it had rained and the window was closed and my curtain (on left half) was wet. Then my pillows starting getting wet. Cleaning the weep holes helps, but the little pool of water is still there. Q-tips didn't alter the fact.

Thanks for making me consider other options, its all appreciated.

Melinda 2011 27' MB
2011 Mid Bath

Re: weep holes, hatch issue
Reply #7
Yahoo Message Number: 135298
How about leaving through the cab's passenger or driver door instead of the entry door? My SOB even has a large "EXIT" placard on the driver's door, but I'm thinking the passenger door would work just as well ;-)

Eric Greenwell
2005 Jayco 24SS

Re: weep holes, hatch issue
Reply #8
Yahoo Message Number: 135299
I use the escape hatch all the time to admire the sky, check for noises, and explore with my 4 yr old grand daughter.  I also clean the roof from there, and will be playing with cellular antennas soon.
 While use in a fire is a thought, the hatch is a second exit, not a first.
 Years ago, I  recall vandals jammed the doors of several rvs on a park, then stole outdoor items.  I like to be able to get out without breaking a window or door further.  It's my back-up escape.

D. Carlson  Lansing, MI

Re: weep holes, hatch issue
Reply #9
Yahoo Message Number: 135305
How did they jam the passenger and driver doors? And couldn't a person slide open a window, push out the screen (cheap to repair), and escape easily that way?

Eric Greenwell
2005 Jayco 24SS

Re: weep holes, hatch issue
Reply #10
Yahoo Message Number: 135309
Melinda, here is another option.
 Condensation occurs when warm, moist inside air comes in contact with a cold surface.  If your windows are new enough that they are the dual thermopane windows, the condensation is likely to be limited to the aluminum frames.  Aluminum is a wonderful conductor of heat.  That means it will get cold when it is cold outside.  Preventing the air from touching a cold surface may be all that is needed.
 On my rig, though not very noticeable, I developed a condensation solution.  My first winter started in very damp and cold New Jersey in January.  I had a LOT of condensation on the frames, especially the frames in the loft, because warm, moist air rises.  It would melt and drip down to the wall and surfaces below.  You can get foam insulation tape, about 1-1/2" wide, in places like hardware stores or home centers.  I got some of this foam tape, about 1/8" thick, and working carefully with scissors and knife, I covered the faces of the window trim.
 The result was that condensation still formed INSIDE the window track, but NOT on the outside surface.  The stuff on the inside would melt and drip out the weep holes when it was warm enough.  It ended the problem of water inside from the windows.
 A few cautions - I use the loft for lightweight storage, and for the rare guest.  Thus the window surfaces are subject to little contact, wear, etc.  The tape I have on there tears and shreds easily.  For someone who will contact that surface often, if you are going to try this, pick your tape carefully.  Find something with a thickness in place of at least 1/8", wide enough to cover the aluminum face outside the track, with an exposed surface that has sufficient abrasion and tear resistance to not be a problem.

Ken F in NM
'08 MB

Re: weep holes, hatch issue
Reply #11
Yahoo Message Number: 135316
Yes on the thermopane windows... interesting on the insulation tape. And thanks for sending me the images too.
 Thanks for the cautionary note as well, as my cats will be in more contact than I, but at this point, I think it might be worth trying on that window by my head.

Thank you Ken, all tips and/or ideas are appreciated.

Melinda
 For someone who will contact that surface often, if you are going to try this, pick your tape carefully.  Find something with a thickness in place of at least 1/8", wide enough to cover the aluminum face outside the track, with an exposed surface that has sufficient abrasion and tear resistance to not be a problem.
2011 Mid Bath

Re: weep holes, hatch issue
Reply #12
Yahoo Message Number: 135318
"wovenfiber"  wrote: my cats will be in more contact than I, but at this point, I think it might be worth trying on that window by my head.

---- Melinda, a cheap fix is to prop at least one cat up against the window; the fur will soak up whatever moisture is in the channel! ;-)

Joan
2003 TK has a new home

 
Re: weep holes, hatch issue
Reply #13
Yahoo Message Number: 135331
What a hoot Joan!  Laughing with a vision of the cat squirming away....

Thanks!  Melinda
2011 Mid Bath