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Topic: LED Replacement for the Fluorescent Fixture (Read 9 times) previous topic - next topic
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LED Replacement for the Fluorescent Fixture
Yahoo Message Number: 117930
You might look at "Article53.pdf" and "Article54.pdf" in the Files section of "Techsnoz" for a different solution.  I used a pine board cut to the size of the Lazy Daze fluorescent fixture to overcome the Lazy Daze cut-out that was bigger than the Maxxima M84409 cargo light.  It has 42 LEDs, puts out 580 lumens, and draws 0.86 amps.  The project materials cost about $100 per fixture.  I think I paid $85 for a replacement fluorescent fixture from Lazy Daze a couple of ears ago so
 I started out a couple of years ago by by adding an expensive 6 big LED Phillips cargo light over my dinnette table so I would have light directly over my work area on the table.  Then I supplemented my over the sink light with a Maxxima M844280 9 LED strip.  Then I found the Maxxima M84409 cargo light and replaced 4 of 5 fluorescent fixtures. Now I have found a new one - the M84410 "Sleeper/Cab" light with a Low/High switch built in at a cost of about $115, but I have not seen one yet.  I am going to replace my over-the-sink flourescent with a M84409 so all 5 of my lights are the same and all of the fluorescent fixtures are history.
 A friend put in two of the "strips" from Jirah in his rig and they were a ghostly blue light and dim even before half of the individual LEDs burned out or weakly flashed intermittently after only a few weeks of use.  I have had the same type of bad experience with the LED circuit boards from SuperBrightLEDs.  The Maxxima interior products seem to be high quality and I have had no problems with them so far.
 I am happy with my bright white LED lighting and do not miss the fiddling with the old fluorscent tubes.

Terry Tanner 2001 27RB in Los Angeles
Terry Apple
2013 RB 27 Baby Blue Bentley
Re: LED Replacement for the Fluorescent Fixture
Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 117934
Quote
A friend put in two of the "strips" from Jirah in his rig and they were a ghostly blue light and dim even before half of the individual LEDs burned out or weakly flashed intermittently after only a few weeks of use.  I have had the same type of bad experience with the LED circuit boards from SuperBrightLEDs.
Terry Tanner
I have had the same poor experience with the very short longevity of superbrightleds.  They quickly became superdim.

Ed
 
Re: LED Replacement for the Fluorescent Fixture
Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 117950
Quote
The less expensive automotive LEDs are fine for chassis applications like tail lights, etc., but won't have the constant brightness or longer life wanted for coach interior lighting applications.
 The constant current driver is sometimes also called a "buck driver".
Michelle, note that automotive chassis electrical items need to withstand the full range of 11V to about 14.5V due to variations in alternator output as the battery charges. Concerns arise mostly for items intended to be driven from a 12V plug-in power supply for home use. These are less likely to withstand high voltages. Automotive LED lamps that fail are the victim of poor design or materials.
 A note too on 'buck' terminology with DC-to-DC converters - that refers to any driver that reduces the voltage to the load, and it can be either current or voltage control. The opposite is a 'boost' driver, whose output voltage is higher than the input.

Steve
2004 FL
2013 Honda Fit