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Topic: Follow Up on Roof Air Water Leak (Read 5 times) previous topic - next topic
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Follow Up on Roof Air Water Leak
Yahoo Message Number: 110851
Thanks for all of the advice in this matter.  I tightend up the 3 mounting bolts on the inside.  Replaced the outside fiberglass cover.  Pressure washed roof with emphasis on A/C unit.  Had my brother inside with a flashlight and no leaks.  Also checked insides of cabinets and light fixture in ceiling above stove.  No water or dampness.  Fingers crossed, looks like everything is OK for now.

Hope to be "out there" by the end of 2010.

R
Re: Follow Up on Roof Air Water Leak
Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 110854
"Pressure washed roof with emphasis on A/C unit."
 Too late now, but the factory says pressure washing any part of the LD is a bad idea. Seams and joints that are tight and waterproof under normal conditions can be forced to leak when blasted from odd angles with several hundred PSI. Definitely NOT recommended!

Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"
Re: Follow Up on Roof Air Water Leak
Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 110855
Definitely NOT recommended!

Quote
Andy:
I have seen pro's and con's on this.  I hold the wand a good foot away from the surface and do not spend extra time on the joints and keep it moving.  I also use one of the wider nozzles that do not concentrate the spray as much.  One of my thoughts on this is that in a rainstorm, driving, at 60MPH it is not too different than a cautious pressure wash.  I know that soem pressure washers are capable of stripping paint and etching concrete under the right conditions.
Re: Follow Up on Roof Air Water Leak
Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 110858
"in a rainstorm, driving, at 60MPH it is not too different than a cautious pressure wash."
 A good pressure washer generates water speeds up to 300 mph. Try a Google search on 'pressure washer rv damage'. Here's a typical comment:
 "I used a pressure washer on our Airstream. Big mistake. In a week or so later I went inside and there was mold growing on the interior walls!"
 For a more authoritative viewpoint, read this article by a gentleman who owns an RV cleaning business:

http://www.rvcleanuppro.com/about.html>
 He went to the trouble of checking with the major RV manufacturers. Coachman, Damon, Monaco, Newmar, Gulf Stream, Winnebago... every manufacturer who replied said not to use a pressure washer. And as we know, Lazy Daze says likewise. This isn't just academic--it could become a warranty issue.
 Now, I won't claim that pressure washing guarantees disaster in every case. After all, you might walk across Broadway wearing a blindfold and get away with it. ;-) And your particular pressure washer and nozzle *might* be OK. But when every RV manufacturer, including our favorite one, agrees that pressure washing is a risky thing to do... well, I'm not inclined to shrug off those warnings.

Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"
Roof vent
Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 110859
I know I have seen  it mentioned, but just a check before I start in with a crow-bar: The roof vent that the TV cable is ported through is a friction fit with no screws or other attachments,

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Right?

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Re: Follow Up on Roof Air Water Leak--A/C cleaning
Reply #5 –
Yahoo Message Number: 110861
A garden hose with an adjustable pistol nozzle should be all one would ever need for cleaning an MH.
Once a year of so, I will blast around the base of the A/C to clear out leaves and twigs. Then, with the A/C cover removed, the condenser fins get gently blown out from the inside, using a fan-shaped stream of water, being careful not to bend the delicate fins.
 Pressure washers are wonderful for cleaning old parts, sidewalks, runways, buildings to be painted but they should be kept away from functioning cars and RVs. I have seen way too much damage caused by them. They can be hell on mechanical things if the seals are breached.

Larry
2001 MB
* Not to be confused with Larry W (3000 of my posts are actually from expert Larry W due to Yahoo transition mis-step)
Re: Roof vent
Reply #6 –
Yahoo Message Number: 110862
"The roof vent that the TV cable is ported through is a friction fit with no screws or other attachments"

George

Not at all sure what you are asking.
 On every LD I have looked at, the TV lead-in cable passes through the metal base of the TV antenna.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/winegard-batwing-sensar-iii-antenna/26655>  Hover the cursor over the photo to zoom.

Got a picture of yours?

Larry
2001 MB
* Not to be confused with Larry W (3000 of my posts are actually from expert Larry W due to Yahoo transition mis-step)
Re: Roof vent
Reply #7 –
Yahoo Message Number: 110863
Quote
On every LD I have looked at, the TV lead-in cable passes through the metal base of the TV antenna.
Larry, on our FL the antenna lead-in is draped through a fake plumbing roof vent. Originally, the CB antenna lead also entered there.

Steve
2004 FL
2013 Honda Fit
Re: Roof vent
Reply #8 –
Yahoo Message Number: 110864
"Larry, on our FL the antenna lead-in is draped through a fake plumbing roof vent. Originally, the CB antenna lead also entered there."

Steve
 I will have to take my original statement back. My 1983 LD had to have the same antenna inlet as yours. I'm sure I looked at it many times.
CRS strikes again!
 So, is the cable glued or clamped? I assume the OP wanted to replace the TV cable.

Larry
2001 MB
* Not to be confused with Larry W (3000 of my posts are actually from expert Larry W due to Yahoo transition mis-step)
Re: Roof vent
Reply #9 –
Yahoo Message Number: 110871
Quote
So, is the cable glued or clamped? I assume the OP wanted to replace the TV cable.
The cable is Parlastic-ed to the base of the antenna. When ours wore through the jacket at the vent and lost the shield connection, I drilled out the rivets holding the vent cap on, spiced in a new cable pigtail, then pop-riveted the cover back.

Steve
2004 FL
2013 Honda Fit
Re: Roof vent
Reply #10 –
Yahoo Message Number: 110873
This is an '84, so the vintage and style are as mentioned.
The cable comes out of the Winegard and goes into the roof vent. It is bolted at the base of the roof vent.
The cable is completely rotted through, but I'm hoping that under the roof vent is enough good cable that I can splice to it and not have to run new cable inside.
The roof vent has not budged, but 25 years of sea-spray.........
I'm figuring a 2x4 on the roof, a 1x4 under the vent, and a gentle crow bar between.
Any expertise would be appreciated.

"on our FL the antenna lead-in is draped through a fake plumbing roof vent. Originally, the CB antenna lead also entered there."

"My 1983 LD had to have the same antenna inlet as yours.
So, is the cable glued or clamped? I assume the OP wanted to replace the TV cable."

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: Roof vent
Reply #11 –
Yahoo Message Number: 110875
Quote
The cable is completely rotted through, but I'm hoping that under the roof vent is enough good cable that I can splice to it and not have to run new cable inside.
The roof vent has not budged, but 25 years of sea-spray.........
I'm figuring a 2x4 on the roof, a 1x4 under the vent, and a gentle crow bar between.
Any expertise would be appreciated.
I don't recommend prying - are you certain the cap is not riveted to the riser? Even if it is welded, you should be able to ID the weld spots and drill them out. This avoids stress to the roof and preserves its integrity. Pop rivets to re-secure with dabs of sealant should last indefinitely.

Steve
2004 FL
2013 Honda Fit
Re: Roof vent
Reply #12 –
Yahoo Message Number: 110877
"are you certain the cap is not riveted to the riser?" I am definitely not certain! That is why I asked.
I remember seeing something about the roof vents that said they were friction fit, but I couldn't find it.
I'll go look again for weld spots.

Thanks GP

Quote
The cable is completely rotted through, but I'm hoping that under the roof vent is enough good cable that I can splice to it and not have to run new cable inside.
The roof vent has not budged, but 25 years of sea-spray... ......
I'm figuring a 2x4 on the roof, a 1x4 under the vent, and a gentle crow bar between.
Any expertise would be appreciated.
I don't recommend prying - are you certain the cap is not riveted to the riser? Even if it is welded, you should be able to ID the weld spots and drill them out. This avoids stress to the roof and preserves its integrity. Pop rivets to re-secure with dabs of sealant should last indefinitely.

Steve

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: Roof vent
Reply #13 –
Yahoo Message Number: 110878
The cap!!! I was looking for a tube under the cap.
Thanks all.
GP "..... I drilled out the rivets holding the vent cap on, ....." Steve

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
Re: Roof vent
Reply #14 –
Yahoo Message Number: 110880
That was a whole lot easier when I understood what was going on.
Now my WIFI signal doesn't come though the window anymore!

Thanks to Steve and Larry and anyone else who contributed.
GP

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