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Topic: Breaker switch in battery compartment (Read 14 times) previous topic - next topic
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Breaker switch in battery compartment
Yahoo Message Number: 105523
I have a 2002 30'.  When I unplugged and left a campground, I noticed I did not have any 12 volt power.  By starting the chassis engine I was able to start the generator.  At that point it appeared I had plenty of 12 volt power.  As soon as I turned the generator off, and one overhead light on, I lost 12 volt power within 30 seconds.  While plugged in all of my 12 volt uses work as usual.
 I searched through Art's fabulous archives and found out about a breaker in the battery compartment.  The breaker is a Buss 100 amp.  I took the protective cover off and found a little switch with an arrow to  turn it to the right to reset it.  Their is a small plastic tip that restricts the switch so it will only move a slight amount.  When I move it, there is no resistance like you would find on a more common breaker.  When I hook an amp meter to it, it appears to not have any current going through it.

Is there anything else I can try before removing and replacing? thanks Charlie G
Charlie Gary
2016 Subaru Forester

Re: Breaker switch in battery compartment
Reply #1
Yahoo Message Number: 105524
Quote
From: bookcop2002
 To: lifewithalazydazerv@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Friday, September 04, 2009 9:34 AM
 Subject: [LD] Breaker switch in battery compartment

When I hook an amp meter to it, it appears to not have any current going through it.

Is there anything else I can try before removing and replacing? thanks Charlie G

Charlie,
 How are you connecting your ampmeter to test the breaker? You may already know all this (and if so I appologize), a DC clamp-on ampmeter probe can be connected around a wire to take a current reading. But most ampmeters need to be connected in series with the circuit under test. So:
 Let's assume the circuit breaker under test is closed (normal). If you connect your ampmeter across the breaker, one probe to each connection, you would see almost zero current. If you connect a voltmeter across the breaker you will also see almost zero voltage. Any slight reading you see will be due to the small internal resistance of the breaker.
 Okay, now we'll assume the breaker has failed open or has tripped open. If you connect your ampmeter as before, across the two connectors, the ampmeter will complete the circuit to your house DC loads and so will read total current flow. If you have something downstream turned on, and then connect a voltmeter across the open circuit breaker, the meter will read the voltage drop across the open breaker, or almost battery voltage.
 Bottom line: To test a circuit breaker or fuse, it's probably quickest and easiest to use your voltmeter function. Make sure at least some 12 volt device (light fixture etc) is turned on and then read across the circuit breaker or fuse, placing a voltmeter probe on each terminal. If you read battery voltage, or almost so, *open breaker*. If you read zero or millivolts, breaker closed or fuse good.

all the best,

bumper
bumper
"Yonder" '05 MB
"WLDBLU" glider trailer

Re: Breaker switch in battery compartment
Reply #2
Yahoo Message Number: 105525
Quote

Charlie,
 How are you connecting your ampmeter to test the breaker? You may already know all this (and if so I appologize), a DC clamp-on ampmeter probe can be connected around a wire to take a current reading. But most ampmeters need to be connected in series with the circuit under test. So:
 Bumper, you are correct, I was using the ampmeter and getting a zero reading.  I will try it following your excellent directions.  There is no 12 volt power to any of the 12 volt appliances .
thanks Charlie G
Charlie Gary
2016 Subaru Forester

Re: Breaker switch in battery compartment
Reply #3
Yahoo Message Number: 105526
Charlie,
 Don't mess with that breaker yet.  If things worked as normal with the engine running, that breaker is probably OK.  It sounds to me like you have a bad battery or an open battery disconnect switch (if you have one).
Take that voltmeter and check the voltage of each battery without the engine or generator or shore power plugged in.  If they read 6 V or more, check across both to be sure you read 12 V or more.  My guess is that one or the other reading will tell you what the problem is.

Rich Gort - 2000 MB - Birch Bay, WA
Former 2000 MB- Now Bullet Crossfire 1800RB trailer pulled by a Chevy 2500HD

Re: Breaker switch in battery compartment
Reply #4
Yahoo Message Number: 105527
Thanks, Rich.  I have a Batteries Plus franchisee a mile away.  He checked the two lifeline batteries and both checked out ok.  I do not have the LD optional battery disconnect switch installed.
Charlie

Quote
Charlie,
 Don't mess with that breaker yet.  If things worked as normal with the engine running, that breaker is probably OK.  It sounds to me like you have a bad battery or an open battery disconnect switch (if you have one).
Take that voltmeter and check the voltage of each battery without the engine or generator or shore power plugged in.  If they read 6 V or more, check across both to be sure you read 12 V or more.  My guess is that one or the other reading will tell you what the problem is.
Charlie Gary
2016 Subaru Forester

Re: Breaker switch in battery compartment
Reply #5
Yahoo Message Number: 105529
Quote


Thanks, Rich.  I have a Batteries Plus franchisee a mile away.  He checked the two lifeline batteries and both checked out ok.  I do not have the LD optional battery disconnect switch installed.
New data from someone who knows nothing about electricity, but may be helpful for the Richs and Bumpers of the world who do.

1.  In the sun the solar charger shows the batteries as fully charged.  Pulled into the barn, the charger goes blank.

2.  I do not have 12 volt power, BUT the coach batteries will start the generator.  With the generator running I DO have 12 volt power.
Charlie Gary
2016 Subaru Forester

Re: Breaker switch in battery compartment
Reply #6
Yahoo Message Number: 105531
"If you connect your ampmeter [across the breaker]... the ampmeter will complete the circuit to your house DC loads and so will read total current flow."
 Assuming you don't blow the ammeter's own fuse, that is. Many of the smaller, less expensive DMMs can only handle five or ten amps when in current-measuring mode. So before hooking up, be certain the current you're going to be measuring will be within your meter's capabilities.

Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"

 
Re: Breaker switch in battery compartment
Reply #7
Yahoo Message Number: 105537
Quote
From: andybaird2000
 To: lifewithalazydazerv@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Friday, September 04, 2009 12:47 PM
 Subject: [LD] Re: Breaker switch in battery compartment

"If you connect your ampmeter [across the breaker]... the ampmeter will complete the circuit to your house DC loads and so will read total current flow."
 Assuming you don't blow the ammeter's own fuse, that is. Many of the smaller, less expensive DMMs can only handle five or ten amps when in current-measuring mode. So before hooking up, be certain the current you're going to be measuring will be within your meter's capabilities.

Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/

Andy,

I agree and should have included that info.
 Here's another tip. A handy tool can be made from a standard car tail/brake light bulb. Solder test leads, one to the base - - shine it first with steel wool or Scotchbrite before tinning a spot with solder. The other lead will be spot soldered to both the base contacts. Pre-tin the wires in both cases.
 Next, coat the bulb completely with silicone rubber caulking - - clear is best. This will keep the bulb from breaking in your tool box. Attach alligator clips to the test leads. Now you have a handy "load testor" that will draw under 3 amps. Here's a couple of ways to use it.
 Say you have an intermittent electical short somewhere that keeps blowing fuses. To find the problem without blowing a bunch of expesive fuses, first turn off all load devices on the circuit. Connect the "load tester" across the blown fuse (or in place of the fuse). If the short is present, the lamp will light, if not it won't light. Wiggle wires, bang things, pull and push on fixtures etc in an attempt to change the status of the load tester. When you find the problem, it'll switch states.
 The load tester can give a quick indication of the presence of 12 volts, and with it's brightness, a rough indication of battery condition. Placed across a fuse, if it lights the fuse is open, if not the fuse is good. It can also be used as a load to intentionally drain smaller 12 volt batteries or to load test them.

all the best,

bumper
bumper
"Yonder" '05 MB
"WLDBLU" glider trailer