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Topic: Resealing Windows (Read 106 times) previous topic - next topic
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Re: RV Insurance
Reply #25
Yahoo Message Number: 125921
At 01:19 PM 10/11/2011, you wrote:
 
Quote
The liability insurance for our Camry is actually higher, at $246/year, so apparently, older couples driving motorhomes are very good risks and don't hit expensive objects very often, but when they get into a "sporty" car - watch out!
I think it's more likely because you actually drive your Camry a lot more than you do your MH. And just between you and me, we love our Camry but it's not exactly a sports car! :-)

Sonsie

Re: Resealing Windows
Reply #26
Yahoo Message Number: 125926
I am viewing the LD site on the web and I see it just fine.  Maybe it only works for me?  Maybe you have that download picture thing turned off?  I am using firefox for a browser.  Did you ever see that picture that Greg posted of that new LD on the front page of our site?  This was the day that Andy turned the feature on. I attached the same way I am pretty sure.
 I assume this hole is for water escape from the outside of the window, whatever gets behind the rubber. Again, I think this glaze just helps push the glass again the frame.  Whatever is between the glass and frame is what does the sealing. If there is access to inside the window from this hole..  you got problems.  You probably saw the holes in the metal frame, these are to drain the water that gets in the slider channels.

Ramon

Re: Resealing Windows
Reply #27
Yahoo Message Number: 125928
On Tue, 11 Oct 2011 22:06:33 -0000, Ramon P wrote:
 
Quote
I am viewing the LD site on the web and I see it just fine. Maybe it
Ramon.. It may be because I'm at work behind a firewall that doesn't allow access to some sites.. I'll check it when I'm at home.. Thx for the info!

In the meantime..

So.. I called up NagcoGlass in Pomona (CA) and spoke with them.. The nice lady that answered was able to help me out with most questions and she filled in all of the gaps I was not sure about.  So, I'll fill you all in for your own information and perhaps this can (in some form) make it into the LD Companion as it applies (I believe) to ALL models of LD's with Hehr windows (which is all of them as far as I know)..

So, the glazing that is on the outside of the glass that I had shown in my picture earlier is decorative and nothing more and is a rubber/vinyl product.  I asked about the rectangular hole in the bottom of some windows and she is of the opinion that the weep holes are in the frame and not in the glazing but I guess we can check once an older window is taken apart.

So, once you remove the decorative glazing, the window glass is actually held in place with black urethane adhesive.  The seal between the glass & frame (care of the Urethane sealant) can be removed using a sharp putty knife to slice through the old sealant/adhesive as close to the glass as possible.  Once you do that you should be able to gently remove the glass from the metal frame itself.

At that point it's an issue of cleaning the old urethane sealant out completely and also from the window glass itself.
Once all is clean you're ready for re-installation prep..
In speaking with the Nagco lady, she wasn't sure if her guys use an adhesive primer or not but I'm going to assume you need it if you're using the 3M products to re-adhere the window.

Per the instructions on the 3M adhesive (Super Fast Urethane), the primer helps to keep UV rays at bay and also helps with the adhesion so it would be good for this use although 3M does not indicate anything about use on an RV.  The directions can be found on the pages linked to below.

3M Windo-Weld Super Fast Urethane (3M Part # 08609) 3M Single-step primer (3M Part #8682 - good for 6 windshields) (3M Part #8681 - good for 25 windshields)

The primer claims a shelflife of 7 days once it's opened so plan accordingly.  I'm not sure how many bottles are needed for a typical LD -- perhaps 1 or 2 of the smaller ones to prime the frame?  The primer should be applied with a wool dauber per the 3M directions and wait 10 minutes for it to cure/dry prior to applying the sealant per the directions below as part of the 3M sealant page.. The 3M sealant will cure very quickly and has a typical work-time of about 10 minutes give or take.

Wool Dauber like this one for applying the primer: http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/3445-00.aspx

3M Windo-Weld Super Fast Urethane : http://tinyurl.com/62p3xkv

3M Single-Step Primer : http://tinyurl.com/3zwonnr

Re: Resealing Windows
Reply #28
Yahoo Message Number: 125929
Hey rick, This is all great info and thanks for your efforts.  This is the black goo I spoke of in our emails.  I am glad we have a name for it but I am confused.  I thought you used that creepy crack stuff to reseal this black goop area on your side bunk windows, thus the wicking effect.  Do these places leak on your rig now?  I only have evidence of this on my front bunk window where it leaks in each corner.  I think I sent you pix.  This is the only place I seem to have trouble with the black urethane seal.
 If you recall, Pete (Cornish Pete) removed a large pane form his rig a month or so ago and he used a tape (maybe 3M) to reinstall the glass piece not the urethane.  He had 2 LD's side by side and did not want to remove the entire window of each to replace a cracked window pane.  In his case, the tape was too think and the window had problems opening up.  I think the same would hold true if you git the black urethane applied too thick.  This is really a lot of work to do if you plan to do all windows.  How long to plan to keep the rig??

Ramon

Re: Resealing Windows
Reply #29
Yahoo Message Number: 125931
Rick et al..
"I don't see your picture"
 It appears the way I attached (embedded image with "Rich text editor") does not show up when viewing the "Daily Digest" only when you go to the actual forum and look at all the messages does my attachment show.   At least this is how it is working for me.

Ramon

Re: Resealing Windows
Reply #30
Yahoo Message Number: 125932
Quote
On Tue, 11 Oct 2011 22:34:12 -0000, Ramon P wrote: "  This is all great info and thanks for your efforts. This is the black goo I spoke of in our emails. I am glad we have a name for it but I am confused. I thought you used that creepy crack stuff to reseal this black goop area on your side bunk windows, thus the wicking effect. Do these places leak on your rig now? I only have evidence of this on my front bunk window where it leaks in each corner. I think I sent you pix. This is the only place I seem to have trouble with the black urethane seal."

I did actually apply the creepy crack stuff to the glazing and now I realize it was probably on the wrong side of the window and no, I have no evidence of any leaking yet -- just a prevention thing since I had the window out anyway I guess -- more importantly because the creepy stuff works best on a flat surface..  However, now that I KNOW how this stuff all works in my head, I'll plan on replacing only the glazing and getting rid of the black urethane that prior owners had installed in the gaps of the shrunken glazing.
 " [...] I think the same would hold true if you git the black urethane applied too thick. This is really a lot of work to do if you plan to do all windows. How long to plan to keep the rig??"

Ramon.. You make a good point.. I don't plan on owning it more than perhaps 5 years but want to make sure it's as water tight as possible since we'll be driving it up to Oregon a lot and will be rained on but would like to keep the rain on the outside not the inside.. :)

Perhaps after I get the glazing replaced I can do some leak checks to see if I've got leak issues -- I suspect I may on a few windows but can't be sure until I remove the windows and see the hidden wood.

By the way.. Do you recall what the gap is between the driver or passenger door top and the bottom of the cap-over bed?  Ours has about 1/4" currently and I'm thinking that's a bit too close and that it may be sagging as Larry mentioned.  One more thing to keep an eye out for when perusing older LD's..

Re: RV Insurance
Reply #31
Yahoo Message Number: 125933
Probably, or at least as a group; personally, we drive the Camry ~6000 miles and the motorhome ~12,000 each year. State Farm knows that, but it doesn't affect our rate. And after a few thousand miles in the motorhome with a 34 foot trailer behind it, the Camry certainly *feels* very sporty when we come home!

Eric Greenwell
2005 Jayco 24SS

Re: RV Insurance
Reply #32
Yahoo Message Number: 125935
Quote

Hi ,

I am wondering who most of you prefer for your RV Insurance.
Betty Jean& Circus Wagon

Betty Jean, I typed in "insurance" in the search box for this site and found 1514 messages.  Probably not all of them will answer your questions, but there have been lots of insurance discussions over the last 11 years.  Also try the "searchable archive" and the Lazy Daze Companion.  I use Progressive and am pleased with its service.

Chris
Formerly: 2002 30' IB

Re: Resealing Windows
Reply #33
Yahoo Message Number: 125936
"since we'll be driving it up to Oregon a lot and will be rained on but would like to keep the rain on the outside not the inside.. :)"

Oh yes..  for Oregon, you want a water tight ship!
 If it were me, I would check for leaks before I put the glazing in.  This allows you to add more sealer from inside and outside in problem areas. Please note for the outside it would have to be a thin layer of whatever product so the glazing can go back in.

By the time this is done, you will be an expert on RV windows!

Ramon

Re: Resealing Windows
Reply #34
Yahoo Message Number: 125937
Rick et all again..  in viewing this at home, with Firefox, I don't see the embedded image either.  This is strange.  It worked fine on my work computer.  Guess I will need to do the "attachment" method unless I figure this out.
Ramon

Re: Resealing Windows
Reply #35
Yahoo Message Number: 125938
On Wed, 12 Oct 2011 00:01:20 -0000, Ramon P wrote:
 
Quote
If it were me, I would check for leaks before I put the glazing in.
This allows you to add more sealer from inside and outside in problem areas. Please note for the outside it would have to be a thin layer of whatever product so the glazing can go back in.
Yes.. I'm thinking at this point I'll just start doing the window R&R treatment first and monkey around with glazing replacement later since it's just a visual thing.  I've received my two rolls of Eternabond tape from Amazon (and returned, yesterday, the Dicor equiv that I got at Campingworld for almost twice the price) and can enlist my kids to help with the removal, cleaning and replacements depending on wood condition.  I know for a fact that the rear large window is going to need some new wood as it's had a leak right next to it in the past and the wood is gone for all intents and purposes..

By the way.. I'm assuming that If I need to replace wood in one of these openings, that I need to remove the inside panelling to do the proper removal and refabrication of a new piece, etc.. Correct?

Quote
By the time this is done, you will be an expert on RV windows!
Yeah, that's what I'm afraid of.. :)

One of the next things on my short-list is the fridge -- the old Dometic RM763 (original) has a freezer that works like the arctic but the fridge only gets somewhat cold on max cold setting (#7) but nothing on #5 setting.. Since I've smelled no ammonia I'm going to hope it's just a heating issue and will check for spiders, and other debris in the outside area of the fridge.. Supposedly it worked as recently as last year..  P.S. Does yours have a switch on the dash that says "fridge 12V -> Propane" or similar?  Not sure if that was a factory switch or something added by a PO.

Re: Resealing Windows
Reply #36
Yahoo Message Number: 125939
On Wed, 12 Oct 2011 00:09:42 -0000, Ramon P wrote:
 
Quote
Rick et all again.. in viewing this at home, with Firefox, I don't see the embedded image either. This is strange. It worked fine on my work computer. Guess I will need to do the "attachment" method unless I figure this out.
No worries..

Re: Resealing Windows
Reply #37
Yahoo Message Number: 125941
OK how about this for the bunk glazing picture.  If so, using rich text editor , I drug the picture in,

Re: Resealing Windows
Reply #38
Yahoo Message Number: 125942
"OK how about this for the bunk glazing picture."

Ramon

It works!

Larry
2001 MB
* Not to be confused with Larry W (3000 of my posts are actually from expert Larry W due to Yahoo transition mis-step)


Re: RV Insurance
Reply #40
Yahoo Message Number: 125945
Betty Jean, you can save yourself some time by using Yahoo's search feature to look on our website for messages containing the word 'insurance'. There's been plenty of discussion of this over the years... no need to rehash it. :-)

Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"

Re: RV Insurance
Reply #41
Yahoo Message Number: 125951
Thanks everyone for your suggestions!  I will check out Progressive online today.  I did go over to AAA yesterday and found that they will save me about $700 per year by bundling which is almost what I am paying for Circus Wagon alone , $790. with GMAC aka Good Sam .  With AAA it will increase my liability limits.  AAA cut my home insurance by 50% with more insurance, go figure!  I will let you know the outcome of all this in a few days.
Whadda great bunch of people we have!!!!! Betty Jean & Circus Wagon


Re: Resealing Windows
Reply #43
Yahoo Message Number: 125954
Quote
"OK how about this for the bunk glazing picture."

Ramon

It works! Larry
It didn't work for us.  We get our posts via the digest, and nothing came through.  -- Jon & Loni
(Former) ‘06 TK “Albatross.” And (former) Vespa 250.   Alas, no more; both are gone.😕 Great memories remain! 😄

Re: Resealing Windows
Reply #44
Yahoo Message Number: 125955
If you're using Digest mode on any Yahoo groups (this one or any other), here's what I found out that was posted on another Yahoo group regarding missing pictures in digest mode postings :
 "If you receive email, you'll get the pictures. The way Yahoo works, is that if someone makes a post with a picture, the post and the picture are sent to everyone in the group. Then the message is stored in the message section stripped of the pictures.

If you don't receive email and/or choose digest, you'll receive the post but not the picture. There is no way around this, other than whoever makes the post provides a link to the picture from another location. That location could be on the group, but we still have the problem storing the picture and the hassle linking it in the post."

Hope that helps..

-- Rick