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Topic: "True Ignition Source" for Battery Isolator and Relay (Read 16 times) previous topic - next topic
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Re: "True Ignition Source" for Battery Isolator and Relay
Reply #25 –
Yahoo Message Number: 99234
Quote
What did work was following Trojan's testing recommendations and using a hydrometer to measure specific gravity of each cell. Periodically logging the information gave us a way of watching the gradual decline of the battery packs.
What a coincidence!  I just bought a cheap hydrometer from Walmart.
This is the one with 4 color balls.  The number of floating balls indicate the gravity: 4 = 100% 3 = 75% 2 = 50% 1 = 25% 0 = Dead.

I will do the test in a few minutes.

Sam
Re: Driving Lights Standards
Reply #26 –
Yahoo Message Number: 99235
"if and when I replace the "original" 1985 headlights to more modern halogen if memory serves me right the three adjustment screws on the lamps will remain in place, Yes? And if not what are your ideas on *aiming* the beam so as to be most useful? Next question is...if I add highway lamps onto the bumber should they be wired separately with 2 toggle switches and inline fuses or does that matter? " John
 Halogen bulbs should be a direct replacement as long as the bulb # is the same. Adjustment is the same.
If you are satisfied with the existing aiming, use the method below.
When replacing bulbs, I like to pull the rig up near to the garage door (15-20'). Turn the headlights on and mark the garage door where the bright spot is located using a piece of masking tape. Mark for high and low beam.
After the new bulbs are installed, check the where their beams hit the door and adjust to the old marks.

If you want to start from scratch, the net is full of sites with aiming procedures.
http://www.midstatedmc.com/tech/aim.htm

Additional driving lights should have their own new wiring (10-12 gauge wire), relay and proper fusing. I would run the power directly from the battery, through a fuse, to a new relay. A switch on the dash would activate the relay.
Wire it so the driving lights come on only be on when the high beams are in use.
 Steve mentioned the small headlight wires as being the limiting factor in headlight brightness. If I was running a lot of new wire for driving lights, I would be tempted to rewire the headlights at the same time. It made a big difference in our Cherokee. You could minimize a lot of wiring by using the existing headlight wires to drive new the relays for the headlights and driving lights.

If you are still interested and have questions, PM me.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: "True Ignition Source" for Battery Isolator and Relay
Reply #27 –
Yahoo Message Number: 99236
"Can you elaborate on this? FWIW, I do let the coach battery heavily discharged, sometimes down to 10V."

Sam

Discharging that low is destroying your battery. Be prepared to replace the battery every year or two.
The solution is to install additional or larger batteries so the discharge level is kept lower.

I do not remember what floor plan you have.
In our 1983 Front Lounge, I built a vented-battery box behind the front barrel chair to house two T-105 batteries. I abandoned the coach battery that was mounted in the engine compartment.
Steve recently did a similar thing to his '83 FL. He used AGM batteries to eliminate the venting problem.
I think he has photos on this site.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Driving Lights Standards
Reply #29 –
Yahoo Message Number: 99239
Quote
Great info as usual from the group...I have two questions on
headlights...First one is if and when I replace the "original" 1985 headlites to more modern halogen if memory serves me right the three adjustment screws on the lamps will remain in place, Yes? And if not what are your ideas on *aiming* the beam so as to be most useful?
 Note there are 2 aiming screws, not 3, per headlamp, one above and one to the outside of the lamp. There are 3 attachment screws. Also, note that the major part of the adjustment mechanisms is of a plastic - a very old and brittle plastic. If one breaks, it is important to retrieve all the little pieces, which can then help you identify the correct new part. I have had good success finding those at Napa Auto Parts, while on the road.

Steve
2004 FL
2013 Honda Fit
Re: "True Ignition Source" for Battery Isolator and Relay
Reply #30 –
Yahoo Message Number: 99240
Quote
Discharging that low is destroying your battery. Be prepared to replace the battery every year or two.
The solution is to install additional or larger batteries so the discharge level is kept lower.
I think Larry is being optimistic about battery life. A resting reading of 11.9V, I believe, is considered 100% discharged at about 72F. He had also mentioned the T-105 batteries in an earlier post, which are much more rugged than the one you have.

Placing a pair of T-105's (6V) behind the chair and venting to the outside is a great economical choice if you are handy - it involves making holes to the outside for drainage and upper venting for the batteries, well-sealed from the inside, and accommodation for venting acids. My installation is simpler, but involves outrageously expensive batteries.

Steve
2004 FL
2013 Honda Fit
Re: "True Ignition Source" for Battery Isolator and Relay
Reply #31 –
Yahoo Message Number: 99241
Reading past posts i understand the converter on my 85 FL is suspect. When we stop at full hookups and stay plugged into shore power for three days straight, would we be in danger of "cooking" our coach batteries? {two trojans, not sure their capacities}
Re: "True Ignition Source" for Battery Isolator and Relay
Reply #32 –
Yahoo Message Number: 99243
Quote
Reading past posts i understand the converter on my 85 FL is
suspect. When we stop at full hookups and stay plugged into shore power for three days straight, would we be in danger of "cooking" our coach batteries? {two trojans, not sure their capacities}

No, 3 days will not do it. A couple weeks connected won't do it either, IF you check and top up battery levels weekly. But, the stock converter both charges very slowly and does not charge at a high enough voltage to top off the batteries. A good charger will top off the batteries, then stop charging, or trickle at a very low rate. The stock one charges just enough to boil off the liquid over time.

Steve
2004 FL
2013 Honda Fit
I killed my alternator!
Reply #35 –
Yahoo Message Number: 99271
I was careful, but was also tired, and it was getting dark.  So, while replacing the two slightly corroded side post bolts of the engine battery, I created a spark and ruined the alternator.

Now the dashboard battery light does not come on anymore when the ignition is on (engine not running).  When the engine is running, the alternator voltage output is only 8.x volt, measured at the center post of the battery isolator (it was 14.x volt before I broke it.)
 Did I killed the whole alternator, or just a fuse, or the alternator's regulator?

I check all the fuses inside the cab, at the firewall on the driver side.  They are all ok.  Are there any other fuses elsewhere?

Thanks,

Sam
Re: "True Ignition Source" for Battery Isolator and Relay
Reply #36 –
Yahoo Message Number: 99276
Quote
Our old LD's 3-way refrigerator would ran on 12-volts, to be used while driving. The refrigerator used around 24-amps on 12-volt
power.
 
Quote
The stock alternator did not have enough output to run the engine, dash A/C and the refrigerator at the same time. The battery would discharge while driving. We had to run the refrigerator on propane while on the road.
Larry, I don't think I have the original fridge anymore.  Mine is a 2-way Norcold unit.  It's run on propane while when I'm driving.  By the way, this Norcold fridge is driving me crazy.  I could not find a way to shut it down.  The instruction on the door says to press and hold the on/off button for 2 seconds to turn it off.  Well, it does turn off for about 30 seconds, and then comes right back on.  The only way for me to shut it off is to turn off the propane AND disconnect the house battery!

Quote
....
I would look for as large a self-regulated, one-wire Delco alternator as will fit in your LD.
Given that I don't need to (can't) run the fridge while driving, is there still a need for me to get a an alternor larger than 63Amp?  I noticed that LD put a 40Amp fuse between the isolator and the coach battery, so that kind of limits the current going into it.

Quote
Buy yourself a Krikit I V-belt tension gauge and learn how to use it.  Napa carries them.  Make sure to get the Krikit 1 V-belt model.
The previous owner left one.  I will double check the type.

Thanks,

Sam
 
Re: "True Ignition Source" for Battery Isolator and Relay
Reply #37 –
Yahoo Message Number: 99279
"the 10V reading was done at the 12V outlet inside the coach while the battery is still under load. At that point, I terminate all load, and the battery voltage recovers to about 11V after resting."
 A resting voltage of 11V is *way* below where batteries should ever be allowed to go. Even 12V is too low (see below).

"Actually, the battery is still 20% charged at 11.9V..."
 But battery manufacturers strongly recommend that you never discharge batteries below 50%! At 20%, you're causing permanent damage.

Unfortunately, a lead-acid battery isn't like a gas tank--you can't fill it up and then drive until it's empty. Every time you take your battery below 50% for more than an hour or so, you shorten its life.
 "Anyway, I understand that it's only harmful to the discharged battery if it's left in that state for a long time (several days)."

The kind of usage you describe will cause permanent damage in much less time than that. I hate to say it, Sam, but I agree with what others have said: if you treat batteries that way, you're going to find yourself replacing them every year instead of every five to seven years.
 It's clear that your single battery doesn't have the storage capacity you need, so your plan to replace it with two batteries is a good one.
But once you've done so, you'll still need to make sure you never go below 50%, or you'll shorten the lifespan and the storage capacity of those batteries in the same way you've already done to your current one.

Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"