Lazy Daze Owners' Group

Quote

Has anyone removed the front fiberglass cap of the cab-over

section to

Quote

repair dry rot?

Hi Jeff: I just did it on my 1979 22' TB and it's a pretty big job.  I started by gutting the inside to see how much wood needed to be replaced.
Lots!  Including first layer of cabover floor.  But the corner is the real problem.  I replaced the structural wood around the passenger side window and worked toward the corner.  Once there, you have to remove the fiberglass cap to install the curved wood.  Removing it is comparatively easy.  And I used West 2-part epoxy for almost all of the wood work.  But getting that cap back on correctly was almost impossible.  I don't know if it warped while off the rig or what, but it sure didn't want to fit.  I did get it back on with all new screws and good bedding but I ended up having to cover all the the seams with Eternabond to feel like the water would really stay out.  So it looks like Smokey is held together by tape.  But the rots gone and she doesn't leak.  I wouldn't do it to a newer rig.

I'd be glad to tell you anything more you'd like to know and I've got some construction pics.

Susan Fain, 1979 22'TB, "Smokey"

Susan,

Thank you for the information.  I will take you up on your offer of the construction pictures.  I have a 1991 22' MP. I have sealed all of the seams, but water is still getting in from an unknown location.

Approx how many hours did the job take you?  Also, did you have to replace any of the siding?

Thanks,

Jeff

Has anyone removed the front fiberglass cap of the cab-over section to repair dry rot?

the construction pictures.
Approx how many hours did the job take you?  Also, did you have to replace any of the siding?

Thanks,

Jeff Hi Jeff:

"I just uploaded 5 pics to an album called Smokey cabover. Job took from Dec. to Feb. or so.  Endless hours! No siding replaced but when the seam pulled apart I had to remove and re-install it. Keep in

I had nothing but wet sawdust where structural wood should be..

Susan

Your reconstruction photos of Smokey bring back bad memories.
I have helped rebuild the noses of two Class Cs, both Winnies. In both cases, leaking front windows were the cause.
During the first rebuild, the outer skin was removed. What a pain to deal with. The sealant made it very difficult to take the skin off without damage and a mess to reassemble.
When my brother's old Winnie rotted out, we disassembled it from the inside. All the framing in the front needed replacement or reinforcement. The work space was confined but it was still much faster to do it from the inside. It is easier to hide the evidence of major work on the interior.
A pneumatic nail gun and electric screwdriver will make the job much easier.

There are two types of LDs with front windows, ones which leak or have leaked and those that will leak. There is a very good reason why LD discontinued the front window.
The front window can leak around the frame and outer skin and also at the rubber seal between the glass and frame.
There have been write ups in the past about resealing both of these areas. I remember Steve (aq433) reporting on one or both.
The window frame can be removed and reinstalled using a sealing

The sealant tapes used today are much better than what were available 15-20 years ago.
I've used window sealing silicone with decent success on the front windows. The stuff is very thin and seeps into the gaps between the glass and rubber. Permatex is commonly available in auto parts

If I were to seal a window today, I would use 3M's product. I have seen it used at work on bus windows.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1775&itemType=PRODUCT

I have one more recommendation for all LD owners and that is to reseal all the roof seams with Eternabond. After finding problem spots in my three year old LD, I'm starting to think that doing it to a brand new LD might be not be a bad idea.

Larry