Yonder solar (more pics) February 17, 2005, 12:08:14 am Yahoo Message Number: 50869Hi all,I've added a few more photos in Photos, album Yonder/Solar.bumper
Re: Yonder solar (more pics) Reply #1 – February 17, 2005, 07:04:54 am Yahoo Message Number: 50871Quote from: John Morgan" Hi all,I've added a few more photos in Photos, album Yonder/Solar.Bumper,What a beautiful, clean installation. Great job!Tom Riley
Re: Yonder solar (more pics) Reply #2 – February 18, 2005, 12:10:33 am Yahoo Message Number: 50888Quote Hi all,I've added a few more photos in Photos, album Yonder/Solar.Bumper,What a beautiful, clean installation. Great job!Tom Riley Thanks for the kind words, Tom.bumper
Yonder solar (more pics) Reply #3 – February 28, 2005, 09:49:57 am Yahoo Message Number: 51275Hi all,Of interest only to those installing a "whole house inverter", I've added 3 more pictures to "Yonder - Solar" . . . they are the last 3 in this sub-album.Notes:I did this exhaust vent improvement when I noted that the Prosine muffin fan exhausts air out of the unit, pulling fresh air into vents at the forward end of the unit. Thus it would be good to exhaust this air to the outside of the storage compartment where the Prosine is mounted, rather than allowing it to heat up the compartment. An fresh air intake vent is located at the rear of the compartment.Not shown is a silicone rubber gasket between the inverter cooling exhaust vent and the vent duct tube. This gasket was made by first cutting a groove in edge of one end of a short length of 4" diameter ABS pipe. Then some silicone tubing was inserted into this groove to form an "O-ring" sort of gasket. A small drain hole is located at the bottom of the duct, at the inverter end, to insure any moisture that might enter the vent screen has a way to drain and won't enter the inverter. The aluminum vent deflector, shown in another photo, is probably unnecessary, but intended to also minimize water entry. I first used screws to mount the vent screen/s but then found a bead of caulk is a much simpler and more elegant method.As an aside, when routing wires through the refrig vent, it is necessary to remove and reinstall the thin aluminum screen LD installs. After a few times, this screen can start looking ragged at the bent edges. It's nothing more than aluminum gutter screen, available at Ace Hardware for a few bucks for a whole roll.all the best,bumper
Re: Yonder solar (more pics) Reply #4 – March 01, 2005, 07:15:35 pm Yahoo Message Number: 51344Bumper:When humans are safely cloned, your wife could make a tidy fortune by cloning you a couple of times then "renting" you out to other LD owners. Would like to put my name at the top of the list when that time comes.Anne
Re: Yonder solar (more pics) Reply #5 – April 07, 2005, 06:51:42 pm Yahoo Message Number: 52491Quote from: bumpersoar"Hi bumpersolar, I've looked at all of the pictures of your solar installation in the Photos section and it is a very impressive installation. I've been considering something similar for my 26.5 ft mid- bath Lazy Daze. I was wondering how you routed the cables from the refrigerator vent over through the cabinet over the stove to the area above the microwave where you mounted the charge controller. Is there enough clearance above or behind the refer to just drill a hole from the rear of the cabinet without doing something bad to the refer?Thanks for all the detailed pictures, rallen
Re: Yonder solar (more pics) Reply #6 – April 07, 2005, 10:21:01 pm Yahoo Message Number: 52502Quote QuoteHi bumpersolar, I've looked at all of the pictures of your solar installation in the Photos section and it is a Quotevery impressive installation. I've been considering something similar for my 26.5 ft mid- Quotebath Lazy Daze. I was wondering how you routed the cables from the refrigerator vent Quoteover through the cabinet over the stove to the area above the microwave where youQuotemounted the charge controller. Dick,The cables are actually run on the top of the cupboard shelf that's over the stove. A "false top" (for lack of better name) is then made out of thin plywood or particle board to cover the shelf and wiring (this makes the shelf hollow). To do this, first use a pencil to mark the top of the wood cleats at the top rear sides of the shelf. Remove screws mounting shelf and remove shelf. Now drill holes for wiring through the rear sides of the mounting cleats of the removed shelf - - as far to the rear of the shelf as you will later be able to position a drill motor to drill the corresponding holes through the cupboard side walls. I used 1/2" holes for this, 5 of them. 4 for main cable in/outs (4 ga cable needs pretty big holes) and 1 for signaling wire (Link-10 and Prosine remote). Place shelf back in position and mark through holes onto cupboard sides. Drill holes through cupboard walls on both sides. These holes will exit behind the fridge proper and in the void where you can reach them from above. On the microwave side, remove enough wood above each hole so that wiring can be bent upwards and secured above so as not to interfere with MW.I suggest spacing the holes at least 1/4" apart so as to maintain structural integrity of shelf cleats - - though I suspect this really isn't an issue. Don't be surprised or worried if you hit metal staples or similar when drilling the fridge side. Just don't expect a paddle bit to do the job (g).I used relatively heavy 4 ga welding cable for the solar panels, switching to 12 ga a few inches away from the panels, as recommended by Blue Sky. This is necessary for ease of wiring and because the heavier wire won't fit the wiring terminals.all the best,bumper
Re: Yonder solar (more pics) Reply #7 – April 08, 2005, 01:23:15 pm Yahoo Message Number: 52527Hey Bumper, How about some more of your free advice? I am installing a solar system I purchased from RV Solar in Arizona. I figured out how to mount and run cables all except to the batteries. I have a cable coming down the frige vent to the back of the reefer but there is still a 6 - 8 inch compart between the frige and battery compartment (mid-bath). Should I drill a hole down from the frige and up from the battery compartment or is there a better way? I have the system "patched" and it is performing quite well, just have to make it permanent. BTW, the equipment/parts/instructions/service from Arizona is worth recommending. Bruce Simpson
Re: Yonder solar (more pics) Reply #8 – April 09, 2005, 02:55:12 am Yahoo Message Number: 52546Should I drill a hole down from the frige and up from theQuotebattery compartment or is there a better way? I have the system "patched" and it is performing quite well, just have to make it permanent. BTW, the equipment/parts/instructions/service from Arizona is worth recommending. Bruce Simpson There isn't a better way. The wiring run should be as short as practicable. I recommed as follows.You will need to drill a hole down through the fridge compartment floor. The hole should be located near the outboard edge and probably near the factory installed through floor wire run. You may wish to drill the hole large enough to accept a short length of PVC pipe or plastic flex conduit to run the wires through and make a clean installation. Seal with polyurethane caulk.Drill two holes in the battery box side wall near the inboard (rear wall). It is easiest if you extend the battery tray and drill from the inside of the battery box. Route the wires and seal with polyurethane caulk. Since it may be difficult to caulk around the wire with a caulk gun, you can wet your finger (wear rubber or latex gloves of course) and place a dollup of caulk on your finger (the caulk will tend not to stick to the wet surface). Then place the caulk in position with your finger and smooth press into place - - repeat.bumper
Topic: Yonder solar (more pics) (Read 4 times)
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Topic: Yonder solar (more pics) (Read 4 times)
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