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Natchez revisited - Long and somewhat OT
Yahoo Message Number: 47713
Following the Natchez Trace thread has been interesting for me, and I thought to share some additional info. First however, allow me to issue the following warning:
 WARNING - THIS MESSAGE CONTAINS NOTHING WHATSOEVER HAVING TO DO WITH TIREMAN OR BORG!

Thank you. Now, with that out of the way, I will continue. Up until 15 years ago, my wife and I lived in Natchez, and our jobs were tour bus drivers. She ran local tours, picking up at motels and the Pilgrimage Garden Club Headquarters, and I drove a Greyhound bus, and ususally picked up passengers off the Riverboats that docked at Natchez Under The Hill. Natchez consists of 2 separate areas. The Under the Hill area today is only a remnant of what was, 150 years ago. Most of it washed away long before the Army Corps of Engineers tamed ol man river. On top of the hill is the old, original town, the best example of Antebellum Architecture in the south (over 550 pre civil war buildings still stand, over 100 of which are mansions, and around 50 of which are the very elegant "Tara" style structures).

Geological background: the area between Vicksburg Mississippi to south of Natchez on the east side of the Ol Miss, is composed of 200' tall bluffs of loess soil. These bluffs were formed at the end of the last ice age. When the glaciers marched south, the several hundred foot tall walls of ice compacted and ground very fine, rock and dirt under them. They ground much of it into a flour like consistency. As the glaciers receded, the glacier melt made the Miss very very wide, like somewhere around 50 miles wide. Prevailing winds, then as now, were west to east. These winds picked up this fine, flour like dirt and carried it with them. Most of it absorbed moisture crossing the wide river, and fell into the river and was carried to sea. The very lightest of it, however, made it across the river to fall on the eastern shore, building up into the 200' bluffs you see today. These bluffs contain no rock, but are solely dirt, packed very densely. As you travel the area, pay attention to the cuts where the road was made. Notice they are always vertical. Otherwise, they erode quickly and heavily.

As background, for any who may not know, the Natchez trace started out as a foot trail. River boat men would bring rafts of goods down the Ohio and Mississippi river to New Orleans where the goods would be sold, and the rafts broken up for timber (much of which is in use in older homes in New Orleans today). These river boat men would ride stern or sidewheelers back upriver as far as Natchez, where they would disembark at Natchez Under The Hill. Having a fistful of proceeds from their goods, they would have a good time. Gambling halls, saloons and brothels were everywhere under the hill. Natchez Under the Hill was a Hell town, second to none. Those that made it out of there with any money left, would walk the Trace back to Nashville, where they would scatter to their original homes. Problem was, there were many outlaws along the trace, and they knew anyone walking north stood a good chance of having money. No one will ever know how many people were killed along the trace, bodies never to be recovered.

The planters who dwelt atop the hill usually used the Natchez residence as a social home, far more elegant and spacious than their working home, which would be on the plantation, up or down river, in Mississippi or Louisiana. Small though it was, Natchez had first class theatrical and musical entertainment, brought in from around the world. At one time, more millionaires made their home in Natchez than in New York. Because it was bypassed by Sherman, Natchez remains the best place in the south to see Antebellum mansions. Many are owned by organizations and can be toured year round. Most are privately owned, but can still be see in one of the two annual Pilgrimages that Natchez hosts. The larger is in the spring, from March into April, the smaller in the fall, 2 weeks in October. If you are interested, these are highly recommended. The good thing about the Pilgrimages is that you can see private homes available no other way or time. Also, during Pilgrimage (which is the social season  in Natchez), there are many pageants, melodramas and special performances not available elsewhen. The bad thing is that there are way more people touring then.

Personal recommendations would be to see Stanton Hall, arguably the most elegant mansion still extant, and Longwood. Longwood is Octagonal, and was under construction when the news came of the war.
The workmen laid down their tools, which still remain in the same spots the were put in at that time. These two are organizationally owned, available to see any time. Other favorites are Dunlieth and Monmouth, both privately owned (Monmouth is a B&B; you sleep in slave quarters).

Everywhere in Natchez and on the trace, you can navigate your Lazy Daze (MLDC, or Mandantory Lazy Daze Content). Some of the streets are one way and narrow, but I regularly took a 40' Greyhound down them.
However, parking can be limited. My recommendation would be to have a tour bus pick you up where you are staying (I don't know if they goto campgrounds or not) or park at the Pilgrimage Garden Club headquarters and take the tour from there.
 Since I left, 15 years ago, many things have changed. Much of my info maybe out of date. They now have a Casino boat docked permanently Under the Hill. My favorite restaurant used to be the Cock of the Walk, under the Hill, where they fried EVERYTHING. I love the fried chicken strips (they also had Catfish) with french fries, and fried dill pickle chips. And the waiters would bring you Jalapeno cornbread, flipping it like a pancake as they brought it. If it is still open, you must try it! The actor, George Hamilton, used to own 3 homes in Natchez, a residence, plus 2 he bought for his brother and his mother.

Natchez Trivia

There used to be, up until around 1990 or 92, a still operating "house of ill repute". The lady who ran the place (handled the working ladies) was an Octogenarian named "Miss Nelly". She was well known around the town, and the garden club ladies would really liked to have gotten rid of her. Problem was, she had been there so long, she knew so much dirt on everyone, no one could touch her. When the ladies finally got a clean up campaign going, and the police were forced to arrest her, they took her entire bedroom set, wardrobe, rugs, drapes, etc, with her to the police station, so she would be comfortable. When the furor died away, they moved it all back to her house and quietly dropped the matter. Unfortunately, in the early 90s, a would be customer insisted on service at 4 in the morning.
When she told him to come back later, he set her house on fire and the died in the ensuing blaze.
 On US 61 about 2 miles south of Natchez is an outstanding example of Roadside America. (kitsch). It is a 4 story tall building called Mammy's Cupboard. Shaped like a black woman of the antebellum era, wearing wide hoop skirts, it was, when I left, a restaurant, where you dined in the hoop skirt portion. They actually put a curve in US 61, when they 4 laned it, to keep from tearing the Cupboard down.

Kudzu, aka, the vine that ate the South, was brought in to control erosion in this area. Having no natural enemies, and loving the climate, it grows, in season, 12-14" per day.

If any of you are fans of country comedian Jerry Clower, not far south of Natchez was where he was born and raised. Many of the stories he told, particularly the early ones, were based on actual events. The bar or joint, where Marcel"s Talking Chain Saw occured is just south and east of Natchez.

Just across the river a few miles from Natchez is the town of Vidalia, Louisiana, home of 3 first cousins who all attained fame in their own way. Taught my the same aunt to play piano, they all picked up her barrelhouse style and embroidered it into their own styles.
The 3 were Jerry Lee Lewis, Mickey Gilley, and Jimmy Swaggart.
 On the bluffs at the north end of Natchez is a National Cemetary. If you pass near it, say hi to my father. A veteran of WW2, Korea, and Viet Nam, he is buried there.

And last, the gazebo at the top of the drive to Natchez under the Hill was the scene of my proposal to my wife. And we got married on a Greyhound Bus (me in uniform, my boss, who runs the bus station in Natchez, driving), down in Natchez Under the Hill, overlooking the Mississippi river.

LINKS
 http://www.natchezpilgrimage.com/houses.htm

http://www.tylersterritory.com/travel/namerica/mid- south/miss/antebellum/stantonhall-01.html
 http://gorp.away.com/gorp/activity/byway/ms_natch.htm

http://www.state.tn.us/environment/parks/parks/NatchezTrace/

http://www.nps.gov/natr/
 Well, if you have made it this far, you are tired of me. Time for me to slink back into the shadows, clutching my 2 gallon glass of eggnog and my handful of rum balls (LOVE this time of year!!). Until the next time some topic lures me from the shadows, I shall skulk away.....

Lurker Wannabee
2000 TK
2014 Can-Am Spyder RT
Re: Natchez revisited - Long and somewhat OT
Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 47720
*** WOW! ***
 What a treasure trove of information! What a fantastic group this! :-)

Andy Baird
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"
Re: Natchez revisited - Long and somewhat OT
Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 47723
Wow!  Lee, that was FANTASTIC!  I love the combination of history and personal info, really well done.  I am down here in old mexico dreaming of Natches MS.  I've just added the area to my 'must see' list.  Thank you for that.

Jonna, in GDL
Re: Natchez revisited - Long and somewhat OT
Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 47729
Quote
Wow!  Lee, that was FANTASTIC!  I love the combination of history and personal info, really well done.  I am down here in old mexico dreaming of Natches MS.  I've just added the area to my 'must see' list.  Thank you for that.

Jonna, in GDL

Lee, I have to agree with Andy and Jonna. I love your account of Natchez. That was great travel writing. Hope you do more and submit it here. Please.
 I was in Natchez when I was 15 years old (sometime before the dawn of time) and I think I visited that old plantation you wrote about. I remember that the dome inside was almost in ruins and filled with nesting birds. I was afraid it would be fallen down by now. I'm hoping to get that way in the next year or so. Thanks for the wonderful writing.

Ilene
Re: [Life With A Lazy Daze RV] Re: Natchez revisited - Long and som
Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 47741
Lee, I'd sure like to know where else you've visited and whether you've written any other travelogs....would love to read them.  Do continue lurking (and posting)!
 Ever since Nevada Barr wrote one of her National Park mysteries about skulduggery on the "Trace," I've wanted to go there.  Your colorful anecdotes and descriptions just moved that destination closer to the top of my list.

Thank you for the details.

Lorna
2003 RB
Re: Natchez revisited - Long and somewhat OT
Reply #5 –
Yahoo Message Number: 47744
Lee,

My thanks also for posting your great Trace review. I've put that trip on my must do list for sure.

The Natinal Park Service site has a handy .pdf list of public and private campgrounds to be found along and near the trace. The URL is: http://data2.itc.nps.gov/parks/natr/ppdocuments/ACFEB8.doc

Sorry about the long URL but, for some reason, I was not able to create a Tiny URL for it. First time that's happened.

The following will be of interest for anyone planning a trip soon.

"**Natchez Trace Parkway Closure** Tupelo, MS: As a result of heavy rains and flooding, a section of the Natchez Trace Parkway has been washed out and is closed between Milepost 293.4 and 297.4. A recommended detour around this closed section of the Natchez Trace Parkway is as follows: Northbound traffic should exit the Natchez Trace Parkway at Milepost 293.4 onto Tishomingo Co. Rd. 1 North; take Co. Rd. 1 North to Highway 4 East; and re-enter the Natchez Trace Parkway near at Milepost 297.4.
 Southbound traffic should exit the Natchez Trace Parkway at Milepost 297.4 onto Highway 4 West; take Highway 4 West to Tishomingo Co. Rd.
1 South; follow Co. Rd. 1 South and re-enter the Natchez Trace Parkway at Milepost 293.4. This detour will remain in effect until further notice while this section is under repair. Please call 1-800- 305-7417 for more information."
 "The tentative date of May 18, 2005, has been set for the ceremonies celebrating the completion of the Natchez Trace Parkway."

NH Paul
Re: Natchez revisited - Long and somewhat OT
Reply #6 –
Yahoo Message Number: 47746
Why is it I always find an error immediately after posting??? Obviously the camping list is an MS Word .doc file and not .pdf.
Sorry.

Paul
 
Re: Natchez revisited - Long and somewhat OT
Reply #7 –
Yahoo Message Number: 47766
Quote
Following the Natchez Trace thread has been interesting for me, and I thought to share some additional info.
Lee,

WOW!  I just came from Natchez and the Trace and I want to go back, but with YOU and the MRS. as tour guides!

Of all the posts here, this sort of travel quide is by far my favorite.  I print out all of them.

FYI, Mammys Cupboard still offers great food and there is a dessert to die for, "Hummingbird Cake", that, as far as I'm concerned, should be on the state flag.

Linda