Ted's stuck 15A breaker December 08, 2004, 03:01:44 pm Yahoo Message Number: 47486Ted; Sometimes the first thermal overload of a breaker is it's last. The 12 volt converter that replaces and charges the house battery while you are plugged in will also not work. Engine power, or solar should still charge your battery. Do you have a small digital volt/ohm meter available? You can unplug from the pedestal and remove the steel faceplate that covers all of the breakers. A flashlight may reveal the problem right away; melted charred wires, loose connections etc. Plug back in to the shore power, but now you have to be careful, you have exposed hot wires in the area around the breakers. Place the voltmeter to AC, the wavy line, and hook the voltmeter black lead up to the white neutral lead (ground) or chassis. Touch the red voltmeter lead to the black incoming (hot) lead. The meter should indicate about 110v. The outgoing power black lead should read no voltage with the breaker off, and the identical voltage as the incoming with the breaker on. If you don't, then the breaker is bad and needs to be replaced. I'm not sure how old your breaker is but the transient voltages of breaking a max'ed out current circuit can easily fry the GFCI electronics. Remember to remove the shore power plug, and remove the bad breaker. Use a twist on wire nut to protect the bare copper wires from black vinyl tape goo, tape the wire nuts so they don't come off. Just the two black wires. Replace the front metal panel and you can plug back in safely. Take the bad breaker with you to the store, It makes it a lot easier to get the right one back in. Remember safety! Ron and Bluebelle, not too far away in San Diego.[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Topic: Ted's stuck 15A breaker (Read 4 times)
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Topic: Ted's stuck 15A breaker (Read 4 times)
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