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Topic: Repair to end caps (Read 489 times) previous topic - next topic - Topic derived from What's In Your Camera?
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Repair to end caps
Resealed my end caps at the Caravan Club outing in Desert Hot Springs and finally gave Paisley her first bath after getting home. Still more to do but pretty happy right now.
Will, with a 1999 MB, 7.3L PowerStroke
Re: Re: What's In Your Camera?
Reply #1 –
Nice, it's good to get the end caps sealed before the winter rains come, a leaking caps can let lot of water flow through the wood framing.
Your photos show roof seams that looks original. It's time to take care of this. The Factory recommended a roof reseal job every ten years.
Sealing the roof will mean you have addressed two of the three major causes of leaks in LDs.

The last major cause of leaks is the window frames, especially the rear window. The frames need resealing periodically.
The window frame sealant between the window frame and sheet aluminum siding shrinks as it ages, leaving concave surfaces that trap water or slows drainage, as in the case of the sloped rear window.
Most window leaks occur on the rear window,, with the multiple piece windows able to develop leaks along any of the rubber moldings.

The roof and windows can be DIY projects if you are able. Lots of experience here to guide you.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Re: What's In Your Camera?
Reply #2 –
Hey Larry,

The rig definitely had leaks from both rear window and the end caps with a decent bit of water damage. I had Dave (from the Caravan club)  check out the areas we could see because I have three nice sized holes in the rear panel that I dug out both electrolysis powder and a small amount of damaged wood. He and Ron both said they weren't "too" bad. If you zoom in on the pics with the taped end caps you can see 1 hole behind the ladder and the other 2 on the driver's side.

My plan was to leave the holes open for as long as I can to give the wood frame underneath as much time to dry as possible and then start the body work. What are your thoughts?

Regarding the roof seams, I was hoping to tackle them next summer, when I install the roof rack, but if that's not a good idea which of these options would you recommend:

1) clean the seams and tape with eternal bond
2) cover with lap sealant and do a Larry reseal next summer.

Also, I did reseal the rear window aluminum frames.
Will, with a 1999 MB, 7.3L PowerStroke
Re: Repair to end caps
Reply #3 –
Hi Will;  Once you repair the seams with EternaBond, Thats it! You can't remove it. (you can but it is extremely difficult, and not worth the effort).  That is why the factory didn't want people to use it, because once done it is very hard to work with. Once and Done.
    Clean up the lumps in the old sealant and cover with the new seam sealing tape.     RonB
 
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
Re: Repair to end caps
Reply #4 –
Hey Ron,

I am eventually planning to upgrade my solar and want to build a roof rack similar to the one Larry has on his, do you think I should go with a lap sealant until I'm ready to do the upgrades?
Will, with a 1999 MB, 7.3L PowerStroke
Re: Repair to end caps
Reply #5 –
I would suggest doing the roof seams now with Eternabond. Our roof rack does not touch the roof, all weight is supported by the side walls.
The object now is to stop any additional damage.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Repair to end caps
Reply #6 –
Quote
would suggest doing the roof seams now with Eternabond.

I second that. The Eternabond job is not difficult, doesn't take too long and is not real expensive. Then, no leaks.
jor

eternabond
roller
acetone
chalk line
As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
09 27' MB
10  Suby Forester
Re: Repair to end caps
Reply #7 –
Quote from: Larry W  - 
I would suggest doing the roof seams now with Eternabond. Our roof rack does not touch the roof, all weight is supported by the side walls.

Larry,
I need to go back to one of your posts but are you suggesting not removing any old caulking and just clean and put tape over what is there?  I'll be doing this on my LD at some point, I'm finally currently doing this on my Truck camper so I can feel good about selling it to the next guy.  The front cap seam of my truck camper is pretty good so I cleaned with acetone and laid down the 6" wide yesterday.  Even though current 5200 is pretty thick, its still burps a bubble every so often so 6" wide tape should take care of that.    Sorry, no after pix yet. 

Ramon
2000 Mid-Bath
2012 Lance 830 Truck Camper/2006 Cummins Dodge Ram Megacab
1985 Multi Plan - Donated to the American Breast Cancer Foundation.
Re: Repair to end caps
Reply #8 –
Quote from: Larry W  - 
I would suggest doing the roof seams now with Eternabond. Our roof rack does not touch the roof, all weight is supported by the side walls.
The object now is to stop any additional damage.

Larry

Hey Larry,

I don't think or can't find any additional damage besides what. I have mention on the rear end cap and rear window adjacent areas.

Regarding the roof rack, I was planning to use a piece of aluminum that wraps the end cap and screws in from the top and side. I read your thread about discussing with LD about the rack mounting to the sides. Would doing the rack the way I mention be a bad idea?
Will, with a 1999 MB, 7.3L PowerStroke
Re: Repair to end caps
Reply #9 –
Will,

You can plan whatever kind of roof rack you want but people are trying to tell you that your right roof seams are needing resealing NOW!  Resealing those seams should be job ONE. Preventing damage will be easier than repairing damage.

Steve K

Steve K

2003 Mid-bath
 
Re: Repair to end caps
Reply #10 –
Quote from: Dtbback  - 
Regarding the roof rack, I was planning to use a piece of aluminum that wraps the end cap and screws in from the top and side. I read your thread about discussing with LD about the rack mounting to the sides. Would doing the rack the way I mention be a bad idea?

The rack mount method I used resulted from a conversation with Ed Newton in 1995. He drew a diagram of the roof-to-wall junction and showed me how the rack's side mount should be attached so that the weight would be transferred directly into the wall and not into the roof.  He did not want any weight on top of the roof caps.
Years later, I asked Steve if he agreed and his answer was yes.

The side plates are 6" X 12" X 1/8" tempered aluminum plates that I found in a scrap metal yard. The Factory screw holes were used to mount the plates with 1-1/2" long stainless-steel round-head screws.
The plates were transferred from our 1983 LD to the 2003, with new, longer crossbars due to the wider coach.







Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Repair to end caps
Reply #11 –
Quote from: mrfixit454  - 
Larry,
I need to go back to one of your posts but are you suggesting not removing any old caulking and just clean and put tape over what is there?  I'll be doing this on my LD at some point, I'm finally currently doing this on my Truck camper so I can feel good about selling it to the next guy.  The front cap seam of my truck camper is pretty good so I cleaned with acetone and laid down the 6" wide yesterday.  Even though current 5200 is pretty thick, its still burps a bubble every so often so 6" wide tape should take care of that.   

I remove excessive Factory sealant, where it has spread sideways during curing. This allows Eternabond 4' tape to fully cover the seam, with a 1" overlap on each side.
Any bubbles in the factory sealant are cut open to release any rust or water. On the front corner of the roof seams, remove all the old sealant, it's an area where I have found all sorts of dirt and bubbles. I use a vibratory tool with a sharp blade edge to remove the old sealant, it cuts the stuff like butter. The ease of cutting may encourage you to remove more old sealant.
Roof seam reseal | Flickr

6" wide Eternabond can be a handful to handle, especially solo. It provides better coverage with greater chances of mucking it up. I snap chalk lines to help guide the tape into place. A helper is appreciated for all of this.

After prepping the old sealant, wash and dry the roof and wipe the surfaces to be sealed with acetone or lacquer thinner. I wear an organic filter while doing this. Apply polyurethane sealant to any holes in the old sealant or the screw heads have penetrated the surface.

Now is the time to apply the tape and then use a roller to work the adhesive into every nook and cranny.] use a heavy veneer roller for this task.
Have fun.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Repair to end caps
Reply #12 –
Quote from: Larry W  - 

Now is the time to apply the tape and then use a roller to work the adhesive into every nook and cranny.] use a heavy veneer roller for this task.
Have fun.

Larry


Thanks Larry, I better understand now.    I have all the tools you mentioned as well as that metal roller.  Used it on my camper the other day.  Yes, 6" was a little tricky but I managed on the camper.   On my MB, the seams appear never treated since original unless someone put Eternabond on it long ago but appears as Eternabond smooth side has worn off unless the factory taped it off to look like Eternabond in 2000.  For the most part, based on your description, I can leave most of the old material after prepped except for front corners you mentioned.  Thanks for the pix link, that is what I remembered seeing from before. 

Ramon
2000 Mid-Bath
2012 Lance 830 Truck Camper/2006 Cummins Dodge Ram Megacab
1985 Multi Plan - Donated to the American Breast Cancer Foundation.
Re: Repair to end caps
Reply #13 –
Quote from: Larry W  - 
The rack mount method I used resulted from a conversation with Ed Newton in 1995. He drew a diagram of the roof-to-wall junction and showed me how the rack's side mount should be attached so that the weight would be transferred directly into the wall and not into the roof.  He did not want any weight on top of the roof caps.
Years later, I asked Steve if he agreed and his answer was yes.

The side plates are 6" X 12" X 1/8" tempered aluminum plates that I found in a scrap metal yard. The Factory screw holes were used to mount the plates with 1-1/2" long stainless-steel round-head screws.
The plates were transferred from our 1983 LD to the 2003, with new, longer crossbars due to the wider coach.







Larry

Thank you! Looks like I'll return the 6" EternaBond and order the 4".
Will, with a 1999 MB, 7.3L PowerStroke
Re: Repair to end caps
Reply #14 –
Quote from: Dtbback  - 
Thank you! Looks like I'll return the 6" EternaBond and order the 4".

4" is much easier to use than the 6" The 6" provides a larger contact area on each side of the seam, it is useful for the roof's front, side-to-side, extra wide seam.
Make sure the old seam is no more than 2" wide and does not wander much. A minimum of 1" of Eternabond tape on each side of the old seam is needed. A competent helper can be useful when laying down the tape.
I forgot to include scuffing up the paint around the seam with a 3M Scotch-Brite pad to provide more tooth for the adhesive to grab onto, before washing and then wiping the area around the seam with solvent.
Eternabond tape is flexible, snapping chalk lines along each side wil aid greatly in laying down the tape and ending up with straight lines. No one else will see it but you will know.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Repair to end caps
Reply #15 –
Quote from: mrfixit454  - 
Yes, 6" was a little tricky but I managed on the camper.   On my MB, the seams appear never treated since original unless someone put Eternabond on it long ago but appears as Eternabond's smooth side has worn off unless the factory taped it off to look like Eternabond in 2000.  For the most part, based on your description, I can leave most of the old material after prepping except for the front corners you mentioned.

Very old Eternabond tape can have the white plastic surface covering release and peel off, exposing the adhesive/sealant beneath.
If the sealant is still intact and in good shape, another layer of Eternabond could be applied over it, after cleaning.
As a cheaper alternative, the sealant could be masked off and painted with white enamel.
You can remove the minimum of old sealant or go crazy, it's your choice.

Larry





Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze