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Non slip running boards?
Hello—newbie here.  My new to us 2007 LD has non-slip surface on the running boards that need to be refreshed.  I would like to coat them with adhesive and sprinkle aluminum oxide powder over the surface to renew the surface.   Anyone done something similar?  Could you share what adhesive you used?  Thank you for any and all input.
2007 'TK 24'

Re: Non slip running boards?
Reply #1
"My new to us 2007 LD has non-slip surface on the running boards..."

Caution!

No matter if you replace the original material or go with something of your own choosing, be particularly cautious when exiting or entering your LD from either side of the cab. That abrasive material on the running boards is dangerous. My daughter LazyBones2 can attest to that and what happened was not pretty!  :(
Steve S.
Lazy Bones & Cedar
2004 30'IB (Island Bed)
Yesterday is History, Tomorrow is a Mystery
Live for the day!

Re: Non slip running boards?
Reply #2
Thanks Lazy Bones—I have been reading about the bad experiences that folks have had with the running boards!
2007 'TK 24'

Re: Non slip running boards?
Reply #3
As Steve attested, the round edge on the older running boards was particularly treacherous if you try to slide out of the seat to the ground directly, bare legged! The abrasion will take a few weeks to heal!
    My running boards were looking shabby, and the granules of abrasive material were not well attached any longer. I taped them off with painters tape and brush painted them with semi-gloss black paint (two coats). I also painted the small patch at the ladder on the back bumper.  I find that the non slip traction was still ok. I don't deal with water all that often.
    Or total replacement. A heat gun, carefully used, should take the anti-slip material off easily. New material can be purchased and cut to fit the step. I wouldn't round over the edge of the step like LD did.
    In later years after my '99,  Lazy Daze re-designed the running board into a multiple strip design with a ribbed edge, without the non-skid right on the outside edge.    RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB

Re: Non slip running boards?
Reply #4
Quote
New material can be purchased and cut to fit the step.

Or if you want OEM, Todd may still have some. I bought a pair last year. Can't remember what I paid. Todd's email is:  Ldrvtodd@yahoo.com.

jor
09 27' MB
10  Suby Forester

Re: Non slip running boards?
Reply #5
My solution to the abrasive curved edge was to mask it off , clean well and brush on liquid Flex Seal and let it dry. So far it has done the trick for us. Lots of scraped legs before though. On my old Dodge truck, during restoration, I cleaned up the running boards and liberally painted them black then sprinkled anti slip grit onto the wet paint and it does a very good job.

Jon
1994 MB

Re: Non slip running boards?
Reply #6
Another solution for the edge is vinyl. I just cut a piece to match the countour. I do think, however, painting them is probably the best way to go. Here's a photo. Dirty now but clean up nicely.
jor
09 27' MB
10  Suby Forester

 
Re: Non slip running boards?
Reply #7
Our running boards have the original tape on them.
Our problem is the step edge closest to the box started dropping.
Looked under neath and saw the wood had rotted so the step dropped in that area.
Will have to get all the wood out tomorrow and see what my options are.
Our local welder can't get to it for a month to make a brace underneath, so will have to improvise.
Gotta do something as we are headed to the beach with the LD for a week at the end of the month.
Anybody else have this problem?


Re: Non slip running boards?
Reply #8
Our running boards have the original tape on them.
Our problem is the step edge closest to the box started dropping.
Looked underneath and saw the wood had rotted so the step dropped in that area.
Will have to get all the wood out tomorrow and see what my options are.
Our local welder can't get to it for a month to make a brace underneath, so will have to improvise.

The running boards are made of fiberglass with a wood core. The main part of the step has a plywood insert with a 2X2 running front to back.
The fiberglass consists of shredded fiberglass and resin that is sprayed over the wood. In many cases the fiberglass is shot on too thinly and remains porous, allowing water to enter and rot the wood core.
I fixed one case with a step-size piece of exterior plywood, bolted to the bottom of the step, using carriage bolts, to restore rigidity. Some steps require additional fiberglass and resin to make a satisfactory repair.

The steps are attached to the body at the front of the coach (rear part of the step) and to the sheet metal under the doors, there isn't a good spot to build a metal support from., it's best to repair the step.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze

Re: Non slip running boards?
Reply #9
Hi Bluebird Bob;  I had been tightening the bolts holding the driver side running board because of a widening gap between the aft end and the 'box' motorhome. It turned out the wood was rotting, and I was compressing it even more.  The original construction trapped water in a shallow depression.
   One problem is that the 'Box' flexes and moves in relation to the cab. So the repair had to be a little flexible, or it would tear out.
   So I removed as much as possible to get back to sound wood. A piece of the end cap broke off as a crack spread from the screw hole. Part of the wood inside the lower part of the end cap was also rotted.
   I got a premade steel (galvanized) angle (about 8"x8"x1" and  and mounted it up against a healthy piece of wood attached to the cab. I cut off enough of the other end to reach the wood behind the corner cap.  I bolted an end piece up with short wood screws.  A piece of 1x2 red oak soaked in Terminate', a copper napthanate wood preservative. Soaked about a week, then allowed to dry. Another steel angle about 1/2", and 4"x4" was attached to the oak piece. The other part of that angle was attached to healthy wood, higher up on the piece behind the corner cap. 
    After the repair, if I ever needed to remove my black tank I would have to remove this brace assembly. Used a nylock nut on a 1/4"-20 bolt. Sealed well with white EPDM sealer/caulk. Then spray painted flat black. Glued on the piece of corner cap, caulked the running board gap to the box and painted blue. The paint (acrylic, brush on) sample matches pretty well.
   I used hydraulic jacks, and a jackstand to apply upward pressure to hold it all together while I was working on it.
   I applied as much pressure gently to see it it would hold. So far it is holding up. It supports my weight (200#) and more. (can't find that pic, it's here somewhere!)   RonB    edit, pictures are almost exactly two years ago. 7-22-2022.
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB