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Topic: Solar Install (Read 310 times) previous topic - next topic
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Solar Install
I got some great advice from the experts here on the forum and watched a bunch of youtube videos and jumped in head first!

For my installation, I put four 200 watt panels on the roof in a serial-parallel configuration. I used 10 gauge wire to a combiner box and four gauge from the box to the solar controller (60 amp) and to the batteries. I used two gauge for the parallel connections on the three 100 ah batteries.

I installed all of the equipment and batteries below the refrigerator (27' MB). In order to have enough room, I did away with the battery box and the drawer under the frig. It's tight but everything fits and is accessible.

Everything is working fine!  :D 
jor

09 27' MB
10  Suby Forester
Re: Solar Install
Reply #1 –
Really nice work, Jor! 

What did you end up doing with regard to the DC-DC converter?  And, what were your lessons learned (for those of us that haven’t taken the plunge, yet)?

- Warren

Warren
2019 MB “Dream Catcher”
Jeep Wrangler JL
Re: Solar Install
Reply #2 –
Quote from: jor  - 
I installed all of the equipment and batteries below the refrigerator (27' MB). In order to have enough room, I did away with the battery box and the drawer under the frig. It's tight but everything fits and is accessible.

This is a nice install, with everything laid out logically and well-labeled. The wiring is correctly sized. Your project gets a thumbs-up.
I wish our 24' Front Lounge had as much room for installing new parts.

For those considering installing lithium batteries, the plastic battery box is not necessary and can be removed with no ill effects if more room is needed.
If the box is removed, the battery compartment door should be insulated and weather-sealed to prevent drafts

Larry

Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Solar Install
Reply #3 –
Quote
What did you end up doing with regard to the DC-DC converter?

I was over complicating the DC to DC but Ron set me straight. Here's what I did:

Charger: I installed a 60 amp Renogy charger. Mounted it an the frig wall behind the driver's seat. (It was a mistake buying a 60 amp as I have set it at 30 amp).
Wiring:
* The LD already has a 4 gauge positive wire running from the alternator through the Power Contactor (solenoid under the coolant overflow) and into the battery compartment. I used that wire. I removed the Contactor and replaced it with an ANL fuse and holder. I attached that positive wire to the charger. I grounded the charger on the factory chassis ground.
* I ran a 2 gauge wire from the charger through another ANL fuse and holder to my positive buss bar (same as battery) and another 2 gauge to the same chassis ground.

Power to charger to Limit Charging to 30 Amps: I ran a 14 gauge wire to fuse box under the dash.

Hopefully these photos will give you a better idea.
jor
09 27' MB
10  Suby Forester
Re: Solar Install
Reply #4 –
I mentioned in another post that I had upgraded my original 800 watts to 1000. I added another serial-parallel connection to the combiner box. I added fuses before the box as code requires current interrupters if you have three or more strings. This is what it looks like now and forevermore!  :D  I gotta say this was a fun project for sure!!!

You'll note the lack of symmetry. I had to keep the frig vent area clear as that was where I wanted to mount the combiner. You could line them up straight and pass the cables through aft of my location. More work but a nice tight look. Me? I'm planning on staying off the roof. I've always been admittedly fanatic about a clean and shiny roof but in my dotage I've decided that staying off the roof is in my best interest!!!
jor
09 27' MB
10  Suby Forester