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Topic: Mechanic recommendation for Inland Empire California (Read 424 times) previous topic - next topic
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Mechanic recommendation for Inland Empire California
I have a weird starting problem in my 2001 21.5TK. I have been trying to find a good mechanic in the Riverside CA area that can take a look at it. The problem is that it has to sit for a day or so before the problem will manifest itself, and most mechanics do not have the space to park the RV for a day or two while waiting. I have an appointment with the Ford Truck dealership to look at it, but they can't get it in until the end of November. Maybe a mobile mechanic with good electrical abilities to troubleshoot at my home. TIA.
2001 23.5 twin/king. Second owners, first time Lazy Dazer
Re: Mechanic recommendation for Inland Empire California
Reply #1 –
I sent you a message
2013 31' Silver Twin Bed
Semi-retired 6/21....
Re: Mechanic recommendation for Inland Empire California
Reply #2 –
What is the issue with starting your LD?
With a good description, we may be able to help.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Mechanic recommendation for Inland Empire California
Reply #3 –
Hi Tspin818;  I see in one of your posts that you have a Banks Power modification.  I seem to remember that there was a 'Starting issue' recall or something like that associated with the Banks addition.  You should call them if you can find their paperwork, and ask them.  They might have some experience  with similar questions.   RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
Re: Mechanic recommendation for Inland Empire California
Reply #4 –
Quote from: RonB  - 
Hi Tspin818;  I see in one of your posts that you have a Banks Power modification.  I seem to remember that there was a 'Starting issue' recall or something like that associated with the Banks addition.  You should call them if you can find their paperwork, and ask them.  They might have some experience with similar questions.   RonB

Several members here with early 2000ish LDs, equipped with the Banks kit,  had failures of the control module, usually causing the rig to stop running or not start. The cure was to remove the Banks module and return the computer to stock.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Mechanic recommendation for Inland Empire California
Reply #5 –
Quote from: Larry W  - 
What is the issue with starting your LD?
With a good description, we may be able to help.

Larry
When the RV has not been started for a few days or more, when I go to start it I have to leave the ignition key on for anywhere from 2 to 15 minutes before it will start. The engine cranks fine, it has plenty of fuel pressure, (tested), it just won't start. During the wait you can here a slight hissing noise inside of the engine compartment. As soon as the hissing sound stops I know that it will start. It has never failed to start, but once it took almost 2 hrs for the sound to go away. As soon as it did it started right up, and didn't have any more issues the rest of that day.
2001 23.5 twin/king. Second owners, first time Lazy Dazer
Re: Mechanic recommendation for Inland Empire California
Reply #6 –
Hi TSpin818;  Your rig is a gasoline engine right?  I'd find whatever that thing is that is hissing! There is a pressure relief valve that bypasses fuel from the regulator back to the fuel tank. It also prevents vapor lock.  Maybe it is stuck too far open and doesn't allow for enough fuel pressure to get the injectors started.  RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
 
Re: Mechanic recommendation for Inland Empire California
Reply #7 –
Quote from: RonB  - 
Hi TSpin818;  Your rig is a gasoline engine right?  I'd find whatever that thing is that is hissing! There is a pressure relief valve that bypasses fuel from the regulator back to the fuel tank. It also prevents vapor lock.  Maybe it is stuck too far open and doesn't allow for enough fuel pressure to get the injectors started.  RonB


The pressure regulator is the only thing I can think of that might make a hissing noise, if so, there is a good chance the regulator has failed or is failing.
It isn't hard to change if you have a snap-ring pliers kit, it has an inside snap-ring holding the regulator in the housing. It's located on the rear of the engine on the fuel rail, accessible after removing the doghouse.
Not knowing the LD's age, I can't list a part number.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Mechanic recommendation for Inland Empire California
Reply #8 –
Updated TSPIN818's profile. Just two years newer than my '99 'TK.  On an E350 chassis Ford. About 93,000 miles.   RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
Re: Mechanic recommendation for Inland Empire California
Reply #9 –
Rock Auto shows this fuel pressure regulator for a 2001 E350 V10.
2001 FORD E-350 6.8L V10 Fuel Injection Pressure Regulator | RockAuto

The regulator's external port connects a hose that goes to an intake manifold vacuum port. The varying vacuum regulates the fuel pressure, providing greater fuel pressure when the engine is under a heavy load.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Mechanic recommendation for Inland Empire California
Reply #10 –
Quote from: Larry W  - 


The pressure regulator is the only thing I can think of that might make a hissing noise, if so, there is a good chance the regulator has failed or is failing.
It isn't hard to change if you have a snap-ring pliers kit, it has an inside snap-ring holding the regulator in the housing. It's located on the rear of the engine on the fuel rail, accessible after removing the doghouse.
Not knowing the LD's age, I can't list a part number.

Larry
Thank you for that recommendation. When testing the fuel pressure we also replaced the pressure regulator at the same time. It did not help. I also should have mentioned that there is an audible click right when the hissing stops from somewhere in the left side of engine compartment. Almost like a solenoid sound.
2001 23.5 twin/king. Second owners, first time Lazy Dazer
Re: Mechanic recommendation for Inland Empire California
Reply #11 –

I assume the mechanic has verified the spark at each of the ten coils. If not, an ignition tester can be used to check individual coils for a spark, whjile the engine is being cranked.
Amazon.com: Calterm 66331 Tru-Spark Ignition Firing LED Indicator, Adjustable...

The A/C accumulator will bleed off pressure through the expansion valve, making a hissing sound for a few moments when the engine is shut off, you will often hear a click of the pressure switch that reengages the compressor when cold is called for.
I would verify the A/C compressor is not engaged when trying to start the engine,
The strain of starting the compressor, on top of starting the engine, may demand too much power to either spin the engine fast enough or causes the voltage to drop too low. The compressor's electric clutch can be disconnected at the compressor if this is found.

Please let us know what is found.
Larry

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Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Mechanic recommendation for Inland Empire California
Reply #12 –
There is a Idle Air Control  (IAC)  valve near the back of the intake manifold at the top that opens to let air in and acts like a choke when the engine is cold.  I had a hard start (no start) situation at about 2-3 years when a cold engine was hard to start. The dealer didn't try to find the problem, so I had to fix it myself. (was still under warranty).  It just needed cleaning with Berryman B12.  I ran a hose out to under the hood  so I could squirt some fluid in there. Haven't had to do it the last 15 years.
    I could imagine it making a 'hissing noise'.  It is a servo valve and normally is partly open at idle to control the mixture and RPM.  Maybe it is sticking?   Using the accelerator pedal while starting, to increase air flow, might get it to run when you are having this 'no start' problem.  That would confirm this valve being the problem.
     https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1078114-iac-valve-for-v10.html     
     With the doghouse engine cover off, it was easy to reach sitting, in the passenger seat.     RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
Re: Mechanic recommendation for Inland Empire California
Reply #13 –
Quote from: RonB  - 
There is an Idle Air Control  (IAC)  valve near the back of the intake manifold at the top that opens to let air in and acts like a choke when the engine is cold.  I had a hard start (no start) situation at about 2-3 years when a cold engine was hard to start.
    I could imagine it making a 'hissing noise'.  It is a servo valve and normally is partly open at idle to control the mixture and RPM.  Maybe it is sticking?   Using the accelerator pedal while starting, to increase air flow, might get it to run when you are having this 'no start' problem.  That would confirm this valve being the problem.
     https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1078114-iac-valve-for-v10.html     
     With the doghouse engine cover off, it was easy to reach sitting, in the passenger seat.     RonB

The IAC makes a hissing noise ONLY when the engine is running and is cold. The IAC lets air bypass the throttle body when the engine is warming up, the extra air allows the engine to idle faster during this period. Once warm the IAC either does not allow any air to bypass or a slight amount to maintain the specified idle, it is controlled by the ECM (engine control module).
More Information for MOTORCRAFT CX1870

I'm at a loss to come up with any other possibilities, 21 years of V-10 ownership and maintenance and I'm still clueless (my wife tells me this all the time).

Larry



Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Mechanic recommendation for Inland Empire California
Reply #14 –
Quote from: Larry W  - 
Several members here with early 2000ish LDs, equipped with the Banks kit,  had failures of the control module, usually causing the rig to stop running or not start. The cure was to remove the Banks module and return the computer to stock.

Larry
I had a long conversation with the tech at Banks Engineering. Although he did not think the powerpack could be causing this particular problem he did give me the information to take it out of the loop to see if it was causing a problem. It is a little more difficult to just remove the module and return computer to stock. When the Banks is installed they move the O2 sensor, and when you disconnect the Banks it causes the computer to give O2 error codes. It won't effect how the engine runs I was told, but the error codes would have to be constantly reset unless you move the O2 sensor back to it's original position. It can also affect getting the vehicle smog certificate here in California. I will let the group know what I find out after running the tests the Banks tech gave me.
2001 23.5 twin/king. Second owners, first time Lazy Dazer
Re: Mechanic recommendation for Inland Empire California
Reply #15 –
Please let us know what you find pertaining to the hissing.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Mechanic recommendation for Inland Empire California
Reply #16 –
Just wanted to update this post. So far, it looks like it was the Banks that was causing the starting problem. The tech at my local Ford dealership believes that the Banks OttoMind chip that was installed on the PCM was causing it to lose all communication and not allowing the engine to spark. They removed the chip from the PCM and I have not had any starting issues since. They also checked and determined that the O2 sensor had not been repositioned, so that should not give any error codes, and it has not. Removing the chip just put the engine tune back to stock. So far she starts every time!
2001 23.5 twin/king. Second owners, first time Lazy Dazer