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Topic: Dead Short (Read 435 times) previous topic - next topic
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Re: Dead Short
Reply #25
Steve K., that was a great suggestion!  I turned off all the breakers in the coach, then plugged the RV in and turned on the breakers one by one.  I was also using the surge protector. Initially, everything worked for a brief time, then the circuit tripped. So I think I’ve isolated the problem to either the surge protector or converter. My thinking is that, although the converter CB was on, perhaps it didn’t run initially, then it kicked on and tripped the circuit.

The good part about getting Mike Coachman’s converter is that it is very quiet. The bad part is that it’s so quiet I can’t tell when it’s “converting!”  Is there a way to tell?  BTW, I have been using Mike’s converter with no issues to date.

So right now, the coach is plugged into the garage circuit, NOT using the surge protector. All the AC breakers in the coach are energized and all seems normal.  I have not tried to run the air conditioner, though.

Thank for your suggestion!
Greg & Victoria
2017 Mid-Bath  “Nocona” towing a manual 2015 Forester
Previously a 1985 TK
SKP #61264

 
Re: Dead Short
Reply #26
The good part about getting Mike Coachman’s converter is that it is very quiet. The bad part is that it’s so quiet I can’t tell when it’s “converting!”  Is there a way to tell?  BTW, I have been using Mike’s converter with no issues to date.

Does your surge protector have a LED readout that shows amperage? If it does, it should show a change when the converter is switched on or off.
Another way to determine if the converter is working is to turn several 12-volt appliances and/or lights on and then turn the battery switch to the 'off' position and pull the solar fuse. If the lights still are bright, the converter is working

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze

Re: Dead Short
Reply #27
Does your surge protector have a LED readout that shows amperage? If it does, it should show a change when the converter is switched on or off.
Another way to determine if the converter is working is to turn several 12-volt appliances and/or lights on and then turn the battery switch to the 'off' position and pull the solar fuse. If the lights still are bright, the converter is working

Unfortunately, it’s the portable Progressive Industries unit and does not display amps.  But I’ll try the other method that you mentioned. Hoping to get a better hard-wired surge protector installed in the future. Thanks, Larry!

EDIT: Pulled the solar fuse and disconnected coach batteries and coach lights are bright so it appears converter is working. I suspect the portable EMS now (not using it at the moment). Getting over 13.8V at the DC fuse board.
Greg & Victoria
2017 Mid-Bath  “Nocona” towing a manual 2015 Forester
Previously a 1985 TK
SKP #61264

Re: Dead Short
Reply #28
"Unfortunately, it’s the portable Progressive Industries unit and does not display amps."

Greg, it sounds as if you have PI's SSP-30X or SSP-30XL, which just have three LEDs. If you end up replacing it, consider the EMS-PT30X model, which shows voltage, current, line frequency, and any error codes (current and most recent) in rotation on its LED display.

Better still, get the hardwired EMS-HW30C version, which shows the same information on a small wired remote display module that can be mounted anywhere you like. That way it can't be stolen and you can't forget and leave it behind. (Also, it's one less 30 amp plug/socket connection to possibly go bad.)
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"

Re: Dead Short
Reply #29
Thanks, Andy. Looking at the replacement cost of the portable vs. the cost of the hardwired version ($30 more on Amazon),  it’s a no-brainer to order the hardwired unit so I did.  I’m sure I’ll be back with installation questions once received!   :D
Greg & Victoria
2017 Mid-Bath  “Nocona” towing a manual 2015 Forester
Previously a 1985 TK
SKP #61264

Re: Dead Short
Reply #30
Hi Greg,

I’ve been following this — for educational value in case I run into a similar issue. So glad you got this figured out!

I went with a portable EMS for this very issue. Don’t want to be in a jam on a trip if the EMS fails, as would be the case with one permanently installed.

Our friends, who we camp with, also just had a failure with their 2-month-old Progressive EMS (portable). The LCD display on their unit isn’t hinting at a problem — there’s just no power at the EMS outlet.

While the experience of folks here (with way more knowledge than me) have proven that PD is a reliable product, I’d still be concerned about the possibility of failure — even though I don’t think I’ve heard of a failure of one of the hardwired versions, only the portable ones.

So, while I strongly considered hardwired, I ultimately decided on carrying a portable EMS with a comparatively far less expensive surge protector to serve as my backup in case of EMS failure.

Though I definitely agree that hardwired is more convenient (during set up and take down, and not needing to lock it up at the post in a feeble attempt at inconveniencing a thief).
Jason

2003 Rear Bath
"Razor Crest"
Our first RV, purchased from the original owner 01/2022

Re: Dead Short
Reply #31

Like Jason, after considering the options, I decided on a portable EMS device.  I chose the SouthWire 34930, after weighing input from this community on SouthWire versus Progressive Industries.  I have been happy with my decision on both counts.  The device has performed well over the past 3.5 years, alerting/protecting my coach’s electrical system to numerous hazardous campground power conditions (also a part of the PI unit you bought, Greg).  I particularly like the LED display on the device: 1) it shows campground power faults/hazards while I am still outside by the power pole during set-up and 2) shows the amp hour load being drawn by the coach.

I noticed that at $200, the device now costs quite a bit less than what I paid when I bought it.

Amazon.com: Southwire 34930 Surge Guard 30A - Full Protection Portable with...

As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
Warren
2019 MB “Dream Catcher”
Jeep Wrangler JL

Re: Dead Short
Reply #32
Actually, I feel a bit like a hypocrite recommending a hardwired EMS, because I'm using a portable EMS-PT30X right now. I had a hardwired EMS-HW30C in my Lazy Daze, but when I bought my first Airstream, things worked out so that I had to head out in a hurry. I wanted protection, so I picked up the portable version, and have been using it ever since--too lazy to buy and install the hardwired model, even though I believe that's the best way to go. So do as I say, not as I do! 😉
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"

Re: Dead Short
Reply #33
So was plugged in overnight (no EMS) with no problems.  As a final test, I reintroduced the portable EMS into the equation. It immediately killed power to the coach.  After a minute or two, my garage GFCI circuit tripped.
Greg & Victoria
2017 Mid-Bath  “Nocona” towing a manual 2015 Forester
Previously a 1985 TK
SKP #61264