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Installed USB Charger Outlets

When I first took possession of my LD I noticed right away the lack of USB charger ports in the coach area.  I could plug in a cigarette-lighter type adapter into the 12v receptacle over the dinette or plug a power brick into one of the AC outlets when I was on shore power, but otherwise I was limited to just the cab USB ports.  So… I looked on Amazon and found these Dual Port, Surface Mounted USB Charger Outlets.  They take in 12v coach power and output the 5v needed to charge any USB device.  These are not quick-charge converters that will fast charge certain USB devices, but at 2.4 amps per port, they will charge any USB device I have… iPhone, iPad, Android Tablet, e-reader, Garmin inReach and electric shaver.  They use hardly any battery current when not actually charging, but they do have a small blue light that is always on.  The blue light doesn’t bother me but if it did, then a black Sharpie or some black model airplane paint could cover it up.

I originally installed 2 chargers, one above the dinette and one above the rear passenger side couch.  I was so impressed with them that I installed 2 more.  One on the rear driver’s side and one in the bathroom for my electric shaver.  In each case I tapped into the LED light fixture mounted under the cabinet and routed the wires in the dead space between the cabinet floor and the cabinet bottom.  By mounting the chargers near the LED lights, I was able to run the wires without lifting any of the cabinet floors.

Parts needed: USB Charger, 16 gauge twin lead, 22-16 gauge butt-splice connectors, 16-14 gauge quick-splice connectors and a wire stripper/crimper tool.

Lessons learned: On the longer cabinets there’s a wooden brace midway to the length and under the cabinet floor.  This brace is to secure the cabinet floor in place but it will also block any wires running between the USB charger and the LED light fixture.  So, on the longer cabinets, you’ll have to mount the USB charger on the same cabinet half that the LED light fixture is mounted.

Before drilling into the cabinet, figure out where you want to mount the USB charger and remove the 8 screws holding the LED fixture in place.  The fixture’s 2 clear covers push outwards about 3/8 inch, then down and off exposing the 8 mounting screws.  Push a stiff piece of wire up through the LED fixture cabinet hole and over to where you want to mount the USB charger.  See if there is any blockage first before drilling a 1/2 inch hole for the USB charger wires.

Make sure you use a good crimping tool.  The cheap ones make poor crimp connections and they’ll eventually come apart.  The tool I use is a  Cambridge (model 86260) 9 inch stripper/crimper that I got sometime ago at Tractor Supply.  It looks exactly like the Dorman 9 inch stripper/crimper I linked to earlier.  I think I paid around $15 for it.

Cut off the tinned portion of the charger wires and strip off 3/16 inch of new un-tinned wire.  Crimping on tinned wire makes for a lousy connection.  Now crimp on some 16 gauge twin lead to the charger wires using the butt-splice connectors and wrap the splice connectors and wires with some electrical tape.  The tape makes for a good strain relief and the connections are less likely to come apart.  Use the stiff wire to fish from the charger hole to the light fixture hole.  Tie or tape on some string or cord and pull it back through the charger hole.  Tie or tape on the twin lead and pull it through the light fixture hole.  Now you can use pliers to crimp on the quick-splice connectors.  Follow the wire color coding mentioned next.

Be aware of the color coding of the wires.  The LED light fixture uses Black for positive (+) and White for negative (-).  The USB charger uses Red for positive (+) and Black for negative (-).  The wiring goes positive-to-positive and negative-to-negative. So Black LED to Red USB and White LED to Black USB.

That’s it… I think it turned out great and I’m really happy with the results.  Let me know what you think.

- John

As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
Fulltimer with a 2021 MId-Bath “Babe”, 1996 Cherokee “Scout” and “Bandit” the wonder dog 🐶


Re: Installed USB Charger Outlets
Reply #2
John,

Great idea, one I think I’m going to tackle this summer. Thanks for one of the best “how-to” write-ups I’ve seen in a long time!

Jason
Jason

2003 Rear Bath
"Razor Crest"
Our first RV, purchased from the original owner 01/2022

Re: Installed USB Charger Outlets
Reply #3
Great job, John!  Thanks for sharing!
Greg & Victoria
2017 Mid-Bath  “Nocona” towing a manual 2015 Forester
Previously a 1985 TK
SKP #61264

Re: Installed USB Charger Outlets
Reply #4
Excellent documentation and photos!
jor
09 27' MB
10  Suby Forester

Re: Installed USB Charger Outlets
Reply #5
With John’s detailed instructions on how he installed the USB chargers, he inspired me to give it a try even with my lack of experience in working on electrical systems.  I purchased all the recommended items and followed the instructions verbatim.  I was doing well until I went to hook up power.  For some reason the electrons weren’t making it to the charger.  After some PM’s and phone calls to John, I was able to figure out that the power issue was with the quick-splice connectors. Apparently, I was not closing them properly.

The first charger took about 4 hours to collect everything and figure out what I was doing wrong.  Just finished the second one which took under an hour.  Both are in the rear lounge above the two couches. (there is a third one which I still need to decide the location for).  Like John, I’m very satisfied with the result.  Thanks to John for sharing his time and expertise with me!
Greg & Victoria
2017 Mid-Bath  “Nocona” towing a manual 2015 Forester
Previously a 1985 TK
SKP #61264

Re: Installed USB Charger Outlets
Reply #6
Greg,

I’m happy it worked out for you 😊

- John
Fulltimer with a 2021 MId-Bath “Babe”, 1996 Cherokee “Scout” and “Bandit” the wonder dog 🐶

Re: Installed USB Charger Outlets
Reply #7
A suggestion about quick splice connectors. The 3M Scotchlok connectors (of which the Baomain connectors that John mentioned are knockoffs) are popular, but over the years have proven to be somewhat prone to failure... and as Greg found, they're easy to mis-install.

As an alternative, I recommend Wago connectors (pronounced "woggo", and yeah, I know it sounds funny). There's a short video that shows how they work. You really only need to watch the first minute to know what I'm talking about here.

Wago connectors have a number of advantages over Scotchloks. For one thing, when you push down the locking lever on a Wago connector and it snaps into place, you know beyond a doubt that you have a good, solid connection. But unlike a Scotchlok, you can flip those levers back up, remove the wires, and reuse a Wago connector any number of times, something that's not possible with Scotchloks. Being able to undo and redo the Wago connection is a big plus, especially when adding wiring or when troubleshooting. And there's a deeply recessed test point on the Wago connector that lets you safely check voltage if necessary.

While a Scotchlok can only be used to add a wire to an existing wire, Wagos come in two, three, and five-place versions, so you can electrically connect as many as five wires. The two-place Wago is a good substitute for a wire nut or butt splice, although in a situation where a weatherproof connection is needed, an FTZ Crimp'n'Seal butt splice is the best solution, because its shrinkable coating provides a gas-tight, watertight seal.

It's not all pluses. Whereas a Scotchlok connector offers a quick and dirty way of adding another wire to an existing wire, as when tapping an existing line to add a light, a 12 V outlet, or a USB charger port, and only requires you to strip the new wire, Wago connectors require you to strip all wires going into the connector. That means when adding a wire to an existing run, you'll need to cut the existing wire and then strip both of its cut ends, as well as the new wire, back about 3/8". (On the other hand, when using a Wago instead of a wire nut, you'd be stripping both wires anyway--and a Wago is a lot easier to apply than a wire nut, and MUCH less likely to come undone!)

To me, stripping a couple of wires is a minor inconvenience, and the versatility and above all, reliability of Wago connectors makes it more than worthwhile. I've seen a lot of Scotchlok installations, and I've seen some fail. But my entire Airstream was wired with Wagos, and despite Airstream's generally sloppy workmanship, they all look and perform perfectly.
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"

Re: Installed USB Charger Outlets
Reply #8
Thanks, Andy.  I've heard good things about the WAGO connectors so just purchased a small set to try them out for some other upcoming projects. 
Greg & Victoria
2017 Mid-Bath  “Nocona” towing a manual 2015 Forester
Previously a 1985 TK
SKP #61264

Re: Installed USB Charger Outlets
Reply #9
Wow, Andy! I’ve never heard of the wago. That’s great stuff to pass along. It’s easy to have have problems with crimp on connectors (how would I know…. ahem). That one looks like quality and easy to work with.

Chris
Chris and Penelope
2001 Rear Kitchen

Re: Installed USB Charger Outlets
Reply #10
I had forgotten about Wago connectors, timely, so I don’t buy a crimper.

Thanks!
Dave

2017 TK

Re: Installed USB Charger Outlets
Reply #11
I have been using the Wago 2,3, & 4 slot connectors for several automotive & home wiring projects for some time now. They work best on solid conductor wires and Wago advise against using braided wires. The best test is to try pulling on the locked down wire for firmness. They are not designed for use in weather exposed areas, however I have used them in outside weather proof junction boxes with no issues. I found them very handy when installing outside LED flood lights at our RV campsite (see photos).  I had an issue with one of the lights and had to remove it and later put it back. The wago connectors made this an easy task. Here the four slot connectors worked well for routing one incoming power wire to three outgoing wires to the lights (X-3). Easy work!
2010 RB "Monty"  & currently: 2021 RB "Villa Verde"
2004 Born Free 26'
1998 Beaver Patriot 33'
1992 Barth Breakaway 28'
1982 Fleetwood Jamboree 23'
1982 Dolphin/Toyota 22'

Re: Installed USB Charger Outlets
Reply #12

Nice, Mike, you even have picnic tables at your RV site!

The Wago kit I just purchased is supposedly ok for a variety of wire types.  I think these are their newest style:

WAGO 221 Lever-Nuts 28pc Wire Connector Assortment Pocket Pack - - Amazon.com

As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
Greg & Victoria
2017 Mid-Bath  “Nocona” towing a manual 2015 Forester
Previously a 1985 TK
SKP #61264

 
Re: Installed USB Charger Outlets
Reply #13
This is neat!! I've been looking into finding a USB connection I could add to the tube light fixture but haven't found something easy to add to it. This solution might just be the great alternative
1995 23.5 Rear Lounge

Re: Installed USB Charger Outlets
Reply #14
"They work best on solid conductor wires and Wago advise against using braided wires"

I'm not sure what is meant by braided wires. Wago's product page for the 221 series says "WAGO's 221 Series Splicing Connectors easily, quickly and safely connect solid, stranded and fine-stranded conductors ranging from 24–10 AWG." Where did you see this advice from Wago, and what kind of braided wires did they have in mind?
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"

Re: Installed USB Charger Outlets
Reply #15
This is neat!! I've been looking into finding a USB connection I could add to the tube light fixture but haven't found something easy to add to it. This solution might just be the great alternative

Easy was important to me.  Trust me, if I can do it, anyone can!
Greg & Victoria
2017 Mid-Bath  “Nocona” towing a manual 2015 Forester
Previously a 1985 TK
SKP #61264

Re: Installed USB Charger Outlets
Reply #16
I meant to say stranded instead of braided. One time I used used some stranded and it did pull out. Maybe I was doing something wrong 😑
2010 RB "Monty"  & currently: 2021 RB "Villa Verde"
2004 Born Free 26'
1998 Beaver Patriot 33'
1992 Barth Breakaway 28'
1982 Fleetwood Jamboree 23'
1982 Dolphin/Toyota 22'

Re: Installed USB Charger Outlets
Reply #17

May I add one more tip -- Forcepts
Always forcep the loose wire.   Trust me when I say nothing is more fun then trying to dig out a wire that slipped into a inside wall.

glen
ex military aviation electrician. 

As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
personal fine art photo stuff
TF Mack | Flickr
It's all good .......
2014 Twin King

Re: Installed USB Charger Outlets
Reply #18

Good tip, Glen. Especially with Lazy Daze, because they don't ever seem to have heard of "service loops," so there's rarely much slack in their wiring. A good set of locking forceps/hemostats can save you from a lot of cursing. And if you do lose something in a crevice, a grabber tool is indispensable.

As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"

Re: Installed USB Charger Outlets
Reply #19
Good tip, Glen. Especially with Lazy Daze, because they don't ever seem to have heard of "service loops," so there's rarely much slack in their wiring. A good set of locking forceps/hemostats can save you from a lot of cursing.

If changing the rear incandescent tail lights to LEDs, locking forceps are necessary to grab the wiring before cutting the wiring free of the old light. LD provides no service loop or extra wire.
It's awful to have the wiring sucked back into the wall without a way of retrieving it. BTDT

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze