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Re: Starlink Install
Reply #52 –
since in the RV world, dish is not installed permanently (I am sure mobile dish will be available in future) there will be work involved in moving the dish and running the wires etc. etc. for each setup and teardown. For our style of travelling it will be on average of 2.5 days (need to learn to slow down). In this rapid setup and teardown cycle setup need to be as simple as possible.  I am planning to use the stand which come with the kit but if height become an issue,  I can easily find heavy duty tripod from any hardware store while on the road which pose another issue of storing more stuff.

as for power consumption I did not think about it before ordering the kit but I doubt it would have stopped me .....
Re: Starlink Install
Reply #53 –
Just watched a class C with the Starlink square antenna permanently mounted on the roof with the Starlink provided tripod. It was behind the A/C for a little wind break. I won’t do that but each to his own.

Power consumption adds up at 4 amps. I find with sharing with friends I need to run it 24/7. With my dual lead acid/lithium battery system I can start the generator without bringing down Starlink as the generator runs off the lead acid battery.

With a normal battery system starting the generator will turn Starlink off.
Harry 2006RB
Re: Starlink Install
Reply #54 –
if simple solution I have for installation does not work I like the picture Larry W shared about telescopic pole clamped with the ladder, I think I should get Startlink pipe connector just in case, rest of the hardware is easily available ... lets see if aspirin works before we can think about surgery  ... other idea may be to get Startlink short wall mount and somehow screw it to the highest point on the ladder or perhaps attach wall mount on a clamp which can screw on the ladder, not sure what ladder clamps are available. Many options beside putting the dish on the roof. For the folks who have not seen Starlink accessories here is the link Starlink

Power consumption information is informative hope 4amp at 12V and not 120V :-) with 12V, power consumption is 48W. Let say we use the system for 3 hrs, we we will need around 150Wh/day (will be downloading lot of stuff for off load study or entertainment). I do have couple of 500W small lithium battery bank, I use one for bipap machine and second can be used for Starlink. Battery bank will last for 3 days and if I use the portable solar panels with the battery bank we can extend the use for 4-5 days I also have small inverter which I can use with the coach battery, our coach battery hardly goes below 90%.  In last 18 months of motorhome I never have to run the generator to charge battery but I was surprised that generator put only about 20-25 amp in battery and in similar condition alternator put in 10 amp more .... I need to find ways to charge the battery bank using the alternator when RV is moving, it has c type of connector which can takes 60W input for charging and guess 5amp will not trigger any fuse breaker.

Reading posts here and as soon as I found out that roaming is turned on, I knew it is time to try .... we will be on cruise for few months early next year for South America and Antartia and dish is coming with me ... I know cruise folks will have lot of issues with it but I do not have to announce. I also noticed that not all the countries are not turned on but I don't know how Starlink can stop a legit dish accessing to passing by satellite.

Business case for this expense was my wife's connivence but guess I am getting real excited with new technology. This used to be very expensive technology and satellite telephone were pretty big and expensive and of course service was out of my league before now. It is supposed to be delivered tomorrow and I will be busy couple of days playing :-)


Quote from: hbn7hj  - 
Just watched a class C with the Starlink square antenna permanently mounted on the roof with the Starlink provided tripod. It was behind the A/C for a little wind break. I won’t do that but each to his own.

Power consumption adds up at 4 amps. I find with sharing with friends I need to run it 24/7. With my dual lead acid/lithium battery system I can start the generator without bringing down Starlink as the generator runs off the lead acid battery.

With a normal battery system starting the generator will turn Starlink off.
Re: Starlink Install
Reply #55 –
"I was surprised that generator put only about 20-25 amp in battery"

The generator puts out lots of power... but it feeds the converter, which in turn charges the battery. The converter is the bottleneck: its DC power output doesn't take advantage of all that generator power. If you want faster charging from the generator, you could replace the converter with one that has higher output (making sure the DC wiring is large enough)... and/or go to LiFePO4 batteries, which charge much faster than lead-acid ones, because they don't have a long tapering absorb cycle.
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"
Re: Starlink Install
Reply #56 –
"I know cruise folks will have lot of issues with it but I do not have to announce."

Since the dish must be out in the open to work, you'd have to mount it on deck somehow. It's going to be obvious, in other words.

Also, bear in mind that Starlink is currently limited to latitudes between 57° north and 57° south, so it won't work in Antartica. It also won't work in some oceanic locations, until Starlink launches a lot more satellites.
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"
Re: Starlink Install
Reply #57 –
Andy,
I think both of us worked in the same environment and first lesson was getting permission is difficult compared to saying sorry.  ... I am using bipap for 22 years and now cruise crew are relaxed about it but initially their engineer will come to the room to make sure that it is not a fire hazard and will not strain their electric system and extension cord has correct gauge etc. .... I can use disk in the balcony and if they have issue it will go back to the box. They cannot throw me in the water ....

As for north and south I understand, no satellites no service. There are number of countries do not have Starlink service according to the map on the website. If my memory is correct non of the South American country is in the list. New satellites do not required ground infrastructure, what switches/routers were doing in past these satellites are doing the same routing functionality by talking to each other wirelessly which make ground infrastructure redundant but there are still older model satellites in the mix which do need to use ground routers. There is no logic to restrict any country. We are starting in Ft. Lauderdale and after around 3 months will come back to Ft. Lauderdale and it will  be interesting to see how they can block a country. If satellites have to be moving above them to make the circle they should support legit disks. unless they need ground support.  More of the curiosity then anything else .... I am out of this field for 12 years perhaps there are few things I do not get anymore.

Regards,


Quote from: Andy Baird  - 
"I know cruise folks will have lot of issues with it but I do not have to announce."

Since the dish must be out in the open to work, you'd have to mount it on deck somehow. It's going to be obvious, in other words.

Also, bear in mind that Starlink is currently limited to latitudes between 57° north and 57° south, so it won't work in Antartica. It also won't work in some oceanic locations, until Starlink launches a lot more satellites.
Re: Starlink Install
Reply #58 –
Andy,

Got it. Thanks.

Right now stock batteries and converter along with two additional batteries are good enough for us but good to know why I was not seeing more current going into the battery. I thought it was due to some programming issues for stage charging. I am very happy with LD's well thought design and will hesitate to modify it unless absolutely needed. I know putting in Lithium batteries will help me but who in NJ will touch LD? and I am in no physical shape to do it on my own. I am still struggling with Ford to fix safety recall. Story for some other time ....

After Alaska trip I am not sure what will be our next move, if health does not deteriorate and we enjoy Alaska trip and continue to talk to each other few weeks after coming back (while in the cruise) my wife may bring up next step (and if she does not I will) and I am getting ready for that talk .... been looking at Patagonia model from Global Expedition vehicle, beside knowing the company and model I have no idea what which truck I will go with .... still at least two years in future, if we ever reach to that point and stock do not loose too much steam. With this in mind, we are doing minor modifications in LD to make our life little easy like hydraulic levelers, additional batteries, ceramic coating and few more cosmetic changes but not investing any serious time on other modification. But then I see folks here happy with LD for years after years and US has so much variety that buying an expensive truck to go out of country does not make much sense. My name and place of birth is another issue, I am stopped at least 5-6 borders in last few years. Apparently there are 11 folks in interpole wanted list whose names are similar to mine and were born in the same city (folks do not realize that 90% folks in Pakistan has either first or second name Muhammad). This is future but right now I am enjoying the present .....

Regards,

Quote from: Andy Baird  - 
"I was surprised that generator put only about 20-25 amp in battery"

The generator puts out lots of power... but it feeds the converter, which in turn charges the battery. The converter is the bottleneck: its DC power output doesn't take advantage of all that generator power. If you want faster charging from the generator, you could replace the converter with one that has higher output (making sure the DC wiring is large enough)... and/or go to LiFePO4 batteries, which charge much faster than lead-acid ones, because they don't have a long tapering absorb cycle.
Re: Starlink Install
Reply #59 –
Starlink runs on AC. If you cannot run a 300 watt inverter from your flooded lead acid (FLA) battery bank without it screaming (I cannot) you will not be able to run Starlink. My FLA bank has a voltage drop I have never found, probably in the cut off switch.

The power supply can be modified to run on 12 volts but it is not a trivial mod. Don’t expect a problem free Starlink startup. Starlink will not have problems but your power source might.
Harry 2006RB
Re: Starlink Install
Reply #60 –
Thanks for the heads up.

I have two small portable 500W battery bank, small units with lithium batteries (50 ah battery I believe), chargers and inverter bundled in one unit and couple of different outlets (12V, 120V, usb, c, etc.).  Based on calculation posted here 500W should last for 3-4 days for 3 hour/day usage. I don't think withdrawing 4 amp from them for 3-4 hours continuously will be a problem but these are cheap units and I do not have them for long enough to have any confidence. They are advertised 10+K discharge and charge cycles though.

I am expecting Starlink hardware delivery today and I have few weeks to play with it .... potential power issue was not even on my radar screen, and without your messages  I would not even have paid attention and just used home outlet during the testing period .. Not ready to go for lithium conversion yet, if need be I know I can buy 2K or 3K battery pack but it will be too heavy for me to handle. I am glad you are giving me advance notice and I will be ready before the trip.

Regards,

Quote from: hbn7hj  - 
Starlink runs on AC. If you cannot run a 300 watt inverter from your flooded lead acid (FLA) battery bank without it screaming (I cannot) you will not be able to run Starlink. My FLA bank has a voltage drop I have never found, probably in the cut off switch.

The power supply can be modified to run on 12 volts but it is not a trivial mod. Don’t expect a problem free Starlink startup. Starlink will not have problems but your power source might.
Re: Starlink Install
Reply #61 –
Starlink needs at least a 300 watt inverter. My 200 watt inverter fails. Presently I am running it on a 1500 watt inverter.

I have seen it draw up to 9 amps at 13.3 volts as the power draw varies a good bit. The 45 watt number comes from those that averaged the power draw over time. In addition to that you have the inverter parasitic loss.

Don’t expect it to be trouble free if you don’t have excess power to play with. Just an FYI.
Harry 2006RB
Re: Starlink Install
Reply #62 –
Thanks again and got it. I am not dropping my cell service nor am I dropping home internet service. I know early technology adaptors pain quite well and am ready, I do not know much about LD or camping but I do have some background on this technology .... I checked amazon this am after reading your messages and portable power station prices are in free fall going to that route will have the problem of charging them .... right now we are set to survive without any electrical supply for weeks and weeks and I like it that way if getting bigger portable power station means I will have to plug them every few days then it will be a serious restriction unless they can be charged fast from alternator while car is going from point a to point b .... first thing first, lets see if Starlink work in our scenario of moving every second or third day and if it work then I am willing to make few adjustments. I was expecting Startlink hw to be delivered today and of course it is delayed, at this point I am not even 100% sure if it will work at my home. At the time of ordering, I was busy booking one of the Utah national park campground and used it as service area to accelerate HW delivery. Yes risky but I am not getting Statlink for home use anyway, I have adequate speed at fraction of the cost at home it has to work while we are travelling in remote areas.
Thanks again and I am taking your input very seriously.

Quote from: hbn7hj  - 
Starlink needs at least a 300 watt inverter. My 200 watt inverter fails. Presently I am running it on a 1500 watt inverter.

I have seen it draw up to 9 amps at 13.3 volts as the power draw varies a good bit. The 45 watt number comes from those that averaged the power draw over time. In addition to that you have the inverter parasitic loss.

Don’t expect it to be trouble free if you don’t have excess power to play with. Just an FYI.
Re: Starlink Install
Reply #63 –
The LD generator should charge your power station very quickly. Forget about the alternator.
Harry 2006RB
 
Re: Starlink Install
Reply #64 –
"The LD generator should charge your power station very quickly. Forget about the alternator."

The 2021 E450 chassis in Muhammad's rig includes a 210 amp alternator. Lazy Daze builds in a 55 amp converter, which is the limiting factor when  charging with the generator. Of course not all of the alternator's power is available to charge the house batteries. But I'd be very surprised if the generator/converter combination outperformed an alternator with four times the raw power.
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"
Re: Starlink Install
Reply #65 –
Quote from: Andy Baird  - 
"The LD generator should charge your power station very quickly. Forget about the alternator."

The 2021 E450 chassis in Muhammad's rig includes a 210 amp alternator. Lazy Daze builds in a 55 amp converter, which is the limiting factor when  charging with the generator. Of course not all of the alternator's power is available to charge the house batteries. But I'd be very surprised if the generator/converter combination outperformed an alternator with four times the raw power.

I use a separate AC charger, 100-200 amps. The problem with the alternator is getting a charging voltage of 14+ volts to match the lithium in the power centers. It can be done but I haven’t tried. The AC charger works very well.

He will figure it out.
Harry 2006RB
Re: Starlink Install
Reply #66 –
"I use a separate AC charger, 100-200 amps."

I guess I missed the part where you informed Muhammad that in order for your "forget the alternator" statement to be true, he'd need to buy a separate 100-200 amp charger, wire it in, and use it for charging instead of his built-in converter.
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"
Re: Starlink Install
Reply #67 –
Quote from: Muhammad  - 
if getting a bigger portable power station means I will have to plug them every few days then it will be a serious restriction unless they can be charged fast from the alternator while the car is going from point a to point b .

Every portable power station I have seen has a built-in charger and the better ones have lithium batteries. If you have several power stations that need charging, the generator can provide up to 4000-watts, and plenty of power for charging all your power stations at once. The lithium batteries charge very quickly, reducing generator run time.

As hbn7hj pointed out, the problem charging off the alternator is low voltage. To fully charge lithiums, 14.4-14.6 volts are needed. Alternators tend to have their output voltage drop as they heat up and as the starting battery becomes fully charged.
In modern vehicles, the alternator's voltage is controlled by the engine's computer and cannot be adjusted, AFAIK.

An alternative to generator use is to install a big inverter and use it to charge the power stations while the engine is running.

Larry







Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Starlink Install
Reply #68 –
Harry, Larry and Andy,
Thanks a bunch. This is new information for me, but there is enough here for me absorb, understand and act on it.

Harry,
I apologize, from very beginning you been trying to educate me and I continue to miss it. If you get a chance to post what you are using, I will simply get it otherwise I will look for options on amazon.

Regards,
Re: Starlink Install
Reply #69 –
As Larry said those 'power packs' have their own charging systems.  You could charge using the type of DC to DC converter that I have.     12V 60A DC to DC On-Board Battery Charger | Renogy Solar    It can charge lead/acid or LiFePO4 and accepts what ever voltage the engine alternator provides. It up converts to the higher voltage that the LiF batteries use.  It can also be controlled by the D+ input to not load the alternator if it is using power for other items, (i.e. electric leveler retracting),  and the  LC+ input to limit current demand from the alternator.  
    Rather than fool with the individual boxes, converting to LiF is the easiest long term solution. My inverter isn't big enough to run the air conditioner, but a MB could have one. 450-500 Watts of solar is the best for the present R3000i solar controller. My R3000i was easy to program for a higher voltage to accommodate the LiF batteries. Our 24' rigs are harder to put more solar PV panels than that anyway.  The 27' and longer can fit more panels and more batteries.  With my two SOK and 5 kw of power available (without damaging the batteries) I can go a long time without running out of power.   RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
Re: Starlink Install
Reply #70 –

Just trying to understand ... I am looking at specs for Globas power station (Amazon.com : GOLABS Portable Power Station R500, 518Wh LiFePO4 Battery...) which I have two of them, this power pack has a 100W charger built in even if I ignore all the looses, I can get 100/12 ~ 8 amp for charging when I connect to 12 volt or even if I turn on the generator and connect it to a 110V socket I will get less then one amp input (100/120). If I put a more powerful charger (100/200 amp0 between build in charger and say 110 socket when I run the generator, will it really help? I did not pay much for this power pack and it reflect on cheap low capacity charger. Is there a way to bypass built in charger in the box?

Will DC to DC charger bypass built in charger?

Quote from: RonB  - 
As Larry said those 'power packs' have their own charging systems.  You could charge using the type of DC to DC converter that I have.     12V 60A DC to DC On-Board Battery Charger | Renogy Solar    It can charge lead/acid or LiFePO4 and accepts what ever voltage the engine alternator provides. It up converts to the higher voltage that the LiF batteries use.  It can also be controlled by the D+ input to not load the alternator if it is using power for other items, (i.e. electric leveler retracting),  and the  LC+ input to limit current demand from the alternator.  
    Rather than fool with the individual boxes, converting to LiF is the easiest long term solution. My inverter isn't big enough to run the air conditioner, but a MB could have one. 450-500 Watts of solar is the best for the present R3000i solar controller. My R3000i was easy to program for a higher voltage to accommodate the LiF batteries. Our 24' rigs are harder to put more solar PV panels than that anyway.  The 27' and longer can fit more panels and more batteries.  With my two SOK and 5 kw of power available (without damaging the batteries) I can go a long time without running out of power.   RonB
As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
Re: Starlink Install
Reply #71 –
Quote from: Muhammad  - 
Harry, Larry and Andy,
Thanks a bunch. This is new information for me, but there is enough here for me absorb, understand and act on it.

Harry,
I apologize, from very beginning you been trying to educate me and I continue to miss it. If you get a chance to post what you are using, I will simply get it otherwise I will look for options on amazon.

Just use what you have. If it falls short, make changes.

I have 400AH of lithium battery and 100-200 amps of AC charger. That is much more than you need. At the moment 200AH of battery is not working correctly so I have removed it temporarily from the system. I have 200 amps of AC chargers, 1 80 amp and two 60 amp. They are smart chargers and do not work well together. I was supposed to call Progressive dynamics technical to find out if I could make a modification to get the full 200 amps. I never did. The most I have seen is 120 amps at 14 volts.

I am running Starlink 24/7 with this setup. The generator runs less than an hour a day to keep up. I do have a trivial 200 watts of solar.

Were I just starting I would first see if your FLA system will run a 300 watt pure sine wave inverter for a reasonable amount of time. Mine will not. If it does then you are good to go. I have run mine on a Samlex 300 watt pure sine wave inverter.

If that fails I would try to run it on one of your power blocks or whatever they are called. I expect it to work.

If that doesn’t work I would get a Bogart battery monitor, a 100AH Battleborn lithium battery a 300 watt inverter and a Progressive Dynamics 60 amp AC charger. I’m not hung up on Battleborn, any brand should work.

Start small and let’s work through it. My Roadtrek has run it on one Battleborn battery. Worked very well. The Bogart battery monitor lets you know when you need to run the generator.

This posting is through Starlink in the wilds of eastern Utah.

The other folks in this thread know what they are talking about.
Harry 2006RB
Re: Starlink Install
Reply #72 –
Good advice and this is my line of thought as well .... I will try to use what I have and modify as needed. DC to DC charger need more more wiring then I am able or willing to do and 200 amp ac charger you mentioned is more then I need and at this point I am not even sure it will help with the baby battery packs I have. In the process I did learn few new things in last few days and always good to know your limitation in advance. I think easiest way for me will be to get a bigger batter pack paying attention to charging capability but I will not rush to collect more junk unless I really need it.

Thanks for sharing all the information and have all the intention of using Startlink in the middle of nowhere. Little experience give me the appreciation of difficulty of getting the required components while on the road.

Be well Harry

Quote from: hbn7hj  - 
Just use what you have. If it falls short, make changes.

I have 400AH of lithium battery and 100-200 amps of AC charger. That is much more than you need. At the moment 200AH of battery is not working correctly so I have removed it temporarily from the system. I have 200 amps of AC chargers, 1 80 amp and two 60 amp. They are smart chargers and do not work well together. I was supposed to call Progressive dynamics technical to find out if I could make a modification to get the full 200 amps. I never did. The most I have seen is 120 amps at 14 volts.

I am running Starlink 24/7 with this setup. The generator runs less than an hour a day to keep up. I do have a trivial 200 watts of solar.

Were I just starting I would first see if your FLA system will run a 300 watt pure sine wave inverter for a reasonable amount of time. Mine will not. If it does then you are good to go. I have run mine on a Samlex 300 watt pure sine wave inverter.

If that fails I would try to run it on one of your power blocks or whatever they are called. I expect it to work.

If that doesn’t work I would get a Bogart battery monitor, a 100AH Battleborn lithium battery a 300 watt inverter and a Progressive Dynamics 60 amp AC charger. I’m not hung up on Battleborn, any brand should work.

Start small and let’s work through it. My Roadtrek has run it on one Battleborn battery. Worked very well. The Bogart battery monitor lets you know when you need to run the generator.

This posting is through Starlink in the wilds of eastern Utah.

The other folks in this thread know what they are talking about.
Re: Starlink Install
Reply #73 –

I agree with Harry's advice to start small and work through it, upgrading only as necessary. That said...

"Rather than fool with the individual boxes, converting to LiF is the easiest long term solution." -- RonB

I agree. Your Lazy Daze already has a well-integrated electrical system: alternator, generator, converter, solar panels, batteries, fuse panel, and of course wiring throughout the coach. If you need more input power, it makes sense to upgrade the 55 amp converter/charger to a more powerful one, and/or add more solar panels. Similarly, if you need more storage for that power, it makes sense either to add more batteries like the ones you already have, or (as Ron suggests) switch to LiFePO4 batteries that can hold more power.

These upgrades will take full advantage of the electrical system that you paid for when you bought your rig. Own the other hand, with a "power station" such as the GoLabs unit you mentioned, you have a second system, partially duplicating the LD electrical system but much more limited, and which must be charged and managed separately. It's not tied into the LD system, so you can only charge it as fast as its internal circuitry will allow--and that's not very fast.

GoLabs' supplied AC adapter, for example, only provides 3 amps at 15 volts. You can plug in a solar panel, but it must not be larger than 100 watts--that's about 5.5 amps at 18 volts. These are very small charging currents compared to what your Lazy Daze's built-in electrical system can provide to your house batteries. And once it's charged, you don't have the advantage of power that's available to every 12V socket in your RV. (Yes, these power stations give you an inverter... but inverters are easy to find these days. For example, Bestek makes a 1,000 watt pure sine wave inverter the size of a lunchbox.)

My point is that as Ron said, for most RVers it makes more sense to upgrade one or more components of your rig's existing electrical system than to buy one or more separate "power stations" and then juggle multiple independent power systems that don't work together. In your case, better house batteries and perhaps a good inverter make more sense than multiple "boxes."

As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"
Re: Starlink Install
Reply #74 –
Thank Andy.

Current system is adequate for our need. I was gung-ho on lithium upgrade and adding couple of additional panel and also lined up same vendor Ken used. Additional two batteries under the fridge were supposed to be temporary solution. I read that coach batteries do not last for more then 12 months. It turn out that I was too pessimist. System is going very strong and I do not see any weakness and at this point I don't know electrical upgrade will come first or rig change will happen first.

Issue at hand is power need for Startlink and I still have difficulty digesting the facts that it will take around 50W (about twice as much as tv). I am sure Harry has turn off snow melting feature and perhaps there are few other features I do not need. Even with 50W need, my little power pack should last 10 hrs or 3 days and I put both of them on work we are set for about a week. Lets see how it goes ... our coach battery never go beyond 90% it may be the time to get them to use as well, I do have a small inverter which I thought we will use to charge cell phones but they get charged while we drive. I will see the rating of inverter I have and perhaps I do need a bigger inverter but not sure. It is good that amazon and ebay keep a good history of our purchases :-)
 
And you are right about charging portable solar panels ...  efficiency of portable panels is pathetic, even in ideal condition I have never seen working better then 50%. As for two systems, yes it is not ideal situation but not much pain in the back either.

I took of time from experts on this topic but in the process I got better understanding of weak points of existing electrical system. I am sure LD will update a component now that chassis has better alternator but all of us know they take their time. I have no complain and my reluctance to make any changes is the reflection on their solid design.

Edit: I checked and I already have 300W inverter which can be used to power Starlink but I will be keeping more closer eye on my house batteries. I do remember Larry W. advice to not go beyond 80% on regular basis.

Regards,