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Topic: Finding the Dry rot (Read 880 times) previous topic - next topic
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Finding the Dry rot
So I have gone from poking a little dry rot to gutting the rear of my TK.
I have been trying to take some pictures and it is a slow process.  I almost have it completed and am getting ready to put the end caps back on when it warms up a little more.  I have insulated and added more 12 volts on the back wall.  This will not come apart again for better or worse.

https://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?action=media;sa=album;in=603
1997 TK
Re: Finding the Dry rot
Reply #1 –
For projects like this, persistence may be the most important skill to have.
Keep at it.

Larry
 
Re: Finding the Dry rot
Reply #2 –
If I could do over again I would have started by removing the bumper first, then all of the fiberglass lower panels followed by the aluminum sides.  I didn't think I would take it to this extreme.  But as I removed the inside wood it was hard to come up with a good solution to replacing things from the inside.  Putting it back together like they did at the factory starting with the wood frame and then installing the side panels last is the easiest way.  Getting the wood to still line up with the factory aluminum skin is time consuming.  I found one side is 1/8 different from driver to passenger measurements so if I made it symmetrical the outside skin didn't look right with a gap.  I found rot that I was unaware of and didn't realize the musty smell could be removed, thought it just came with a old RV.  I am now installing new cushions up top and in the back too.  I won't feel guilty when selling knowing that there was this issue and the next person might not have the time for the repair.
1997 TK
Re: Finding the Dry rot
Reply #3 –
Quote from: Craig P  - 
If I could do over again I would have started by removing the bumper first, then all of the fiberglass lower panels followed by the aluminum sides.  I didn't think I would take it to this extreme.  But as I removed the inside wood it was hard to come up with a good solution to replacing things from the inside.  Putting it back together like they did at the factory starting with the wood frame and then installing the side panels last is the easiest way.  Getting the wood to still line up with the factory aluminum skin is time consuming.  I found one side is 1/8 different from driver to passenger measurements so if I made it symmetrical the outside skin didn't look right with a gap.  I found rot that I was unaware of and didn't realize the musty smell could be removed, thought it just came with a old RV.  I am now installing new cushions up top and in the back too.  I won't feel guilty when selling knowing that there was this issue and the next person might not have the time for the repair.

You're doing a great job!  I know you are in a bit of a race with time putting things back together.  The cold is starting to settle in here and I haven't got my caps on, nor windows for that matter. I like how you pulled everything off.  We did most everything from the inside, with a few exceptions. So there will be areas reconstructed that are not Lazy Daze qualiity. BUT, there are a few places where we added more (and thicker) wood/supports.  Mine is a 1987 so I'm more concerned about making it a solid, safe and sealed rig rather than restoring it to showroom floor condition.  I pray I accomplish my goal!

Your photos will make a great disclosure to any future buyers.  And generally, someone who goes through the extensive labor to fix issues will be a good judge of how well they will keep up on preventative maintenance.  Because I will tell you, as much as I'm learning, I would much rather spend a day or two a year sealing and servicing items than tearing into these rigs to fix damage.  There have been some fun and interesting times AND I am trying to stay positive, but deep down, there is no hiding the fact that I'd rather be doing something else!!!!

Good luck, Craig and thanks for the pics!
1987 22' Rear Lounge
Re: Finding the Dry rot
Reply #4 –
Nice job!  WoW that is a lot of wood!  Wouldn't it be nice if LD invested in some new engineering design to make the roof and associated areas better performers in reducing rot.  They could keep the internal wood design just protect it in a better manner.  For example, create a design where the roof and associated areas are made by contractor in a factory environment using materials that keep water out. That structure is installed last over top of completed LD. This could help reduce employees needed to build a LD, less training for new employees, a better waterproof build and reduced build times. Perhaps it could be some kind of one piece pre-molded stamped structure.

Ron
Ron and Linda
Ada Michigan
Re: Finding the Dry rot
Reply #5 –
So I got the lower end caps on.  I have used 3M VHB tape before without the primer and with it I was pleasantly surprised at how well the caps went back on without the need for a bunch of screws.  I still need to apply some 5200 FC caulking along the seam to make up for the small gap as my measurements were a little off but I feel SO much better knowing I had this for 5 years with the ROT so even if water gets in there again I have more than 5 years.  I have used about 3 tubes of PL40 along the wood under the caps as I have been building it.  So if water gets by the caps it will run all the way down to the bottom and not into the wood which is more in line with how the factory builds it now and I feel is a good seal.
1997 TK
Re: Finding the Dry rot
Reply #6 –
Craig P., a project like this among my RV friends would be MIND BLOWING!!   Btw, I’m interested why you’ve decided not to use screws to secure the end caps.

And thank you for sharing the pictures in your album.  I’d have to say they’re more than educational and clearly illustrate why any RV needs regular inspections of all seams and sealant.

Finally, do you have any other planned renovations and upgrades?
Re: Finding the Dry rot
Reply #7 –
I may add some screws but the 3m vhb tape is screw alternative and with the primer I am a believer.  After a few weeks if there is any spot that loosens up I will add screws and add more 5200.  The tape also an almost instant bond and with the roller and heat really doesn't need the screws surprisingly.  Totally different when removing the caps compared to repairing a single spot.  I also have some 5200 right behind the tape that will also help hold the inside of the cap.
1997 TK
Re: Finding the Dry rot
Reply #8 –
It’s very likely that you already know this, but if at some later time you do decide to use SS screws, drilling a “pilot” hole will help prevent the ABS cap material  from cracking or splitting. I marked the hole positions, then blue taped all around each mark. No cracks.  ;) 
2003 TK has a new home
Re: Finding the Dry rot
Reply #9 –
I think I already found 2 spots that will require screws as the foam gap from the tape is about maxed out..  Temps are kinda cool right now so I'm going to give it time to cure a little more with it clamped.  I already removed the front mattress and removed the old foam for the next project.  So I should be good for 5 more years without much more major maintenance items left on the list from when I purchased it.  Then onto the 2 Jeeps where I plan on taking more Larry W tips.
1997 TK
Re: Finding the Dry rot
Reply #10 –
The other reasons for not using a lot of screws was shortly after purchasing I removed the driver front end cap for rot repair and talking with the mother ship VHB tape was recommended and has help up well.  I didn't use the primer back then.
1997 TK
Re: Finding the Dry rot
Reply #11 –
So I'm working on getting the windows back in and think I found the root of the problem.  I am finding evidence of silicone layered on top of original caulking and oversized screws that deformed the window frame.  So at some point someone tried to do maintenance.  I am pleased with the outcome as the corners are VERY solid and I didn't destroy the paint as bad as I thought I would.
1997 TK
Re: Finding the Dry rot
Reply #12 –
I’m so impressed by you guys restoring your LD’s. I rode the winter out under a tarp in TN now I’m back at working on my 27ft 1998 mid bath. Question for anyone who can advise… how do you get the end caps off? Also the ones one side behind driver/passenger seats. I have a crack apx 1” across lower portion I’m afraid I’m going to crack it. Also I can not seem to find access to the rotted wood that runs vertically under the side passenger cap. The storage near it is also moldy and from inside I removed the booth seat and discovered the floor in corner was rotted away. It must of stayed wet many years; the wood was disintegrated, nuts and screws are no longer attached to anything they  rusted down. I’m hoping someone has the time & knows how I can diy repair my LD. Next will be the rear as both Craig and Kenny have done. ( you guys make it look easy) it’s ridiculously hard! Thanks I’m advance for advice
1997 27' ?
Re: Finding the Dry rot
Reply #13 –
Quote from: Ibelieve55  - 
Question for anyone who can advise… how do you get the end caps off?

See this:
My "How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the End Cap" Project

Also, search for threads by Cor2man, who faced a lot of similar issues:
End caps, Screws? PLS40? 5200?

This may also help (go backwards chronologically to see the whole process):
The Odd Essay: The Lazy Daze..... 99.9% Done


Rich

2003 MB
Re: Finding the Dry rot
Reply #14 –
@Ibelieve55 I,m so sorry for what you are about to go through.  If the corner is that bad I would be prepared to remove the endcaps and all aluminum siding from the side to repair.  I would use a generous amount of tape on both sides of the sealatnt.  Then with a razor knife cut away as much sealant that you can get to.  I then used a Multi-Purpose Painter's Tool like below to keep SLOWLY getting the endcap to pull away.  Took about a day per cap.

Multi-Purpose Painter's Tool

To repair the corner I didn't have damage to the storage compartment, but still wished I had the time to remove more of the side to get the best repair possiable as I did replace some of the 2x6 above the storage lid and down the side.  Too bad your on the other side of the country or I would love to help try again   ;D
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1997 TK
Re: Finding the Dry rot
Reply #15 –
I REALLY need to stop poking around.  Getting ready to upgrade the electrical to lots of Victron stuff.
1997 TK
Re: Finding the Dry rot
Reply #16 –
So I got a new battery door that is insulated.  I had a setup simular to @Larry W insulating the current door.  Wood all along the passenger floorboard has been replaced and now need to finish a new battery compartment with the second alternator connections
1997 TK