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Topic: Atwood Water Heater Drain Plug (Read 195 times) previous topic - next topic
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Atwood Water Heater Drain Plug
Any recommendations on best place to buy a replacement drain plug?  And do you use any plumbers tape for the threads?  When I removed mine there was no tape on it (from factory).

Thanks,

Bill
2013 31' Silver Twin Bed
Semi-retired 6/21....

 
Re: Atwood Water Heater Drain Plug
Reply #1
"...replacement drain plug..."

If the old one was nylon there's no need for tape. Why do you need to replace the one you have?

A metal drain plug will set you up for electrolysis (corrosion) between two dissimilar metals.   :(
Steve S.
Lazy Bones & Cedar
2004 30'IB (Island Bed)
Yesterday is History, Tomorrow is a Mystery
Live for the day!

Re: Atwood Water Heater Drain Plug
Reply #2
Amazon.com: XtremeAmazing 1/2 Inch Water Heater Drain Plug for RV Camper and...
12 for $7.15, enough to last the rest of your RV life

Or, you can buy the official Atwood brand 2 for $11.08 Amazon.com: Atwood (91857 1/2" Drain Plug Kit, (Pack of 2): Automotive

As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
Linda B
Green 2021 RB
2022 Ford Maverick toad

Re: Atwood Water Heater Drain Plug
Reply #3
"...replacement drain plug..."

If the old one was nylon there's no need for tape. Why do you need to replace the one you have?

A metal drain plug will set you up for electrolysis (corrosion) between two dissimilar metals.   :(

That’s what I assumed (tape) ….as to why….I didn’t have the proper socket (I do now) so used a combination of channel pliers and regular pliers which slightly “chewed” the plug.   So I thought I’d replace it so I had a beautiful fit for my new 15/16” socket
2013 31' Silver Twin Bed
Semi-retired 6/21....

Re: Atwood Water Heater Drain Plug
Reply #4
I would always use some tape when doing a removal and replacement. It's inexpensive insurance against a leak at an inconvenient time or place in the future.

When I got my coach in 2014, I removed what I recall being a metal plug. I replaced it with a brass nipple, ball valve and barb fitting on the outlet to simplify winterizing, replacing air cushion, etc. I used plenty of blue tape on all. No evidence of any corrosion.

The plug is a standard size, so any good hardware, or big box home improvement store will have what you need. 

As always, YMMV!

Bill
Bill
2003 -- 23' FL

Re: Atwood Water Heater Drain Plug
Reply #5
On our ‘15 RB I added pipe tape to the OEM nylon drain plug. It’s been a while so I can’t recall why I did that. Made sense at the time I suppose.

The Pressure Relief Valve (PRV)is brass and from the looks of things has tape as an OEM installation.

One thing to remember when draining and filling the water heater tank is don’t forget to “burp” the tank by opening the PRV while refilling it via the on board water supply. This helps to prevent over filling the tank. Once the water escapes the PRV during this step turn off the water pump and close the valve.

I think that’s the correct procedure.

Kent
2015 27' RB "MissB.Haven"

Re: Atwood Water Heater Drain Plug
Reply #6
Many years ago I collected (from my toolbox) a 1/2" drive 15/16" socket, 5" extension, and a thumb ratchet drive to carry in my fresh water parts container used exclusively for removing the drain plug (with tape to prevent leakage when placing it semi-tight to protect the nylon threads). 3/8" drive would work well, but 1/2" is what I had on hand at the time. This is easy to use and doesn't harm the plug.





2010 RB "Monty"  & currently: 2021 RB "Villa Verde"
2004 Born Free 26'
1998 Beaver Patriot 33'
1992 Barth Breakaway 28'
1982 Fleetwood Jamboree 23'
1982 Dolphin/Toyota 22'

Re: Atwood Water Heater Drain Plug
Reply #7
while talking about this topic, how come owe comes with a nylon plug instead of those metal bar plugs that help with something like metal corrosion (idk what it really is)?
1995 23.5 Rear Lounge

Re: Atwood Water Heater Drain Plug
Reply #8
Hi MajorTom;  Those bar/plugs are sacrificial anodes. Home hot water tanks are steel, with a glass coating against the water. There are always small surface area cracks, or edges of tapped holes that are missing the glass. The anode rod (usually magnesium) corrodes instead of the tank. If you replace the anode rod, don't use teflon tape. You want an electrical connection, or it won't sacrifice itself to protect the tank. Electrolysis, or galvanic corrosion, is dependent on the electromotive ranking of the dissimilar metals.
   In motorhomes, the water tanks are aluminum. No corrosion with brass. Plastic plugs won't damage the threads in the tank, if it (the plug) gets cross threaded.   RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB

Re: Atwood Water Heater Drain Plug
Reply #9
thanks RONB, glad we don't have another thing to worry about in ours!
1995 23.5 Rear Lounge

Re: Atwood Water Heater Drain Plug
Reply #10
The tank in our 2021coach now has a nylon insert in the aluminum tank with female threads to accept the nylon plug. No more nylon threads to metal tank threads. A better design.
2010 RB "Monty"  & currently: 2021 RB "Villa Verde"
2004 Born Free 26'
1998 Beaver Patriot 33'
1992 Barth Breakaway 28'
1982 Fleetwood Jamboree 23'
1982 Dolphin/Toyota 22'