Lazy Daze Owners' Group

We avoided that by not allowing lithium charging from the alternator but there are probably good solutions to the problem of uncontrolled charging current destroying the alternator.

I just don’t use my LD that way. It sits. Mercedes only wants you to take 40 amps from the standard alternator. Those high charge rates have to come from a second alternator. I’m not interested in a second alternator. The generator works just fine.
120 amp charge rate is quite enough but if I can increase it from the generator I will. I need to follow up with progressive Dynamics to see if there is a way.
For the Roadtrek I only have 100ah of lithium so 40 amps while driving with the only alternator works very well.

The virtue of such systems is the 48 volt system standard. The weak point is the belt drive to the second alternator. Certainly a solvable problem with stronger belts or double belt drive. The all electric RVs require it. Certainly an interesting technical challenge to retrofit a 48 volt system. I think I would try for a 48 volt system rather than a 200 amp 12 volt system. Just idle thoughts. If anyone does it, let us know how it went.

Hah!  Ours is the 2006 rig that Larry is referring to. The LCD display on the digital thermostat shows each of the functions that it controls: fan, AC, heat (the electric one in the AC unit), furnace, and “off.”  You push a button to cycle through each to select the one you want. There are < and > buttons to adjust the temperature up and down. For our first several years of ownership it all worked fine. Then we started finding that, on occasion, in damp, cool conditions some of the functions simply would not appear. You couldn’t access them. Of course, in cool and damp weather it was always the furnace that was AWOL. This was a particular pain while boondocking at a Caravan Club outing near Solvang (CA) when the overnight temperature went down to 17. Yeah it was fun trying to wash and dress that morning!  I’ve had Steve B and Larry W take looks at it, and even replaced it with a new unit, but the problem persists. What is galling is that it is intermittent, thus making a diagnosis/repair problematic. Sometimes it works fine in similar conditions. I have more recently found that if I go through a reset procedure, the previously “gone” functions will suddenly show up and I can get it to work. The reset involves using the manual on/off switch to turn it off, then holding two of the function buttons simultaneously while switching it back on. All of this leads me to suspect a bad control board, which is located in the rooftop AC unit. But, Steve gave that a thorough examination and saw nothing obvious. Sooo, that’s the story.  — Jon (with thanks to Steve and Larry for all their efforts)

<Sam, when we recovered all the outside sheet metal siding and roofing from the 50' X 80' shop building the workers laid double bubble reflective foil insulation (see link) across the roof trusses before attaching the new metal roofing. We did the same for the west and south walls that has the most exposure to the sun. It eliminates almost all the radiant heat from the outside. Years ago we had done the same to the other equipment building during the construction and it then did a great job of keeping the heat out.
What also helps during the Florida summer is running a 4' floor fan's air through the building.(pix)

<Amazon.com: Double Bubble Reflective Foil Insulation: (4 X 50 Ft Roll)...