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Topic: Fresh Water Tank Outlet Fitting Leak (Read 205 times) previous topic - next topic
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Fresh Water Tank Outlet Fitting Leak
I have a slow leak from the fresh water tank outlet fitting which I noticed was in a loose position.  If I torque it back to the right it tightens but am wondering if I need to reapply something like pipe dope?  If so, what's the best way to unscrew the fitting completely as it appears the fresh tank will have to be lifted slightly to allow for the right angle fitting to be completely unscrewed.

Re: Fresh Water Tank Outlet Fitting Leak
Reply #1
Had this happen in our '83 FL, and simply tightening it never leaked again. If you want to raise the tank, it will require removing access to the top to disconnect the fill port, and there may be sealant around the bottom drain pipe too. This will be a lot of effort, with the possibility of introducing other leaks. If there is no leak when tightened now, you could just clean the area with alcohol and apply a little 3M 5200 fast cure to the outside to fix it in place.

Steve
2004 FL
2013 Honda Fit

Re: Fresh Water Tank Outlet Fitting Leak
Reply #2
Hi Howard: I would go with what Steve said, if the leak stops. Pipe dope or tape isn't required on plastic to plastic fittings.    If not, I would cut that fitting off to remove it and put in a proper straight nipple, with another union fitting that could be tightened with two wrenches; without stressing the fitting in the tank. While you don't need teflon tape for lubrication, I feel that the tape can 'ooze' into minor imperfections to seal a bit better. Plumbing fittings are tapered, and tightening them puts a lot of expansive pressure on the fitting you are screwing into. Be careful not to damage the fitting in the tank. 
      I'm waiting for delivery of a new pump now, and installing a shutoff ball valve. I developed a leak at Morro Bay and Kent was kind enough to let me use his tools to remove the pump. I was able to put a drip tray under the pump, that I could bail out daily, until I returned.  Future leaks, or pump replacement will be facilitated by having a shutoff valve.  I chose a plastic ball valve. Now would be a good time to install such a valve on your rig, if you choose to.  https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=97247&clickid=search   RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB

 
Re: Fresh Water Tank Outlet Fitting Leak
Reply #3
Here's the after. 

I decided to replace my water pump with a lower flow and much quieter model (keeping the other as a backup).  I used all shurflo fixtures including right angle, straight and nipple couplers.  It was really hard to find the couplers (that are inverted flare to accept the shurflo type connection) and I found that the shurflo silencing kit comes with two of them.  I added a shut off valve which was the hardest part but I'm not sure I'm going to keep it as it seems to restrict the flow too much.  Finally, in order to make a two part (two wrench) right angle connection to the fresh water tank, I had to cut off the ears on the shurflo elbow so I could tighten it.  Anyways, as usual a way too complex challenge.



Re: Fresh Water Tank Outlet Fitting Leak
Reply #4
Here's the after. 

I decided to replace my water pump with a lower flow and much quieter model (keeping the other as a backup).   
I added a shut off valve which was the hardest part but I'm not sure I'm going to keep it as it seems to restrict the flow too much. 

It appears you installed a ball-valve shutoff valve, they are full flow and shouldn’t effect the flow, the smaller pump is most likely the cause of the lower flow.
LD pumps are all in hard places to get to, some are even harder. Be glad you don’t own a T/K.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze

Re: Fresh Water Tank Outlet Fitting Leak
Reply #5
It appears you installed a ball-valve shutoff valve, they are full flow and shouldn’t effect the flow, the smaller pump is most likely the cause of the lower flow.
LD pumps are all in hard places to get to, some are even harder. Be glad you don’t own a T/K.

Larry



Haha...I AM grateful.  What's strange is that I put the smaller pump in and had everything up and running (before I installed the shut off valve).  In my experience, the pumps seem to have a break in period or kinda need to get acclimated every time there's an adjustment as the noise and vibration will be loud and the flow will be inconsistent for the first few hours after install and then everything seems to work itself out and go back to normal.  All seems to be good now even with the lower flow pump (I expected the lower flow, but was even less than when I installed it before the shutoff)