Log In | Register
Skip to main content
Topic: 2021 Rear Bath "Villa Verde" What's new & improvements (Read 6770 times) previous topic - next topic
0 Members and 3 Guests are viewing this topic.
Re: 2021 Rear Bath "Villa Verde" What's new & improvements
Reply #100 –
Thanks guys, my parts list is growing ever longer!  :o
Greg & Victoria
2017 Mid-Bath  “Nocona” towing a manual 2015 Forester
Previously a 1985 TK
SKP #61264
Re: 2021 Rear Bath "Villa Verde" What's new & improvements
Reply #101 –
I have just completed the most involved LD modification I have ever attempted, converting the coach AGM batteries to five Battle Born lithium 100AH batteries. Most will say what I have done is overkill for the planned usage of just running the current coach DC loads including an addition of a Renogy 1000 watt true sine wave inverter to be only used with a six outlet plug strip. The strip will be available for the computers, small item battery charging (razor, toothbrush, drill, vacuum, air compressor, etc.). What I like about the Renogy is that it has a low draw standby mode when not being used so it doesn't have to be switched off & on so much. The other deciding factor is that the lithiums have a 10-year warranty and I still hope to be using this coach for at least the next 10 years.

Right now I am just using the two solar panels that came with the coach. Quite possibly I will add more later.
I replaced the Parallax 8300 55amp. converter with the Progressive Dynamics (PD) 4655LI unit, however I kept the Parallax DC distribution board even though one did come with the PD. Therefore the Parallax converter and the PD DC fuse board is available if someone needs to upgrade. This board works with the PD 'Charge Wizzard' which is unused in the lithium charge setting.  The Lifeline AGM batteries are already spoken for by another LD owner.

I constructed all the battery cables using 2/0 gauge welding cable which is more flexible than automotive cable and much easier to work with. Battle Born (Dragonfly Energy) techs were saying 1/0 cable is what they recommend connecting batteries but the 2/0 is much better for current flow between batteries. I got the tools and supplies (red & black welding cable, terminals, cable cutter, crimpers, heat shrink tubing, junction post, disconnect switch, etc.) from Amazon.

After removing the original LD batteries, I cut ventilation and cable routing holes in the plastic battery box and fully insulated  the outside access door. The lithium batteries don't like freezing and extreme heat. The batteries will enjoy the interior climate instead.  The Battle Born (BB) GC2 100AH batteries are a direct replacement/fit for the Lifeline AGM batteries. Adding to those I placed three BB standard size 100AH batteries under the front dinette seat strapping them down to the floor. Because of the larger cable size the distances between the batteries will make no difference in the equalization of charging in the five battery bank. LD has mounted all main fusing inside the battery box as did for the Bigfoot jack install. I left this unchanged but did add a large fuse for the Renogy inverter on the wall behind that unit.

BB included a Victron BMV-712 smart battery monitor with bluetooth for connecting with a smart phone. It controls a shunt placed on the negative side of the battery bank. I mounted the monitor screen on the wall between the front dinette seat and the sofa. Between the batteries and the shunt I added a heavy duty disconnect similar to what LD installs as an option. I can reach the switch handle from both the inside under the dinette seat and the outside battery box door. This will shut down the entire battery system in an emergency.

In constructing the battery cables I tipple crimped the copper terminal lugs first at the 2/0 setting then again at the 1/0 setting on the crimper for a firm grip to the red and black wires. This was covered with 3/4" 3:1 adhesive lined red or black heat shrink tubing. Taking the lead from LD I coated the lugs with dielectric grease for oxidation protection. These were attached to the battery terminals with  3/8" stainless bolts and nylon locking nuts.  The positive and negative cable lengths have to be equal length between the adjoining battery for equalized charging. I mounted a power junction post for many of the positive leads to the battery bank then attaching that to the battery with the heavy cable. On the negative side the shunt serves that purpose. For maintaining the charge on the Ford engine battery I have installed a Trik-L-Start unit by the solenoid switch that connects the engine alternator to the coach batteries when driving.

Yesterday after completing the job I switched the system on and no sparks flew and no great clouds of smoke showed. Everything tested out correctly. WHEW!!!  I slept well last night.  See attached photos:



2010 RB "Monty"  & currently: 2021 RB "Villa Verde"
2004 Born Free 26'
1998 Beaver Patriot 33'
1992 Barth Breakaway 28'
1982 Fleetwood Jamboree 23'
1982 Dolphin/Toyota 22'
Re: 2021 Rear Bath "Villa Verde" What's new & improvements
Reply #102 –
Nice, clean job!  The 2/0 welding cable is so much fun to work with.
Your electrical needs should be well covered once a few more solar panels are added.

With so much potential ampeage available, I like to add a Catastrophic Fuse ( T-class, fast acting), to the battery circuit, usually a 400-amp fuse,  Five 100-amp, lithium batteries could generate a huge amountof power in case of a short,
MARINCO Pro Installer 400A Class T Fuse Block | West Marine

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: 2021 Rear Bath "Villa Verde" What's new & improvements
Reply #103 –
Thanks Larry. Good idea. I may have one in my electrical parts bin. If not, I can order one. I have just enough red cable to make the addition. I only had 4" of black cable left over from the install. That was cutting it close!
2010 RB "Monty"  & currently: 2021 RB "Villa Verde"
2004 Born Free 26'
1998 Beaver Patriot 33'
1992 Barth Breakaway 28'
1982 Fleetwood Jamboree 23'
1982 Dolphin/Toyota 22'
Re: 2021 Rear Bath "Villa Verde" What's new & improvements
Reply #104 –
A very good fuse. I would order a spare if you do need one on the road. Not something you could run over to Home Depot to get, if you do need one.  Dropped wrenches inside the battery box come to mind.   RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
Re: 2021 Rear Bath "Villa Verde" What's new & improvements
Reply #105 –
The next modification is repeating one I did years ago to our previous rear bath. I replaced the original Winegard batwing TV antenna with the Winegard Rayzar Air paddle bidirectional antenna. It worked well in the past and I had been unsuccessfully looking for another one for Villa Verde. What I liked about the Rayzar is it takes up less roof real estate when down and is not as high when extended.  The other day while at our local RV service center parts section I found what I was looking for way back in the corner of the store. It appeared to have been there for some time. Winegard may not be making them anymore. This style is not shown on their web site any more.
To install, all that was needed to remove the batwing by pulling two pins at the base of the two supporting tubular legs, cut the RG-59 coax cable and it is removed. The Rayzar comes with one leg that easily fits back on the rotating stand. I cut to shorten the Rayzar coax, added RG-59 F-connectors which were joined to a barrel adaptor all protected with dielectric grease. The joint was then covered with two layers of heat shrink tubing. I added two nylon bumpers to the face of the antenna to keep it from full contact with the roof. Job done!!
  If anyone needs a batwing replacement let me know. I already added a F-connector to the cable for the future install.
2010 RB "Monty"  & currently: 2021 RB "Villa Verde"
2004 Born Free 26'
1998 Beaver Patriot 33'
1992 Barth Breakaway 28'
1982 Fleetwood Jamboree 23'
1982 Dolphin/Toyota 22'
Re: 2021 Rear Bath "Villa Verde" What's new & improvements
Reply #106 –
err Mike, you supposed to be out looking at the stars
Don & Dorothy
Sold our LD in June of 2023

Our boring always non-PC travel blog
Traveling Dorothy
Re: 2021 Rear Bath "Villa Verde" What's new & improvements
Reply #107 –
Darn and I just replaced my antenna!  Do you get any “sail effect” when up
from that, Mike?
Greg & Victoria
2017 Mid-Bath  “Nocona” towing a manual 2015 Forester
Previously a 1985 TK
SKP #61264
Re: 2021 Rear Bath "Villa Verde" What's new & improvements
Reply #108 –
The latest modification was to install the WeBoost (Wilson Electronics)  "Drive Reach RV" model cell phone Signal Booster for RV's in Villa Verde. I ordered it directly from Wilson. The outside antenna was designed for mounting via U-bolts to the ladder railing, however I had a different idea, mounting to the roof with a magnet base. I ordered one- 3" diameter 100-lb. grip mounting magnet from K&J Magnetics which I modified to fit the antenna spring base. I then fabricated a galvanized steel plate that I painted and attached to the roof just forward of the center fan vent. This was sealed and screwed down with stainless steel screws. Before attaching to the roof I temporarily hooked the the system to test for oscillation of the signal between the roof and inside antennas. I mounted (with velcro) the inside antenna in the left overhead cabinet on a raised platform between the front and center sections of that long cabinet.
Upon testing there was no antenna oscillation activity which if there was, would be indicated by a red warning light on the amplifier. Inside the coach my iPhone showed 1-bar with the system off and 3-bars throughout the cabin with the system powered up.
The reason I preferred the roof mount antenna as the aluminum roof acts as a great ground plane for the antenna ability to receive and send a stronger signal to the cell tower.
I drilled a 3/8" hole up through the roof from the rear part of the left overhead cabinet for the outside antenna cable. I fabricated an aluminum plate with a center partial ridge to cover and seal the entry point on the roof. This was also screwed & glued down for a tight seal.
I mounted the amplifier to the rear wall of the cabinet and round stapled the inside antenna cable forward to the mounted antenna. All the excessive antenna wire was wound up and attached to the cabinet wall.
Wilson only included a 120VAC power supply for the amplifier and not the optional 12VDC power supply. I called the Wilson customer service rep. and asked why would they do this for a system designated for a motorhome that has a primary 12V power source. They couldn't answer that and immediately mailed me the 12V power supply at no charge.
The newly arrived 12V cable had a fuse and a lighted on/off button on the back of cigarette lighter plug. I drilled a 3/8" hole in the rear corner of the overhead cabinet and fed the power cable down to the 12V power socket under the dinette. The power cable has a plastic housing for a 12VDC to 5VDC transformer. The cable is also wrapped around a small magnet to filter out any ignition interference. 
Job completed!
2010 RB "Monty"  & currently: 2021 RB "Villa Verde"
2004 Born Free 26'
1998 Beaver Patriot 33'
1992 Barth Breakaway 28'
1982 Fleetwood Jamboree 23'
1982 Dolphin/Toyota 22'
Re: 2021 Rear Bath "Villa Verde" What's new & improvements
Reply #109 –
Mike, nice upgrade!  Curious, though, why you didn't mount the antenna closer to the penetration on the roof?
Greg & Victoria
2017 Mid-Bath  “Nocona” towing a manual 2015 Forester
Previously a 1985 TK
SKP #61264
Re: 2021 Rear Bath "Villa Verde" What's new & improvements
Reply #110 –
Greg,  First, I wanted to take advantage of the largest amount of aluminum roof ground plane in all directions and second, I wanted to distance the antenna from signal reflections off the vertical AC metal framework. Just my preferences.
2010 RB "Monty"  & currently: 2021 RB "Villa Verde"
2004 Born Free 26'
1998 Beaver Patriot 33'
1992 Barth Breakaway 28'
1982 Fleetwood Jamboree 23'
1982 Dolphin/Toyota 22'
 
Re: 2021 Rear Bath "Villa Verde" What's new & improvements
Reply #111 –
I just completed the next modification on my list: The adding of aromatic red cedar closet paneling to the rear wall of the clothes closet. The panels were available from Lowes and one box was enough to complete the job. I used a battery powered brad nailer for attaching the tung & groove boards to the back wall. 
2010 RB "Monty"  & currently: 2021 RB "Villa Verde"
2004 Born Free 26'
1998 Beaver Patriot 33'
1992 Barth Breakaway 28'
1982 Fleetwood Jamboree 23'
1982 Dolphin/Toyota 22'
Re: 2021 Rear Bath "Villa Verde" What's new & improvements
Reply #112 –
Kinda like your “Hope Chest” surrounded by your “Dream Machine”. Nice job. 👍👍

Kent
2015 27' RB "MissB.Haven"
Re: 2021 Rear Bath "Villa Verde" What's new & improvements
Reply #113 –
Quote from: Mike Coachman  - 
I just completed the next modification on my list: The adding of aromatic red cedar closet paneling to the rear wall of the clothes closet. The panels were available from Lowes and one box was enough to complete the job. I used a battery powered brad nailer for attaching the tung & groove boards to the back wall. 

Great idea, Mike!
Greg & Victoria
2017 Mid-Bath  “Nocona” towing a manual 2015 Forester
Previously a 1985 TK
SKP #61264
Re: 2021 Rear Bath "Villa Verde" What's new & improvements
Reply #114 –
I am aware of the national problem of catalytic converter thefts. So after looking at a couple of commercial anti-theft devices I thought I would do my own version of the 'CatClamp.'  I did this by weaving about 15' of stainless steel aircraft control cable that I happen to have in my miscellaneous parts bin through the top & bottom heat shields of the converter and around the cross frame beams before and after the converter. I used  heavy duty cable clamps to secure the ends of the cable to adjoining cable loops keeping the clamps flexible and hard to cut. The clamp bolt nuts were put on with red thread-lock and tightened with an impact wrench. The clamps were positioned above the converter to slow access to them.  Hopefully this will discourage a thief.    
2010 RB "Monty"  & currently: 2021 RB "Villa Verde"
2004 Born Free 26'
1998 Beaver Patriot 33'
1992 Barth Breakaway 28'
1982 Fleetwood Jamboree 23'
1982 Dolphin/Toyota 22'
Re: 2021 Rear Bath "Villa Verde" What's new & improvements
Reply #115 –
I don't know if the cable would make it impossible to extricate the CAT after cutting the exhaust fore and aft,  but it looks different enough from the average install to make the thief look for an easier target.  You can't stop them, but only encourage them to go elsewhere.
joel
Joel & Terry Wiley
dog Zeke
2013  31 IB   Orwan   / 2011 CRV Tow'd LWEROVE
Re: 2021 Rear Bath "Villa Verde" What's new & improvements
Reply #116 –
The thief usually uses a battery reciprocating saw to cut the pipes and that tool would have a very difficult time cutting the highly flexible stainless steel cabling or clamps. I tried cutting this cable with one end in a vice and it still took some time just to cut just two strands before I quit. It could probably be done with a lot more time underneath which is undesirable for the thief. The cable would have to be cut as it is routed through both top and bottom heat shields welded to the converter.
I still have to come up with a solution for protecting the converter on our Jeep Cherokee toad. I may fabricate something later for that.
2010 RB "Monty"  & currently: 2021 RB "Villa Verde"
2004 Born Free 26'
1998 Beaver Patriot 33'
1992 Barth Breakaway 28'
1982 Fleetwood Jamboree 23'
1982 Dolphin/Toyota 22'
Re: 2021 Rear Bath "Villa Verde" What's new & improvements
Reply #117 –
From my earlier post on the installation of the lithium battery bank I said:
"Right now I am just using the two solar panels that came with the coach. Quite possibly I will add more later."
Well later arrived and I just completed an install of the third solar panel. I ordered a 200 watt mono-crystalline panel from AM Solar. The mounting hardware is designed to use with tilting arms when the need comes up. I spoke with Sunforge, the maker of the SB3000i solar controller that came with the LD and they said their controller is designed to handle up to 400 watts (probably a little more). The wiring from the roof passing through the solar controller and to the Progressive Dynamics converter is 10-gauge which is adequate for the incoming amperage from the three panels according to AM Solar.
The install: Since I replaced the gull wing TV antenna with a Winegard flat panel Razar antenna, this allowed for just the right amount of space aft of the antenna's stored position to mount the 61" X 28" solar panel. This location still gives enough walking space past the panel. The mounting brackets came with 3M VHB tape for sticking to the roof which I augmented with some SS screws. The mount was also sealed with Dicor self leveling sealer. There were MC4 terminal block wire connectors on the panel wires and matching connectors on wire pigtails that had to be butt connector spliced to the round 10/2 cable which was routed to the junction box installed by LD for the first two panels. The MC4 connectors will allow the easy unplugging of the panel if the need ever arises. The junction box contained a fuse block and covers the wiring hole through the roof. All the necessary wiring parts were supplied by AM Solar. Even though I was working inside my shop I still covered the two 100 watt panels with cardboard to minimize power output from the panels. I also pulled the fuse from the solar controller to the converter. It took almost a day to complete and at least 20 trips up & down the 12' step ladder next to the coach.  The patterns on the roof are only strange artifacts in the photo and not in the original picture. Must have something to do with the upload to this site.
Now it is time to pack Villa Verde for our western summer excursion soon. We will have two caretakers watching over the ranch in our absence. Now if we can just keep the hurricanes away----
2010 RB "Monty"  & currently: 2021 RB "Villa Verde"
2004 Born Free 26'
1998 Beaver Patriot 33'
1992 Barth Breakaway 28'
1982 Fleetwood Jamboree 23'
1982 Dolphin/Toyota 22'
Re: 2021 Rear Bath "Villa Verde" What's new & improvements
Reply #118 –
I am surprised that there is a Suburban analog thermostat to run the furnace when the one above it will do a better job with 1 degree hysteresis. Maybe an A/C with heat pump cannot run a furnace?

Just checked. Dometic does have a CCC thermostat as pictured that does control a furnace and heat pump. Wonder why LD added the analog thermostat. The digital one works better.

With a better standalone charger your lithium batteries could be charged by the generator at 200 amps. I find that very helpful in reducing generator run time. Maybe you don’t charge by generator.
Harry 2006RB
Re: 2021 Rear Bath "Villa Verde" What's new & improvements
Reply #119 –
Quote from: hbn7hj  - 

Just checked. Dometic does have a CCC thermostat as pictured that does control a furnace and heat pump. Wonder why LD added the analog thermostat. The digital one works better.

With a better standalone charger your lithium batteries could be charged by the generator at 200 amps. I find that very helpful in reducing generator run time. Maybe you don’t charge by generator.

Many have had long-term problems with Dometic’s digital HVAC control, the analog control is simple and more dependable,

While it would be nice to charge at a 200-amp rate, I have never seen a converter or battery charger that uses the generator’s full 30-amp, 120-volt output to acheive a 200-amp charge. Some of the more expensive inverters have 100-amp chagers.
Better still, Mike’s new V8 can have the optional 240-amp alternator installed and thuse it exclusively to charge a lithium powerpack
And with 400-wattsof solar, he will not need hookups as long as the A/C is not needed.

BTW, I have found the 3000i solar controller can handle 500-watts of solar and stay within the stated specifications. The 3000i’s maximum input is 24-amp. With 500-watts of solar, 23-amps is the most ever observed.
Our LD’s solar lead in cables were changed from 10-gauge to 6-gauge, to eliminate excessive voltage drop that occurs when using undersize wires. When I calculated the voltage drop, staying with 10-gauge cable, the voltage drop was way over the 3% maximum that is standard in the marine electrical business, for power supply circuits. To get the most out of you solar money, upgrade the entire system. I like to see voltage drop under 3%.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: 2021 Rear Bath "Villa Verde" What's new & improvements
Reply #120 –
Quote from: Larry W  - 
Many have had long-term problems with Dometic’s digital HVAC control, the analog control is simple and more dependable,

What are the problems? I haven’t faced them yet but probably will. I have had the digital control on an NXT Blizzard A/C and Suburban furnace for six months. No complications yet.

I charge from the generator at a 120 amp rate. I have two 60 amp and one 80 amp Progressive Dynamics lithium chargers but they are “smart” chargers and when paralleled they are not additive. Haven’t solved that problem yet. 120 amps uses less than half of the generator capacity but generator runs are brief. I don’t charge lithiums from the alternator and solar is only 200 watts.
Harry 2006RB
Re: 2021 Rear Bath "Villa Verde" What's new & improvements
Reply #121 –
Quote from: hbn7hj  - 
What are the problems? I haven’t faced them yet but probably will. I have had the digital control on an NXT Blizzard A/C and Suburban furnace for six months. No complications yet.

Be happy your digital control still works correctly.
We have close friends who have had issues with their Dometic digital HVAC control since their 2006 LD was new.
It is a much more complicate control system compared to the furnace and A/C having separate controls.
One advantage of older rigs is the simple controls, our 2003 LD’s furnace and A/C has separate control and still work.
If they stop working, troubleshooting them is within the range of a decent home mechanic, can’t do that with digital controls.

I may be a bit of a luddite, I like mechanical controls better than electronics due to the dependability. I would hate owning one of the newer RVs where all the controls for lights, fans, water pump, heater, A/C, slides, shades and whatever other electrical device are all controlled with one LCD panel.
If something dies in the system, nothing will work and there are no easy work-arounds, while you desparately try to find a shop that understands how the controls works and has the right testing equipment and parts to fix it.
In many cases, a trip back to the Factroy is the cure.
Simple has its advantages, one reason why I like LDs.

Larry

Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: 2021 Rear Bath "Villa Verde" What's new & improvements
Reply #122 –
Hah!  Ours is the 2006 rig that Larry is referring to. The LCD display on the digital thermostat shows each of the functions that it controls: fan, AC, heat (the electric one in the AC unit), furnace, and “off.”  You push a button to cycle through each to select the one you want. There are < and > buttons to adjust the temperature up and down. For our first several years of ownership it all worked fine. Then we started finding that, on occasion, in damp, cool conditions some of the functions simply would not appear. You couldn’t access them. Of course, in cool and damp weather it was always the furnace that was AWOL. This was a particular pain while boondocking at a Caravan Club outing near Solvang (CA) when the overnight temperature went down to 17. Yeah it was fun trying to wash and dress that morning!  I’ve had Steve B and Larry W take looks at it, and even replaced it with a new unit, but the problem persists. What is galling is that it is intermittent, thus making a diagnosis/repair problematic. Sometimes it works fine in similar conditions. I have more recently found that if I go through a reset procedure, the previously “gone” functions will suddenly show up and I can get it to work. The reset involves using the manual on/off switch to turn it off, then holding two of the function buttons simultaneously while switching it back on. All of this leads me to suspect a bad control board, which is located in the rooftop AC unit. But, Steve gave that a thorough examination and saw nothing obvious. Sooo, that’s the story.  — Jon (with thanks to Steve and Larry for all their efforts)
(Former) ‘06 TK “Albatross.” And (former) Vespa 250.   Alas, no more; both are gone.😕 Great memories remain! 😄
Re: 2021 Rear Bath "Villa Verde" What's new & improvements
Reply #123 –
Well, I have a 2006 RB with the five button control unit on the wall and the 13500 BTU Penguin on the roof. They have been replaced so the five button wall control and the board out of the roof unit is yours for an address. I have them in my hand.

They are headed for the dumpster.
Harry 2006RB
Re: 2021 Rear Bath "Villa Verde" What's new & improvements
Reply #124 –
Quote from: Larry W  - 
Better still, Mike’s new V8 can have the optional 240-amp alternator installed and then use it exclusively to charge a lithium power pack.

Presently it is not considered reasonable to charge lithiums directly from the engine alternator even with an isolator or separator. The charging current is not controllable and lithiums can take a major amount of current. An interface is needed. Would be interested in what sort of interface is used in this case. We avoided that by not allowing lithium charging from the alternator but there are probably good solutions to the problem of uncontrolled charging current destroying the alternator.
Harry 2006RB