Roof reseal (The dreaded) July 29, 2020, 02:30:39 pm Good Day Campers, I am getting ready to tackle a roof reseal going the Eternabond route. I am hoping to not have to remove calking, but to be honest, I am not sure if what is up there is caulk or silicon. Can you tell me what the yellowish stuff is from my picture? That was taken close to the ladder on the back passenger side. I was a little confused with the instructions in the companion when it got to the chimney part and the L info. When you run into a vertical, do you just fold it up and trim? I have been following the great advice given after posting about finding moisture in my LD storage compartment. I can't tell if I need to reseal the horizontal panels in the sides of the whole body. There are grooves but I can't see what might have been there originally. (2nd owner of 1997 RB) I hope I posted these picture right. Thanks, friends! Mari 1 Likes
Re: Roof reseal (The dreaded) Reply #1 – July 29, 2020, 02:47:51 pm In the photo, the "amber-colored" sealant looks original, but it's difficult to tell what else might have been plastered on top of this at one time. IMO, it will be very difficult to do a solid, lasting E-bond sealing without first removing the old "goop" from the seams with an oscillating tool, then thoroughly cleaning the seams to be sealed before applying the Eternabond. How well the Eternabond sticks and lasts depends almost exclusively on how carefully the surfaces are prepared.YMMV, as always. 5 Likes
Re: Roof reseal (The dreaded) Reply #2 – July 29, 2020, 06:57:04 pm I used Eterna bond on the straight seams and Dicor on the vents and other roof penetrations. Everything needs to be very clean even for the dicor. I removed the original sealant where it was bad and resealed with 3M5200 FC ( Larry's favorite) let that dry then put the E bond over the top of it. So far so good...Jon 1 Likes
Re: Roof reseal (The dreaded) Reply #3 – July 29, 2020, 07:03:39 pm The amber-colored sealant is indeed original. We had it on our 98 MB. We did an Enternabond reseal without removing all the old sealant and it held up well. The companion has sound advice so it's worth reading twice. We had no protrusions and no leaks. We washed the roof multiple times and allowed it to dry very completely over multiple days. Just prior to applying the EB, we cleaned the application area with acetone. We also found it helpful to snap a chalk line to keep us straight. EB is unforgiving and once it gets offtrack, it's nearly impossible to straighten out. Good luck. You'll be happy you did it. 2 Likes
Re: Roof reseal (The dreaded) Reply #4 – July 30, 2020, 07:50:43 am That looks like my roof did. I cleaned it and then put Eternabond on all seams, and then two coats of Kool Seal. I plan on adding a coat in the next 8 months. Make note I do not know how long it will last, I just did it a few months ago. So far so good though. My thoughts are to add Kool Seal every so often.
Re: Roof reseal (The dreaded) Reply #5 – July 30, 2020, 09:51:05 am "My thoughts are to add Kool Seal every so often."---Kool Seal is a roof sealant designed for "rubber" (and possibly, fiberglass) roofs on RVs. The roof on an LD is aluminum, painted with a slightly "grainy" anti-slip paint. Re-sealing the roof seams with Eternabond (or having the factory do a seam re-seal) and around the vents with 5200 FC or Dicor should be sufficient; if the roof surface is cleaned regularly, it should not require a "coating" of any type. YMMV, as always. 2 Likes
Re: Roof reseal (The dreaded) Reply #6 – July 30, 2020, 10:54:37 am Quote from: Joan - July 30, 2020, 09:51:05 am"My thoughts are to add Kool Seal every so often."---Kool Seal is a roof sealant designed for "rubber"YMMV, as always.Actually I think it was designed for metal first and they now sell one for rubber. It will protect and aid in the Eternabond lasting and it being on the rest of the roof could help keep it cooler.
Re: Roof reseal (The dreaded) Reply #7 – August 02, 2020, 12:44:26 am Perfect timing for another round of roof reseal. I was getting ready this morning to start the cleaning process and I noticed a few cracks in the sealant around the vents (roof does not leak). Big question before I start is whether to use the oscillating tool to remove the original or just put the E-bond and Dicor right over the top once it is extremely clean. I've added a few photos to show what I'm looking at and would appreciate any thoughts. Here's my plan:1. Pressure wash (carefully and where possible)2. Scrub with soap and brushes3. Let dry & clean with acetone just before applying E-bond for seams and Dicor for the rest as has been amply documentedThanks for the input!
Re: Roof reseal (The dreaded) Reply #8 – August 02, 2020, 01:04:43 am What's the orange stuff? I see white and orange, and it appears the white was placed over the orange stuff in places, to which I infer it was placed at a later date. Is the orange stuff coming apart and maybe separating from the roof? Do either fall apart under gentle application of the oscillating tool? [ spoiler alert - I haven't done anything like this on my own roof]Joel
Re: Roof reseal (The dreaded) Reply #9 – August 02, 2020, 03:37:43 am Hi Joel. The Orange material is the original sealer from LD. It starts out as a clear goo. Very thick and tough. After a few years it gets browner and shrivels up a bit. Orangier as it gets older. On my '99 it is still pretty tough. The white material was put on also original I believe. (Hard to tell) but it matches the stuff around the base of the ladder/roof rack mounts. RonB
Re: Roof reseal (The dreaded) Reply #10 – August 02, 2020, 03:59:27 am Hi Ray; The roof does need resealing, but is ok. Your plan sounds good. I'd go light on the acetone, and use more alcohol. Gloves needed. Acetone is pretty unsafe stuff, and I don't think it does all that much better. The one broken cover, I think that's the refrigerator vent? I'd replace it now. The escape hatch cover looks like original. On mine it was the consistency of a Pringle chip. I bumped it with my foot, and a big piece broke off at 17 years. I replaced the cover, A/C shroud, FFan cover and bathroom vent cover. I didn't replace the 'fridge cover, but it needs it now. RonB
Re: Roof reseal (The dreaded) Reply #11 – August 02, 2020, 10:29:21 am Quote from: RonB - August 02, 2020, 03:59:27 amI'd go light on the acetone, and use more alcohol. Gloves needed. Acetone is pretty unsafe stuff, and I don't think it does all that much better.It is best to start the final cleaning process with acetone, which is the safest product for removing organic contaminants (there are better cleaners that are more dangerous I would not recommend). Isopropyl alcohol is best to finish, as that is also a solvent for acetone, will clean off remaining dirt and contaminants, and will prevent any paint damage from the acetone.Steve
Re: Roof reseal (The dreaded) Reply #12 – August 02, 2020, 02:15:52 pm Hi All,We’re just getting ready for the same project with our O4! How long does the eternabond last for? Do you have to redo it 10 years down the road? 1 Likes
Re: Roof reseal (The dreaded) Reply #13 – August 02, 2020, 05:01:14 pm Thanks for the input - I'm calling the factory tomorrow to order the emergency hatch and shower covers as part of the cleanup. This will be a full weekend project (or so).
Re: Roof reseal (The dreaded) Reply #14 – August 02, 2020, 05:27:15 pm "How long does the eternabond last for? Do you have to redo it 10 years down the road?"---I'm pretty sure that there are LD owners who have 10 years and more out of their Eternabond jobs; I did the re-seal 6 or 7 years ago and my roof tape is still in excellent condition. It has needed patches in a couple of spots where a tree branch ripped the plastic cover of the tape, but the integrity of the seal was not compromised.There are many posts on Eternabond how-to in the archives and in The Companion, so not repeating the preparation and application steps here. The keys to doing a lasting job are pretty simple, but if preparation and application steps are done poorly (or skipped altogether) and/or the job is hurried, the result will be a mess, and Eternabond is NOT do-over friendly. If the job is done right, it should last for at least 10 years.YMMV, as ever. 3 Likes
Re: Roof reseal (The dreaded) Reply #15 – August 02, 2020, 06:52:25 pm Of the dozens of Eternabond job I have done over the last 15 years, none that I know of have failed or need resealing yet.I cut the old sealant from the front corners, an area where bubbles are often found, using a vibratory tool and shape blade.I then scrub the roof with soap and water and let dry. Next the seams are cleaned again with acetone or lacquer thinner, while wearing an organic solvent respirator and gloves. A chalk line is then used to snap guide lines before the tape is applied.Once the tape is applied, a heavy veneer roller is used to press the tape firmly to the roof.A little searching and the Companion will bring up many previous postings on the topic.Larry 3 Likes
Re: Roof reseal (The dreaded) Reply #16 – August 24, 2020, 02:23:55 am How did your roof reseal go? We just finished ours today, and we are happy to report that we have lost a good deal of weight in sweat this weekend, our nails are dirty (a given), and we have sore knees (reminiscent of the flooring project we tackled in our first home that we swore we’d never do again), but we are quite happy with the results and are glad the Ebond should last 10-15 years+! We are grateful for all the collective wisdom shared in this community and, in the same spirit, are sharing our takeaways below for future reference:1. We prefered using painters tape to “snap the line” vs a chalk line as our chalk was red and ended up being quite messy in the one corner we tried before switching over to tape. Fyi, there are degrees of permanency to chalk, so be careful when selecting your chalk!2. We didn’t wear gloves and now I have eternabond cuticles 🤣, but I am the type that cannot stand gloves while washing dishes and such, so if you can try them, and if they don’t stick to the tape, the more power to you! 3. Consider a natural sponge for dabbing on the acetone with a quick wipe of paper towel behind. We found the results are much cleaner this way-doesn’t leave as many dirt streaks behind— (cotton can leave fibers behind) and it’s much easier as a 2-person job overall. 4. We decided (not sure how legit this is) to repair a couple minor cracks to the AC cover (After checking for rust, etc. underneath) w/a couple leftover strips of eternabond. We joked that the rig might end up more ebond than rig in 10 years if we follow that same strategy, but we’re bound to make some bad judgment calls, right!?!5. Use good scissors and go slow (4 inches or so at a time) when lining up tape and removing backing. We had to make a few custom cuts around vents, etc but it’s doable with good scissors as long as you keep the plastic backing on the tape intact. 6 Likes
Re: Roof reseal (The dreaded) Reply #17 – September 02, 2020, 06:37:27 pm Quote from: tree_tyger - August 24, 2020, 02:23:55 am1. We prefered using painters tape to “snap the line” vs a chalk line as our chalk was red and ended up being quite messy in the one corner we tried before switching over to tape. Fyi, there are degrees of permanency to chalk, so be careful when selecting your chalk! 4. We decided (not sure how legit this is) to repair a couple minor cracks to the AC cover5. Use good scissors and go slow (4 inches or so at a time) when lining up tape and removing backing. Congratulations on the roof job.I use a chalk line because it's faster and easier to make a straight line. The blue carpenter chalk wipes off with acetone.Whatever works for you is fineEternabond is useful for repairing a cracked A/C cover, the covers will become brittle as they age and eventually will need replacement, so will the vent covers. One of our nearly 18 years old vent covers recently broke into a few dozen pieces when it was bumped. A few years ago, the A/C cover suffered the same faith when it was it by a tree limb.Cutting Eternabond Tape gums up scissors, I keep acetone and a rag handy for cleaning the blades of the scissors and utility knife.Larry 2 Likes
Re: Roof reseal (The dreaded) Reply #18 – October 09, 2020, 07:52:56 pm Update: I have finally completed all the steps leading up to applying Eternabond. I sure know what "sweat equity" means, especially with the extremely high temps, poor air quality, and even falling ash here in So Cal. I persevered though, and hopefully we can tackle the tape tomorrow. I have a couple of questions. I couldn't get Dicor quickly, so used Loctite for windows and siding and applied using a Ryobi battery operated caulk gun. It was pretty warm and it poured out. I don't think I got it as nice and smooth as I should have. Do you think it will be ok to apply the tape over, or do I need to shave it off? Also the picture of the end shows broken caulk or ? Should I dig all of that out and fill it with caulk?I appreciate your help and encouragement. I have learned so much this "stay-cation"!Mari
Re: Roof reseal (The dreaded) Reply #19 – October 10, 2020, 11:32:32 am Quote from: mamanova - October 09, 2020, 07:52:56 pm I don't think I got it as nice and smooth as I should have. Do you think it will be ok to apply the tape over, or do I need to shave it off? Also the picture of the end shows broken caulk or ? Should I dig all of that out and fill it with caulk?As long as the Eternabond Tape has a minimum of one inch of coverage on each side of the seam, it should be OK.The gap or seam between the rear end cap should be scraped cleaned as well as possible and cleaned again with acetone or laquer thinner. Use masking tape around the edges of the gap and then force polyurethane into the gap, using a wet, gloved finger. Smooth the sealant and then immediately remove the tape and let sit until cured.As usual, my preferred sealant is 3M 5200 FC.Larry 1 Likes
Re: Roof reseal (The dreaded) Reply #20 – October 10, 2020, 11:44:02 am Thank you Larry, I was waiting for some feedback and feel very relieved that I can get going. It's nice and cool here today so once I get it dried and recleaned with acetone I'm "going in"!Best,Mari
Re: Roof reseal (The dreaded) Reply #21 – October 10, 2020, 03:04:01 pm We tackled resealing our 98 ~ MB a couple weeks ago. The sealent was still in good condition from a reseal job in the past done by the previous owner. I think it is best tackled this job with two people. This is my first LD roof seal with Eternabond tape. I have done several other SOBs with metal roofs. I had previously resealed some hatches on our LD and relpaced our Emergency Escape with a Opening hatch with a fantastic fan Incorporated in it. We first cleaned our roof and then used a "finds tool" or ribrating tool to remove all old sealent on the front seam. We final cleaned with acetone and let it dry for an hour. The two of us applied the 4" Eternabond tape and it went on just fine. We decided to leave the old sealent on the two side seams since it was in good shape and we were planning to use the 6" Eternabond tape for those seams. We thought that having both systems in place would create a two level sealing job. We started on the Drivers side but had to run short strips to accommodate the Refrige vent and bath vent and skylight. We ended up using 4" in some of these placed to fit right and cleaned the sealent back where needed. When we got to the passenger seam the Eternabond tape got away from us a little, could not run it straight due to the uneven surface underneath so we had to cut it in shorter strips in some places. We overlapped at least 2" and the forward tape overlapped the rear tape at all times. We might have had about 4 to 5 overlaps on whole that side. We did achieve a minimum of 1 1/2" direct contact with each side of the roof or metal roof corner. My advice now is probably to remove all of the old material to get a better looking run and to use the 4" tape. Karen~Liam 98 ~ MB NinA 2 Likes
Re: Roof reseal (The dreaded) Reply #22 – October 10, 2020, 03:48:57 pm Quote from: Karen & Liam - October 10, 2020, 03:04:01 pm My advice now is probably to remove all of the old material to get a better looking run and to use the 4" tape.Looks great.The 6" wide Eternabond Tape is much more difficult to use, compared to the 4". It is preferable for the front seam.It took several years of sealing roofs before I attempted using the 6" tape, it does a nice job but it can go south quickly if you do not keep it stretched out and prevent the tape from flipping back on itself. If you can handle the 6" tape, it does a better job, with twice the overlap on the roof seams.Larry 1 Likes
Re: Roof reseal (The dreaded) Reply #23 – October 10, 2020, 04:05:59 pm Thanks Larry, we found that when two persons were applying the tape one person would hold the tape taught while the other would press the tape down from the center outward. The photo was taken later since we were using all of our hands applying the tape. This was more difficult when we had a surface under the tape that was not uniform and flat. Also I would suggest that more tape then the length of seams require for mistakes. We did a few times have the tape stick to itself before we got started and had to toss it. Now I have extra in case I need to do an emergency repair on the road! Karen~Liam 98 ~ MB NinA
Re: Roof reseal (The dreaded) Reply #24 – October 10, 2020, 05:49:07 pm Quote from: Karen & Liam - October 10, 2020, 03:04:01 pmWe first cleaned our roof and then used a "finds tool" or ribrating tool to remove all old sealent on the front seam.What is a finds tool? You "ribrating tool" - did you mean an oscillating tool?Thanks, Jane
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