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Topic: Escape Hatch fail (Read 231 times) previous topic - next topic
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Escape Hatch fail
Greetings!

1st, the crank gear mechanism on the Escape Hatch stripped after years of being cranked down to calm the rattling. We replaced that.

After said replacement, the Hatch would not fully close leaving quite an open gap. DH noticed that foam/weatherstripping had deteriorated to the point of uselessness. The project in the next day or two will be to replace the weatherstipping.

We could not find foam/weatherstripping thick enough to do the job. Our solution will be to pancake several layers of weatherstripping and afix that.  It will not be pretty.

Any ideas?

Thanx!

Paul and Nancy
2008 TK
She's a redhead, alright. Wilmaaa!
Re: Escape Hatch fail
Reply #1 –
Was there a gap before you replace the bad crank?
There is more than one type of crank on the market and you may have the wrong one, that doesn't pull the hatch cover all the way down.
Did you match the old crank mechanism to the new, laying them side by side?

I have found insulation that fits at the local home centers, don't remember the measurements off hand.
If you go to an RV shop to compared cranks, see if they have the proper insulation for the hatch.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Escape Hatch fail
Reply #2 –
Hi Larry,
In retrospect, we were cranking on the crank to obtain a good seal that would prevent the hatch from rattling.  Unbeknownst to us, we weren't obtaining a seal because the weather stripping had flatten out and deteriorated to the point of uselessness. Hence a gap.

We bought two different crank assemblies and I am confident that we installed the correct one (yes, a side-by-side comparison).

Now we just have to fill the gap.

Nancy

2008 TK
She's a redhead, alright. Wilmaaa!
Re: Escape Hatch fail
Reply #3 –
Don't know which model you have, but I did it on out '83, and used a universal replacement  type that was designed for car doors. It slipped over the edge, and had an hollow tube to provide the seal.

Steve
2004 FL
2013 Honda Fit
Re: Escape Hatch fail
Reply #4 –
Hmm: I'll look into that.

Thanks, Steve!
2008 TK
She's a redhead, alright. Wilmaaa!
Re: Escape Hatch fail
Reply #6 –
If it's any help, I used one of these for a handle to avoid head injury when getting into the overhead bed.
Ventline BVD042115 Black Plastic Knob Handle



Safe travels,
Langton
2002 27" RB
 
Re: Escape Hatch fail
Reply #8 –
Quote from: Steve  - 
This is the sort of seal:
Amazon.com: Door rubber strip horizontal bulb Trim Seal car weather stripping...

The seal shown places the seal on the side instead of the top edge, what is needed is this type of push-on seal.
Not sure what size to used without spending some time measuring.
McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr has a wide range of seals.
McMaster-Carr

Larry
As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Escape Hatch fail
Reply #9 –
Quote from: Larry W  - 
The seal shown places the seal on the side instead of the top edge, what is needed is this type of push-on seal.

Larry
Larry, I mounted the seal with the 'tube' on the outside of the hatch frame, where it nicely sealed the gap with the lid, which is slightly larger and whose rim is adjacent to the frame when closed. The side seal worked better than a top seal on three sides. The front still requires a foam strip on the lid.

Steve
2004 FL
2013 Honda Fit
Re: Escape Hatch fail
Reply #10 –
Thanks, Steve.
We'll go that route and use the pancaked strips for the front.
Paul and Nancy
2008 TK
She's a redhead, alright. Wilmaaa!