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Leveling and other settling in issues
Hi all,

Today I moved my LD back to my house and plugged everything in. I realized today I'd never even hooked up the water, though I have no idea why. It seems to work fine and other than an initial dribble at the inlet on the rig, which went away after tightening, no issue there.

But what about leveling for the fridge? I am parked in my driveway on a slight slope. The level on the dash shows within 1 mark of 0, so I'm good from side to side. But front to back is not good. I also got a mini level for my fridge (suggested at the RV shop), and it's way off. I don't want to risk messing up the fridge so I want to level out my LD before turning on the fridge. She is nose down, so I pulled her on to a single layer of bricks (with more built up in front of it to help keep her in place), but it's still not close to level.

My dad said either get ramps or leveling jacks (I think that's what he said).  What's the consensus here? What's the safest and most secure way of leveling? And how do you level one side and not the other, etc?

Another question- anyone know if you can swap out the hideous fluorescent tubes in the longer overhead lights with LED tubes? I went to Home Depot and the LED had to match the ballasts. Ugh, ok....

And finally, just a cool thing- I have Wyze security cameras that you can monitor from a cell phone. My dad suggested trying one as a back up camera. They require a WIFI connection. So I set up my Verizon MIFI in the RV and connected the Wyze camera- now I can see great behind my RV! Only problem is it is like looking at it as if you were looking out the window, so things are on the wrong side. But it's still great to have that blind spot removed.  AND I can run the Wyze camera off an external battery back when the 120V is not available (like when I'm driving). Very cool. I also like that I have security cameras in my RV while I'm staying somewhere else. Nice way to keep tabs on it!

Lisa G
1991 22' LD Multi-Plan
Re: Leveling and other settling in issues
Reply #1 –

These levels are common:  Tri-Lynx 00015 Lynx Levelers - 10 Pack  You can put more under one tire than another tire, so easier to get them them height you want them.  They are reasonably small and light.

Other people use pieces of wood or flat pieces of plastic (what came with our rig).

Do a search on led lights and you will find good information on how to put LED lights into those fluorescent lights.

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Jane & Scott
Currently have a 1989 TK  LD we did a lot of upgrades on.
Bigfoot 25RQ Twin on order with early summer 2024 ETA

Our smartphone autocorrects into very poor English.
 We disclaim the illusion of ignorance this creates as we have enough ignorance we rightly claim.
Re: Leveling and other settling in issues
Reply #2 –
Thanks!  Mine came with a couple pieces of wood. But one got lost during my move and the one left isn't really high enough to level where it's parked right now.

I will check out the link.

Thank you,

Lisa
1991 22' LD Multi-Plan
 
Re: Leveling and other settling in issues
Reply #3 –
Hi, Lisa--

You are accomplishing so much--congratulations on your adventure!  Many folks do well & swear by the ease of using leveling blocks, & my late farmer father made his own out of 2x12 lumber for their Pace Arrow class A back in the '80s...of course Dad had Mother to help set up, so he didn't have to GOAL for every movement.

I'm a solo, & chose to have Big Foot levelers installed--they put the controller under the driver's seat with about two feet of cable so it easily reaches up into my lap, or between the front seats when I'm in the lounge area.  I can put my Feet down from the comfort of the rig without having to get out in rain or snow or bitter cold wind, & though I've so far not been in a situation that felt sketchy, I could pick up my Feet & go pretty quickly without having to get off the blocks, if need be.  My Feet operate in pairs, so I can easily adjust front-back/side-side...I use Dad's large level (about 18" long--easier to read from a distance) on the table console & have a small torpedo level I check the fridge with.  Only at my aunt's retirement facility did I need to put anything under the Feet, because the street was crowned so much that I put a Lynx block + 2x12 on the curbside front & back.

Re: hooking up to water.  You may want to read some of the cautionary tales of misadventures on the site...at the least, consider turning off your supply line when you're away from the rig; I just use out of my fresh tank & replenish as needed.  Joan's mantra applies: YMMV.

Thx for sharing your journey.

Lynne
Lynne
LDy Lulubelle, Green '05 31' TB
Lilly, the 4-Legged Alarm
Re: Leveling and other settling in issues
Reply #4 –
Quote from: Lynne Broyles-Greenwood  - 

I'm a solo, & chose to have Big Foot levelers installed--they put the controller under the driver's seat with about two feet of cable so it easily reaches up into my lap, or between the front seats when I'm in the lounge area.

Re: hooking up to water.  You may want to read some of the cautionary tales of misadventures on the site...at the least, consider turning off your supply line when you're away from the rig; I just use out of my fresh tank & replenish as needed.  Joan's mantra applies: YMMV.

Thx for sharing your journey.

Lynne

Hi Lynne,

Thanks for that info. For now I think I'll try out the cheap and easy leveling solutions until I figure out my long-term RV goals. The Big Foot things sound interesting.

As for the water- I like to err on the side of caution so I definitely turned the water off before I left!  I also got one of those pressure regulators which I apparently erroneously connected to the tap itself before connecting the hose instead of to the inlet on my RV. But since it should regulate the pressure either way, I think it'll be ok. I'll switch it out when I go back.

I also turned off the propane.

Since i need to be able to use the fridge this week, I will probably just order those Lynx levelers via Amazon prime so I can get them ASAP.

Hopefully they'll work. Seems like I may need a lot, since the bricks are almost 3" high and haven't been enough. :/

Lisa G.

1991 22' LD Multi-Plan
Re: Leveling and other settling in issues
Reply #5 –
Sorry- another mundane Q for which I found no answer from past posts- 

Recommendations for battery operated carbon monoxide/smoke detectors?

I have been unable to find a propane alarm in my LD. I don't know where it would be, but I've looked along the baseboards and see nothing.  There is an old smoke detector on the ceiling with a missing battery, so I figure I should just replace it with a smoke/Carbon monoxide detector. The smoke detector is not hard wired.

Thoughts? Brands? Links?

Lisa G.

1991 22' LD Multi-Plan
Re: Leveling and other settling in issues
Reply #6 –
Lisa, can you post some photos of your current parking situation?
Greg & Victoria
2017 Mid-Bath  “Nocona” towing a manual 2015 Forester
Previously a 1985 TK
SKP #61264
Re: Leveling and other settling in issues
Reply #7 –

I use this one in the rig and in the house.

First Alert Smoke Detector and Carbon Monoxide Detector Alarm | Battery...

Links to the LPG alarm; white and 'brown' versions:

Amazon.com: MTI Industries 30-442-P-WT Propane Gas Alarm – White: Gateway

Amazon.com: MTI Industries 30-442-P-BR Safe T Alert 30 Series Propane/LP Gas...

Check several sites for the best prices on Lynx levelers; prices and shipping charges do vary. I have used Lynx levelers for many years; they are inexpensive, versatile, tough, and provide a wide-enough surface to support the entire footprint of the tire. I suggest not getting the cheap yellow things from CW (or anyplace else) because they often crack and/or shatter. Also, be sure to block both duals if levelers are used under the rear wheels.

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2003 TK has a new home
Re: Leveling and other settling in issues
Reply #8 –

Leveling.
It's about the refrigerator.    The LD manual explains that if water drains normally then its ok.   Off by a bubble or so is not a big deal. 

Fresh Water Tank and Water Pump.
The large majority of us live out of the fresh water tank.   We fill the tank and use the internal water pump to get fresh water.  In fact the only time I ever used the outside water hookup was the first day I owned 'Baxter'.    After that it always been the tank.
I do suggest buying a water alarm.   Water outside the water tank is no friend of the rv unless you have it contained. 
First Alert Wa100 Battery Operated Water Alarm - - Amazon.com

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personal fine art photo stuff
TF Mack | Flickr
It's all good .......
2014 Twin King
Re: Leveling and other settling in issues
Reply #9 –
"Off by a bubble or so is not a big deal."
-----
Operating an absorption, 'gravity-powered' RV refrigerator out of level, particularly out of level front to rear, will shorten the life of the refrigerator. While it may be true to say that 'modern' RV refrigerators are more forgiving of off-level operation than older refrigerators, the tubes are still prone to blockage if the refrigerator is consistently operated off-level.

An occasional 'half a bubble off' orientation for short periods may not affect the performance or longevity much, but operating off-level can create a lot of heat, and particularly if there's poor ventilation. The sodium chromate (anti-corrosive for the ammonia refrigerant) can crystallize and block the pipes of the cooling unit; a particularly vulnerable area for blockage is in the narrow percolator tube.

If there's a smell of ammonia or yellow powder in the refrigerator compartment, the cooling unit is toast. A cooling unit may be able to be repaired, but it's expensive and finding competent repair services may be very difficult.

YMMV, as always, but try hard to stay 'in the bubble'.

2003 TK has a new home
Re: Leveling and other settling in issues
Reply #10 –
Lisa,

We do not have automatic levelers on our RB. With this in mind, I go to great lengths to maintain a very level rig when the fridge is operating.

This topic was covered during the last Morro Bay GT. The “Gold Standard” for assuring a properly leveled LD was to place a “Bulls Eye” bubble level in the bottom of the refrigerator. Simply remove the two trays for the vegetables and place the level centered on the bottle of the fridge.

I shoot for perfectly centered but am pleased to get a 1/4 to a 1/2 bubble off center. I won’t quit until I’m within those parameters.

I made leveling blocks from 2x6 pine boards (my next set will be of laminated plywood for added durability) that I have designed to be tri-level and pinned together with plastic dowels about 1/8” in diameter. I also use the plastic levelers purchased at the Mothership when needed.

Here is a shot of our blocks and usage. Don’t mind the squirrel he’s just checking on my work. 🧐

Keeping a level head and rig,

Kent
2015 27' RB "MissB.Haven"
Re: Leveling and other settling in issues
Reply #11 –
Kent, I see you had a furry helper. 😂
Daughter of the first Lazy Bones
Hitting the road on my own and with a friend 🚐 while reporting back to the Lazy Bones at home 🛋

2 Lazy Bones - Home
Re: Leveling and other settling in issues
Reply #12 –
Yes indeed. He works for peanuts. 🤗
2015 27' RB "MissB.Haven"
Re: Leveling and other settling in issues
Reply #13 –
Lisa, you can usually get a bag of Lynx blocks at larger Walmarts.

Bob
2011 MB
Re: Leveling and other settling in issues
Reply #14 –

We carry two leveling ramps and two set of Lynx leveling blocks, or what I call the adult legos.
With the ramps and blocks, there are times when everything is used to level the rig.
The ramps are made of 3/4" and 1" exterior plywood, with internal blocking, and are coated with marine epoxy, they need to be strong to support the weight.

Make sure to buy 'Lynx' brand blocks, they hold up where the cheaper blocks can shatter, especially in very cold weather.
Amazon.com: Tri-Lynx 00015 Lynx Levelers - 10 Pack: Automotive


Plywood ramps- carried in LD | Ramps dimensions 30 inches Lo… | Flickr

Also carried are two 18" X 18"- 3/4" plywood boards, for use under the Lynx blocks to prevent them from sinking when the soil is very soft or when using jacks on soft ground.

Do yourself and the your rig and favor and not use the city water connection. The inlet valves develop tough to fix leaks and the entire LD's water system is exposed to whatever water pressure surges exist, unless  a high quality pressure regulator is used.
Most of us old timers only use water from the onboard tank, supplied by the water pump, refilling when necessary .
Other than a past failed water pump, our 16 year old LD's original water system is fully intact.

Larry

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Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Leveling and other settling in issues
Reply #15 –
HELP.

I got the lynx levelers and blocks. But I can't get this damn thing level!! I've tried various heights on each sides and based on the level in the fridge, the front left needs a bit of height. But no matter what I do ( add to one side, remove from other, go forward, move back) I can't her any better than what I have without the blocks. What am I doing wrong??

1991 22' LD Multi-Plan
Re: Leveling and other settling in issues
Reply #16 –
HELP.

I got the lynx levelers and blocks. But I can't get this damn thing level!! I've tried various heights on each sides and based on the level in the fridge, the front left needs a bit of height. But no matter what I do ( add to one side, remove from other, go forward, move back) I can't her any better than what I have without the blocks. What am I doing wrong??

1991 22' LD Multi-Plan
Re: Leveling and other settling in issues
Reply #17 –
My Lazy Daze book said the one sure spot that was level was the flooring in front of the range. I got that level perfect than I put a couple levels on the frig door and the wall beside the frig and attached them. I now level to those levels and can see at a glance where I need to adjust be it front, back, left or right. The first time is always the worst because you have to wrap your head around what the bubble is telling you. I like the kind of level you have over your drivers door you can tell exactly how many blocks to use. Some times it is just easier to start all over, maybe drink a beer and it'll just fall in place.

It might not be right but it works for me....

Jon......
1994 MB
Re: Leveling and other settling in issues
Reply #18 –
Lisa, the rig has to be leveled, usually by taking it to an empty parking lot and using a couple of 'carpenter's levels' or the like to square everything side-to-side and front to back,  before placing the level markers in the rig; if the rig is not level before the markers are placed, and the markers (bubble or graduated levels) aren't synched with the levels the carpenter's levels indicate, the level markers will not read correctly. It doesn't work just to plop the levels on the door or dashboard or in the refrigerator or in front of the stove or anywhere else; at least, it did not for me.

The instructions that came with the levels should have contained this information.
2003 TK has a new home
Re: Leveling and other settling in issues
Reply #19 –
Quote from: meandthedogs  - 
But no matter what I do ( add to one side, remove from other, go forward, move back) I can't her any better than what I have without the blocks. What am I doing wrong??

Here is the method:
1) Level side-to-side - On the low side, place one block under each rear wheel and the front wheel, and recheck. If still low, add another block to each of those wheels. Continue until level side-to-side.
2) Level front-to-back - at the low end (we'll say it's the front, since that is easiest) add an additional block under each front wheel until level.

Note that this method works perfectly, but if the ground is soft allowing the blocks to sink, you will be fighting a losing battle.

Steve
2004 FL
2013 Honda Fit
Re: Leveling and other settling in issues
Reply #20 –
When leveling our rig (RB), I actually place my bulls eye bubble level between the sink and stove top. Of course this location might work well for a RB but not for other models, this is why Larry mentioned at the MBGT to simply place the level in the fridge as I mentioned earlier.

I start my leveling by placing the level (wherever appropriate for you) with no blocks under the tires. I then lift the level slowly around its perimeter and watch in which direction the bubble travels to achieve the center of the bullseye. Keep in mind that the circular level still represents the four corners of the rig front to back and left to right.

If I need to lift the front right corner of the level to get the bubble to go to center, I put a block at a time under the front right tire. I make a mental note of how well the block has effected the bubbles journey to center. If it hasn’t reached center yet, I’ll add another block under that tire and check again.

Sometimes I only need to raise one front tire. Sometimes I’ll need to block both rear dually sets and a front tire. You just need to practice a bit. With time, you’ll get better at the job.

Depending on what the bubble shows at first will determine my approach to leveling the rig. Jalama Beach had me spend 30 minutes leveling. I actually removed my blocks and started over again once or twice. It can definitely become a challenge.

It’s no wonder so many RV owners have powered levelers. Here’s a quick video in case you haven’t viewed one already. https://youtu.be/dnH3ZQEEyWY
You’ll notice that in the video they are pulling forward onto the levelers. I always back onto the leveling blocks. (note: I do not use the device advertised in the video but the jist of the video still demonstrates the leveling technique)

Your drive way is a good place to practice. Good luck. And don’t give up.

Kent
2015 27' RB "MissB.Haven"
Re: Leveling and other settling in issues
Reply #21 –
Quote from: Joan  - 
Lisa, the rig has to be leveled, usually by taking it to an empty parking lot and using a couple of 'carpenter's levels' or the like to square everything side-to-side and front to back,  before placing the level markers in the rig; ...
The instructions that came with the levels should have contained this information.

Hi,

Those levels were there when I bought the LD. I thought they were part of the original package. The only one I've added is the tiny one I'm trying in the fridge.

I did my best and got as close as I could. I'm limited in where i can move in that confined area. I got more Lynx levelers today but I am not very comfortable with the placement, though they say no more than 5" and it's just at or below that.

I have turned on the fridge. I left for the evening but it had been on for about 30 minutes and did not feel like it had cooled down at all, so maybe it's not even going to work now. That would figure. I guess I'll find out when I return tomorrow.

A new issue has arisen- I emptied the tiny bit of water in the fresh tank and tried to fill it with a hose. I don't know what's wrong now, but I could not run the water any more than a few seconds without the water being spit back out at me. I swear there is a troll living in my LD.

Now what?? Why can't I fill the tank??
1991 22' LD Multi-Plan
Re: Leveling and other settling in issues
Reply #22 –
Lisa, re: the water - try filling slower.  I had a TT with a similar filler as the LD and too high volume/pressure filled the tubing and caused backup like on the freeway when it hits saturation.  Also, the tubing might have a kink that will obstruct higher flow rates.

On leveling- it appears the rear end is on black gravel.  Is that stable enough for the lynx levelers, or do they sink a bit into the ground?  If they do, get a piece of plywood to distribute the weight.  I think Larry W. carries some 18"x18" pieces for that.

Joel & Terry Wiley
dog Zeke
2013  31 IB   Orwan   / 2011 CRV Tow'd LWEROVE
Re: Leveling and other settling in issues
Reply #23 –
Lisa,  From the photos of the levels the rig looks ok level wise side to side but the front end of the motor home still needs to go higher.  You could try putting those bricks under the orange level squares to give yourself some more height.   Just group the bricks together so they are flat as possible and under the whole length of the orange level squares.   Or go out and buy yourself more squares or some wood as wide or wider then the squares.
  As per filling the water tank, turn down the water hose valve so it fills slower.  With practice you won't get a shower.  When the tank is full it will shoot water back out at you.  When the tank is full and you turn on the pump it is normal for it to sputter and spray everywhere as the air gets pumped out of the lines when you open any of the faucets if you had run the tank empty.  Again with practice you won't get a shower.
  When turning the fridge on it can take overnight or over 24 hours for the inside to cool down.  If there is a lot of warm contents inside the fridge it will take even longer.   RV fridges take longer to cool then house fridges.

JohnF
2003 T/K and 1987 MP w/Roof Sleeper(for sale)
2003 TK
Re: Leveling and other settling in issues
Reply #24 –
Lisa with the Lynx blocks and the photos.  With the photos with more blocks under the tires you want to move that orange stop forward a half block so that the tire will lay flat on the whole square.  The way it is in the photo it looks like the back part of your tire is hanging in the air.  Maybe someone else can explain it better or maybe it is just the photo.

JohnF
2003 T/K and 1987 MP w/Roof Sleeper(for sale)
2003 TK