Lazy Daze Owners' Group

Hi all. What roof sealant would you recommend?

I have no personal experience with different sealants, but Lazy Daze currently uses Loctite PL Window Door & Siding Polyurethane Sealant. That is what they recommended we use when we were there on 12/20/18. I just joined this forum and started reading Larry's posts today. He clearly has a lot of experience with this, and provides a lot of good how-to advice in other posts. We plan to strip the old sealant and reseal with polyurethane, but the test section I started today proves that getting the old stuff off can get really sticky (literally.)

. We plan to strip the old sealant and reseal with polyurethane, but the test section I started today proves that getting the old stuff off can get really sticky (literally.)

When going over the seals it’s best to remove any air bubbles in the current seals, I couldn’t see a reason to remove the original sealant as it was still doing its job and the Eternabond lays down over it very nicely.

As far as the vents and ladder goes, clean off the old seals and then just apply a nice level coating of dicor, I’ve personally removed a vent and I’m not sure how that would ever leak considering how thoroughly they are attached. Going over stuff with dicor is probably your best bet.

 
I have to order everything in our neck of the woods, we have a 26 1/2 ' mid bath and I'm going to order the sealant for the windows and the back caps. Is there a gut feel of how far a 10 oz tube of the 5200 will go?  We have 8 windows plus the two back caps. I don't want to short myself but also don't want too much extra.

Our nearest Lowes is an hour and a half but I might make a run for the heck of it. It's  snowmobile season so I don't want to waste too much time traveling. I figure I'll get my materials together and go for it when I get a chance. Will the 5200 flow from a decent calking gun?

Tried to post this a few days ago to a old thread but timed out and couldn't find the draft...
Hi Larry, I am now embarking on a roof re-seal on my own. We had Vince at the Mothership look at the roof for us before we left CA with our "new" 2001 26.5MB. He said it was the original sealant and should have been done about 7-10 years ago. He said "you can do it yourself" when you get home, just make sure to get ALL the old stuff off, down to clean aluminum/plastic (front) or firm paint, first by scraping, then using acetone to remove any remnants/residue. On 1/6/19 I worked for about 2 hours with hand tools and a hair dryer and managed to remove about 1 foot of old sealant. Then I decided to do some research here in the Forums. THANK YOU ALL FOR THE GREAT TIPS!

Follow up today:

Monday morning I went shopping again... LOVE my new Rockwell Oscillating Multi-Tool! (thanks for the suggestion Larry) Works beautifully between the old 2001 sealant and the alu roof, but not as well on the plastic cover along the front. Maybe it is the angle I have to work from, the screws, and the lack of experience, but it seemed that light heat (hairdryer) and pulling worked better on the plastic. Heat and pulling literally separated sealant from the plastic with no remaining residue on day 1's test strip.

Here is how the test area went with photos I'm putting this in a google album because "save draft" says that it won't save attachments: LD 2001 26.5 MB Roof Reseal - Google Photos
You can see the descriptions of the process if you double click the first photo and then step through them one at a time. Apparently google albums don't have photo subtitles. 

These are the products I am using:
Rockwell Oscillating Multi-Tool for scraping the old sealant.
Hairdryer & plastic scraper & pulling to remove old sealant from plastic fairing.
Klean Strip KWIK-STRIP Fast Paint & Varnish Stripper, brush on, let sit for 15-45 minutes, then scrape with rigid metal beveled edge 1-1/4" scraper.
Klean Strip Paint Stripper After Wash & rag, to wipe surface clean.
Acetone & rag to wipe surface again (recommended by Vince at the Mothership before applying new sealant.)
Loctite PRO LINE Window Door & Siding Polyurethane Sealant and flexible plastic 2" blade.

Fun fact, eternabond tape can be peeled off, and then a new piece put right back down, the grey sealant residue will literally join with the new piece of tape so there’s no reason to worry about removing it.

At the seam at the front cap the previous owner used some Dicor to overlay the joint and his job is intact although I thought he was a little stingy with it. So here is my question and then I'll move on. Is there a problem using Eternabond over the well cleaned Dicor that is still intact? Will it adhere with out worries?

do you remove the sealant all the way across or just at the corners? Could a guy clean up the corners and reseal with 5200 then give a good coat of Dicor. Ours seems to have a metal strip across the front joint, the length wise sides I'm sure can be cleaned and taped.