new to me 2001 MB November 20, 2018, 09:11:01 pm The wife and I just bought a 2001 MB out in CA. We live in NC. We're going to drive across country for the holidays. We had a relative in CA go check the unit out and they didn't find any issues. I called the factory to ask if they had any factory service manuals, or if they had inspections they could do. They said they don't have a factory service manual per se. That the unit would have come w/ all the manuals for the equipment that was in it. I spoke to Vince and he said they really don't offer an inspection service, but we could see about bringing it by to have them check the roof, etc.We've done a bit of RV'ing before, but nothing like a cross country trip. I'm a shade tree mechanic (kept a fiat x1/9 for a daily driver for years) and studied electrical engineering at college, so I think I'm ok to handle stuff that might come up.Does anyone have any suggestions of what needs to be gone over w/ a fine tooth comb or any other hints / tips for stuff we should check out before starting the trip?Thanks in advanceSean
Re: new to me 2001 MB Reply #1 – November 20, 2018, 09:51:21 pm Sean, Welcome to the family. Since you’ve already made the purchase, we all hope your new-to-u LD is all you want it to be.Here a check list I posted about a year ago. I believe it was originally posted by Joan/JCT. It’s pretty extensive. Enjoy your LD.Kent Note: The following list is not my own but a paste from LDO files.Kent Used Lazy Daze purchase checklist 1999 Lazy Daze 23.5' TK• Ask owner to turn on refrigerator (on LP gas) the day before inspection. There should be propane to test appliances.• Wear clothes suitable for crawling under rig. Bring gloves, headlamp, small night light to test AC plugs (or a polarity checker). Have a tarp available for crawling under coach.Coach• Does the rig sit level on level ground? No listing or leaning? Remember that it won't be perfectly level unless fully loaded, but severe listing should be checked out further. • Make sure ladder is stable. Climb up on the roof and inspect the seams and roof penetrations. The sealant cracks naturally as it dries, but look for anyplace where it has cracked through or pieces are missing. If you find any significant gaps, check the inside ceiling carefully for any soft spots. Check to see if the previous owner tried to seal a leak using some different type of caulking. • Check roof for bubbles or very small whitish spots. This may indicate electrolysis, a condition caused by dampness inside the coach wall. Electrolysis erodes the aluminum panel until small holes are worn through. • Check solar panel. Solar panels could have cracked glass from rocks, hail, pinecones etc. Look for moisture inside the panels, corrosion inside on the metal collectors. • Check air conditioner cover, TV antenna, all plumbing vents, refrigerator vent, roof vents. They should all be intact. Skylights? Screens? • Pay attention to leading and trailing edges of roof as that's where damage from low hanging trees, etc. is most likely. • Sight down the sides of rig and look for uneven surfaces. LD's aluminum siding has a rippling appearance - that's normal. Large bulges are abnormal. • Also inspect the outside paneling for electrolysis while checking for scratches, dings, signs of impact and paint fading/damage. Are there any stains, rust spots or areas of corrosion? Check that the Phillips screws are snug on the outside trim pieces. • Check end caps for gaps. The end cap trim piece in the rear corners at eye level will often look bad. It's mostly cosmetic.• Check wheel wells to see signs of tire blow-out damage. While here, check & make note of tire pressures. Check condition of sidewalls and tread. Look for abnormal or uneven wear on the tires. (I already know age of tires) R. front ____ L. front ____ R. rear/outside ____ R. rear/inside ____ L. rear/outside ____ L. rear/inside ____ • Look at the rubber seals on the windows and the coach entry door. Look for cracking or separation from glass. Check caulking. Look for cracking or gaps. Have the windows been caulked or re-sealed? This may indicate that they had leaks in the past, or it may be appropriate preventive maintenance. Check that the window weep hole covers are in place. Missing covers let dirt accumulate and plug up the hole. • Generator - check for obvious signs of oil leaks or other external damage. Run the generator (later).• Awning - make sure it deploys. Check for tears or mildew.• Step (electric or manual) - make sure it works. • Storage compartments. Make sure all the locks function and latches are in place.• Check the battery compartment for acid corrosion. • INTERIOR: Check for water damage everywhere. Inspect closely for dry rot from leaking seams, roof penetrations, or windows. Look very carefully wherever water could get in and collect. Check around all windows, vents, and hatches. Look *everywhere* for discoloration or dampness in the interior paneling. Look for rust spots on drape hooks, which could indicate a high level of moisture by the window. Look at the ceiling for discoloration or stains.Look closely at the paneling below each window, all the way to the floor. Running a hand over the paneling may be the only way to find the soft spots. The affected areas would be soft and/or brittle.While you're checking the interior, be alert for unpleasant smells. Mildew and mold are good signs of water penetration.• Climb in cabover bed. Feel under mattress for any damp or soft areas. Check for any signs of leaks around windows and escape hatch. Make sure hatch opens & closes tightly.• Check the bathroom floor around the shower and toilet for soft spots. Check vinyl for peeling or bubbles.• Check all overhead cabinets for leaks from the ceiling.• Check lower cabinets for signs of damp or mold. • Look for patched carpet, new floor coverings, or an uneven floor. These may indicate water damage. Listen for creaking that may indicate the sub-floor is damaged. If it's very cold, some creaking may be normal.• Open and close every window. Make sure that the cranks all work, and that windows close properly and seal. Do they slide freely? (they may not slide like a puck on ice, but should not be severely stuck) Are the window locks working? Are the screens in place? Check all blinds.• Open vents. Turn on fans.• Pull out all drawers and open all cabinets. All should operate smoothly, and have no unpleasant odors. Make sure all handles, pulls and hinges are present. Check that the dinette or couch that converts to a bed can still do so. Use a flashlight to check for discolorations or stains.• Lift up and inspect all cushions, including the cab-over bed. Broken frames, worn or stained fabrics, or sagging cushions will be expensive to replace.• Turn on an inside faucet and then turn on the water pump. Pump should prime immediately and water should flow. If water heater tank isn't full, let pump fill it by leaving hot water faucet open. Once you have water flowing from both hot and cold faucets, turn off faucets. Pump should shut off automatically. Wait a minute or two... pump should not cycle again. If it does, suspect leak in plumbing system. • Check tank level panel. Fresh water should be full and both waste tanks empty.• First, make sure that water heater is not bypassed with a water heater bypass kit (used to bypass water heater for winterization.. if you're not sure, ask.) and is full of water. Light water heater.• While waiting for water heater, test cold water in kitchen sink, bathroom sink, shower & the toilet. Make sure all the water drains quickly and easily. Check tank level panel again.• Back to water heater. Check for: * Pilot light (if so equipped) stays lit. * If Direct Spark ignition, make sure control switch works. * Main burner works. * leaks (especially around drain plug and pressure release valve) * If electric equipped, check for operation. * Let it heat up and check for shutoff if possible. • Turn on the furnace and set thermostat above current temperature. It may take a while to light. • Go outside and check flames for the water heater, furnace & fridge. Check that the flames are noisy and robust. A proper mix will burn loudly with a blue flame, not lazy with a yellow flame. It can be adjusted by loosening the small Phillips screw and sliding the air adjust collar. Usually that can be left alone unless you are over about 6000' and are having a soot problem. • Make sure hot air is coming out of all heater vents. There are two forced air vents: one facing the bathroom and one right around the corner from it, facing the cab. They are round brown vents about 5" in diameter, so they're easily recognizable. One duct goes right underneath the drawer under the refrigerator. Pull out the drawer, pull at the stop forcefully. You can see the hose and it should be OK. Check that it isn't collapsed either. • Water heater should be ready now. Check hot water in both sinks & the shower. Fill both the black and gray tanks and drive over some bumps (later). This makes sure the tanks don't leak, and that the supports holding them up are in good shape. • Turn on generator and let it run for 15-30 minutes. Make sure it doesn't stall or stutter.• Check all interior and exterior lights • Light all range burners. Light oven pilot light and turn oven on. • Test microwave • Check that roof A/C is blowing cold air, then turn it off. • Turn off generator. It should stop quickly and not run on for another minute.• Check that refrigerator is cold (best if you have wireless thermometer to check temp-38F frige/0-5F freezer). If the fridge has been running on AC, turn switch to LP and listen for flame to light.Go outside and check fridge access door. The flame should stay on. • Check solar controller. Hopefully you'll see a black panel about 5" x 7" with an LCD panel and some buttons. About all you can do is look to see that at least a few amps are coming down from the roof. even with a small panel you should see at least 3 or 4 amps at noon on a clear day. * The Solar controller should show the current voltage of your batteries, and a switch to show the charging current. Watch the voltage increase when you plug in the shoreline. The fluorescents won't change brightness, they have internal voltage regulators. • Activate levelers. Make sure they all deploy. Leave them deployed while you inspect underneath the rig.• Look underneath at the bottom of the rig at the exposed wood frame areas for dry rot, particularly around the entrance step and behind the rear wheels. You should look for collision damage, things that have come loose, or after-market items that weren't installed well. Check the gas hose to the generator for cracks. Check for signs of water, oil or fluid leaks. • Look at all axles and suspension components. Are there any bent or broken parts? Major rust? Dangling wires? Missing shock absorbers?• Retract levelers. • Plug the shore power cord in and make sure it works. Check all AC outlets inside with night light (better w/polarity checker).• Raise, rotate, lower TV antenna and test for function • Test any Smoke, Propane and/or CO detectors• Dump valves. Check for leaks. Dump black tank, then grey tank. Make sure everything works easily.Engine and drivetrain• Start the engine. Exhaust blue smoke = burning oil, white smoke = burning coolant, black smoke = running rich. Listen for exhaust leaks (ticking or obvious exhaust gas escaping). This will all have been checked by mechanic, but do this anyway to hear how engine sounds. Go somewhere flat.• Make sure hood release works.• Check all the fluids under the hood to see if if they smell burned or extra foul, or look really dirty. Again, just double check all fluids.• Does hood close securely?• Drive the coach down the road and find out if it accelerates smoothly, pulls, vibrates, etc. Make sure the in-dash A/C and heat, radio, CB and other electric equipment work properly. Go over some bumps to jog the water in the tanks.• Evaluate the condition of the cab. Are the seats worn, seat cushions squashed, dashboard cover cracked? Are all seatbelts in place? • Crawl under coach again and check for water tank leaks. Check that the supports holding both tanks up are in good shape. Check levelers - they should still be fully retracted.• See how well engine restarts after about an hour sitting. 2 Likes
Re: new to me 2001 MB Reply #2 – November 21, 2018, 02:10:28 am Hi Sean; Welcome to the Forum. More history about your coach would help us determine what might be up. Do you have maintenance records? Last year I bought a 2001 MidBath for some friends. Renovated it here in San Diego. They are starting their second winter with it in Florida right now. They escaped that snowstorm in the north, just in time. Kent's compilation is very extensive, but you will find out more things about the rig as you go. How many miles it has traveled, how many hours on the generator, added options, factory or not, and of course, we love pictures too. RonB
Re: new to me 2001 MB Reply #3 – November 21, 2018, 09:02:24 am Before I drove mine home 1500 miles from San Diego I brought it into an RV shop and had him change the engine oil, transmission fluid, check belts and hoses do a lube and check the brakes. Took my time going home camping along the way and had a great time. Good luck with your LD and your trip home.
Re: new to me 2001 MB Reply #4 – November 21, 2018, 10:34:20 am First --- Welcome abroad. Second -- Others have posted go information. I'd recommend changing all the fluids IE oil, transmission, brakes etc. Check the tire manufacture date, maybe even get a new set as you have no real idea how they were used. My rough guess this cost is in the area of $2 to $3000 out of pocket. Trust me it isn't going to get any cheaper <smile>. If you are planning what I call the southern route IE I-10 it's a busy main freeway but there are many many very interesting places to camp and enjoy. By the time you get to NC you will have 'tested' all the systems. Please keep us up to date. We all enjoy each others trips.
Re: new to me 2001 MB Reply #5 – November 21, 2018, 11:06:21 am Quote from: henness - November 20, 2018, 09:11:01 pmI'm a shade tree mechanic (kept a fiat x1/9 for a daily driver for years) and studied electrical engineering at college, so I think I'm ok to handle stuff that might come up.Thanks in advanceSeanWelcome to Lazy Daze ownership and the forum, Sean, from a fellow previous Fiat X1/9 owner! That comment made me laugh. I owned my screaming yellow 1974 X1/9 in college in New Hampshire. It mysteriously stopped running one fall so I parked it next to our apartment and left it. By January it was literally frozen in a block of ice to the ground. After dumping pan after pan of boiling water around the car, my roommates and I were finally able to rock it enough to push it out of the ice leaving a nice impression of it behind. The mechanic got it running again simply by adding water to the battery and charging it. When running that was a super fun car but a magnet for speeding tickets. Thanks for mentioning yours - and you're going to have even more fun in your new Lazy Daze,Happy traveling and camping,Jim & DebSanta Cruz, California2016 TK
Re: new to me 2001 MB Reply #6 – November 21, 2018, 09:28:15 pm Welcome and congrats on your LD purchase. May you have a safe and smooth trip home and many more adventures to follow 🚐🎉😁
Re: new to me 2001 MB Reply #7 – November 21, 2018, 10:49:39 pm Quote from: RonB - November 21, 2018, 02:10:28 amHi Sean; Welcome to the Forum. More history about your coach would help us determine what might be up. Do you have maintenance records? Last year I bought a 2001 MidBath for some friends. Renovated it here in San Diego. They are starting their second winter with it in Florida right now. They escaped that snowstorm in the north, just in time. Kent's compilation is very extensive, but you will find out more things about the rig as you go. How many miles it has traveled, how many hours on the generator, added options, factory or not, and of course, we love pictures too. RonBIt's got 55k miles on it. They say the generator has 34 hours. The previous owner claims to have owned an auto repair shop and religiously maintained the unit.These are the highlights from the listing:-4 skylight, all are vented, 2 with push/pull fan and thermostat-Outside retractable awning-Energy efficient LED interior lights conversion-Rear view camera-Onan generator with only 34 Hours life!-Dual battery tray with inverter-Retractable door steps with handle-Brand new Yokohama tires -Brand new battery 2018-Replaced new fuel filter and pump-4 hydraulic leveling jacksAll the fluids also was recently replaced. Coolant, power steering fluid, transmission fluid, engine oil. Good to go!---Not sure what of those options where actually factory installed or not. Could you get a backup camera, hydraulic jacks, and dual battery w/ inverter as factory options?We are planning on taking I40 across. Doing 4 to 6 hours driving a day and stopping at a bunch of national parks. We're trying to plan out the stops now to try and get reservations at various parks. Hopefully places aren't full yet w/ the snowbirders Thanks for the replies
Re: new to me 2001 MB Reply #8 – November 22, 2018, 12:28:48 am Besides the other suggestions, be sure the hydraulic leveler fluid was change, it normally isn't included in fluid changes.The hydraulic fluid can collect moisture, leading to rust and expensive damage, older hydraulic systems can be difficult to find parts for, it is best to maintain them as well as possible.34 hours on the generator is not a good sign, it is supposed to be run monthly, at a minimum, for a half hour of more.Make sure it operates correctly and outputs the proper voltage, Add a monthly generator run to your maintenance schedule. Your Onan Emerald generator has a replaceable oil filter, check to see if the filter can looks new, indicating a recent oil change.Generators need to be run often to keep the electrical windings dry, moisture can destroy the wire's insulation and short out the armature, a very expensive repair. During the monthly run, put a good load on it by running the A/C or a couple of electric space heaters, get it up to operating temp and let it stay there for a while.Larry
Re: new to me 2001 MB Reply #9 – November 22, 2018, 10:59:26 am My guess is you'll be winterizing your rig once you get it back to NC. My I suggest getting the blow out hose from the factory. They make a very good customize blowout hose. There is some debate as to what is a better system (air vs antifreeze) of winterizing. I use air because we like camping year round. Air is cheaper and easier then the pink RV antifreeze. 1 Likes
Re: new to me 2001 MB Reply #10 – January 01, 2019, 02:08:07 pm Well it was a successful cross country journey.As was feared w/ the low hours on the generator, we had issues with it. Ended up getting the carb replaced and fuel pump as well. We'll be running monthly now to keep it in good order. Also got new house batteries. We where able to get it to the mothership where Vince gave it a walk around. They had time to put in a new shower dome, and redo two of the four end caps. The roof still has the original sealant on it. We got instructions on how they redo, and we'll be doing that ourselves now that we are back home. Pretty simple process, just labor intensive. We ended up getting a couple of new cover for the escape hatch, a vent hatch, and the roof AC unit. No major issues on the journey home, just a couple of minor things.1. We've got a very small leak under the toilet flush pedal. Only happens when connected to shore water, or when the water pump is actively pumping for a long time, like doing dishes. I tried to tighten the brass nut at the bottom of the valve, but really didn't have the right wrench w/ me to do it justice. One of the parks we stayed at happen to have the replacement part, so I picked it up to swap out at some point.2. Occasionally the rig will not start right up. It might take two or three tries and letting it crank for quite some times before it fires. Vince said the ignition switch didn't feel as crisp as he is used to. Anyone know if Ford's are prone to ignition switch issues?3. The climate system in the cab does some funny things sometime under load. It will switch the airflow to the defroster regardless of where it is set at when going up hills. I imagine the controls are all vacuum operated and it's loosing enough vacuum so it swings back to "home" position so to speak. Does this happen to anyone else?4. The roof mounted A/C unit. I was under the impression they all came w/ the heater elements. The control has the setting for optional heat, but when we set it to that, we can't feel any heat actually being produced. Does anyone know if that was a standard feature, or did you have to purchase it as an option. And if it was optional, do you know if we can retrofit it?5. Window rattle. The window next to the dinning table is way loose. Both the screen and glass have significant movement if you push on it from the inside or outside. It doesn't seem like the screen or glass is removable, but I'm sure it is and I'm just not seeing the proper way to remove them. Does anyone have any pointers?6. The Kenwood head unit doesn't have any backlight on the display. Pretty much makes the unit un-useable at the moment. We where able to put in a CD and get it to play, but couldn't get it to work as a radio. I'm not sure if there is some sort of option to turn off the backlight that the previous owner turned on. If I shine a flashlight at the display I can sort of make out what's there. Also I was under the impression that the head unit ran off of the house batteries, but you have to have the ignition turned on for the radio to turn on. Is this normal? A previous owner installed an after-market back up camera, so I'm wondering if he messed something up in doing that.We actually saw one other LD while driving cross country. It was going west while we where heading east. We love the rig and now we get to start thinking about putting our own touches on it.Sorry for the rambling 3 Likes
Re: new to me 2001 MB Reply #11 – January 01, 2019, 04:31:15 pm Hi Henness. Happy New Year. Glad you made it home ok. About #6. All the 2001's I've seen had a Sony radio, with an additional CD changer. The only light bulb in the system was to light up the display, and all that I've seen were burned out. A small flashlight and it should be usable, but just barely. A search on this topic will reveal many threads about choosing, and replacing the radio. Yes, the original wiring to run the radio is from the house batteries. Just the very small, keep alive (button memory), power comes from the engine (chassis) battery. I would suspect the wiring has been altered from original. About #4, in 2001 the heat strip was optional. You can get them Amazon.com: Dometic Brisk 2 Air Non-Ducted Heat Strip: Automotive ,but I find the A/C fan too noisy. (That link may be the right part, or not) Most of us get small box heater/fans to run when full hookups are available. Quieter, movable, and easily replaced. Since it costs the same with electric hookups. You can save on depleting propane supplies. #3 Low vacuum situations do default to 'defrost' since visabilty is a safety concern. There should be a vacuum tank, with a check valve, to keep vacuum good when the engine is loaded down. I'd check that valve. It could also be related to symptom #2 difficulty starting. That also could be a cracked or dislodged vacuum hose or fitting.. #1, replacing that valve should fix the water leak on the toilet. And # 5, the window rattle. There is a strip of plastic under the movable window that can wear out. I've never replaced one (yet). You can take screws out of the inside window frame, I think, to access it. Don't take all of the screws out, the window frame and window can fall out onto the ground while you aren't watching.... Good luck with that. Maybe someone else here can answer that question better. With a 2001, one item to think about, is the piece of fuel hose, at the top of the gas tank, that goes to your generator. They are known to develop cracks and leak air into the generator fuel line, causing problems that seem like the carburetor or pump. There are many threads about that topic that you can search for. RonB 1 Likes As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
Re: new to me 2001 MB Reply #12 – January 01, 2019, 04:47:09 pm Glad you made it home. It's always to process to track down and repair the gremblins on an older rig. #2, along with the age of the coach, makes me suspect the fuel pump. It's a common failure, and that symptom was resolved when I replaced the fuel pump on my '03. If you do end up replacing the fuel pump, don't neglect to replace the small section of fuel line on the generator fuel pickup while things are apart. It's prone to crack and allow air into the system.#4, If it was indeed optional, you can probably find a salvage/used heat strip somewhere. My guess is that it's much more common for the A/C part to fail than the heat strip.#6 . One of the annoyances in the Radio on my 2003 is that it's not wired to dim the display when the headlights are on. The radio itself is capable (I'm on the 3rd headunit), but the chassis wiring doesn't seem to support that feature. Maybe a previous owner did it on purpose? At $99 or less for a new single DIN headunit, it might be time to replace it. I appreciate the bluetooth feature in my latest unit since I can a phone to control the music from anywhere in the coach. Rich'03 MB in NC
Re: new to me 2001 MB Reply #13 – January 01, 2019, 05:03:33 pm On my phone. Quote # 5, the window rattle. There is a strip of plastic under the movable window that can wear out. I've never replaced one (yet). You can take screws out of the inside window frame, I think, to access it. Don't take all of the screws out, the window frame and window can fall out onto the ground while you aren't watching.That strip of plastic with a bit of felt comes from the LD Factory flat and scored so that the outside edges fold up. Simply push the piece into the frame. Then using a small flat head screw driver, tuck the edges under a lip in the frame. Hope this helps. 1 Likes
Re: new to me 2001 MB Reply #14 – January 02, 2019, 07:43:03 pm Brakes brakes brakes.Brakes.When we purchased our LD last summer everything on this list checked out (minus a soft spot the size of a penny under the rear window).Our generator was locked up but a piece of pipe in the cooling fan freed it and it’s been good to go ever since.We had issues with the front brakes after a few weeks of ownership/driving. Calipers started dragging and burnt up the brake assemblies. I had to swap the rotor/hub, calipers and pads. This was a big job but perfectly doable.2 months later it was time do to the rear brakes (When we bought new tires we found heavy wear on the brake pads, rotors looks perfect). While changing the pads i noticed the calipers didn’t want to compress very smooth to handle brand new full thickness pads.A week later we were headed on another trip, and after making it down the road we realise the rear calipers were now dragging just as the fronts did. They would not disengage and as we limped back home the brakes obviously got dangerously hot. The original calipers used phenolic pistons which ended up literally melting around the time we got home, as the calipers disentigrated we lost all brake pressure and relied on good ole physics to make it back to the driveway. Obviously the moral of this story is to check the brakes. I’m a decent shadetree mechanic and was able to swap out to new rotors/calipers/pads on the rear and it’s good to go now. Losing braking ability in a 14k RV is No Bueno. And if you do ever get a dragging caliper get yourself a tow unless you wanna be hard headed like myself. Ps. I live pretty far into the country and no fellow motorists were in danger during this story, truth be told with dragging calipers the camper can’t accelerate very fast to begin with.
Re: new to me 2001 MB Reply #15 – January 02, 2019, 07:55:33 pm Good reminder; lubing caliper slides regularly is a critical maintenance item, and one that I suspect is far too often overlooked. 1 Likes
Re: new to me 2001 MB Reply #16 – January 02, 2019, 10:15:40 pm "The original calipers used phenolic pistons..."Cor2manI don't pretend to be any sort of mechanic but over the years I've kept my ears open and what I've heard is that Stainless pistons are to be preferred over phenolic. I'm sure others better qualified will jump in here with differing opinions.
Re: new to me 2001 MB Reply #17 – January 03, 2019, 06:51:37 am Basically phenolic transfers less heat to the fluid during heavy braking, it also allegedly has less chance to bind since it’s a resin piston that will not corrode. Of course brakes that have had pads worn to 25 percent for a large amount of time haven’t seen a full stroke in so long it’s likely corrosion or buildup has occurred on the cylinder itself. I wouldn’t mind having 1 material over the other...what I do know is that with a dragging piston creating excess heat the phenolic will disintegrate which makes for a bad day.
Re: new to me 2001 MB Reply #18 – January 03, 2019, 09:53:23 am Just for information: This is a link to the "heavy duty" brake replacement parts kit from Rock Auto; this particular parts combo is for my 2003, but it's likely very similar to that for a 2001.More Information for POWER STOP KC508436Of course, brake system parts are also available separately from Rock Auto and other sources; this is just one example. Rock Auto's site is great fun to browse! 1 Likes
Re: new to me 2001 MB Reply #19 – January 03, 2019, 12:18:16 pm Another great site for all sorts of parts!https://www.summitracing.com/
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