End Cap Reseal October 17, 2018, 06:58:22 pm Dropbox - RV End Caps - Simplify your life[/img]I'm attempting to complete End Cap and Window reseal before the end of October and cold weather. I've read about every post in Forum to learn what is out there and appreciate the advise (although some is conflicting and I think a bit outdated) I started by sealing something to practice on by working under the back faux tire cover where the middle aluminum panel needed sealing. I though I could get away with using Sashco Lexel Paintable Caulk Polymer Sealant 13013 Weatherproofing since this area was protected with the tire cover (I would not use for end caps). I really struggled with using 3M 5200 on green painted sections of RV. However, after using the Lexel I decided to only use 3M 5200 on the end caps and windows. I'll remove my set-up to clamp panel down tight tomorrow and I'm really not sure it will hold.I had a tube 3M 5200 (non Fast Cure version) and figured I'd use this tube while waiting on delivery of three 10 Oz fast Cure tubes. I used tape and followed best practice from forum such as multiple rubber gloves, etc. The driver side rear end cap had a pretty good gap. I took my best run at installation and find I'm getting better but still I'm no pro. In retrospect, I should have waited for delivery of the Fast Cure version which should arrive tomorrow but reasonably happy with results.QUESTION:1) Do you also fill with 3M 5200 the horizontal section of the end cap? (the rear section that overlaps and typically deforms)? See photos where I have not yet filled. It seems that the factory had suggested to someone that this is the one place silicone based sealant is appropriate? 2) Only other section of end cap where sealing has failed is the lower front passenger side. Should I also seal all sections of End Cap such as side of Roof (Eternabond on roof already) and driver front where there is no failure as a preventive maintenance? I assume if existing sealant has not failed I do not need to scrap out the old sealant?I plan on sealing all Windows with 3M 5200. It does pain me to use white sealant on green paint areas. However, the reality is my coach is a 2001 and I'm going for function over form/ cosmetics at this stage. Although coach is in excellent shape overall.I followed Forum advise to the best of my understanding but would appreciate any clarification to my questions in bold above.Thanks,Larry D
Re: End Cap Reseal Reply #1 – October 18, 2018, 02:51:39 am Quote from: Larame SRT - October 17, 2018, 06:58:22 pmDropbox - RV End Caps - Simplify your life[/img]QUESTION:1) Do you also fill with 3M 5200 the horizontal section of the end cap? (the rear section that overlaps and typically deforms)? It seems that the factory had suggested to someone that this is the one place silicone based sealant is appropriate? 2) Only other section of end cap where sealing has failed is the lower front passenger side. Should I also seal all sections of End Cap such as side of Roof (Eternabond on roof already) and driver front where there is no failure as a preventive maintenance? I assume if existing sealant has not failed I do not need to scrap out the old sealant?I plan on sealing all Windows with 3M 5200. It does pain me to use white sealant on green paint areas. However, the reality is my coach is a 2001 and I'm going for function over form/ cosmetics at this stage. Although coach is in excellent shape overall.The regular 3M 5200 take forever to cure, a good week or more, the 5200 Fast Cure cures overnight. While I prefer the Fast Cure, you need to work quickly to removed the tape, once an acceptable surface has been achieved, it sets so quickly, the tape will pull on the edge of the sealant if you wait for more than a few minutes. The warmer the air temp , the faster it sets up.On the rear end cap's horizontal seam, clean the seam out as well as possible, wipe with solvent and then tape both sides, before filling with 5200. After it has cured, cut a cover out of Eternabond that spans the gap.Prepared to do the whole thing over again in a few years, the gaps are very active places where a lot of flexing and thermal stresses meet. The Mothership has preformed metal caps that can be placed over the gap.Definitely reseal the front caps, at your rig's age, all the sealants should be renewed. Pay attention to the windows, the sealant shrinks with age and will form gullies along the top and side, places for water to sit.As for using white 5200 on the green seams, it isn't as noticeable as you would think and if you want, paint the white where it crosses the green, it will hold paint for quite awhile.Please, do not use silicone sealant anywhere on the coach. Once an area has had silicone applied to it, it is has been poisoned and nothing will ever stick it again, without sanding down to bare metal. With the exception of mechanical parts that call for a silicone sealant, there is none in our LD.Larry
Re: End Cap Reseal Reply #2 – October 18, 2018, 09:20:13 am Thanks LarryOnly further clarification is whether I need to rip out sections of the existing sealant that has not failed prior to installing new 3M 5200 sealant? Similar situation in 2 years when I need to reseal or re-patch up the 3M 5200 I’m currently installing. It seems it would be really difficult to remove a failed seam of 3M 5200 or is it no more difficult then factory Locktite PL S40 (assuming this is what they used on a 2001 Coach MB). I probably would just apply sealant right over a seal that has not yet failed and only remove 5200 if needed. When I look at the top of my windows the seal has dipped down a bit on the top but no sign of leaking. My plan was just to put a bead of 3M 5200 right on top.
Re: End Cap Reseal Reply #3 – October 18, 2018, 05:29:49 pm Quote from: Larame SRT - October 18, 2018, 09:20:13 amIt seems it would be really difficult to remove a failed seam of 3M 5200 or is it no more difficult then factory Locktite PL S40 (assuming this is what they used on a 2001 Coach MB). When I look at the top of my windows the seal has dipped down a bit on the top but no sign of leaking. My plan was just to put a bead of 3M 5200 right on top.If redoing a previously repaired seam, I use a utility knife and cut a "V" down the center of the seam, removing some of the replaced sealant.Tape and reseal, the new 5200 should bond with the old 5200.My windows looked the same, clean, tape and reseal the top and sides.If you have lifting caps, use stainless steel sheet metal screws to pull the caps into place, when re-glueing . #8 X 3/4" SS screws work well.Larry 1 Likes
Re: End Cap Reseal Reply #5 – October 20, 2018, 03:08:36 am IMHO, those are some nice sealant beads. I have painted my white on blue seams, but only because I had some paint mixed and in the sprayer. When I do other sealing I don’t bother. And the white that wears to grey doesn’t bother me anymore. Seconding the advice to fill in the horizontal cap seams. I used Big Stretch here, aggressively. The end cap plastic is very thin, and I believe prone to failure. I like the preformed metal strips over this weak spot. 1 Likes
Re: End Cap Reseal Reply #6 – October 21, 2018, 01:18:49 pm I second your calking beads very nice job. I've calked a lot of seams in refrigerated cases, none as nice as yours.Jon..... 1 Likes
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Topic: End Cap Reseal (Read 367 times)
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