Log In | Register
Skip to main content
Topic: Marker/Clearance Lights Troubleshooting (Read 1129 times) previous topic - next topic
0 Members and 3 Guests are viewing this topic.
Re: Marker/Clearance Lights Troubleshooting
Reply #25 –
Quote from: RonB  - 
You can replace that entire fixture for the same price as the one retrofit bulb. Rectangular LED Clearance, Identification, or Side Marker Light w/ Flexible....
Sorry, i just found those lights today.  RonB

I am sorry to be so dumb, but I cannot figure out how that fixture (photo A)  will fit as a replacement for the existing sidemarker unit. (photo B). 
Specifically because of the rubber and screw extension on the replacement.
 What am I missing???
who let the dogs out
1992 RB
Re: Marker/Clearance Lights Troubleshooting
Reply #26 –
Quote from: RonB  - 
Hi Alice, I don't know what those numbers mean.

I am concerned about them because they are different on every socket I have seen so far. Because of that, I figure they must mean something!!
I have not been able to find anything on the net about it. Which doesn't surprise me because I haven't been able to find those square sockets with that hook up system anywhere, either.
Any suggestion on terminology for the search box when looking on the net??? Or specific terminology/product numbers for replacement????
When the weather cools off, I will be able to remove an entire marker unit and hopefully get pertinent model/product numbers off of that.
who let the dogs out
1992 RB
Re: Marker/Clearance Lights Troubleshooting
Reply #28 –
"I owe you..."
----
Alice, any "payback" for me, and I'm sure, for others on this forum, is hearing that our suggestions or advice were helpful.  What goes around, comes around! ;) 
2003 TK has a new home
Re: Marker/Clearance Lights Troubleshooting
Reply #29 –
Hi Alice. LD supplies the ground wire at the back of the light. White for ground, Black to the red wire (+12V).  You do need to enlarge the hole in the skirt in just the right location to use the screw holes you already have.   RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
Re: Marker/Clearance Lights Troubleshooting
Reply #30 –
Hi Alice, re: the photo #2 with the circled failed joint. That is typical of a non 'gas tight' connection. Those electrons just can't jump that gap very well at just 12 volts. (now a few thousand volts maybe)... RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
 
Re: Marker/Clearance Lights Troubleshooting
Reply #32 –
Alice, I can relate to your dilemma here. I had a few on my '92 that would not work, and no amount of contact cleaning, socket tweaking, bulb swapping or replacing bulbs worked. I got a low voltage reading in the socket with a voltmeter. 

My solution was to replace the entire offending fixtures, about 4 if I recall.  I started thinking I would upgrade all markers, but not go to LED ( I did replace all interior lights and fixtures, and the tail lights with LEDs already, couldn't see any benefit in LED marker lights on this application), BUT, once I replaced one marker light fixture, I rethought the plan to upgrade them all.  They are a bear to get off, thanks to the great sealant the Mothership used. It was very difficult to remove them and not scratch or damage the skin of the LD. But the new lights work great. 

My conclusion is that the ground thru the skin of the LD was the culprit. Not sure if that is right, but it didn't matter once I committed to fixture replacement. 
Paul
'92 Mid Bath
Re: Marker/Clearance Lights Troubleshooting
Reply #33 –
Agreed on the sealant for the fixtures. We had a backup camera installed in the past year and that required lifting the middle marker and I thought he would never get it off. He was very careful and didn't scratch the paint but it broke in pieces trying to get it off. The sealant came out of the back of it as a thick solid piece.

The result of that made me realize I wasn't going to worry about any visible cracks in the base of the markers and that I didn't want to have to remove one.

Jim
Re: Marker/Clearance Lights Troubleshooting
Reply #34 –
Quote from: paul banbury  - 
Alice, I can relate to your dilemma here. I had a few on my '92 that would not work, and no amount of contact cleaning, socket tweaking, bulb swapping or replacing bulbs worked. I got a low voltage reading in the socket with a voltmeter. 

My solution was to replace the entire offending fixtures, about 4 if I recall.  I started thinking I would upgrade all markers, but not go to LED ( I did replace all interior lights and fixtures, and the tail lights with LEDs already, couldn't see any benefit in LED marker lights on this application), BUT, once I replaced one marker light fixture, I rethought the plan to upgrade them all.  They are a bear to get off, thanks to the great sealant the Mothership used. It was very difficult to remove them and not scratch or damage the skin of the LD. But the new lights work great. 

My conclusion is that the ground thru the skin of the LD was the culprit. Not sure if that is right, but it didn't matter once I committed to fixture replacement. 

THANK YOU!!  I was wondering about that, getting that base plate off without destroying something.

Do you know where I can find a clear picture of what those square wedge light sockets are supposed to look like INSIDE?? I  Or if ANY wedge lite socket built for the 194 incandescent bulb, will be the same inside.??
Once I know what the socket is SUPPOSED to look like - where it seats the bulb - I will have a better idea if the ones on my unit are a lost cause.... or if I might be able rehab them.
who let the dogs out
1992 RB
Re: Marker/Clearance Lights Troubleshooting
Reply #35 –
Quote from: RonB  - 
Hi Alice, re: the photo #2 with the circled failed joint. That is typical of a non 'gas tight' connection. Those electrons just can't jump that gap very well at just 12 volts. (now a few thousand volts maybe)... RonB

Excellent, now I know how to fix THAT particular lite!!
who let the dogs out
1992 RB
Re: Marker/Clearance Lights Troubleshooting
Reply #36 –
Quote from: Alice  - 
This bit of advice just saved me from a horrible misfortune!!!!  Seriously, best advice I could get, THANK YOU, and I owe you!!!

It's no joke, LD leaves or no extra wire when installing the tail lights. I had on set of wires completely disappear, never to be seen again.
I suggest either locking medical forceps or needle-nose vise grips.
LD wires the tail lights from the inside before the insulation and interior paneling are installed, they saw no need for any 'wasted' wire.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Marker/Clearance Lights Troubleshooting
Reply #37 –
Hi Alice, I guess a moderator moved this comment to a different stream while I was trying to comment. Under that circle you put on there is one of the bad connections. One on each side of the socket. Even if it isn't visibly broken like this one, the two pieces of metal are just laying next to each other over that plastic post. So still bad. I would file a bare spot into the brass, through the nickel and solder a smalll wire about #22 to bridge from that blue wire to the base of the socket.
    Inside the slot that the bulb base slips into, are two opposing flatish contacts. Two at each end corresponding to where the contacts on the bulb are. I would clean those up, add just a little grease, insert the bulb, and that would be much more reliable. Hopefully working. Soldering the wire, without melting the plastic too much, was the hard part. RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
Re: Marker/Clearance Lights Troubleshooting
Reply #38 –
Hi Joan;     you said (Note: the chrome ring was not replaced after installation of the LEDs; in my experience, the ring  collected dirt and moisture behind it, so I stayed with "basic black".)

   Well I haven't noticed much dirt trapped there and I like the bright, reflectiveness of the stainless steel rings. From behind in the dark I want a following driver to really see the motorhome. Especially if I'm parked and my lights are off. Reflectors are good too.    RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
Re: Marker/Clearance Lights Troubleshooting
Reply #39 –
Hi Alice. I think these lights (in red) are closer in size to what came with your rig. They are also surface mount, so no carving large holes through your side skirt. Those other ones, you are paying for a rubber bracket you don't need. They are also more like 1 1/2" tall so wont't cover the lack of paint underneath the ones you have now. LD painted after those were mounted. They are about 2" x 4". 
    Oval LED Truck and Trailer Lights - 4” LED Side Clearance Lights - Pigtail...
        They have a white and black wire, to match the LD colored wires.  RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
Re: Marker/Clearance Lights Troubleshooting
Reply #40 –
"Especially if I'm parked and my lights are off. Reflectors are good too."

One of the 1st things I did to my LD after delivery was to run a 3" strip of white reflective tape across the entire rear end, above the bumper but below the faux tire cover and tail lights. Any headlights that strike that strip makes it glow like it's alive.

When my tail lights were replaced with LEDs at one of the Caravan GTGs at Live Oak the fellow (can't remember his name (Terry Tanner?)) told me the reflectors were mandatory in accordance with CA law.  ::)
Steve S.
Lazy Bones & Cedar
2004 30'IB (Island Bed)
Yesterday is History, Tomorrow is a Mystery
Live for the day!
Re: Marker/Clearance Lights Troubleshooting
Reply #41 –
Hi Alice. I think these lights (in red) are closer in size to what came with your rig. They are also surface mount, so no carving large holes through your side skirt. Those other ones, you are paying for a rubber bracket you don't need. They are also more like 1 1/2" tall so wont't cover the lack of paint underneath the ones you have now. LD painted after those were mounted. They are about 2" x 4". 
    Oval LED Truck and Trailer Lights - 4” LED Side Clearance Lights - Pigtail...
          RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
Re: Marker/Clearance Lights Troubleshooting
Reply #42 –

Hi Steve. I actually have a 3/4" stripe just above the black vinyl, all the way across of Prism Duck tape. Multi color depending on the angle.  Makes it easier to make sure it's my rig in the dark, before I walk into someone elses.  RonB
      Amazon.com: ShurTech 284039 Prism Mini Duck Tape, 75" by 15', Squares

As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
Re: Marker/Clearance Lights Troubleshooting
Reply #43 –
I have these on the back bumper:

41122 - Reflective Strips, 12" Strips, Red

Several sources; do a search using the manufacturer's (Grote) name. The reflector strips stick on or screw on; the adhesive is very strong (if the surface is prepped and cleaned); mine have been on the bumper for over 10 years.
2003 TK has a new home
Re: Marker/Clearance Lights Troubleshooting
Reply #44 –

Hi Joan. I have some other brand of red reflector on the bumper under the black vinyl strip, and lined up under the tail lights. My 'diffraction grating' prism Duck tape is above the strip, the full width. The tape mostly looks blue, or red , or green. It is inexpensive, but only lasts about 2 years, so I apply another layer over the old. Must be about 4 layers by now.
   If you don't plan on using the screws on the red stick-on reflectors, the ten pack from Amazon, seems like a good price. You can give the extra 8 away to other motorhomers. The ten pack seems to not come with screws. I prefer tape and screws for mounting, but I have a supply of screws anyway.    RonB
  Amazon.com: 10 Pack of 12" Red Automotive Reflector Strips Grote #41122:...

As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
Re: Marker/Clearance Lights Troubleshooting
Reply #45 –
Ron

I just noticed this;  """Soldering the wire, without melting the plastic too much, was the hard part."""""
Soldering on plastic is a game changer for me, I don't have the skills to do it without melting the base.

Would something like this work?
who let the dogs out
1992 RB
Re: Marker/Clearance Lights Troubleshooting
Reply #46 –
I have not had much luck dealing with LD in Pomona, but does anyone know/think they might have replacement sockets for a 1992?
Or any sort of replacement that would fit?
who let the dogs out
1992 RB
Re: Marker/Clearance Lights Troubleshooting
Reply #47 –
Quote from: Alice  - 
I have not had much luck dealing with LD in Pomona, but does anyone know/think they might have replacement sockets for a 1992?
Or any sort of replacement that would fit?
"I have not had much luck dealing with LD in Pomona..."

Alice, can you be specific?

Chris
Formerly: 2002 30' IB
Re: Marker/Clearance Lights Troubleshooting
Reply #48 –
Hi Alice; Not that hard to solder. I'm not sure that glue would help at all. Have you soldered wiring before?
   Lazy Daze will replace your marker lights fixtures and lenses with exactly what you have right now, only newer and cleaner. But expensively, and years from now it will be like it is now. A little solder blob applied just right will make it work better possibly for a long time at almost no cost.   And no, those sockets you had a picture of won't work. RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
Re: Marker/Clearance Lights Troubleshooting
Reply #49 –
My replacement units were Peterson’s if I recall. I found them easily, at a local hardware. They are a stock item so a match won’t be a problem, if you go that way.

The Mothership is not cheap for repair work, but when working on the exterior skin I don’t trust RV repair places, at least until I find a good one. Though that may be a lot easier in SoCal than it is out here at the end of the lower 48. But whatever the shop charges, look for a labor bill of 30 minutes or per light, as a guess. Maybe someone has a more accurate cost?
Paul
'92 Mid Bath