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Notes on exterior inspection at the mothership
Sue and I are just past the one year mark with our first motorhome, a 2011, 27’ mid-bath we call Sidra (Urdu for ‘of the stars’). 

After a year of getting to know Sidra, and over a year of reading most every post on this forum, we judged it prudent to get a factory evaluation of Sidra’s exterior condition.  Last week Sue and I trekked to the Mothership.

The remainder of this post is a slightly edited version of the entry in our Maintenance Log.  I’m sharing it for what it’s worth. 

I want readers to know that Vince was great.  Sometimes a bit abrupt, and sometimes rather ‘black and white’ on issues that might have more color, but always engaged and generous.  There was no charge for the time he spent with us, including the adjustment he made to the coach door.  The only money we left at the Mothership was for touch up paint and new beading for around the faux spare tire cover.

--Begin Maintenance Log Entry--

27-June-18:  Mothership exterior inspection and Q&A session

Vince worked with us for a couple hours, performed the inspection, and answered all of our questions. 

Roof:  All seals in good condition, including entire perimeter and all vents.  He also commented that the escape hatch cover is in good condition and that to prevent any rattles, we should lower the hatch until fully closed and then tighten it a bit more.  (Sue uses foam pads to prevent the aluminum on aluminum rattle.)

Regarding the roof, Vince had one large concern.

Sometime in the past, the original owner replaced the original factory rooftop antenna with another product.  The owner did not like the new product and restored the original antenna.  The process left the antenna mount base and several sites adjacent to it sealed with self-leveling sealant (Dicor?; see attached photo; yes that’s a WeBoost antenna in place of the TV antenna). 

Vince doesn’t like Dicor, but his real concern was what couldn’t be seen under the sealant, which most likely covers non-factory holes drilled in the roof.  He somewhat reluctantly advised that we remove the sealant, evaluate the penetrations, if appropriate patch with fiberglass and polyester resin(!), and then seal with polyurethane (Loctite PL S40).  No immediate action taken.

Related: We asked Vince if he thought the antenna coaxial cable as it passes through the aluminum base plate, protected by a boot, is water tight.  He recommended sealing the boot.

Solar panels:  The rear panel has some ‘snail trails’ in the cells.  See attached photo.  The panel appears to be fully functional.  Vince was unconcerned.  He was also unconcerned about the UV (sun) damage to the rubber cover of power cables.

End caps:  In good condition, with one exception. See attached photo.

The horizontal end cap crack on the rear right (passenger) side goes across the full width.  The crack is above the interior floor level and is vulnerable to water penetration.  Repair options include replacing the end cap (~$1000), or sealing (Vince recommended PL S40) and monitoring.  There is A LOT of discussion about end cap repair options on the LDO Forum.  We will start with 3M 5200 Fast Cure and monitoring. 

Fiberglass tail light panels: Vince said that the small cracks in the panels are in the gel coat only. No concern.

Coach door:  When the door is closed, the upper third of the door doesn’t fully seal.  Vince took Sidra back to the work yard and adjusted the door.  It now seals perfectly.  The work was performed gratis.

Windows:  Vince was satisfied with the exterior seal of all windows.  I did not see him inspect the top of every window.  I asked him to look at a repair I made (thin coat of 3M 5200), and he said that it looked clean and careful and that I probably didn’t do any harm.   :o   I mentioned that I used 5200 and he indicated that he didn’t know what that was.  Hmm.

Misc other:
  • Interior antenna control mechanism:  Vince reattached the handle and indicated that the rod to which the antenna attaches had been cut too short.
  • Interior window lock mechanism:  The locking mechanism on one window keeps falling off.  Vince suggested that the loose screws be removed, a slightly larger hole be drilled, and slightly larger screws be used to secure the plate.  In responding, I misspoke and said something about longer screws, and he emphatically replied not to use longer screws!  That a longer screw could come into contact with the glass and break it.
    Postscript:  I looked at this problem more carefully yesterday.  It turns out that when the moving piece of glass (which also has the locking mechanism) is fully closed, the locking mechanism alignment is past the groove in the aluminum extrusion that the locking arm swings in to.  (I know, it doesn’t seem possible, but it’s clearly the case).  To address the problem, it appears that the factory (or original owner) placed a plastic shim under the lock mechanism which gives it the correct alignment.  (None of the other windows has a shim under the locking mechanism.)  The stock screws were used to attach the mechanism, which, with the shim, are too short to achieve even a full rotation of penetration in the aluminum.   So, I will clean everything up, and use screws that are 1/8” longer.  I will probably have to cut down longer screws.
  • Interior Kitchen blinds.  The mechanism that adjusts the tilt of the blades doesn’t work.  Vince suggested replacement over attempts to repair. To repair, we will likely have to replace the wand tilter mechanism (replacement guide: Tilt Mechanism Buying Guide | FixMyBlinds.com; based on Mini Blind Tilt Mechanisms, ~$6-10 or $5-12 on Amazon)
Other notes:
  • Vince advised that we use polyurethane (Loctite PL S40) for ALL applications where a sealant is needed.
  • Vince advised that we lubricate the electric step more often (KwikLube).  He didn’t like what he heard when our electric step deployed.
  • Vince suggested that we run the generator 2 hours every month, and then, after some push back, said at least an hour.
  • Vince offered that Sidra was a really clean coach with the exception of the roof concerns.
  • Both Vince and Todd checked the fire extinguisher to ensure it was not part of the recall (it’s not)
Jim & Sue
Formerly owned: 2011 27' MB, Sidra

Re: Notes on exterior inspection at the mothership
Reply #1
I have been under the impression that Dicor Self Leveling is polyurethane. Is that not correct?

Jim

Re: Notes on exterior inspection at the mothership
Reply #2
Jim, I made a mistake correlating EPDM with the Dicor sealant itself. 

The Dicor sealant (L501LS) is meant for use with Dicor EPDM Rubber Roofing (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer). 

I don't know what type of sealant Dicor L501LS is.  It could be polyurethane.  When Vince said use a polyurethane sealant, I replied, such as Dicor.  And he said no, use Loctite PL S40.

I will edit the original post to replace EPDM with Dicor.

Sorry for the confusion.

Jim S.
Jim & Sue
Formerly owned: 2011 27' MB, Sidra

Re: Notes on exterior inspection at the mothership
Reply #3
After a year of getting to know Sidra, and over a year of reading most every post on this forum, we judged it prudent to get a factory evaluation of Sidra’s exterior condition.  Last week Sue and I trekked to the Mothership.

Thank you Jim for a very interesting post especially for those of us that might not ever travel to the Factory.  BTW, if or when our end-caps crack as you showed us in the above picture, I'd repair it as you have suggested.  In addition, I'd find some contrasting 1" vinyl striping and cover the repaired crack as well as the opposing end-cap as a way to hide the repair.  I think I remember someone using pieces of Eternabond to do the same thing, which would be longer lasting than vinyl.

Re: Notes on exterior inspection at the mothership
Reply #4
Jim,

That is some activities list. After everything is said and done, I think you did well to visit the factory with your concerns.

Having Vince spend that amount of time working with you is a testament to the craftsmen working at Lazy Daze.

I believe presentation is everything. Before I bring our RB in for work or evaluation, I go over the entire LD from tip to stern. As tidy as we keep the rig, I want it to shine before Vince climbs aboard.

I’ve heard horror stories from automotive mechanics that have turned potential clients away at the door due to the sorry state of maintenance of their passenger car or truck.

Your end cap crack looks to have occurred in the same location as ours. The only difference is that yours took considerably more time to occur. Good luck with your DIY. If our LD were a bit older I would have approached our repair as a DIY.

Kent
2015 27' RB "MissB.Haven"

Re: Notes on exterior inspection at the mothership
Reply #5
Thx for such a thorough report of Sidra's check-up with Dr. Vince. 

I had a similar experience when I bought LDy Lulubelle from her previous family in Whittier--she was 8 y/o & I was heading to Missouri, far from both the Mothership & all the LD Wizards who share so much knowledge & experience on this site.  Vince's final look-see, along with Dale Dollins generous preliminary eyeballing, gave me the confidence to head east (even though I did get the standard anti-eternabond lecture).  He did replace the shower dome with the new style they had begun using (it wasn't bad yet, but he apparently saw that on the horizon given their experience that had led to the change--I was glad to have had it done & properly sealed in by the Mothership as a preventive action).

Lynne
Lynne
LDy Lulubelle, Green '05 31' TB
Lilly, the 4-Legged Alarm

Re: Notes on exterior inspection at the mothership
Reply #6
As a note conserning the locktite vs Dicor, according to Dicor it is usable on numerous substrates.  I plan to eternabond over my roof seams this weekend and had planned to use the self leveling Dicor at the front edges just to ensure no lifting or driving rain entered the seals.  That being said I also would like to put another layer of sealant over my vents/roof rack/any other seals protecting the roof.

Has anyone used dicor for this with good results? I will happily order the locktite PL-S40 in white instead but it seems that sealant is not specifically made for sealing RV roofs while dicor is the industry standard (not that the industry is known for proper sealing/quality).  Also the dicor is rated for sealing over old sealant and I’m not sure about the locktite? Any opinions on this matter are appreciated.
2000 RB

Re: Notes on exterior inspection at the mothership
Reply #7
Informative OP. Thanks
Discuss anything with anyone and disagree agreeably. Always be polite and respectful.

Re: Notes on exterior inspection at the mothership
Reply #8
As a note conserning the locktite vs Dicor, according to Dicor it is usable on numerous substrates.  I plan to eternabond over my roof seams this weekend and had planned to use the self leveling Dicor at the front edges just to ensure no lifting or driving rain entered the seals.  That being said I also would like to put another layer of sealant over my vents/roof rack/any other seals protecting the roof.

Has anyone used dicor for this with good results? I will happily order the locktite PL-S40 in white instead but it seems that sealant is not specifically made for sealing RV roofs while dicor is the industry standard (not that the industry is known for proper sealing/quality).  Also the dicor is rated for sealing over old sealant and I’m not sure about the locktite? Any opinions on this matter are appreciated.

I've used the Dicor self-leveling on the roof just as you describe with eternabond and it has worked well for years. I have also used it over existing caulk around vent covers and again have not had a problem. I have used Loctite PL-S40 elsewhere but it isn't self-leveling which I prefer on the roof.

Jim

Re: Notes on exterior inspection at the mothership
Reply #9
That’s what I was thinking Jim, especially around the roof rack mounts since the factory builds up the sealant so much around the bars, seems the self leveling sealant would be ideal for applying to such seams since it will spread and cover.
2000 RB