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Maintenance Question...
I have a 1998 Lazy Daze 26.5 mid-bath with 77,000 miles.  A year ago I took it to an RV facility here in Las Cruces and asked them to "check out all the systems" and do an oil change. 

However, since I had everything checked I basically just had an oil change.  I've only put about 1,200 miles on it since then by driving to Puerto Penasco and back. 

Should I have another oil change or should I just check all the levels? 

I don't know why, but as a single female driving and towing a car I have a certain amount of "anxiety" regarding upkeep.  I know that some things are beyond my control, but I believe in "preventive maintenance" as a sense of security.

However, I don't want to throw money away for things I don't need. 
Cheryl (a.k.a. Desert Diva)
1998 Lazy Daze (26.5 mid-bath)
2002 Honda CR-V

Re: Maintenance Question...
Reply #1
I’d change the oil and filter; the mileage isn’t an issue, but the year interval and the location where the rig has (apparently) spent most of its time since the last change are, at least, to me.

YMMV, as ever.
2003 TK has a new home

Re: Maintenance Question...
Reply #2
I change the oil once a year if I haven't achieved 5000 mi. in the interim. Your rig is larger though, as may be your toad, and if you have pulled steep grades, you will want to shorten the interval if the oil does not look pristine.

Steve
2004 FL
2013 Honda Fit

Re: Maintenance Question...
Reply #3
. . . as a single female driving and towing a car I have a certain amount of "anxiety" regarding upkeep.  I know that some things are beyond my control, but I believe in "preventive maintenance" as a sense of security.

However, I don't want to throw money away for things I don't need. 
As I see it, preventive maintenance is similar to an insurance policy. My last service was 30K - recommended oil change & lube ($110).
Actual: Oil & lube $110,  service xmission $450, Brake fluid system exchange $225, Differential service $250, incidentals ran to $1,167.  Which works out to about $.03/mile.  Transmission was fine.  Brake fluid was ~ok.  Differential fluid was burned. (Always tow and am near max GVWR) - I'd rather be conservative than lose the differential  32 mi SE of Ludlow CA on Historic Route 66 in August because the service manual recommended checking it at 50K). 

I've spent an undisclosed amount over 4 years for RV insurance which went unused, and more for ERS which was used thrice.  I don't feel I threw away the insurance premiums that didn't result in  claims.

Having someone do an overall inspection periodically when the LD wasn't on the road that much is a good idea (oh, did you know a pack rat was setting up housekeeping atop your transmission? We evicted them, no charge).  If you can afford it, pay what it takes to get peace of mind.

I'm still going over Joan's 11 page suggestion list for things to add to the upcoming 33K 'oil change'.
As she says,  YMMV

Joel
Joel & Terry Wiley
dog Zeke
2013  31 IB   Orwan   / 2011 CRV Tow'd LWEROVE

Re: Maintenance Question...
Reply #4
Cheryl-

I find it simple to stick with 3,000-mile intervals for chassis maintenance. So, if I were you, I'd drive another 1,800 miles before taking the coach in.

Mark
Former owner, 31-foot gas Class A
Former owner, 1997-8 mid-bath

Re: Maintenance Question...
Reply #5
Thanks Joel for posting the prices you paid so we have some idea what it costs to maintain our future LD.
Nov 2023, 2012 31’ IB, white/green swoops & swirles, 2009 Mini Cooper, racing green convertible, toad 🐸

We ordered white/gray  2018 27' mid bath 1/3/18 and we are hoping for a July 16th 2019 delivery, sold, and tried a Lithium Travato, wish  I would have kept the Lazy Daze 27’

Re: Maintenance Question...
Reply #6
It was done at Future Ford Fleet shop in Roseville, CA
Joel & Terry Wiley
dog Zeke
2013  31 IB   Orwan   / 2011 CRV Tow'd LWEROVE

Re: Maintenance Question...
Reply #7
Your rig is larger though, as may be your toad, and if you have pulled steep grades, you will want to shorten the interval if the oil does not look pristine.

Totally flat - I-10, and AZ Highway 85...
Cheryl (a.k.a. Desert Diva)
1998 Lazy Daze (26.5 mid-bath)
2002 Honda CR-V

Re: Maintenance Question...
Reply #8
I find it simple to stick with 3,000-mile intervals for chassis maintenance. So, if I were you, I'd drive another 1,800 miles before taking the coach in.

I think that's a good rule of thumb.  I always check the fluids and tire pressure, so I'll wait until after my trip to Colorado this summer in July.
Cheryl (a.k.a. Desert Diva)
1998 Lazy Daze (26.5 mid-bath)
2002 Honda CR-V

Re: Maintenance Question...
Reply #9
My last service was 30K - recommended oil change & lube ($110).
Actual: Oil & lube $110,  service xmission $450, Brake fluid system exchange $225, Differential service $250, incidentals ran to $1,167.

The above is a good example how a capable person, who has the physical ability and place to do it, can save a lot of money.
About $250 in fluids and filters were used, assuming they were brand name synthetics .

6-qt Mobil-1 5w-20 and filter     Walmart                                     $40

5-gal Valvoline multi-vehicle synthetic ATF                                 $100      This provide enough fluid for a total flush.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/VCA881051?searchCategory=700.7011&searchIndex=Prod
Transmission filter                                                                           $30

4-qt Valvoline Synpower 75W140 Gear Oil                                  $60           Rear axle fluid- HD recommended for towing
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/VCA982?searchCategory=700.7011&searchIndex=Prod

2-qt Valvoline synthetic brake fluid                                                $10
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/VCR601457?searchCategory=700.7011&searchIndex=Prod

With a total of $250 in materials, there is a $900+ labor charge, if done at a Ford dealer.
A competent home mechanic could do this job in 5-6 hours, done even faster at dealership, with the right equipment.
None of the work qualifies as highly skilled and the pay per hour is excellent .
Quite an incentive for the LD owner who may have more time than money.
$900 buys a lot of fuel.

Larry

Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze

Re: Maintenance Question...
Reply #10
With a total of $250 in materials, there is a $900+ labor charge, if done at a Ford dealer.
A competent home mechanic could do this job in 5-6 hours, done even faster at dealership, with the right equipment.
None of the work qualifies as highly skilled and the pay per hour is excellent .
Quite an incentive for the LD owner who may have more time than money.
$900 buys a lot of fuel.

So, for a person that's not "mechanically inclined," are you saying it would be perfectly OK to take your vehicle to a reputable shop (that's not a Ford dealer) to perform these tasks.  I just took my Honda CR-V to a "very highly rated" mechanic here in town for a check-up and it cost a fraction of what it would be at the dealer.  While I was there I asked if they could also perform "routine" maintenance (oil change, etc..) on my RV and they said "yes."  At $85/hour it's much better for me...
Cheryl (a.k.a. Desert Diva)
1998 Lazy Daze (26.5 mid-bath)
2002 Honda CR-V

Re: Maintenance Question...
Reply #11

A competent home mechanic could do this job in 5-6 hours. . . .
Quite an incentive for the LD owner who may have more time than money.
Larry
I agree completely.  As a 'home mechanic' who completely rebuilt a 40HP VW engine and then immediately paid someone to disassemble and reassemble correctly, I gained valuable assessment skills on my 'competence'.  Until I find a mechanic with whom I am comfortable, I am willing to pay the 'dealer surcharge' .  
Joel & Terry Wiley
dog Zeke
2013  31 IB   Orwan   / 2011 CRV Tow'd LWEROVE

 
Re: Maintenance Question...
Reply #12
I have been under the impression that miles driven is not the sole issue relating to oil changes.  Oil can gather acids and moisture, even if not driven much.  In fact, multiple short trips are harder on oil than fewer, longer runs - or so I have been told.  Thus, even though Cheryl may not have many miles on that oil, the months on it would suggest, to me, that an oil change is appropriate.  I would love to hear from our resident expert, Larry, on this one.

Ken F in OR
'08 MB

Re: Maintenance Question...
Reply #13
As most of y'all know by now,I'm a pretty good "DIY"guy.
An oil change is so,so simple,my 13 year old granddaughter could do it.
That being said,a tranny fluid change is another animal
Not only do you need to change the fluid/filter,BUT,listen very,very carefully. If you get a tranny fluid change,and they DONOT flush out/blow out with air,the remaining fluid left in the lines,radiator,tranny fluid cooler,you are leaving several  quarts of dirty,metal filled fluid in your system. My advice,being a fleet mgr for a food service company for 20+ yrs before retiring,is to ASK your service center if they are performing this correctly. My guess is,that most places simply drop the pan,change the fluid,put a new gasket,filter and fluid in it,and charge you. You are doing yourself a dis-service and wasting money if you do not ask if they are doing as stated above.
The differential fluid also needs to have the back plate of the "punkin"completely removed,blown out with air,and replaced
 with new r/e grease.
Ask questions. If you don't at least act like you know what needs to be done,you can be sure that most places,yes,even Ford dealers,will take the fast and cheapest way out.
1995 MB Mrdronennut

Re: Maintenance Question...
Reply #14
I would definitely change the oil in a rig that hasn’t had it changed in a year. No matter how few miles it was driven.
Lynn and Lori

Re: Maintenance Question...
Reply #15
I have been under the impression that miles driven is not the sole issue relating to oil changes.  Oil can gather acids and moisture, even if not driven much.  In fact, multiple short trips are harder on oil than fewer, longer runs - or so I have been told. 

All the above is true but there have been changes in engine design that reduces the oil contamination, while the vehicle sits.
Older engine were open to the air an allowed outside, moist air to enter, as the air temp goes up and down.
Today's engines have a sealed crankcase and run much hotter, both contributing to longer lasting oil.
A once a year oil change, for a rig that sits for long periods, isn't a bad idea.
In this situation, the engine and generator should periodically (monthly) be started and run until reaching normal, operating temperatures.

Larry
.
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze