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How to determine battery capacity?
I'm attempting to set the amp hour capacity on my recently installed Clipper BM1 battery monitor.

What is the accurate setting?

I have two of these:

2021 Mid Bath

Re: How to determine battery capacity?
Reply #1
???  According to the PDF, this battery monitor is designed for 12V batteries; Trojan T-105s are 6V batteries.

http://www.jgtech.com/pdf/Clipper%20BM1+BM2.pdf

I hope that someone more battery savvy than I will be able to help.

2003 TK has a new home

Re: How to determine battery capacity?
Reply #2
Battery capacity will be 225 ah for the two 6v batteries in series.
Harry 2006RB


Re: How to determine battery capacity?
Reply #4
tedeboy-

I looked at an online manual for the BM-1. It wasn't completely clear about that setting. However, the impression I got was to use the 20-hour rate. For your two T-105s connected in series (making 12V), that would be 225 amp-hours.

Mark
Former owner, 31-foot gas Class A
Former owner, 1997-8 mid-bath


Re: How to determine battery capacity?
Reply #6
Use the 20 hr rate - this is the standard one to which battery monitors will calibrate. If properly designed, they will compensate for varying discharge rates to give an accurate reading of battery state-of-charge regardless of how you use them.

Steve
2004 FL
2013 Honda Fit

Re: How to determine battery capacity?
Reply #7
I'm learning that if the batteries don't charge to 100% it means they have degraded some.
The manual does mention that after you are sure they are charged to drop the amp hour base setting to reflect 100% if you like but to keep in mind that they are degraded.
This happens to batteries over time.

This is my first real battery monitor.
2021 Mid Bath

 
Re: How to determine battery capacity?
Reply #8
If the batteries are new, set the meter's battery capacity at 225-amp/hours.
Batteries do degrade over time, I substrate 8-10%, of capacity, per year, to account for this.
The average deep-cycle battery's life is 5-7 years.
Multiple deep discharges, below 50%, will significantly reduce battery life.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze

Re: How to determine battery capacity?
Reply #9
If the batteries are new, set the meter's battery capacity at 225-amp/hours.
Batteries do degrade over time, I substrate 8-10%, of capacity, per year, to account for this.
The average deep-cycle battery's life is 5-7 years.
Multiple deep discharges, below 50%, will significantly reduce battery life.

Larry


Thank you Larry...as always.
2021 Mid Bath

Re: How to determine battery capacity?
Reply #10
On the bright side, the less you discharge them before recharging, the longer they last. So if you don’t often go as deep as a 50% discharge, and maintain them well, you may see longer life (battery).
Paul
'92 Mid Bath

Re: How to determine battery capacity?
Reply #11
On the bright side, the less you discharge them before recharging, the longer they last. So if you don’t often go as deep as a 50% discharge, and maintain them well, you may see longer life (battery).

Mine are 2 years old. They are on stage 2 of the 3 stage charge and showing only 75%.
I should have treated them better I guess. I thought I was pretty good.
I now realize the value of having a real battery monitor.
2021 Mid Bath

Re: How to determine battery capacity?
Reply #12
Mine are 2 years old. They are on stage 2 of the 3 stage charge and showing only 75%.
I should have treated them better I guess. I thought I was pretty good.
I now realize the value of having a real battery monitor.
[/quote

Yes, a battery capacity monitor can pay for itself over the long haul.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze

Re: How to determine battery capacity?
Reply #13
"I thought I was pretty good...I now realize the value of having a real battery monitor."

You're not the only one!

I started out RVing in 2001, in a 1985 Lazy Daze. Thanks to the previous owners (hi, Judie!), I had an advanced electrical system for the time: 204 watts of solar panels and four AGM batteries. Over the next five years I became increasingly frustrated by the fact that despite having a background in electronics, I just could not seem to get a grip on my power situation. Time after time I would get up in the morning to find that my batteries were close to 12 volts. Over time I added more and more solar panels--I ended up with nine, in all shapes and sizes!--until it was almost impossible to walk on the roof. It didn't seem to help much. I had the batteries replaced. That didn't help as much as I thought it should have either.

Finally I got a Xantrex Battery Monitor--an amp counter more or less equivalent to Victron's BMV-7xx series. It was as if a blindfold had been removed from my eyes! At last I had a feeling for the state of charge of my expensive batteries.

That confident knowledge only lasted until the batteries began to age; then the monitor's readings grew increasingly overoptimistic--but I didn't know that. In that rig and my next rig, I beat the batteries to death by trusting a battery monitor that that had been programmed for the rated capacity, and not derated 8%-10% per year as Larry has recommended. As I recall, I went through three or maybe four sets of very expensive AGM batteries in my last rig before I got it all figured out. (One or two of those sets were burned out by an aging solar controller that, it turned out, was feeding them 16-17 volts. Months went by before I caught that. My fault.)

There were a lot of things about RV battery/solar systems that I didn't know in my first fifteen years of RVing, and it took me far too long to learn them. Off the top of my head, here are a few of the things I didn't know.

• As we’ve discussed here, voltage alone wasn’t a reliable way to judge my batteries’ state of charge. I was incredibly frustrated for years until I understood this.

• Amp counting battery monitors are great as long as you remember to lower their "bank capacity" setting every year. For a long time I didn't, and they led me astray.

• Adding all those solar panels was pretty much a waste, since my wiring was inadequate. My first LD ended up with 589 watts of panels (on a 22-footer!)… but the wiring had been sized for 204 W, and I didn't have the brains to realize that the voltage drops were throwing away gobs of power. That's probably the only reason I didn't burn out my 400 W (max) solar controller: it never saw all the power that the panels were putting out! It's also why my batteries weren't getting recharged. I should have spent money on heavier wiring instead of more panels. And I should have learned to use a voltage drop calculator.

• Idling the engine doesn't do a good job of charging batteries. It doesn't put out that much juice at idle speed (it's optimized for driving, not sitting still), and its output voltages aren't regulated for best charging. I did a lot of this in my first couple of winters, when my solar panels weren't doing the job and I was desperate to get power into the batteries. Not only was it annoying and a waste of gas, but I ended up paying for new exhaust manifolds and other repairs that were probably needed, or needed sooner, because of all that idling.

• Pulling 70 to 150 amps from my batteries (via inverter) in order to run a microwave oven or Shop-Vac—even briefly—drained them a lot more than I thought, due to the Peukert effect.

• Not bringing AGM batteries back up to 100% every day shortens their lifespan considerably. So does overcharging them, but for the first five or six years I didn’t have either my AC charger or my solar charge controller set to the optimum voltages for AGMs.

I could go on, but you get the idea. I made a lot of mistakes, and paid thousands of dollars dealing with the consequences. Now I have lithium batteries, so I have a chance to make a whole new set of mistakes! ;-) I guess the moral is: read up and educate yourself as much as you can, or you'll end up paying for what you didn't know.

Andy
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"

Re: How to determine battery capacity?
Reply #14
"I thought I was pretty good...I now realize the value of having a real battery monitor."

You're not the only one!

I started out RVing in 2001, in a 1985 Lazy Daze. Thanks to the previous owners (hi, Judie!), I had an advanced electrical system for the time: 160 watts of solar panels and four AGM batteries. Over the next five years I became increasingly frustrated by the fact that despite having a background in electronics, I just could not seem to get a grip on my power situation. Time after time I would get up in the morning to find that my batteries were close to 12 volts. Over time I added more and more solar panels--I ended up with nine, in all shapes and sizes!--until it was almost impossible to walk on the roof. It didn't seem to help much. I had the batteries replaced. That didn't help as much as I thought it should have either.

Finally I got a Xantrex Battery Monitor--an amp counter more or less equivalent to Victron's BMV-7xx series. It was as if a blindfold had been removed from my eyes! At last I had a feeling for the state of charge of my expensive batteries.

That confident knowledge only lasted until the batteries began to age; then the monitor's readings grew increasingly overoptimistic--but I didn't know that. In that rig and my next rig, I beat the batteries to death by trusting a battery monitor that that had been programmed for the rated capacity, and not derated 8%-10% per year as Larry has recommended. As I recall, I went through three or maybe four sets of very expensive AGM batteries in my last rig before I got it all figured out. (One or two of those sets were burned out by an aging solar controller that, it turned out, was feeding them 16-17 volts. Months went by before I caught that. My fault.)

There were a lot of things about RV battery/solar systems that I didn't know in my first fifteen years of RVing, and it took me far too long to learn them. Off the top of my head, here are a few of the things I didn't know.

• As we’ve discussed here, voltage alone wasn’t a reliable way to judge my batteries’ state of charge. I was incredibly frustrated for years until I understood this.

• Amp counting battery monitors are great as long as you remember to lower their "bank capacity" setting every year.

• Adding all those solar panels was pretty much a waste, since my wiring was inadequate. My first LD ended up with 589 watts of panels (on a 22-footer!)… but the wiring had been sized for 160 W, and I didn't have the brains to realize that the voltage drops were throwing away gobs of power. That's probably why I didn't burn out my 400 W (max) solar controller. It's also why my batteries weren't getting recharged. I should have spent money on heavier wiring instead of more panels. And I should have learned to use a voltage drop calculator.

• Idling the engine doesn't do a good job of charging batteries. It doesn't put out that much juice at idle speed (it's optimized for driving, not sitting still), and its output voltages aren't regulated for best charging. I did a lot of this in my first couple of winters, when my solar panels weren't doing the job and I was desperate to get power into the batteries. Not only was it annoying and a waste of gas, but I ended up paying for new exhaust manifolds and other repairs that were probably needed, or needed sooner, because of all that idling.

• Pulling 70 to 150 amps from my batteries (via inverter) in order to run a microwave oven or Shop-Vac—even briefly—drained them a lot more than I thought, due to the Peukert effect.

• Not bringing AGM batteries back up to 100% every day shortens their lifespan considerably. So does overcharging them, but for the first five or six years I didn’t have either my charger or my solar charge controller set to the optimum voltages for AGMs.

I could go on, but you get the idea. I made a lot of mistakes, and paid thousands of dollars dealing with the consequences. Now I have lithium batteries, so I have a chance to make a whole new set of mistakes! ;-) I guess the moral is: read up and educate yourself as much as you can, or you'll end up paying for what you didn't know.

Andy

Wow Andy that's a lot of learning!

When my batteries finish charging I'll see what their capacity actually is and set the default capacity accordingly.

Thanks for your detailed response!
2021 Mid Bath

Re: How to determine battery capacity?
Reply #15
Andy, thanks for your gotchas.  You probably know that a big one for lithium is don't let them get hot - off the top of my head I remember not even to 92 degrees F. (And the balancing of course).

You have them in a nice cool spot and where the cat doesn't think they are great to lie on, right? :)

Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone
Jane & Scott
Currently have a 1989 TK  LD we did a lot of upgrades on.
Bigfoot 25RQ Twin on order with early summer 2024 ETA

Our smartphone autocorrects into very poor English.
 We disclaim the illusion of ignorance this creates as we have enough ignorance we rightly claim.

Re: How to determine battery capacity?
Reply #16
"I started out RVing in 2001, in a 1985 Lazy Daze. Thanks to the previous owners (hi, Judie!), I had an advanced electrical system for the time: 160 watts of solar panels and four AGM batteries."

It was a screaming 204 watts - four 51-watt panels - yee haw !  But with no microwave or much else electrical, it was several years before we hauled out the electric cord.  Yes - 204 screaming watts!  This was tall cotton in 1991!

We are about to replace our current four AGM's (system installed by AM Solar) that are now eight years old, working with 400 watts of solar.  The per year loss has brought these batteries down considerably, but we seldom boondock any more and are more frequently in a campground with a power pedestal. 

   Virtual hugs,

   Judie  <-- Sierra Vista, Arizona
   Adventures of Dorrie Anne | Photographing the West

   Today:  Mama's Little Helpers
   *****************************
 

Re: How to determine battery capacity?
Reply #17
Solar Power and battery capacity and Lions and Tigers and Bears...oh my.

Just put my 2cents in the LDO Amazon kitty by ordering “Mobile Solar Power Made Easy”. 2017 edition should be pretty up to date. I’ll see how Solar Savy I am by the end of 2018. Thanks Andy...now I have something good to read. Ran out of Zane Greys a long time ago.

Kent
2015 27' RB "MissB.Haven"

Re: How to determine battery capacity?
Reply #18
Now I have lithium batteries, so I have a chance to make a whole new set of mistakes! ;-) I guess the moral is: read up and educate yourself as much as you can, or you'll end up paying for what you didn't know.

Andy

It's been an education for a lot of us, no matter what our professional background are.
Hopefully, we have added to the LD and RV knowledge base, with information based on our successes and failures.

You should have better luck with your new TT, assuming you bought the Victron lithium battery system and it's matching accessories .  It's marine grade equipment and should hold up to the RV environment.
Better to let someone else go through the expensive engineering development .

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze

Re: How to determine battery capacity?
Reply #19
With this monitor I am seeing just how slow my PD4600 converter charges these batteries on shore power.

It seems generator charging is quicker...no?
2021 Mid Bath

Re: How to determine battery capacity?
Reply #20
With this monitor I am seeing just how slow my PD4600 converter charges these batteries on shore power.
It seems generator charging is quicker...no?

No.
On shore or generator power, the battery is charged by the converter. The charge times will be the same on either.
The Onan Microquiet 4000 generators do not have a built in battery charger.
Many smaller, portable generators will have a low amperage, 12-volt charger, used to keep their starting battery charged.
LD's Onans use the coach battery for starting.

Larger converters are available. Upgrades to the wiring and fusing may be needed to utilize larger converters.

Larry

Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze

Re: How to determine battery capacity?
Reply #21
I just reset my baseline capacity from 225 amp hrs to 171 amp hrs.
These batteries have degraded 24% in 2 years.

We're leaving soon for a 5-6 month trip.
Should I replace them? We will be at sites with no electricity a lot.
2021 Mid Bath

Re: How to determine battery capacity?
Reply #22
I just reset my baseline capacity from 225 amp hrs to 171 amp hrs.
These batteries have degraded 24% in 2 years.

We're leaving soon for a 5-6 month trip.
Should I replace them? We will be at sites with no electricity a lot.

Two year old batteries should be good for your trip.
A 24% reduction may be too high an estimate of reduced capacity unless they have abused by multiple deep discharged.
The somewhat good news is that batteries are widely available, just in case they do go bad, while traveling.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze

Re: How to determine battery capacity?
Reply #23
Two year old batteries should be good for your trip.
A 24% reduction may be too high an estimate of reduced capacity unless they have abused by multiple deep discharged.
The somewhat good news is that batteries are widely available, just in case they do go bad, while traveling.

Larry

Good idea.

On review: I've reset the capacity to reflect the actual amp hr capacity. At what resting percentage should I recharge them? 50%?
2021 Mid Bath

Re: How to determine battery capacity?
Reply #24
"At what resting percentage should I recharge them? 50%?"

There's no specific answer; it depends upon how long you want them to last. The chart below will give you the idea. It's based on LifeLine AGM battery data, so the specific numbers may differ for your batteries, but the trend is going to be pretty similar for any common lead-acid battery. If you never drain your batteries below 80%, you can expect thousands of charge/discharge cycles. If you routinely drain them to 40% or less, the lifespan drops into the hundreds. You get the idea.

When I had lead-acid batteries (and finally knew what I was doing), I tried never to let them get below 70%. But I had four or five batteries, so I could afford to not run them down too far. (Also, they were expensive batteries, and replacing the whole bank was a matter of $1,400 or so, so I wanted to make them last.)

But if it suits you, you could take the opposite tack: with a couple of relatively inexpensive flooded-cell batteries, you could use them hard, knowing that you'd have to replace them in two or three years instead of six or seven. That's a perfectly legitimate strategy; it just depends on how you want to do things.
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"