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Topic: Driver side horizontal aluminum seam unglued (Read 281 times) previous topic - next topic
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Driver side horizontal aluminum seam unglued
Hi all,

Sorry for the lack of proper jargon, but there is a horizontal seam that forms at each front sides of the coach where the exterior aluminum wall folds and curves to the front. This seam on the driver has slightly pealed open about the length of the driver side door.

Im thinking this is most likely due to the cold front we have been experiencing in southern Florida. It's quite possible that the temperature extreme has caused the exterior walls to contract/expand, causing the dissection.

How can I fix this?  It seems like it was originally glued together. Can I just do this myself?  If so, what product should I use.

Ps. We when to the Tampa RV show last weekend.  Saw lots of rv's.  Lots of beautiful rigs out there and boy were there lots of poorly made ones too. Really appreciate LAZY DAZE even more after going.
2005 26.5 IB

Re: Driver side horizontal aluminum seam unglued
Reply #1
Hi Iggy; in response to your earlier question about 'sweet spots' for driving speed, it depends on the engine, transmission and rear end ratio. Mine likes 68 to 72 mph to cruise. The E350 that I have has a lower ratio differential than the E450, so that will affect the cruising speed.
    In response to your question about that corner separation; The material is ABS plastic that covers the corner between the cab width and the aluminum side material. Sadly these pieces do separate because of failure of the double sided tape the factory uses. (depends on your year of manufacture) On a 2001 MB I was working on recently, I just cleaned the gap with alcohol, inserted some fast cure 3M 5200 glue (caulk) and put some 3/4" #8 phillips pan head stainless screws along the edge at the bottom near the running board. I put some painters tape along the vertical edge of the plastic piece, after I cleaned off any glue that oozed out of that edge. If you don't, it is nearly impossible to clean it up after it cures. If I had more time I would have made a clamp out of  a piece of 2x4 and strapped it in place between the door frame and a convenient tree until it cured. I seem to remember someone using a wood piece stretched to a nearby fence to push the corner molding into place while the glue cured. YMMV.  RonB   (do a search on "corner molding separation")
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB

Re: Driver side horizontal aluminum seam unglued
Reply #2
Thanks RonB. That's what I'll do. Much appreciated.
2005 26.5 IB

Re: Driver side horizontal aluminum seam unglued
Reply #3
I also noticed my error is desccribing the seam: I meant to say vertical seam (not horizontal seam).
2005 26.5 IB

Re: Driver side horizontal aluminum seam unglued
Reply #4
So, on older LDs (2000 let's say) if the double-stick tape was used for corner molding, is the corner itself sealed with goo independent of the tape?  Or is the tape 'it'? 
2000 Front Lounge

Re: Driver side horizontal aluminum seam unglued
Reply #5
In my case it was only out about 1/2", and I didn't want to pry it out any further to see what was going on further in. My borescope (camera and light at the end of a flexible 3/8" wand) wasn't co-operating. I sprayed alcohol inside with a spray bottle and didn't see any debris wash out. Used warm air from a heat gun to ventilate it, didn't want to ignite fumes though. tried to scrape out some of the double sided tape with a plastic scraper before re-gluing it. Maybe somebody who has seen the structure underneath can chime in here.   RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB

Re: Driver side horizontal aluminum seam unglued
Reply #6
Sorry for the lack of proper jargon, but there is a horizontal seam that forms at each front sides of the coach where the exterior aluminum wall folds and curves to the front. This seam on the driver has slightly pealed open about the length of the driver side door.
How can I fix this?  It seems like it was originally glued together. Can I just do this myself?  If so, what product should I use.

The 'end 'caps' often pull loose, when the double-sided tape gives way and should be resealed to prevent water damage.
After cleaning and removing any damaged double-sided tape, the caps are reattached by glueing them into position using 3M 5200 Fast Cure  polyurethane. This is a well proven product used for decades in marine applications.
Before applying the adhesive, all surfaces not being glued should be fully covered in masking tape, to aid in cleaning and for a better finished appearance .
Window and seam sealing | Flickr
Do wear old clothes and disposable gloves, the 3M 5200 is very sticky and difficult to removed.

To secure the end caps in position, while the glue cures,  I use #8 X 1" stainless-steel sheet-metal screws, laid out in an even pattern. Lay out and pre-drilled the screw holes, in the caps,  before glueing.
Untitled | lw5315us | Flickr
Prepping an end cap for repair | Tape off everything that is… | Flickr

Searching my user name and 'end caps' will show dozens of previous postings on the hows and whys of end cap repair.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze

Re: Driver side horizontal aluminum seam unglued
Reply #7
So that's what they're called. Thanks Larry
2005 26.5 IB