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Topic: Crack in left (rear) vertical end cap  (Read 565 times) previous topic - next topic
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Crack in left (rear) vertical end cap
Hello, fellow LDers!
  I've been getting acquainted with my new-to-me 2006 23.5 front lounge (got it two weeks ago, 12/17, from the original owners in So Cal just a few miles from the Mothership)
   All has been goodness so far except I noticed last wee a small crack running vertically in the blue section of the left rear end cap.  Is this just a cosmetic issue or perhaps something more serious, structurally?  My fear of course is possibility of water intrusion.  Thinking perhaps a small bead of Lexel(?) in the crack.  Or if it's really serious, take it over to Montclair and have LD take a look at it, and possibly replace / reseal that segment of end cap?
   I'm brand new to this forum and this is my first post (although I've been reading a lot-- so much great info!)
  Look forward to any insight/advice, thanks :-)
 Daryl
Daryl 
2007  26.5’ mid-bath, “Blu Tent“
2021 Jeep Wrangler Sport S
  (previously 2006 23.5’ front lounge)
SKP #145689
Re: Crack in left (rear) vertical end cap
Reply #1 –
Cracks in the end cap are very common. A search on the forum should find many hits. We have an 06 as well.

I spoke with Vince at the factory many years ago and was told that in our vintage you shouldn't have to worry about leaks as the corners are so well sealed. I still run a bit of sealant in them to make me feel better.

Jim
Re: Crack in left (rear) vertical end cap
Reply #2 –

A product I've used successfully for small, hairline cracks.
I would get the smallest drill bit I could find, drill a hole at each end of the crack to keep it from running, then use Captain Tolleys.

Amazon.com: Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure 8oz Bottle: Home Improvement

Welcome to the world of RVing, where if it's not one thing it's another. 🤷‍♂️


The experts will chime in about the longer and wider vertical crack in your first photo. Captain Tolleys is for hairline cracks only.

A question. Were these cracks there two weeks ago when you bought it or did they just now appear?

Ed

As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
Re: Crack in left (rear) vertical end cap
Reply #3 –
If you are at all close to the factory I would get my hiney over there ASAP and let them take a look. Mother[ship] knows best!   ::)
Steve S.
Lazy Bones & Cedar
2004 30'IB (Island Bed)
Yesterday is History, Tomorrow is a Mystery
Live for the day!
Re: Crack in left (rear) vertical end cap
Reply #4 –
Quote from: Lazy Bones  - 
If you are at all close to the factory I would get my hiney over there ASAP and let them take a look. Mother[ship] knows best!   ::)

Before I travelled there, I would call to get an estimate on replacing that piece of trim plus how long will it take.
The price may help you decide if it's a DIY project or not.

Ed
Re: Crack in left (rear) vertical end cap
Reply #5 –
From the photos these seem repairable, and on that vintage the underlying framework should be well sealed.  If you don't mind looking at them, a repair seems reasonable. When you price the cost of a new end cap you may even find these blemishes attractive! Unless I had to, (which I did), I would not replace end caps. If I had to and I was smart, (I am not), I would have the factory do it. Mine turned out OK but it is a big job. 
Paul
'92 Mid Bath
Re: Crack in left (rear) vertical end cap
Reply #6 –
The same type of hairline crack developed in our 2011 MB.  I called Vince and he recommended to use the Locktite PL 240 sealant to fill in the cracks.  I think this is the same stuff they use to seal virtually everything.  I picked up a tube a the Home Depot for about $9.00.  For me, it was important to get it done before water could get in and freeze, thereby expanding the crack.  Crappy weather here in the Northeast now.  Good Luck with your repair.  Bob
2011 MB
Re: Crack in left (rear) vertical end cap
Reply #7 –

The LD factory uses Loctite PL S40 as a sealant:

Loctite PL S40 Window Door and Siding Sealant from Loctite Adhesives

Many on this board have used 3M's 5200 Fast-Cure Marine Sealant to end caps, around window frames, and on most other sealing projects on the LD.

3M 05220 Marine Adhesive/Sealant 5200 Fast Cure, 3 oz. / White: Industrial...

A search on 3M 5200 should bring up many past posts on this sealant and how to use it effectively.

The OP might also want to check the Lazy Daze Companion for end cap sealant information; the link is on the home page of this message board.

Happy New Year!

Joan

As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
2003 TK has a new home
Re: Crack in left (rear) vertical end cap
Reply #8 –
Are people using the Loctite PL s40 product on the roof around the vents and on the roof rack?
2005 MB
Re: Crack in left (rear) vertical end cap
Reply #9 –
thanks, everyone, for all the replies & info!   I've been traveling since New Years & just now getting caught up in the online world… 
  I'm glad to hear that it's not an urgent, structural  issue & more cosmetic.  So I think what I'll do is when I do plan to take her in to the Mothership (not far away!) for other reason(s) I'll have them take a look at the crack and perhaps get an estimate for repair/replace and decide then whether to just leave it or not with some sealant in the crack.   When I visited my folks on Monday, Dad (who collects classic cars & very mechanically-inclined) suggested the Lexel sealant.   After blowing out  the cracks with compressed air and cleaning the area around it, we put a bead of  Lexel in the larger vertical crack & the hairline one above it.  It's completely clear & paintable if needed and can dry/cure even if wet.  Seems like a great product & Dad swears by it!   At least I feel I've done something proactive for it until I have it checked out at the factory.
    Cosmetically, it doesn't really bother me & assuming no problem with the cracks growing or water leaking thru, may just leave it be!
   thanks again everybody & happy New Year :-)
Daryl
Daryl 
2007  26.5’ mid-bath, “Blu Tent“
2021 Jeep Wrangler Sport S
  (previously 2006 23.5’ front lounge)
SKP #145689
Re: Crack in left (rear) vertical end cap
Reply #10 –
Daryl

Cracks of this type are very common.
The Lexel sealant should do the trick. The backside of the cap opens into a drainage passage, that allows any moisture that gets in to drain downward, to the exterior.
Do plan on replacing the sealant as it will eventually break loose, with time.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Crack in left (rear) vertical end cap
Reply #11 –
Quote from: BILL BENSON  - 
Are people using the Loctite PL s40 product on the roof around the vents and on the roof rack?

Yes. I can't recall the first time I heard it referenced - either Vince or Larry - but I've had a tube ever since.

Note that it's white - for windows or other non-white areas (like the painted section of cracked end caps), I use Dap 3.0 clear coat. Otherwise, I use the Loctite exclusively. For example, the white top section of end caps. Even though it's not a white-to-white color match, it's close enough.
Re: Crack in left (rear) vertical end cap
Reply #12 –
Quote from: LazDazGuy  - 
thanks, everyone, for all the replies & info!   I've been traveling since New Years & just now getting caught up in the online world… 
  I'm glad to hear that it's not an urgent, structural  issue & more cosmetic.  So I think what I'll do is when I do plan to take her in to the Mothership (not far away!) for other reason(s) I'll have them take a look at the crack and perhaps get an estimate for repair/replace and decide then whether to just leave it or not with some sealant in the crack.   When I visited my folks on Monday, Dad (who collects classic cars & very mechanically-inclined) suggested the Lexel sealant.   After blowing out  the cracks with compressed air and cleaning the area around it, we put a bead of  Lexel in the larger vertical crack & the hairline one above it.  It's completely clear & paintable if needed and can dry/cure even if wet.  Seems like a great product & Dad swears by it!   At least I feel I've done something proactive for it until I have it checked out at the factory.
    Cosmetically, it doesn't really bother me & assuming no problem with the cracks growing or water leaking thru, may just leave it be!
   thanks again everybody & happy New Year :-)
Daryl

Lexel is a good product. Used it for sealing on my last RV (Hi-Lo trailer).
Greg & Victoria
2017 Mid-Bath  “Nocona” towing a manual 2015 Forester
Previously a 1985 TK
SKP #61264
Re: Crack in left (rear) vertical end cap
Reply #13 –
Quote from: BILL BENSON  - 
Are people using the Loctite PL s40 product on the roof around the vents and on the roof rack?
For top coating the vents, antennas and roof rack, the Loctite is OK.
It isn't as good a product as the 3M 5200 FastCure, but not needed in this application, where nothing is being sealed, instead, the old  sealant covering is just getting another coat.
Actually, for this use, a Doctor sealant would be my choice for a long lasting job.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
 
Re: Crack in left (rear) vertical end cap
Reply #14 –
A "Dicor" sealant, Larry? Which one?

Joan
2003 TK has a new home
Re: Crack in left (rear) vertical end cap
Reply #15 –
Quote from: JCT  - 
A "Dicor" sealant    Which one?
Dicor is a longlasting sealant, made originally for rubber roofs.
Mike Sylvester, the RV Guy, told me about it years ago. He found it to be an effective, economical sealant that lasted a long time.
It comes in two types, self-leveling and non-sag.
Either works.
For covering old, flat sealant, the self-leveling type works well and looks good.
When the sealant needs to cover a vertical surface or a slope, the non-sag stays in place better. The self-leveling will flow if the grade is steep enough.
The non-sag is cosmetically inferior, it doesn't smooth out much but it stays in place. Using a small putty knife, it can be placed in hard to reach places.
A favorite tool is an small artist trowel.
Self leveling
Amazon.com: Dicor 501LSW-1 Lap Sealant - 10.3 oz.: Home Improvement
Non-sag
Amazon.com: Dicor 551LSW1 White Non-Sag Roof Lap Sealant - 10.3 oz. Tube:...

FYI - Newer LDs roof seams are sealed with a non-saging polyurethane. You can see the blade marks where it was smoothed out, at the Factory.
Effective but not as attractive as the old self-leveling polyurethane. Who cares?, it's on the roof, out of sight.

Before top coating any old sealant, scrub well with soap and water, rinse and dry.
Deeper cleaning may be needed and will require wiping with acetone or lacquer thinner.
I use an organic respirator and gloves when cleaning with solvents.
Amazon.com: 3M 07192 Paint Spray Resp. Medium: Automotive
The surface needs to be clean for the new sealant to stick.

Larry
As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Crack in left (rear) vertical end cap
Reply #16 –
Quote from: Ed D.  - 
Before I travelled there, I would call to get an estimate on replacing that piece of trim plus how long will it take.
The price may help you decide if it's a DIY project or not.

Ed
Jack - Teal 2003 IB31
Southeastern LD  #19 •• Southwestern LD  #14  ••
LD Caravan  #2999
Re: Crack in left (rear) vertical end cap
Reply #17 –
About 2 years ago, Vince gave me quote of $700± to change one (1) rear end cap on our 2003 IB30. We were fortunate that a good friend did an excellent re-seal for much less.  NOTE:  he no longer does these ... least you wonder!!
Jack - Teal 2003 IB31
Southeastern LD  #19 •• Southwestern LD  #14  ••
LD Caravan  #2999