Lazy Daze Owners' Group

I think so because according to the price guide, it should be 12K.  It needs all new tires, the roof needs to be sealed, I worry that the brakes haven't been touched in years and it has that problematic front overcab window.  I think I'll look elsewhere.

Thank you.

AFAIK, the sticker on the jamb of the driver's side door should have the date of the chassis manufacture; a plate on the driver's side should state the build date of the "box". The two dates may not be the same; it's not uncommon for a chassis manufacture date to precede the box build date, sometimes by several months.

If it has the front window it can't be a 93, the window was eliminated some years before that. It may look like it has windows from the outside because LD painted on faux windows for some years afterward. Prices are somewhat dependent on location, LD in Socal seem to ask higher prices than elsewhere for example. I paid more than I expected but after looking a long time I just wanted to go camping!

Yes Mimi, immediate. The first thing we discovered when we cleaned it up was rot. Which, like rot always does, was promiscuous. The second thing was another bit of rot. After that fix, which was extensive, I began upgrading (repairing) things.

Mechanically ours was/is doing well. New tires, fluids and filters.  I chose to do other work to it that was not critical, like fuel pump, power steering pump, suspension.

I was wondering why it's important to know the date of the chassis compared to the rig and how does that effect the value?

Finding rot is a challenge sometimes for anyone not specifically looking for it. Make sure your inspector is aware of the LD construction and weaknesses. Like the corner end caps, roof seams, bathroom window.

I was wondering why it's important to know the date of the chassis compared to the rig and how does that effect the value?

"Rot can also exist in the roof, where a vent, antenna  or the roof A/C is leaking."

That happened to me recently. During a recent rainstorm, I awoke to find the left (aft) foot area of my overcab bed soaked. My Flir 1 thermal camera showed a leak in the roof (irregular purple area in attached photo). A thermal camera is a handy way to spot fresh leaks, because evaporating water is always cooler than dry wood.

So I used my MultiMaster oscillating tool to cut away a couple square feet of the ceiling in the area shown to be damp. This revealing a dripping mass of sodden fiberglass insulation.

Once I'd cleared that away, I could see that the leak originated in the corner near the triangular steel gusset plate that reinforces the roll bar. I peeled away the carpeting covering the gusset and saw several cables coming into that area. There was a fair amount of damage to the wood, and it was obvious that this was not a recent leak. Fortunately the structural integrity of the beams didn't seem to be seriously compromised, as shown by poking in various places with an awl. And the fact that the damaged rafter was sistered to a one-inch steel roll bar gave me confidence that my overcab was in no immediate danger of collapsing.

Going up on the roof, I saw that the old FM antenna was located in that area, which immediately made me suspicious. The FM and CB antennas had been struck by lightning six years ago, and the old antenna mount had been unused since then--covered by a blob of sealant. Unfortunately, the sealant didn't cover the entire area, and upon inspection, it turned out that the exposed factory sealant was not only cracked but literally full of holes.

Cutting off the antenna mount flush with the roof using the MultiMaster revealed that the lightning had actually burned holes in the aluminum roof. Between that and the damaged sealant, water had been leaking into the roof, probably since the lightning strike. Pouring water onto the area demonstrated that this was indeed the entry point--it came right through into the ceiling below.

I chiseled away a 3" circle of aluminum roof around the hole that the antenna cable used to enter the coach. Underneath I found an area of blackened wood--probably charred by lightning and then rotted by water.

I made a temporary patch from aluminum flashing, and secured it with a generous amount of Bed-It butyl tape. (This brand was recommended by a boater friend, who says it holds up much better than other brands.) To ensure good adhesion, I heated both the roof area and the patch with a hair dryer before and after applying it.

Subsequent rains showed no further leakage, so I'm pretty sure I took care of the problem. I plan to replace the temporary patch with something more substantial once I get back to drier climes. And I have yet to cover up that hole in the ceiling--I plan on letting it dry out thoroughly for a month or so.

It had taken me six years to discover this potentially serious leak because I normally camp in the dry Southwest. I learned from this experience that I should have carefully inspected all seals on my roof--cable entries, vents, solar panel mounts, etc.--to make sure none were compromised.

As usual great advice from Larry.

This is the reason we have audible water leak detectors by the water pump and under the sink. Not too long ago our water pump failed and we got the warning before damage occurred. This reminds me we need to check the batteries in them.

Jim

Just offering as one reason the advertised date may not match date on title once you get that far.

Definitely agree with Larry it's mostly about condition and one year diff isn't going to factor in too much other than potentially causing it to fall outside your search range or if financing since bank will value it based on the titled year.

I used this guy based on his user reviews to inspect an RV in the Orange county area.
RV Inspection Sothern California

 He provides a basic checklist with photos and comments on questionable items and talks to you before and after.  It was worth it to me in deciding whether to move on or go see it.

Rich