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Resealing roof
The dreaded time is here.  Time to reseal the roof seams and any other seals up there that may require attention.  Nothing about this process is new but I am using some tools that are making my misery much more bearable. 

I'm using a 6-foot scaffold so I can work standing comfortably at the side of the rig.  I'm also using a Dremel multi-tool with the solid scraper blade.  This tool makes fast and easy work of removing the factory parlastic sealing.  I have been amazed at how well this tool scrapes the sealant  right down to the aluminum roof.  This tool also does quick and easy removal of old Dicor sealant around the various fixtures on the roof that require it.

Nothing really special here about roof sealing except that I wanted to pass along my use of the scaffold and mechanical scraper.  Those two tools make a world of difference in ease and comfort while doing this work.  The scaffold is the Metalwerks or Werner set that is available at Home Depot for $199.  I've had the Dremel multi-tool for a while and it's drywall cutting blade makes quick work of dry wall cuts.  The scraper blade is just perfect for roof sealant removal.

I'll post a couple of pictures with this.

Dan and Lynn
2007 IB-30
2007 IB-30
Re: Resealing roof
Reply #1 –
Mineral spirits leaves an oily film when it dries.
The Eternabond site recommends lacquer thinner, acetone, or denatured alcohol because they evaporate quickly and leave no residue.

http://www.eternabond.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/eb_hvac_tips_install.pdf


I used acetone both times I did this and it worked real well.
Not saying spirits won't work OK but the Eternabond site doesn't list it as a recommended cleaner.

Ed
Re: Resealing roof
Reply #2 –
Good advice, Ed.  I haven't used any yet.  I think I'll switch my cleaning solvent to acetone.  Thanks for the heads up.

Dan
2007 IB-30
Re: Resealing roof
Reply #4 –
Dan and Lynn,
I'm not an expert on Lazy Daze roofs, but I have resealed my fifth wheel and aluminum camper roof several times.  Like the Lazy Daze, the camper roof is a single sheet of aluminum.

If you need to remove Dicor sealant, it really helps to heat it up with a heat gun first and then begin to remove it with a putty knife. It can often then be peeled off by holding the now loose end of the sealant with pliers and pulling it off the roof while heating the interface gently with the heat gun.  This makes the job go much faster with less scratches on the aluminum roof.

Others have mentioned 3M 5200.  I don't use this on anything that will ever have to be removed again.  The next owner of the rig will curse you and your offspring.  It is amazingly strong and horrible to have to remove.  I once tried to remove some deck hardware on a boat that someone had attached with screws and 5200 and the adhesive tore off some of the fiberglass gel coat.  Nasty stuff.

When re-installing new vents, AC units, fantastic fans, etc I always use butyl tape.  It is waterproof, seals minor imperfections and can be removed when it is time to do the job again.

That's my .02.  YMMV.  Good luck on the job.
2014 27 MB
Towd: Either the Jeep Wrangler or trailer containing the BMW R1200GS and 2 E-bicycles
Happy wife=Happy life
Re: Resealing roof
Reply #6 –

A vibratory tool, with a sharp chisel blade, cuts through the Factory roof seam sealant like butter.
Roof seam reseal | Flickr

If using Eternabond tape, usually it isn't necessary to remove the sealant except where it is showing damage.
The front corners of the roof almost always have some indication of damage or bubbles in the sealant. which I cut out and patch with a little 3M 5200 Fast Cure.
The tape is applied after all the bubbles and other damage sections of sealant are removed and patched.
While 4" tape will cover the Factory roof sealant, the 6" tape does a much better job, In return, it is much more difficult to manipulate.

I fully agree not to use 3M 5200 on things that will need to be disassembled, but it doesn't, it is a great choice for permanent glueing and sealing. I have never had it fail in almost 30 years of use, when the surface is properly prepped.

Either acetone or lacquer thinner works for cleaning, after giving the roof a good scrubbing with soap and water .
When using solvents and or paints in quantity, I wear a organic vapor face filter.
3M R-7513ES Professional Half-Mask Organic Vapor, P95 Respirator, Large -...

As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Resealing roof
Reply #7 –
Quote from: Larry Wade  - 

A vibratory tool, with a sharp chisel blade, cuts through the Factory roof seam sealant like butter.


Larry, I'm fairly certain it was your pictures I looked at some time ago that gave me the idea to use the vibrating scraper when it came to be my turn in the barrel.  Works just like you said.  My worn out shoulders and hands haven't complained at all from the use of that tool.

As for the use of 3M 5200, I cannot think of a more robust sealant to use in sealing the roof seams.  The environment is harsh up there.  Since I'm covering with Eternabond, I have no doubt that I am safe in claiming I'm doing it on this rig only once in my lifetime.

I used acetone for my cleaning solvent and it worked very well.  I have two of those VOC vapor filters and use them faithfully whenever I spray anything.  Good choice.

Hope to see you at Quartzsite this year, but if not, we'll be at Morro Bay.

Dan
2007 IB-30
Re: Resealing roof
Reply #8 –
Thanks for the idea to use my Dremel multi tool to get the seal off. I was at the mothership last week talking about a reseal. They are currently using Loctite PL S40 to seal the roofs. I got the idea that they are not fans of Eternabond. Attached is a picture of what it looks like on the floor model.
2005 MB
Re: Resealing roof
Reply #9 –
"I got the idea that they are not fans of Eternabond."
----
The factory is not a "fan" of Eternabond not because the product doesn't do the re-sealing job well, but because the tape is extremely difficult to remove if they (or anyone) has to do a post-E-bond repair that involves getting the stuff off.

The tenacity of E-bond is pretty much the point of the whole product, of course!  ;)  If/when E-bond fails, the cause is likely due to either a bad roll of product (lack of adhesion) or sloppy/improper surface preparation and/or application. Obviously, the sealed areas should be periodically checked for any bubbles, lifting, and/or scraped or gouged areas that compromise the tape's integrity, usually from tree branches.

As ever, YMMV.

Joan

2003 TK has a new home
Re: Resealing roof
Reply #10 –
Quote from: JCT  - 
"I got the idea that they are not fans of Eternabond."
----
The factory is not a "fan" of Eternabond not because the product doesn't do the re-sealing job well, but because the tape is extremely difficult to remove if they (or anyone) has to do a post-E-bond repair that involves getting the stuff off.

I'm in the process of removing an small Eternabond patch on a friends LD. The tape's adhesive sticks like crazy and is very hard to remove, that's why it is such an effective product.
Just do the job right the first time.

With a properly prepared roof, Eternabond is a permanent solution for maintaining the roof seal.
Eternabond was originally designed for flat, membrane-type roofs, seen on commercial buildings. I have inspected 30 year old roofs, sealed with the tape, that are still in good shape.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Resealing roof
Reply #11 –
Quote from: JCT  - 

The factory is not a "fan" of Eternabond not because the product doesn't do the re-sealing job well, but because the tape is extremely difficult to remove if they (or anyone) has to do a post-E-bond repair that involves getting the stuff off.

The tenacity of E-bond is pretty much the point of the whole product, of course!  ;)  If/when E-bond fails, the cause is likely due to either a bad roll of product (lack of adhesion) or sloppy/improper surface preparation and/or application. Obviously, the sealed areas should be periodically checked for any bubbles, lifting, and/or scraped or gouged areas that compromise the tape's integrity, usually from tree branches.


Eternabond has a exceptional reputation in the commercial roofing marketplace for durability and longevity.  The removal of the tape itself involves the application of direct heat which separates the tape from the sealant.  It is not necessary to remove any remaining sealant because it will completely bond with a new application of tape.  The two reasons for trouble with an Eternabond application are failure to properly clean the surface area before installation and failure to use adequate pressure to bond the tape to the substrate.    There is an Eternabond video that demonstrates all of these points:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AGiKusd5r8A

I would never use Eternabond tape to seal vents, air conditioners or antennas because these are items that may need to be removed for replacement or service over the lifetime of the rig.  No reason to expect relative permanency.  But as for the roof joints at the side and front caps, I have chosen to reseal my rig in a manner that provides the least chance of needing to repeat the work during the time I own it. 

I also believe it is an acceptable practice to place a new layer of EB over an existing layer so long as surface preparation details are followed.  I know you can lap sections of EB without problems.

I have heard that the factory doesn't like EB.  The factory has demonstrated over the years that they operate under a business model that is unique to the industry involving a combination of family pride, a time-tested design, and the economics involved in any retooling or change.  It may be that their EB objections are more based in economics on the production line and in the service bay than any actual objection to the efficacy of the product.  I've never interacted with the factory and my knowledge about these matters is anecdotal from campfire settings.

And this is just humor (duly labeled -  :)  ;)  :D  ;D - If you've hit tree branches that have left you with disrupted Eternabond seals, then you probably have a lot more to worry about than the Eternabond tape...  :)

Dan
2007 IB-30
Re: Resealing roof
Reply #12 –
"If you've hit tree branches that have left you with disrupted Eternabond seals, then you probably have a lot more to worry about than the Eternabond tape."
----
What? Me worry? I'm very careful, but these little rubs/scuffs/snags can be pretty easy to get when one is navigating a widebody rig in a tight campground or on very narrow roads with overhanging tree branches!  And, yes, Eternabond patches/laps very easily!  :D
2003 TK has a new home
Re: Resealing roof
Reply #13 –
Quote from: dsandsaz  - 
The dreaded time is here.  Time to reseal the roof seams and any other seals up there that may require attention.  Nothing about this process is new but I am using some tools that are making my misery much more bearable. 

Your various posts on this thread have given me hope that this might be something I can do.  I especially like the idea of using Eternabond on the seams and self-leveling sealant on the other areas.   To be honest, I've struggled with which material to use to reseal the roof for most of this last year.   I've read nearly every post on this subject within the LDO Forum hoping I find sufficient guidance to make a decision.

At any rate, can you tell me about how many hours it took you to complete this project?  And thanks in advance.
Re: Resealing roof
Reply #14 –
Quote from: Traxless  - 
Your various posts on this thread have given me hope that this might be something I can do.  I especially like the idea of using Eternabond on the seams and self-leveling sealant on the other areas.   To be honest, I've struggled with which material to use to reseal the roof for most of this last year.   I've read nearly every post on this subject within the LDO Forum hoping I find sufficient guidance to make a decision.

At any rate, can you tell me about how many hours it took you to complete this project?  And thanks in advance.

If I can do this - you can do this. I am way over weight, got bad knees but a good attitude.  I read everything I could on the forums that Larry and others printed, and watched several YouTube videos.   Rather than doing it in a day I took parts of several days to do this.  Of course that required washing the roof three times, but not a big deal.  I did the passenger side first.   That is because it is a forgiving straight run and you can learn a method and working style.  I started at the back and worked forward so if the tape overlaps at a the overlap is facing down wind when driving.   That is in my mind more important on the drivers side where there are vents and skylights and stuff to get around, but even on the passenger side there may come a time where you have to make a seam because there is no un-sticking a mangeled run.  The tape has a backing.  To keep from messing up a run I would only take a few inches - to a maybe foot - of backing off at a time.  I did not have a scaffolding, but just moved a ladder down the side.  A neighbor came by to help me on during the project.  He would wipe an area ahead of me with the acetone and follow behind me giving the tape a second shot with the wooden roller. 
The most important thing to remember is that if you start to get flustered, stop, take a break to calm down then restart.  It might be a good idea to turn the cell phone off so there are fewer interruptions.
John
07 Mid Bath
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Currently: 2008 36' Tiffin Open Road
Previously: 2007 Mid Bath
Re: Resealing roof
Reply #15 –
Quote from: Traxless  - 
Your various posts on this thread have given me hope that this might be something I can do.  I especially like the idea of using Eternabond on the seams and self-leveling sealant on the other areas.  To be honest, I've struggled with which material to use to reseal the roof for most of this last year.  I've read nearly every post on this subject within the LDO Forum hoping I find sufficient guidance to make a decision.

At any rate, can you tell me about how many hours it took you to complete this project?  And thanks in advance.

Ed,

Take a look at John Dacrema's post just after yours.  That's me.  I'm right with everything he said.  As to time, I haven't finished yet.  I'm retired, 25 years older than when I was 40, my shoulders don't work so well anymore and there is no way I could work from the top of a ladder doing this or by squatting over on my knees on the roof.  Using the scaffold allows me to work on the roof seams while standing comfortably with a 6-foot length of work space before I have to dismount the scaffold and move it another 6 feet.

I have finished the port side roof seam and now, probably next weekend, I will do the starboard side.  I'm in no hurry.  But if I had to estimate time involved, I think that if you remove the factory sealant, as I did, and replace it with the sealant of your choice, you want to follow the sealant manufacturer's instructions on waited for the new sealant to cure before you overlay it with Eternabond tape.  That is what I'm doing here.  So you have to factor the cure time of the sealant into your work if you are going to overlay with Eternabond.  That's just my take on it.

Don't worry too much about your selection of a sealant.  Just use one of the good sealing compounds that you've seen recommended here in the Lazy Daze Forum universe / knowledge base.  My choice is my just that.  You may find something you prefer for your project.

I do recommend that you set a deadline date for finishing this project.  That is what I did.  We all know that keeping the integrity of our weather seals are key to a long service life of the rig's living space.  If your inspection of your roof seals tells you that it is time to act, don't delay.  Water damage is the insidious destroyer of all RV's that are not properly maintained.

AND... even though I'm comfortable while working using the scaffold, I am still going to have to go up on the roof to service the seals around the air conditioner, and the roof vents.  But I'll take that work in stride and do it like John Dacrema recommends in his post.

Just a post script - this scaffold has a lot of potential for other Lazy Daze maintenance.  Set at lower levels, it allow you to comfortably reach any surface on the side of the rig for cleaning, waxing, or other maintenance.  I have some awning maintenance to do and the scaffold is going to work a lot better that balancing on a ladder.  If you are full-time and don't have sticks and bricks anymore, you can rent one of these from Home Depot and use it at a friend's house somewhere out on the trail.  They are easily transported in any vehicle.  130 pounds bundled in the package if you buy it but it you rented it, the individual pieces are easily managed by one person.

Dan
2007 IB-30
Re: Resealing roof
Reply #16 –
Please know that we are mighty grateful for the very full and thoughtful discussion on this topic.  It has been immensely helpful and has help me to solidify our plan of attack.  Thanks so much.
 
Re: Resealing roof
Reply #17 –
I need to get something straight here.  Is it necessary to remove the old sealant?  if the old is removed do you need to seal again before using enterabond?

Paul
Re: Resealing roof
Reply #18 –
Quote from: Paul Dixon  - 
I need to get something straight here.  Is it necessary to remove the old sealant?  if the old is removed do you need to seal again before using enterabond?

Paul

I don't think so, Paul.  Larry Wade reports his opinion is to remove only what appears seriously weathered and then cover with Eternabond.  My choice was to remove all the original sealant and replace it, let it cure then cover with Eternabond.  I've seen this diversity of opinion in a number of places here.  I think it would possible to remove the old sealant and just lay down the Eternabond but that wouldn't leave me feeling like I had done a good job.  Safe driving and weather seals.  The most important parts of RV ownership.  ;)

Dan
2007 IB-30
Re: Resealing roof
Reply #19 –
Each reseal seems to cover larger and larger areas until they are removed to base material.
The rainy season has started on the west coast.  A leak is present and No Cover.  Clean and lap joint sealant calk NOW!  Maybe even Black Jack, heaven forbid! 

My 88 MB escape hatch leaked with eterna bond tape and smooth white sealant.  The clear amber caulk on the other vents are weather checked to metal.  I peeled up lap joint sealant and eterna bond tape to find the dirt tracks to the leak. Found none.  The dirt accumulations under the hinge and local caulk dams, lead me to a damaged miter joint in the frame's original install.  Lap joint sealant for now, even if it is an UGLY UGLY sight! Redo later. 
Still checking (for leaks)!

R
P.S. Hatch Date 04 88  Mothership's PO Date 6/88.
Rodney
1988 Mid Bath
Re: Resealing roof
Reply #20 –
Quote from: Paul Dixon  - 
I need to get something straight here.  Is it necessary to remove the old sealant?  if the old is removed do you need to seal again before using enterabond?
Paul, I did not remove any of the old sealant.  None of the edges were turning up and no screws were poking through.  The RV was 7ish years old so it was getting time to start thinking about doing something.  Lucky for me the previous owner (in CA) stored the RV indoors for the couple years he had it.  I used the 6 inch tape and did not find it that hard to work with.  The passenger side is easy to do; the driver side is a challenge on the mid bath because of the roof vents and shower skylight; the front is a little bit of a challenge because you have to be on the roof (I have bad knees)  I looked at the roof the other day a year and a half on and the tape looks good.  No bubbles or marks from trees. 
In my picture you will see a scrap 1x4 board.  I used that as a weight for trash, a cutting board, and note pad.  It was very handy.  Because it was long I did not have to move it every time I moved the ladder.  I also padded the ladder with pipe insulation and tape to protect the RV's paint.
John
Currently: 2008 36' Tiffin Open Road
Previously: 2007 Mid Bath
Re: Resealing roof
Reply #21 –
Quote from: Paul Dixon  - 
I need to get something straight here.  Is it necessary to remove the old sealant?  if the old is removed do you need to seal again before using Eternabond?
If the original sealant is intact, I leave it alone, except for any spots where the sealant has spread wider than 2".
Wide spots get trimmed to provide at least 1" of coverage on each side for the tape to stick to. The spots where the sealant has been removed needs to be cleaned down to bare metal, for best adhesion. Any remaining old sealant will keep the Eternabond tape from sticking. If necessary to sand into the bare aluminum, the exposed metal should be primed with a aluminum etcher, to provide the best surface.
Klean-Strip 1 gal. Phosphoric Prep and Etch-GKPA30220 - The Home Depot

The last couple of years, when I was still resealing roofs, I switched from the 4' to the 6" wide Eternabond Tape. It provides an extra inch of coverage, on each side of the seam.
I never had a failure using either size tapes. One roll of tape was defective and would stick, while unrolling. The sticking caused the tape to stretch out of shape...what a mess..
A few roofs had been previously coated with a reflective trailer roof coating. In this situation, total stripping, sanding and etching is required to provide a usable surface.
If silicone was ever used on the roof, it may be next to impossible to get a useable surface. Silicone 'poisons' the surface, nothing will stick to it unless totally removed down to bare metal.
The message is to clean, clean, clean.

A simple roof seam project can be completed in 4-6 hours, depending on how long it takes to dry the roof, after scrubbing with soap and water.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Resealing roof
Reply #22 –
Before I re-sealed the roof on my 2003 over four years ago, I read all the advice and experience reports available on doing the job correctly, assessed the condition of my rig's roof seams, then gathered/ordered the project tools (including the E-bond roller)and Eternabond from Best Materials (http://www.bestmaterials.com/Eternabond.aspx).

NB: I ordered two rolls of 4" E-bond; IMO, the 4" is easier to work with than the 6", and covers the seams completely. I used one 50' roll and about 10' of the second roll for a 23.5' rig.

I worked from the top of the rig, using knee pads and/or a large foam gardening kneeling pad; at the time, the roof had only two solar panels, so access to the sides and to the front cap seam was easier than it would be now with an additional panel.
 
The whole job of cleaning, prepping, marking, cutting, and sealing took me about 12 hours total over a three-day period in cool, dry weather (late March in northern CA). You time may be more or less depending on a lot of variables!

The entire roof was first scrubbed thoroughly with Simple Green, warm water, and a stiff scrub brush, rinsed, then the areas to be sealed were scrubbed and rinsed again. All of the original sealant itself was still sound; ugly and amber-colored, but no cracks or lumps, so I didn't feel that it was necessary to remove it before prepping the surfaces and applying the tape. (If it had been, the job site would have been in Larry's driveway!  :D )

The integrity of each screw as checked; the few which had "popped" slightly were re-seated. I cleaned each re-set screw area with acetone, then cut and stuck small, rounded-corner pieces of E-bond over each screw (that had risen up a little).
 
I made a 4" cardboard template and pencil-marked the "coverage area" for tape placement with a straight edge along the whole length of all the seam lines, then carefully cleaned/prepped each section of the seams to be sealed with acetone right before sealing, allowing it to dry completely; it doesn't take long!

NB: I suggest doing the final surface prep with acetone on areas to be sealed very shortly before taping rather than cleaning all the to-be-sealed surfaces with acetone, then leaving the tape application for later. You might be surprised at what can collect on the supposedly clean surfaces between acetone and tape application, and if there's surface "dirt", the tape will NOT stick.

I applied the E-bond slowly, peeling off the backing a little at a time, and taking care not to stretch it or allow it to bunch or "bubble" or get off-course, using the roller to stick everything down completely as I went along. (The tape ends were rounded off with scissors [with the backing still on the end of the tape!] to prevent sharp corners from lifting.)

NB: The front seam between the cap and the roof had been E-bonded not long after delivery; the initial sealing on that seam was, frankly, a crap job. Dirt and water had gotten under the original sealant and had bubbled the seam; I dug out all the original sealant, cleaned and dried the seam, and applied E-bond. When the rest of the seams were done, this area got another cleaning and re-application of E-bond.

The following comments are my opinion: as always, YMMV.

E-bonding the roof seams is quite a bit cheaper than having a factory re-seal done, but it's not an easy job; it can be physically demanding, particularly hard on the knees and the back. Doing the necessary thorough cleaning and prep takes time and energy and using the right materials. Eternabond is not forgiving; once it's down, do-overs are very difficult. (Occasionally, one gets a bad roll and the adhesive doesn't stick at all or sticks randomly; those to whom this has happened can speak to their reactions!) Haste, poor cleaning and surface preparation, and sloppy application are job quality killers; if one has any doubts about his/her ability to do the job properly, s/he will want to research options, e.g., supervising a competent "helper" or having the factory do a re-seal. I would not turn the job over to an RV shop that is not familiar with aluminum roofs and may not clean and prep well and/or slop some inappropriate material over the seams. However, your rig is your rig, and this is your decision.

I have a couple of areas to touch up (minor tree snags), but the integrity of the seal job has held up well. Good thing; I sure don't want to do it again!  ;)

Joan
 

2003 TK has a new home
Re: Resealing roof
Reply #23 –
Just a bit about the alternative, having the LD factory reseal your roof, which is what we did last May.

I have great respect for all who've posted here and know several of them personally. Done carefully and well I'm sure the Eternabond approach is a good one. If you want to go that route there is ample information to guide you.

I chose the factory approach because I figured I had trusted LD with everything else so far with good results, so why not continue that? I also wanted to be able to go back to them with problems and not encounter resistance due to botched DIY work. I made an appointment, we dropped the motorhome off on a Monday, got in our toad and headed to a motel in Coronado for the week (lovely town), came back on Friday and picked it up. About as easy as it gets I suspect.

LD resealed everything on the roof except the AC. Roof seams, vents, solar panel mounts, ladder/luggage rack mounts, antennas, etc. They completely removed the old sealant and replaced it with what they currently use, a more flexible, softer sealant, that is applied by hand, not floated on as the old sealant was, resulting in a thicker application.

As I recall, the cost was about $1500-1800. A lot of money out of pocket, but put in perspective not all that much. This is probably the single most important piece of maintenance when it comes to preserving your coach. Almost everything else can be easily repaired or replaced but if the wood frame gets wet your coach's days are likely numbered and its value greatly diminished, assuming you're honest with any buyer.

I always compare maintenance costs not with the current value of what is being maintained, but with its replacement cost. For instance I just had my mechanic replace the front air suspension on my 2005 Audi allroad, about $1200 on a car worth maybe $10,000, but one that would cost about $60,000 to replace with the current new equivalent. I can afford the repair cost but not the replacement cost. So, looked at one way, expensive. Another way, not so much. So I spent the money to protect my coach because I can't realistically afford to replace it with the new one I'd want should it need replacement.

Vince recommended replacing our front Fantastic Fan because the mounting flange on the old one was cracked and was likely to eventually become a source of leaks, especially given Lake Newton, which it sits in the middle of.

I also discussed with Vince the Eternabond option. His report was much as described by others here, that they'd been asked to fix some Eternabond jobs gone awry, in which case he found moisture under the misapplied Eternabond. He also said it was very hard to remove, greatly increasing the cost of the factory reseal he was now being asked to do.

Vince also reported that they've had good results with the new sealant they use and have not yet had to reseal any of those roofs, some now over eight years old as I recall. But who knows? We keep our motorhome indoors, our original roof sealant lasted 13 years and I'm 70 years old. I'm hoping not to have to redo it.

If you live in some proximity to the factory I would recommend having Vince examine your coach before you embark on any major repairs or maintenance. Their advice is free and based on extensive experience. It can always be ignored but isn't of much use after the fact.

Whatever your preferences the one thing I think everyone with some wisdom based on experience can agree upon is to take good care of your roof.

Terry
2003 26.5'RB
Gardnerville, NV
Terry
2003 26.5'RB
Gardnerville, NV
Re: Resealing roof
Reply #24 –
If I lived on the left coast I would have strongly considered having the factory to reseal our roof.   At the time I had not found a shop in the Washington DC area I got warm fuzzies with for roof work.  That has changed over time and now I have found a place I trust.  
Still now that I talk about the job in the past tense, there is a satisfaction in having done it myself.
John
Currently: 2008 36' Tiffin Open Road
Previously: 2007 Mid Bath