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Topic: How do you check to see if there is a break in a TV Cable? (Read 329 times) previous topic - next topic
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How do you check to see if there is a break in a TV Cable?
It was working fine last week, now nothing. Neither the TV or the DVR will tune a single station. It can not be the case that both tuners died at the same time, so it must be the cable from antenna.

So my question is how does one check to see if there is a break in a TV Cable? Should I see volts, continuity or what with a VOM?
Don & Dorothy
Sold our LD in June of 2023

Our boring always non-PC travel blog
Traveling Dorothy

Re: How do you check to see if there is a break in a TV Cable?
Reply #1
Here is a video, Don:

Checking Coax Cable
Greg & Victoria
2017 Mid-Bath  “Nocona” towing a manual 2015 Forester
Previously a 1985 TK
SKP #61264

 
Re: How do you check to see if there is a break in a TV Cable?
Reply #2
That is video is a good one!  It checks to make sure there is continuity of both the center conductor and braid plus you can install the clip leads at one end of an installed cable and measure at the other end. This approach would work even be better if one used 12 volts from the fuse panel and a light bulb with clip leads as an ohm meter.  That way any high resistance joint would show up.

There is also a possibility that Don's problem is something else.  One would get the same symptoms if the power to the amplifier in the antenna has been interrupted or if that amplifier died. 

Does the little light come on when you push the antenna switch on the TV outlet?  If so, then power is being supplied to the outlet plate.  If not, check your fuse panel (I don't remember which fuse).  If no fuses blown, pull the TV unit out of the wall and inspect it (this may require taking the set out of it's hole).  The 12VDC supply wire or the ground may have come loose or the something in the unit is broken.

If you have power at the plate, the next step is to turn off the power switch (avoiding a short) and climb up and disconnect the cable from the antenna.  Have someone turn the power and use your voltmeter to see if there is house battery voltage between the coax braid and the center conductor.  There is short protection in the system, but try to avoid shorting the cable as you do so.  Using a voltmeter works, but even better is a low draw (~1amp) light bulb with clip leads soldered to it.  The idea is draw some current so any resistive connections in the cable will show up. 

If there is power at the antenna and nothing still works, then most probably the antenna's amplifier has died.  However, after you have determined that there is voltage at the amplifier's terminals have someone turn the power back off and screw the cable back onto the amplifier while rotating the cable back and fourth about 1/4 turn.  Now try powering the antenna amplifier up again.  I had one case where the antenna didn't work and fixed it by just unscrewing and replacing the coax connector.  I know from other experience that F-connectors will, from time to time, slightly corrode and cause problems. 

If you are a plunger by heart, you might just first try loosening the F connector on the antenna amplifier about 1/2 turn and then swizzle it back and fourth about 1/4 turn several times to grind off any corrosion and then retighten it (this can be done with the power on).  That's what I would do, following my motto of always doing the cheap (i.e., in terms of effort or $) low risk experiments first.

Linley

Re: How do you check to see if there is a break in a TV Cable?
Reply #3
That is video is a good one!  It checks to make sure there is continuity of both the center conductor and braid plus you can install the clip leads at one end of an installed cable and measure at the other end. This approach would work even be better if one used 12 volts from the fuse panel and a light bulb with clip leads as an ohm meter.  That way any high resistance joint would show up.

There is also a possibility that Don's problem is something else.  One would get the same symptoms if the power to the amplifier in the antenna has been interrupted or if that amplifier died. 

Does the little light come on when you push the antenna switch on the TV outlet?  If so, then power is being supplied to the outlet plate.  If not, check your fuse panel (I don't remember which fuse).  If no fuses blown, pull the TV unit out of the wall and inspect it (this may require taking the set out of it's hole).  The 12VDC supply wire or the ground may have come loose or the something in the unit is broken.

If you have power at the plate, the next step is to turn off the power switch (avoiding a short) and climb up and disconnect the cable from the antenna.  Have someone turn the power and use your voltmeter to see if there is house battery voltage between the coax braid and the center conductor.  There is short protection in the system, but try to avoid shorting the cable as you do so.  Using a voltmeter works, but even better is a low draw (~1amp) light bulb with clip leads soldered to it.  The idea is draw some current so any resistive connections in the cable will show up. 

If there is power at the antenna and nothing still works, then most probably the antenna's amplifier has died.  However, after you have determined that there is voltage at the amplifier's terminals have someone turn the power back off and screw the cable back onto the amplifier while rotating the cable back and fourth about 1/4 turn.  Now try powering the antenna amplifier up again.  I had one case where the antenna didn't work and fixed it by just unscrewing and replacing the coax connector.  I know from other experience that F-connectors will, from time to time, slightly corrode and cause problems. 

If you are a plunger by heart, you might just first try loosening the F connector on the antenna amplifier about 1/2 turn and then swizzle it back and fourth about 1/4 turn several times to grind off any corrosion and then retighten it (this can be done with the power on).  That's what I would do, following my motto of always doing the cheap (i.e., in terms of effort or $) low risk experiments first.

Linley
Good to hear from you, Linley! Your helpful posts on solving battery and electrical problems are always welcome.
Chris
Formerly: 2002 30' IB

Re: How do you check to see if there is a break in a TV Cable?
Reply #4
Thanks Linley. Should have just written you direct, this is your forte.

Amp is on.

I MAY have found the problem. Where the cable goes into a "box" on the antenna ALMOST looks like there was an electrical fire there. I have not discovered how to open the "box" yet. The connector does NOT unscrew there. Once I can get inside the silly "box" I should be able to tell what's what.

If that does not pan out, I may have enough wire on board to make a loop up to the roof to see if there is a break in the cable.
Don & Dorothy
Sold our LD in June of 2023

Our boring always non-PC travel blog
Traveling Dorothy

Re: How do you check to see if there is a break in a TV Cable?
Reply #5
Don,

My problem last spring was a break in the antenna cable up on the roof at the bottom of the antenna mast. My test for finding it consisted of running a temporary cable from the back of the TV antenna amplifier panel out the door to the top of the antenna. The TV worked fine with that, so it was obvious the cable was the problem. I had fears that it would require having to run a new cable through the ceiling, but then I discovered a visible crack in the cable at the base of the antenna. I cut the cable there, put in a connector and a new wire from there to the head of the antenna. I put the connector inside a waterproof connector. It’s been fine since.


Re: How do you check to see if there is a break in a TV Cable?
Reply #6
Definitely there is a break in the center/copper wire in the cable. I made a loop from where the cable exits the amp to where the cable connects to the antenna. The shield is intact, but the center/copper wire is broken. I suspect it may be where it goes into the roof, if looks mean anything, it shabby there. But, I have no clue how to access it. There seems to be a connector there, but there is no access to the nut, if there is one. Looks like if I remove the screws from inside, the antenna might fall. To anyone that has removed the antenna, what happens when you remove the screws where the up/down handle lives?

Still on the road and trying to avoid creating a problem I can resolve.
Don & Dorothy
Sold our LD in June of 2023

Our boring always non-PC travel blog
Traveling Dorothy

Re: How do you check to see if there is a break in a TV Cable?
Reply #7
Looks like if I remove the screws from inside, the antenna might fall. To anyone that has removed the antenna, what happens when you remove the screws where the up/down handle lives?
The main body of the TV antenna is screwed to the roof from the top. You can remove all the interior pieces without a problem.
I have never totally replaced the cable, instead, I have been able to repair a bad section, as Ted did.
Don't know if a new cable can be pushed through without removing the main main body.

As an FYI to others, covering the exposed TV, CB and any other antenna cable, is a good idea.
It keeps the sunlight from slowly disintegrating the cable's rubber coating. Use a split plastic loom, made for this purpose.
UV Resistant High-Temp Split Loom - 3/8", Small Box
Gardner Bender 3/8 in. x 10 ft. Flexible Tubing-FLX-3810T - The Home Depot

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze

Re: How do you check to see if there is a break in a TV Cable?
Reply #8
You can see the antenna's manual at Winegard Company Antenna Support, Troubleshooting .

From the manual, it's difficult to see how it comes apart.  The last page has a parts list and a drawing plus some obscure directions hidden within the parts list.  My guess is that you remove the inside handle by backing out the set screw.  You then remove the elevation worm gear by removing the cap on the top of the external unit and screwing it out.  You then reach up the empty hole from the inside with a 15/16" twelve point socket (good luck finding that in a RV camp) to remove the nut that holds the rotating assembly to the base plate.  Cannot tell from the manual if it is just easier to take out the 10 mounting screws holding the entire thing to the roof and lift it off (after removing the inside handle of course).

There is a reference to the antenna wire fitting through a separate hole in the roof into the 'tween' space between the outside roof and the ceiling.  I have read other LDers say that one finds a two F-connectors with a barrel between them just under the ? (rotating part? base plate part?) of the antenna (their comments were not clear).  In any case that is how one should repair the situation; by cutting away the external, weathered and work hardened (by rotation) cable and then installing an F-connector on the end coming out of the roof and using a barrel to connect to a new short piece cable out to the antenna.  Wish you were nearby; I have just the stuff you need at hand.

Good luck

Linley

Re: How do you check to see if there is a break in a TV Cable?
Reply #9
Many thanks! This gives me a clue. I think I will postpone disassembly until we get home in a few weeks. I will try to post the results with pictures later. Again thanks.

PS, I have a 15/16's with me all the way to 1 1/4.
Don & Dorothy
Sold our LD in June of 2023

Our boring always non-PC travel blog
Traveling Dorothy

Re: How do you check to see if there is a break in a TV Cable?
Reply #10
Sorry, I missed this thread until now. A few months ago I started by replacing the 'batwing' Sensar head with a Jack antenna head. I replaced the cable; it needed it after 16 years in the sun. I couldn't get a reliable 12vdc at the head after screwing into the type 'F' connector just below the antenna base plate through the entrance hole. My only recourse was to cut a hole in the ceiling. (I showed it to you Larry at the Ventura caravan). I put a new wire RG-6u from the head and terminated  it. Then hooked up a 'barrel' connector to a new male end on the original RG-59u wire inside the ceiling near the handle. The new ceiling plate is held on with screws that can be removed to gain access to the splice. I hope these pictures help. RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB