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Topic: Borg tire stem source and part number? (Read 161 times) previous topic - next topic
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Borg tire stem source and part number?
Yahoo Message Number: 160057
I need to order a set of Borg tire stems for my 2007 Lazy Daze Midbath, which has a 2006 chassis. What vendor are you using for the Borg stems and which part number?

It looks like this is the official Borg site:

BORG Equipment & Supply Corp. Inc. - Automotive Equipment & Supplies



Thanks,

Jan Forseth

Jan Forseth
--
Jan Forseth
2007 27' Midbath named Footloose
Re: Borg tire stem source and part number?
Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 160067
Thank you, Joan. I think I'll go with the Borg kit. Is this the part you'd recommend? (DL1F)

Jan Forseth
--
Jan Forseth
2007 27' Midbath named Footloose
Re: Borg tire stem source and part number?
Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 160070
DL1F looks right, but if there is any question, I'd call to verify.

My memory may be faulty on this point (hardly the first time, but I know I can count on corroboration or contradiction from the group!), but I recall that my 2003 came with *rubber* valve stems; Chuck replaced the front stems with steel ones when he installed the long and U dual valves right after I picked the rig up. I don't know when Ford went to steel stems on the E450, but if the front stems on your 2005 are rubber, I suggest ordering steel replacements.

As ever, YMMV.

Joan
2003 TK has a new home
Re: Borg tire stem source and part number?
Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 160085
I'll give them a call, Joan, and ask about that DL1F part number. Thanks again.

Jan Forseth
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Jan Forseth
2007 27' Midbath named Footloose
Re: Borg tire stem source and part number?
Reply #5 –
Yahoo Message Number: 160141
I was in a Camping World store today; first time in ages. I was surprised to see that they now stock Dually Tire Valves. The kit for the Ford wheels had chrome stems and it included the rubber stabilizer grommets. Installation instructions were on the back of the package.

The price, around $71, seemed considerably less than the other online sources. Sadly it was "made in China". I have no idea if the Borg or Tireman dually kits are from China. Just thought some of you might be interested.

Steve K.
Steve K

2003 Mid-bath
Re: Borg tire stems and wheel painting
Reply #6 –
Yahoo Message Number: 160160

Good tip! I just ordered a set of the Borg stems from Camping World... although in truth I need only one. There's a story behind that.

I was recently horrified to discover that one of my inner rear dually stems (from the Tireman) was almost completely sawn through by contact with the edge of the simulator hole.(You can find a photo in the album "Wheel simulators begone!") I should have nipped this in the bud when I had new tires put on last year, but either the stem somehow shifted or I just plain missed it. I was within a whisker of losing all the air in that tire. Scary. That's why I need a new stem.

I had never liked the wheel simulators. Aside from the fact that the shiny chrome looks cheesy in my eyes, they are a hassle in various ways. You have to take them off when having tires worked on, lest the shop bung them up. You have to keep the lug extenders that hold them in place well tightened--and they barely grip two or three threads of the lug!--lest you lose a simulator. (Happened to me once, and they aren't cheap to replace.) The threads of the lug extenders can become stripped, making it impossible to keep them tight. (That happened to me as well.)

This latest incident, where the simulator nearly cut through my valve stem, was the last straw. I resolved to stop using the simulators. Instead, I painted my wheels.

I sprayed three coats each of VHT high temperature wheel paint (Ford Argent Silver) and VHT clear wheel paint on the wheels, and applied the same treatment to the rear axle hub using VHT satin black wheel paint plus clear overcoats. One can each of the three paints was enough to do all four wheels and two hubs. The paint dries quickly ten (minutes between coats), so one can easily do two or more wheels in an afternoon.

To paint, I pulled off each wheel, working one at a time. I used a hydraulic bottle jack, but the Ford jack would have worked fine. When jacking up the front, I used jack stands for added safety. For the rear, I jacked up the axle but did not use jack stands, as I was only removing the outer wheel on each side. I figured that even if the jack failed, the rig would simply settle a couple of inches onto the inner wheel.

Having removed a wheel, I masked the tire with sheets of aluminum foil and masking tape, and sprayed. (By the way, an easy way to protect the valve stem from paint is to take a large plastic soda straw, cut off two or three inches, heat one end and pinch it flat with pliers. It slips on and off nicely.)

As mentioned, I also painted the rear axle hub black. I did that in place, after removing the outer dually wheel. The complicated rear hub shape and (especially) the close-set studs made masking the inner dually a tricky task requiring lots of small strips of tape. Now, since the inner wheel doesn't really show, I could probably have skipped masking. It wouldn't matter that much if the wheel were partially black, as long as I kept paint off the studs and the valve stem. But somehow that seemed tacky, so I went the extra mile.

Ironically, the hardest part of the whole job was removing the lug nuts, which should have been routine. They are supposed to be tightened to 140 foot-pounds, and I have the torque wrench to ensure that. I can tighten or loosen 140 ft.-lb. with one arm. But the last shop that worked on this rig (Done Right Auto in Lake Havasu City) over-torqued the lug nuts to an insane degree. Literally standing on the end of a two-foot breaker bar, I was only barely able to loosen them. It took about twenty minutes of sweating and cursing to get each wheel off. If I'd had to change a tire by the side of the road, it would not have been pleasant!

So there you have it, for what it's worth. A couple of days work and maybe thirty bucks worth of materials (including the foil and tape). No more bothersome simulators and as a bonus, I now have no fear of changing my own tires. (Except maybe the inner dually.) It remains to be seen how well the paint will hold up with time and travel, but with six coats on each wheel, Im optimistic. At worst, I could just put the simulators back on.

You can see photos of the painted wheels in the abovementioned album, "Wheel simulators begone!"

Andy
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"
Re: Borg tire stems and wheel painting
Reply #7 –
Yahoo Message Number: 160166
In order to prevent the contact with the simulators you're talking about, I put a small tab of double stick tape between the stem and the simulator. The tape acts as a pad to keep them separated.
What I'm guessing happens, is that centrifugal force at highway speeds bends the stems just enough that, unless well centered, contact is made.
Ed
Re: Borg tire stem source and part number?
Reply #8 –
Yahoo Message Number: 160179
Andy, I saw your pictures. The wheels look good. I have long thought about removing the wheel simulators just because of the hassle and the unsprung weight. I never have made the change because unsprung weight is not the issue with a RV as compared to a sports car, but the real reason was the dread of cleaning and painting the wheels.
That has changed. While parked at home some kid tried to pry off the front right wheel simulator. It is bent up rather bad from a lug wrench. I guess - I never saw the perp - they thought it was just a hubcap and would look nice on their pickup. It is bent and out of round enough that I am afraid to leave it on.
Currently: 2008 36' Tiffin Open Road
Previously: 2007 Mid Bath
Re: Borg tire stems and wheel painting
Reply #9 –
Yahoo Message Number: 160186
I put a small tab of double stick tape between the stem and the simulator. The tape acts as a pad to keep them separated.

---- The Kii ("Kaper 2") 8-hole rear wheel covers on my 2003 required cut-outs on the holes that the long inner dual valve comes through; without elongating the holes for clearance, the inner dual's valve was not accessible, and the wheel cover would have sawn through the end of the valve very quickly. (See Andy's photo of same.)

If a person has the long and U-shaped valves and wants to keep the wheel covers for cosmetic reasons (and/or doesn't want to paint the wheels or leave them naked), one might consider enlarging the inner dual valve "outlet" hole on the wheel cover.

As ever, YMMV.

Joan
2003 TK has a new home
Re: Borg tire stems and wheel painting
Reply #10 –
Yahoo Message Number: 160190
Ford changed the wheel style in 2008, as I recall. The newer wheel has four large oval holes that provide lots of clearance for the stems.
On my newer TK, no surgery was required; just a bit of tape.
I tried slipping a piece of clear vinyl tube I had left over from another project over the long valve stem. That worked as a seperator as well, but the tape was simpler so I went that way.
Ed
 
Re: Borg tire stem source and part number?
Reply #11 –
Quote from: Andy Baird  - 
Yahoo Message Number: 160160
Good tip! I just ordered a set of the Borg stems from Camping World... although in truth I need only one. There's a story behind that.

I was recently horrified to discover that one of my inner rear dually stems (from the Tireman) was almost completely sawn through by contact with the edge of the simulator hole.(You can find a photo in the album "Wheel simulators begone!") I should have nipped this in the bud when I had new tires put on last year, but either the stem somehow shifted or I just plain missed it. I was within a whisker of losing all the air in that tire. Scary. That's why I need a new stem.

Andy

On another note. In the course of having our tires replaced in the last couple of days we also learned that our Borg inner dually tire stem had worn just as Andy's did. The shop wanted to replace them with braided extensions and I needed them the next day. I called Borg, which is where I bought them originally in 2009, and told them what had happened and that I needed two new stems. They informed me that they were covered by a lifetime warranty and sent two new stems at no charge other than shipping.

Jim
Re: Borg tire stem source and part number?
Reply #12 –
Quote from: Jim & Gayle  - 
They informed me that they were covered by a lifetime warranty and sent two new stems at no charge other than shipping.
'

That's great news, Jim! By the way, I ended up buying my Borg stems from Camping World for $71.99 (as Steve mentioned above). I see that they're on sale once again for that price as of today:

http://tinyurl.com/zcgj98b

Part number is 84723.

Hope this will help others who may be in need of the stems.
--
Jan Forseth
2007 27' Midbath named Footloose
Re: Borg tire stem source and part number?
Reply #13 –
Jan, the CW ad states that the valves are for 1992-2006 "class C" rigs; I don't know if it makes a difference, but didn't the wheels change configuration, i.e., from the 8-hole wheel to "another pattern", for the 2007 models? Just asking...
2003 TK has a new home
Re: Borg tire stem source and part number?
Reply #14 –
Jan

Check Tireman's site, it shows photos of the different styles of wheel.
There are different wheel configurations and the extenders must match.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Borg tire stem source and part number?
Reply #15 –
Quote from: JCT  - 
Jan, the CW ad states that the valves are for 1992-2006 "class C" rigs; I don't know if it makes a difference, but didn't the wheels change configuration, i.e., from the 8-hole wheel to "another pattern", for the 2007 models? Just asking...

I checked with the Borg person and he said these would work. I'll be having them installed after I reach my home base in a couple weeks, and will let you know if they do work OK. Thanks for the heads-up.
--
Jan Forseth
2007 27' Midbath named Footloose