Re: 100 Watt portable solar power Reply #25 – February 02, 2014, 02:10:08 am Yahoo Message Number: 144832"Is 100W enough to boil the kettle?"Not by a factor of ten, even at maximum solar-panel output (high noon on June 21st under clear southwestern skies). You'd need about a thousand watts to run an electric kettle or coffeemaker. Propane is much more appropriate for most of our water-heating needs.To add to the sources Joan mentioned, you might want to read the explanation of solar-power basics on my Eureka website.Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels
Re: 100 Watt portable solar power Reply #26 – February 02, 2014, 08:57:42 am Yahoo Message Number: 144835Yes, Andy's 'pages' are great reads, and I should have mentioned them as resources; I have no idea why I didn't (except that sometimes the obvious escapes my notice!). The information is well-organized, the concepts are clearly and simply presented, and the diagrams are very helpful!http://www.andybaird.com/Eureka/pages/toc.htmJoan
Re: 100 Watt portable solar power Reply #27 – February 02, 2014, 10:42:34 am Yahoo Message Number: 144836Thank you all so much. We have a plan to keep spending down on our old lady until we have camped a year. It is interesting to see what it's out there and how it might work for us. We have a lot of learning to do. Sandy
Grease fittings on front 'Ball Joints' Reply #28 – February 05, 2014, 05:53:40 pm Yahoo Message Number: 144901I want to thank those that brought up the subject of front axle grease fittings. It reminded me to check the front ball joints on my 2010 RB that now has 56K+ miles on the odometer. The plug for the zerk fitting socket is only on the lower ball joint and none on the upper joint. I installed the zerk fitting on both lower joints and replaced a straight zerk fitting on the central steering rod with a 90 degree fitting to make it easier access than before. A little shot of grease at each location (three on the steering rod joints) and all is well at the front end. About a 15-minute job. MikeQuoteegarding the "sealed" ball joints, Ford has historically delivered the E450 chassis with threaded plugs installed on the upper and lower ball joints. These could be easily removed and grease fittings known as "Zerks" could be threaded in to replace those plugs.Steve K.
Re: Grease fittings on front 'Ball Joints' Reply #29 – February 06, 2014, 10:06:06 am Yahoo Message Number: 144908Hi,Thank fall all the great information on this web site The last time my 27 ft. 2002 MB went in for maintenance, Zerk fittings were installed on the upper and lower ball joints. How frequently should I add grease?Thanks in advance.David
Re: Grease fittings on front 'Ball Joints' Reply #30 – February 06, 2014, 10:48:05 am Yahoo Message Number: 144910"How frequently should I add grease?"DavidWhen changing our LD's oil (every 5000 miles running Mobil 1 ), the ball joints get two small pumps of the grease gun each, you don't want to overdo it and blow out the seals. Also lube the other grease fittings at every oil change. A little bit is all it takes, more is not better.FYI- the lower ball joint is the one that carries the weight of the MH and takes the greatest brunt when running down the road.. The upper ball joint is used to position the wheel and carries little or no weight, instead is exposed to large lateral loads. Both ball joints rotate, allowing the steering knuckle to turn. With regular lubing, ball joints should last a 100,000 miles or more.Larry
Re: 31 IB vs 27MB Reply #31 – February 06, 2014, 11:12:32 am Yahoo Message Number: 144911Larry, I noticed in a post from Don McG back several years ago he mentioned taking the load off the wheel you were greasing beforehand. Is that necessary?Jim C
Re: 31 IB vs 27MB Reply #32 – February 06, 2014, 02:21:50 pm Yahoo Message Number: 144913"Larry, I noticed in a post from Don McG back several years ago he mentioned taking the load off the wheel you were greasing beforehand. Is that necessary?"Jim CIt's useful (and the recommended way in most textbooks) but not necessary. While changing the oil, I usually jack the front end up to check for slop in the wheel bearings, tie-rod ends and ball joints. This takes the weight off the lower ball joint, opening up its slight clearances for grease to penetrate. Lubing the ball joint, while the MH is still on the ground, loads the reservoir with grease, so it will get in where it needs to be eventually. Either way, lubing needs to be done to prolong the life of the front end components. Just don't over do it.While you are at it, make sure to check the parking brake reservoir, if you have a 4L100 transmission. It's hidden and is a $2000+ repair if it runs out of oil. http://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157627503762313/Larry
Topic: 31 IB vs 27MB (Read 70 times)
previous topic - next topic
Topic: 31 IB vs 27MB (Read 70 times)
previous topic - next topic