Years ago, while reading about Andy’s adventures, I knew one of the first things I’d add to my TK was a pantry like Gertie’s (https://www.andybaird.com/travels/gertie/pantry.htm).
At the time I assumed I’d still have a house and/or workshop to craft one, fast forward to 2022, I had neither, so my TK was my workshop. Started with Andy’s plans, with a couple deviations.
I bought everything in Andy’s materials list, opting for a finished 3/4” maple plywood because Home Depot had some, and quickly built the frame, and drilled the peg holes using a jig I bought. And then I was stuck at that point wondering how I was going to mount it using the aluminum angle pieces.
Thankfully Liam dropped by Rainer NP that evening, and he suggested ditching the angle mounts, which didn’t have much to grab onto, and attach the frame going right and left in the alcove where there was plenty of stud wood. Unstuck, I attached the door to the frame and encountered another issue, 7/8” on the right wasn’t enough clearance to avoid rubbing against the bathroom door jam.
Sure, I could cut an inch off the frame, but then I’d have to take the door back to Home Depot to get it cut as I didn’t have a circular saw, but did have a compact router. A 1/2” round over bit gave me more clearance, not perfect, but good enough. Left Rainer for Olympic, buying a few more building supplies on the way, returning the unused aluminum.
While I had the router out, decided to cut notches into the shelves to keep them from falling off the shelf clips or rattling. This worked extremely well, the adjustable shelves are almost like they were screwed in. Anxious to see how they hold up on the road. Didn’t have access to wire hangers, but did buy 36” brass rods, 1/8th inch, which worked well, cut in half. Still need a couple more of those.
Used some very VERY strong magnets to keep the door closed, thought I would need four, but it turns out with three I have to pull extremely hard to open, so I kept it at two, with a third to be engaged when traveling.
Still have filling, sanding, veneer, and applying a finish to the raw wood, but it’s functional at this point. Might be weeks until all the sawdust is removed.
Thank you to Andy for the inspiration and Liam for the timely advice!
Really nice work! And without a shop. Hat's of to you, pal!
jor
Looks Awesome! There was no need for a door from the LD Mothership.
Very nice work, Dave!
Good work Dave, looks great!
- John
Great job! Are you available to work on a commission basis? ;D
Great job! Are you available to work on a commission basis? ;D
Sure, but plenty of flaws in my work, not sure I would refer myself 🤣
Nice job.
Over the years ask the powers to be at the factory why they never added this feature. Seems like a no-brainer. For less than $100 in material and labor, they could have sold this 'accessory' for $500. As you can see I had no pull. <smile>
glen
Nice job.
Over the years ask the powers to be at the factory why they never added this feature. Seems like a no-brainer. For less than $100 in material and labor, they could have sold this 'accessory' for $500. As you can see I had no pull. <smile>
Thanks!
I would have paid $1000 to have it built by the factory, but this will do.
Reduced the magnets to just two, still too strong to open easily by the door handle.
Where did you get the magnets? Sounds interesting.
I love that Kreg jig! Wish I'd had one when I built mine, many years ago.
By the way, I didn't invent the pantry cabinet. I first saw one in a 1989 Twin/King owned by friends of mine. They said it had been built for the previous owners by a moonlighting Lazy Daze employee--I don't know his name. I just took that idea, made a few improvements (adjustable shelves), and documented the results (http://www.andybaird.com/travels/gertie/pantry.htm).
I agree with Dave that the factory was foolish not to add that cabinet. But it was probably one of Ed's "You don't need that!" moments.
Where did you get the magnets? Sounds interesting.
Bought these in May with the thought they would come in handy as I customized.
Neodymium Rectangular Pot Magnets-66 lbs (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T4NX3NC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
I used some heavy duty double sided tape on one magnet for the stock medicine cabinet, as the Velcro wasn’t strong enough to keep it shut. Door has never opened since.
Thought I would need four for the pantry door, but after attaching three, couldn’t open the door without considerable effort.
The 3/4” plywood I bought had warp I didn’t notice, so the top of the door required me to push to engage it, which I used to my advantage, engaging the top magnet only when driving. But after a week of the top being engaged, the warp was gone, forcing me to remove that top magnet. Two is plenty for the pantry, still hard to open. Was going to install a latch, but I need to see the magnets fail first.
Resurrecting this post. My turn to build a pantry. Any other pointers I should know. I love these plans and the ongoing conversation building over the years!
I found some nice 1/2" Oak plywood for $15 (a lot less expensive than Home Depot). Looks like you guys are using 3/8". Any harm in a little thicker / heavier for a cost savings?
Dave - can you tell me the ideal width measurement to accommodate the door swing - you think an 1" less than Andy's plan is enough?
Can you explain or send pics of how you attached it directly to the studs without the angle mount?
Thank you!!
Resurrecting this post. My turn to build a pantry. Any other pointers I should know.
I found some nice 1/2" Oak plywood for $15. Looks like you guys are using 3/8". Any harm in a little thicker / heavier for a cost savings?
1/2" ply will work fine for a pantry., it would be the thinnest I would use. Instead of oak, I would try to find a veneer plywood that is the same wood type as the original woodwork, either cherry or maple. Oak isn't going to be easy to stain to match the OEM cabinetry.
I used 3//4 hardwood or hardwood veneer plywood when building them, along with Factory doors, stained to make the new pantry look like it came from the Mothership. Doors can be custom-ordered from online vendors min various woods, stains, and designs if a Factory look is desired.
A Kreg pocket screw jig was used on all of them and it produces very secure joints. It's a highly recommended tool and fun to use.
The Kreg jig needs boards 1/2" thick or greater.'
Building the frame is much easier when done outside or in the shop. Make sure the frame is short enough to pass through the entry door and be maneuverable around the roof vents and lights.
Mid-bath pantry-Maple | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/albums/72157666569259434/)
Larry
Awesome! Thanks for the additional input.
Can you tell me if the cabinet frame rests directly on the floor or did you raise it a little bit and its only supported by the angle mounts?
I found some nice 1/2" Oak plywood for $15 (a lot less expensive than Home Depot). Looks like you guys are using 3/8". Any harm in a little thicker / heavier for a cost savings?
Dave - can you tell me the ideal width measurement to accommodate the door swing - you think an 1" less than Andy's plan is enough?
Can you explain or send pics of how you attached it directly to the studs without the angle mount?
My build used 3/4” maple plywood with a finished surface for the door, so 1/2” definitely isn’t a problem, was my plan to use 1/2”.
The one inch for the door swing should have been fine had I not changed the door thickness from 1/2” to 3/4” while purchasing materials, as I neglected to adjust my frame/door measurements to accommodate the extra 1/4”. The spacer 1x2 being 7/8” rather than a full inch didn’t help either. My plan was for a 1/2” thick door with a 1” spacer giving me a 1/2” for swing, but reality ended up being 3/4” thick door and a 7/8” spacer, leaving me with a 1/8” swing, way way too little, thankfully using 1/2” round over router bit to made it workable.
As to directly using the Laze Daze studs, credit goes to Liam, he stopped by when I had the frame built and was stuck on how to attach the angle mounts as I was concerned about finding something for the screws to grab onto on the back of the pantry (the bathroom wall). We examined the sides of the pantry alcove and there appeared to be substantial studs on both sides, Liam suggested just sinking screws into those studs on the sides, and forget about attaching to the bathroom wall. Much simpler. Returned the angle mounts back unused.
You can see the 1”x2” spacer on the right. The pantry frame was screwed in through the spacer on one side, and into the kitchen stud on the other. Despite my fancy clamps, the frame wasn’t perfectly square, nor was the Lazy Daze alcove, so I used some shims to tighten it up.
The pantry has held up extremely well, no failures in 20,000 miles with lots of rough roads to/from Alaska, the shelves don’t rattle or move. Door requires substantial force to open with just two magnets securing it.
Keep in mind this was built for a 2017 TK, have no idea if the above works for other models or years.
Can you tell me if the cabinet frame rests directly on the floor or did you raise it a little bit and its only supported by the angle mounts?
In my build for a TK (no angle mounts), the frame is 1” above the floor.
Used a scrap piece of wood while I secured the frame to either side, then removed it.
Can you tell me if the cabinet frame rests directly on the floor or did you raise it a little bit and it's only supported by the angle mounts?
To reduce the stress on the wall, the pantry's weight sits on the floor, the photo shows the aluminum angles used to secure the pantry to the wall. Two more pieces of angle are used in the bottom of the pantry. Once installed, the pantry is solid.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7364/27091946190_4d8ab818ec_4k.jpg)
Larry
Two observations on Larry’s very nice job matching the existing interior:
1) His pantry is installed in a MB, in a location that doesn’t have studs to the left AND right of the pantry frame. Angle mounts are required because the studs he secured to are behind the pantry.
2) His door swings to the rear, which makes sense for a MB, the pantry goods are easily accessible to the kitchen. My pantry door swings to the front, same reason, ease of access from the kitchen, with the bonus if I left it open, acceleration would push the door closed.
I agree with Larry, oak will look too different from the maple, you’ll never match the existing interior. Did my entire project on the road, so my use of a lighter finished maple plywood simplified things but meant no stain matching. Thought it would bug me and I’d have to redo the door, but I’ve grown to like the different shades of maple and helps guests with door confusion between the pantry and bathroom.
Thanks again for the input. Really helps not re-invent the wheel and learn from what you have done.
My LD is in storage about 2 hours north of my home. I was hoping to build and finish the pantry box at home and then bring it to the storage unit to do the actual install. Seeing your pics Dave - looks like you attached the pantry uprights to the coach and worked in step-wise fashion to complete the install. With the slight variations of the alcove not being perfectly square - and the pantry not being square, maybe its best to do it on site like you did to make the needed modifications instead of creating the whole box that might not fit exactly.
I am sure to have more questions once we are underway with this project. Unfortunately with work, weather, distance, and other commitments - it will probably take us a few months to get it done. But - we will get it done. :D
I live in a condo, so even if I did have the TK at home, I still didn’t have a workshop to do it in.
It’s really constricted to build it inside the TK, but yeah, at least you don’t have to worry about getting the built pantry through the door and I could dry fit and measure when ever I needed too.
Good luck, if you’re still working on it in late April/early May, I’ll be in the suburbs north of Chicago.
Thanks again LD family for all your suggestions to help this pantry build come to fruition!
Here is my synopsis:
I removed the accordion door but left the ceiling track. Found these track hangers for the curtain: Amazon.com: 100 Pieces Shower Curtain Pack of 50 Pieces Hooks and 50 Pieces... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BDLB31VW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
We purchased 1 x 6 hardwood boards at Menards. I think they were Oak but not positive: https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/lumber-boards/boards/mastercraft-reg-1-x-6-red-oak-board/1042986/p-1444422741410-c-13115.htm
Ended up using three of the 1 x 6 x 8 boards. Attached the uprights directly to the wall by the kitchen and the bathroom (its not quite square but pretty close). The shelves are cut fit lengthwise and didn't need any modification for depth of the shelf.
We left a 1" space at the top and bottom - and connected the uprights only to the studs on either side.
The Kreg jig is worth its weight in gold to line up the shelving holes - we modified it a bit to make consistent holes for the retention rods: Kreg KMA3225 Shelf-Pin Jig 1/4" (6 mm) - Shelf Pin Drilling Jig - Create... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09V8BN6W9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
The pantry doors and hardware are from a cabinet from Habitat for Humanity. (score!!).
The shelf pegs are cushioned and secured with adhesive putty (see pic) - I thought this was easier than screwing them to the little supports - Amazon.com: POWERTEC QP1404V 1/4 Inch Shelf Pegs 50pk, L-Shaped Bracket with... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B7X4KXD7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1)
I hope the links, explanations and pictures help someone else when they make the next pantry.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Thanks LD fam!
For some reason it didnt post this one last pic.
I was a little worried about the 1x6 making the hallway too narrow but its quite fine to move about.
Nicely done!
Was too afraid to use 6” boards, feared it would stick out too much, tempting to redo with 6”, after all have all the jigs still.
Like the addition of turnbuckles vs the brass rods I used, will keep that in mind if I have issues with the rods,
Was considering putty to keep the pegs in for the shelves, but routing the shelf bottoms, making channels for the pegs held them so securely, haven’t needed putty.
What are you securing the door shut with?
Arriving in Chicagoland on Tuesday for a few days.
That's a really nice job! I especially like the use of threaded rod + turnbuckles + clear tubing as retainers. That's much stronger than the coat hanger wire I used, while still letting you relocate the retainers if you should choose to move shelves up or down.
I wish I had known about that Kreg shelf-pin jig when I built my cabinet back in 2003 or thereabouts. Kreg makes great stuff, and that jig would have made a tedious job easy. Thanks for the tip!
a few days.
Dave -
The closures are harvested from the Habitat for Humanity cabinet as well but essentially are these - see attached picture. They are quite secure and no accidental openings on our way to Kentucky from Wisconsin. There is enough of a lip on the edge of the cabinet to pull it open so I haven't installed any door pulls yet - contemplating leaving it this way or installing the simple low profile pulls I've already purchased. To be determined after a bit of use. I also have some strong magnets suggested prior in the thread on standby in case we need them.
Have fun in Chicago!
Andy - Yes!! the "threaded rod + turnbuckles + clear tubing as retainers" was all my Dad's genius - you should have seen the confusion on my face as he was trying to explain the concept without a visual aid. LOL! I didn't even know what a turnbuckle was! I also like that I can space the retainer higher / lower to accommodate different height items.
Also, want to note - no squeaks or rattles coming from this addition. So thankful for that - any extra noises drive me crazy.
Final picture is my Dad - hard at work - always willing to entertain my next crazy idea. Love him!
I wish I had known about that Kreg shelf-pin jig when I built my cabinet back in 2003 or thereabouts. Kreg makes great stuff, and that jig would have made a tedious job easy. Thanks for the tip!
When I built the bunk cabinet assembly for Don Malpas, using Factory matching doors and drawers, the framework was complicated and needed building in modular pieces as the whole frame would not fit through the coach door.
The Kreg jig allowed building the cabinet completely in the garage, on stands, and then taking it apart for final assembly in the LD. Kreg makes very useful tools.
This was my most involved cabinetry project in a Lasy Daze. Wish I had taken photos of the interior.
Bunk cabinet | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157624900349825/with/5020281513/)
Kreg Pocket-Hole Jigs | KregTool.com Official Store (https://www.kregtool.com/shop/pocket-hole-joinery/pocket-hole-jigs/)
How to select the correct pocket-hole screw | Kreg Tool (https://learn.kregtool.com/learn/how-to-select-right-pocket-hole-screw/)
Larry