Hi gang.
Got an issues with rust bubbles appearing on the rear exterior wall on my 2002 31' LD.
During a more detailed inspection after purchase I noticed the rear window had been broken and repaired with a tinted sheet of Lexan plastic. This was not acceptable. I ordered a new window with frame from the mother ship. It was installed by Camping World. I asked the installer if he detected water damage. He said no. The new window was vacuum sealed. Attached are photos showing rust bubbles. A body shop inspected the problem and said they could repair.
What are your thoughts and suggestions?
Many thanks!
Mark
Looks like electrolysis which means you do indeed have moisture on the inside. There are many more knowledgeable forum members than me that can advise on repairs. But in my opinion, job one would be to ensure your roof is sealed. Eterna Bond tape is the DIY way to go. Check the Companion website for great tutorials on how to make that fix.
Rick has it right, it looks like electrolysis, caused usually by water leaks. Poor prep before painting could cause problems but they would have shown up years ago. Our 1983 LD had two spots that looked the same but were caused by the aluminum skin contacting staples, not the obvious choice here .
The paint can be sanded down and then prep aluminum with an etching primer, next the surface is cleaned again and the new paint is applied.
Larry
Hi Mark; Water is getting in at the top, maybe as high as the roof, more likely just above the window. (I've had issues with my local CW. Individual stores and workers are of course different.) Water behind the aluminum, between the wood backing and aluminum causes the corrosion. The aluminum turns to a crumbly chalky white powder, a 'salt' of aluminum oxide and swells the paint. You might as well cut those bubbles of paint out. Your first picture of the ladder support has a missing screw. Just that size hole could let in a lot of water. That the previous owner put in a plastic panel could be a sign that there were problems in that area. Taking out a screw here and there can tell you if the water issue is widespread. The screw threads will be rusty, or may not be tight in sound wood. Squirt some sealant into each hole before replacing the screws you've taken out.
You didn't say if those bubbles showed up after the window was replaced. It is common RV practice to just use a double sided butyl rubber (gray goo) tape, screw in the screws and clean away what oozes out with a solvent. That will work for about 10 years. If indeed the CW people didn't see any water staining on the window frame, then that water could be coming from the roof area. I would expect corner 'end rot' below, near the bumper, if the water is entering near the roof. Larry K. is having that issue now with his 2001.
Keep us apprised with how your inspection/repairs go. RonB
Hi Ron-
The bubbles were present before installing the new window. That's actually what brought my attention to the window.
Do you think the water is between the paint and aluminum?
Mark
Hi Mark; I do think the water is between the wood backing and the inside of the aluminum. The back of the aluminum isn't protected as far as I know. Just residual glue. I haven't torn anything apart on my LD. The water eats through the back of the aluminum where it puddles. My previous (not LD) motorhome had some spots before I sealed its roof. On those spots I chipped the aluminum out to bare aluminum and into the wood a little. I used Bondo to fix it and painted it. The key is to prevent more water intrusion. It will just eat out other spots. RonB
Thanks Ron!
I called the mother ship. They told me the same thing.
Well I know what I'll be doing this spring when the weather warms.
Mark
Somebody at the LD group this month mentioned that their previous Lazy Daze had an issue with what looked like bubbles in the aluminum, and was told by an RV tech that the cause was electrolysis due to a defective 110/12v converter unit leaking to ground.
Replacing the converter resolved multiple electrical issues, whether or not it actually caused the electrolysis would be difficult to confirm but is an interesting theory.
Steve
Hi Steve TK; Lets see..... how to put that that theory to rest delicately...Utter nonsense!!! RonB
After a second inspection I think my water issues are coming from the end caps. The roof has a good seal.
For a temporary fix, can I caulk the caps and wait until warmer weather? Could this trap moisture under the caps and cause more issues? Should I remove the bubbles, treat and prime?
Thanks!
Mark
Hi Mark; The end caps are ABS plastic, and there shouldn't be any bubbles, except paint peeling off. There shouldn't be that either. The bubbles are due to water behind the aluminum, causing electrolysis. That dissolves the aluminum and comes through the back of the paint layer. Anything to stop the water penetration even 'stop gap' measures is good. If the roof seals are good, in your year range, the tops of the windows need to be inspected and resealed. This can let water in, which pools in the lower framing below the windows.
I know that I've had water intrusion into my end caps at the bottom, where it was essentially open at the rear bumper. I have sprayed sealer, paint and some under coating on the wood piece at the base of the bumper. That needs recoating every few years because of sand blasting from tires and street sand, gravel, etc. as the vehicle is being driven. RonB
Hi Ron-
Thanks for replying to my question.
When I purchased my LD. I had to replace the rear window. Obviously the window at some point was replaced
had been broken and replaced with Lexan plexiglass. I purchased a new frame with glass from the mothership.
I had the new window installed by Camping World. How would you repair the bubbles. I may be able to make the repair but I don't have the experience or time to tear out and replace the aluminum.
Thanks
Hi Mark. Pictures of the issues would help me or others recommend any course of action. RonB
Hi Ron.
I included photos with my original post. I'll post them again
Photos
window
Sorry Mark I didn't go back that far, but I see the pictures now. Definitely water getting into the back wall. It looks terrible around the top of the window. Something as simple as a missing screw on the ladder support can let water in. I personally don't let Camping World work on my LD. They are generally clueless about Lazy Daze construction. The one time I had them work on my first motorhome (not an LD), they ignored me when I gave them special instructions to drill a pilot hole for my A/C install. I put in OAK, western red in the ceiling, and the tech expected pine. So he used a self drilling screw in the exact location and broke off his screw. He left it there, because it broke under the surface of the wood. Then he couldn't get three wires in romex (black white and bare copper ground) connected right. Hot lead where the neutral went. Good thing I checked it. I knew there was trouble when they put the A/C unit on the fork lift, got it half way up and dropped it on the concrete floor upside down. At my insistence (I walked out onto the floor area) they got me a different A/C unit, but they put the other one back in stock. I'm sure they didn't make a note on that unit that it had been dropped! Of course the manager and employees are different at each store, but I have a long memory about 'stupid' employees.
My first mh (non LD) had rot around the back window. I took it out and found that it had been installed upside down. The weep holes at the top let water in. No weep holes at the bottom kept it in. And termites also! Another story.... RonB
I didn't have much of a choice who installed the window. I lived in Northern Minnesota. Driving to California was out of the question. Auto windows companies were clueless. Now, how would you address and repair the problem.
Thanks!
Mark
FYI- My insurance is combining out next week to inspect. I have full coverage, but I'm anxious they may try to get out of covering the damage.
Mark
Question:
Can I sand and treat the rust areas with a product designed to halt the rust from expanding?
Before I would treat the rust areas I would try to locate the source of the water leak.
Thanks!
Hi Mark; Rust is iron oxide. Only iron and steel rust. If you stop the water, the aluminum will stop corroding. Also an oxidizing event, that air gets everywhere. The white crumbly material is aluminum oxide. It won't spread if you keep it dry. Generally cut it back to sound aluminum. I'd rough up the wood underneath and put Bondo in the hole. Sand it down and paint it. The aluminum moves around on the surface, expanding and contracting with temperature, so a fixed hole may not stay fixed. If it is a large enough hole, get a piece of thin bare aluminum and slide it in behind the hole and Bondo to that. It may shift with the sheet and stay looking fixed. Larry and others may have more experience with this type of repair. My only experience was with a 'quarter' sized hole on my old (non LD) motothome. RonB
Something like this. Hope you took 'shop' classes in high school. Order Aluminum Sample Pack 6061-Sheet Online (https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/aluminum/aluminum-sample-pack-6061-sheet/pid/7572?variant=7572-1&gclid=CjwKCAiAx8KQBhAGEiwAD3EiPwWBPmy76boLiv66OFz2yVUNJZwXmGQB-j-IBwWQ_cyjAM8OclWI-RoCvv8QAvD_BwE)
Thanks Ron!
I was just looking for a temporary fix until warmer weather allows me to tackle the damage.
I'm not an auto body guy so I may have a pro make the repairs.
Thanks!
Mark
Hi Mark. I don't know what your expertise level is. Don't use any silicone sealer. Dap acrylic will seal for now, and be easy to remove. Eternabond is hard to work with, hard to remove, and meant for permanent repairs. Don't use that either. Same with 3M 4200, 5200 sealant. White duct tape applied carefully over the bubbles. It will make it worse if it traps more water in the wall, but if dry can protect it temporarily.
The fact that you had a plastic back window was a bad sign to start with. Auto body repair people also aren't the best. They work with cars, and your motorhome isn't a car. No steel, and wood isn't what they are used to fixing. Lazy Dazes are peculiar, almost one of a kind anymore. OK Thor and others do use wood framing, but not the same way as LD. You need to find an RV repair facility, that can fix water, roof leak and other location leaks. You'll have time to investigate potential repair locations in the next month or so. RonB
Many thanks Ron!
Mark
I would open each bubble and clean away any of the white oxides, lightly scraping it down to the bare metal. A dental tool works well. Make sure the holes do not fully penetrate the aluminum skin. Look for red oxides or rust, a sign there is contact with a ferrous metal behind the sheet aluminum.
Bare aluminum needs to be etched for good bonding. Vinegar works fine, it isn't fast so let it sit a while before cleaning with fresh water. Next is the paint.
You are lucky to have all the bubbles in areas painted white. Your rig and most other LDs are painted Oxford White, from Ford.
Oxford White is widely available in touch-up bottles or spray cans.
The touch-up bottles should work best, allowing you to build up layers.
Larry
Many Thanks Larry!!
I'll give this a try. I pray the damage is not as bad as it appears. Would you hand sand or use a palm sander?
Mark
I'll give this a try. I pray the damage is not as bad as it appears. Would you hand sand or use a palm sander?
Neither, I wouldn't touch the surrounding paint, instead, I would work strictly on the bubbles. The surrounding paint doesn't have a problem, fix the bubbles first, along with resealing the window and any other sources of leakage. If you want to spray paint the areas, plan on doing it later.
Larry
Thanks Larry!
Mark
NADAZE
I am not sure where you are located in the states, but if you are interested in a first-class Lazy Daze repair facility on the west coast - here are the contact numbers.
Recommended by the Mother Ship. They are located north-west of San Diego in an old neighborhood.
These folks did some work for me recently, and the job was outstanding.
Their specialty is body repair and paint - and they do aluminum bodies and sheet metal. Todd at LD sent them whatever parts/decals were needed.
They have a first-class paint shop, and the block long shop is loaded with Old-Time Custom autos that they are working on.
619-561-0187
Lakeside Auto Body
A&S Collision Repair, Inc
9786 Los Coches Road
Lakeside, CA 92040
Owner is George Toth - and the Manager is Trevor Green
They guys have been in business for almost 60 years in the same location.
I have no financial interest or any dog in this race other than to suggest a really good old-time work ethics shop.
Cheers!
Tony R. (aka codefour)
Hi Tony; Funny to hear that Lakeside is north west of San Diego. West would be really wet, and I live in the city limits but north of the central city. Lakeside is distinctly due east of central San Diego. I've never heard of the place, but It's nice to know that there is someone so close to me. I'd probably go to Montclair if I needed any work. RonB
Tony, thanks for the info on the repair facility. You may want to add it here:
REPAIR, MAINTENANCE AND SERVICE FACILITIES (https://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=29329.0)
In my younger years, having lived in Santee which is east of San Diego, I can attest to what Ron said. Lakeside is a little east of Santee. If needed, there is a campground in Lakeside at Lake Jennings:
Camping » Lake Jennings (https://lakejennings.org/see-and-do/camping/)
Thank you my friends!
Definitely EAST of San Diego......and I did post this to the Repair Recommendations list.
Todd was unable to take our coach last year because of Covid-19 - and he highly recommended these folks. And he was right on.!
Cheers!
Tony R. (aka codefour)
The weather has finally cooperated enough where I can begin addressing my rust bubbles.
Three photos attached of my end caps where I'm sure is the source of my water leak.
Photo 1: The cap gap after I cleaned out most of the caulk.
Photo 2: Temporary acrylic caulk covering a hole caused by water, forming a rust bubble. This hole is next two the end cap, rear driver's side.
Photo 3: End cap gap on right side of same end cap.
As I was cleaning out the caulk near the rust bubble 4 or 5 water droplets trickled out.
Question: I can not tear off and replace the end caps. Time, money and skills. Can I save do this for of extensive repair by cleaning to and recaulking the end cap gaps?
Many thanks!
Mark
PS: This is the only rust bubble that has rusted through. It's about the size of a quarter.
The caulk on the rust bubble was applied in the cold and mist. It is what it is.
The weather has finally cooperated enough where I can begin addressing my rust bubbles.
Three photos are attached of my end caps where I'm sure is the source of my water leak.
I was cleaning out the caulk near the rust bubble 4 or 5 water droplets trickled out.
Question: I can not tear off and replace the end caps. Time, money and skills. Can I save do this for of extensive repair by cleaning to and recaulking the end cap gaps?
Mark
You definitely need to reseal all the caps, do to try to remove them unless they are all ready to fall off. Good chance the window frames need to be resealed too.
If you search end cap repair and my user name, you will find detailed descriptions on how to seal the end caps and window frames, the normal sources of leaks.
I always recommend using a polyurethane sealant, due to its long service life.
Use stainless steel sheet metal screws evenly spaced, to pull the caps into place, if needed.
The gaps need to have the old sealant removed, cleaned well with solvent, and taped off, to keep the sealant where it belongs.
I would be concerned that there is rot in the corners, a common occurrence with end caps leaks
I would also check the bottom of the rear wall for rot.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157671788034655/'
Larry
Thanks for your help Larry.
I inspected the spare tire cargo area. No obvious water stains or mildew smells.
My LD has the rear queen with closets on either side. No water stains of mildew smells.
Do you think it wold be okay to clean and recaulk? We have rain in our forecast for the weekend.
Do you think duck tape would protect the end caps until better weather?
Thanks!
Mark
Do you think it would be okay to clean and recaulk? We have rain in our forecast for the weekend.
Do you think duck tape would protect the end caps until better weather?
Duct tape can leave adhesive behind and sometimes damage the paint. I prefer using Gorrila Clear tape for such purposes, it comes off clean.
It's best to wait for a dry period but if you can get it done before it rains, polyurethane is not damaged by exposure to water when it hasn't been fully cured.
Larry
Thanks Larry.
I was told to use Marine Sealant 5200. Is this a bad idea. One everything is recalled I have a body man who will make repairs a nd paint. Is it true paint won't adhere to poly?
Mark
I was told to use Marine Sealant 5200. Is this a bad idea. One everything is recalled I have a body man who will make repairs and paint. Is it true paint won't adhere to poly?
When sealing end caps and window frames, I always use 3M 5200 Fast Cure, it's still the best adhesive sealant I have found.
Paint doesn't stick to it permanently, since you already have a lot of gaps. I would be more concerned about keeping the frame dry, preventing rot, and stopping any present active rot. If you want to paint the poly, fine, just be ready to touch it up every year or two.
Larry
Thanks Larry.
I have 4 new tubes of regular 5200. The cure is 7 days.
Because this caulk is so expensive. Could I use the caulk I have?
I have 4 new tubes of regular 5200. The cure is 7 days.
Because this caulk is so expensive. Could I use the caulk I have?
Regular 5200 is fine. The seven-day cure means that once something has been glued, the 5200 is going to be very sticky for several days. Once an area is fixed, stay away from it until it finishes curing, it is easy at this point to accidentally touch it and mess up the surface.
Once cured, it performs the same as 5200 Fast Cure.
Larry
Here's a tip that's been posted here before, but is worth repeating. 3M 5200 has a tendency to get everywhere, no matter how careful you are. So what I do, and I know Larry does the same, is to wear several pairs of gloves--one over the other--so that when your gloves get messy, you can strip them off and go on working, protected by the pair underneath. I usually wear three pairs of nitrile gloves when working with 5200 or other messy sealants. I also keep a can of mineral spirits and a bunch of rags or paper towels handy. (3M recommends their General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner 08984, but I haven't tried that.)
The 5200 data sheet (https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/576967O/3mtm-marine-adhesive-sealant-fast-cure-5200.pdf) is worth reading before you start, if it's your first time with this adhesive.
Oh, one other tip: don't use alcohol when prepping the surfaces before applying 5200. Isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) is a very useful general-purpose cleaner/solvent, but this is one case where it's absolutely verboten, because it will stop 5200 from curing. Use acetone instead.
Here's a tip that's been posted here before, but is worth repeating. 3M 5200 has a tendency to get everywhere, no matter how careful you are. So what I do, and I know Larry does the same, is to wear several pairs of gloves--one over the other--so that when your gloves get messy, you can strip them off and go on working, protected by the pair underneath. It.)
I buy boxes of 100 5mm nitrile gloves and use them whenever things get messy...and things get real messy with 5200. Wear old clothes too, 5200 isn't easy to remove when wet and impossible once cured.
To ease the clean-up, I tape everything around the end cap or window frame where I do not want to get 5200 on, leaving a thin 1/8" gap for the sealant.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7311/28376497610_29506f6d0d_4k.jpg)
With 5200 Fast Cure, the tape comes off immediately after application and smoothing, The surface of 5200 FC begins to cure quickly, so removing the tape quickly eliminates disturbing the surface.
Regular 5200 takes a couple of days for the surface to cure, I'm not sure when to remove the tape due to my limited experience using it. You will want to experiment with it.
Larry
Larry
Thanks guys.
Sorry for all of the questions. Appears you only have one shot when using 5200. I ordered 3 tubes of the 5200 quick cure.
I have most of the seams cleaned out. I'm not sure if the old caulk was silicone. Will 5200 caulk over any silicone residue?
Do you smooth 5200 with a wet glove?
Mark
Nothing will adhere to silicone caulk, including more silicone caulk.
If it's on metal, the only solution is to remove everything down to the bare metal. If it's on plastic, I don't know whether there's any way to remove it sufficiently to allow sealant to stick. Maybe others who've had experience removing silicone can chime in.
I'm not sure what the old caulk is. I'm assuming it's white silicone.
I'm not sure what the old caulk is. I'm assuming it's white silicone.
Silicone is bad news and hard to deal with.
You need to sand the aluminum, as Andy said, and undercut the cap's edge and keep removing material until you hit clean plastic.
I would first try a utility knife. Tape off everything first to reduce accidental damage.
it would be tempting to use a vibratory tool and a wood/metal blade to cut deeper into the gap.
Also, consider adding #8X 1" stainless steel sheet metal screws every 4"-6", keeping the spacing even for a factory look. The screws will add to the holding strength that may have been lost to silicone poisoning.
Drill pilot holes through the cap into the wood below and then drill the cap's holes slightly larger than the screw diameter, to prevent cracking the cap when tightening the screws. Use the screws to pull the caps in evenly, do not overtighten, and squeeze all of the sealants out.
Use a wet, gloved finger to remove excess sealant and to smooth the polyurethane.
Larry
Thanks Larry!
The caulk I removed was white. Hopefully that means it was not silicone.
I may take a chance and recaulk over it with #M 5200 quick.
I'll send you a a couple of photos of a section of the cap with the white caulk.
Have a great evening.
Mark
That brings up a good question: what's a definitive way to test whether a caulked seam is silicone or something else? Could one wipe with a solvent, and if the sealant doesn't get sticky, then it's silicone? Any ideas, folks?
That brings up a good question: what's a definitive way to test whether a caulked seam is silicone or something else? Could one wipe with a solvent, and if the sealant doesn't get sticky, then it's silicone? Any ideas, folks?
The only way with 100% certainty is bring these old caulk pieces to a lab and use FTIR spectrometer for an analysis. Their infra red spectra are totally different between silicone and regular hydrocarbon based caulk. Another way is to brush some thick paint and let it reach full cure, then try to peel off the paint. If it peels off, it is likely to be silicone or "siliconized caulk" in which silicone migrates to the top surface of the caulk during cure. If the paint sticks well, it is unlikely to contain silicone.
Mark … I’d suggest you call the Factory for guidance. I’ve found them to be quite helpful.
Thank you.
I called the factory regarding a rear window and frame install. They said they used Lock-tire and silicone.
I may do a test strip before I commit to a larger section. .
Mark
"Lock-tire and silicone."
---
Loctite (polyurethane sealant) OK, but silicone? For sealing what specifically did they say the silicone was used?
Silicone is used in sealing the window. Lock-tite used to secure window frame to window opening.
Additional photos.
Photo 1: White caulk residue. Almost looks and feels like an acrylic tub and sink caulk
Photo 2: End cap gap and screw hole. I removed the screw. I will fill this hole then drill and install screws above and below this hole.
Photo 3: End cap gap after removing old caulk.
Looking at a magnified view of Pic #1 I'd have to say it's not silicone and that whatever type of caulk it was, was applied too thinly to seal much of anything. It's not even adhering well to the fiberglass. ::)
The Factory does not uses silicone to glue anything .
They maybe using a polyurethane sold by Locktite.
I know of no easy way to determine what type of sealant was used. Common solvents do not dissolve silicone or polyurethane. Paint does not stick well to either.
Larry
For Larry.
Due to crappy rainy weather I've not been able to calk my end caps.
I purchase 5200 Fast Cure. You stated the tape needs to be removed immediately after applying the calk.
No wait time???
Thanks!
Mark
I purchase 5200 Fast Cure. You stated the tape needs to be removed immediately after applying the calk.
No wait time???
The 5200 Fast Cure skims over very quickly, wait too long and the tape tears at the edges of the sealant.
Larry
So as soon as I have the caulk applied remove the tape?
M
So as soon as I have the caulk applied remove the tape?
Push the sealant into the seam and smooth it out, using a gloved wet finger. When it looks good, pull the tape.
Larry
Thanks Larry.
I hope to finish this project if it ever stops raining.
Mark
I hope to finish this project if it ever stops raining.
Send some of it south.
Larry
Hi, I have been searching for days and finally found this topic to answer my questions. When I had bought my Lazy Daze, there was water rot on the back wall. They had to go in and redo it from both closets (I have a 30 IB) they didn’t go up higher which is where I have bubbles in my metal as seen above. I don’t feel out see damage inside there. I did have the entire rig scraped and resealed. I will go over it again to make sure nothing was missed. They had said that to go up higher they would have to take off the back wall and they weren’t able to do that. It was a resale RV Consignment Lot. I had called around and was quoted 20,000 for another place to do it. Since I had paid 26,000 plus another 15,000, I just didn’t have it to put out. Can I do this myself?
Hi Wendy; I'd have to see the damage from the aluminum oxide bubbles under the paint to really determine mitigation efforts.
If the holes aren't too large, in the past, (not LD), I'd clean out the edges, Bondo and sand, touch up paint will make it less obvious. Primarily stop the water intrusion from above! Sounds like you have done what you can in that regard. Pictures help us assess how bad the situation is. Welcome to the Forum. RonB
I had the same issue with my LD. You must reseal the roof and end caps. Lap seal all vents, Eternabond the roof seams, recaulk end caps with White 5200 Marine Adhesive Polyurethane Sealant. Check the rear clearance lights. Factory clearance light are crap and have the tendency to leak. Once you have rust bubbles they must be repaired. Clean out the rust and oxidation. Fill with fiberglass Bondo. Sand, prime and paint.
This is a big job. Take your time.
Good luck
I had called around and was quoted 20,000 for another place to do it. Since I had paid 26,000 plus another 15,000, I just didn’t have it to put out. Can I do this myself?
Removing the rear wall for repairs is a huge job for the pros, it's beyond the ability of most of us.
Follow Mark's suggestion to make sure everything is fully sealed, including around the window frame and even resealing the gap between the rear glass and its frame. The rear clearance lights are probably the cause of the corrosion although I have seen protruding staples in the plywood sub-layment cause this problem when they touch the aluminum skin.
Larry
Hi Wendi; A picture of the affected area would help us give you better advice. The severity has a lot to do with the difficulty involved. A high price from 'professionals", may just mean that they really don't want to do it. RonB
Hi Mark. I don't know what your expertise level is. Don't use any silicone sealer. Dap acrylic will seal for now, and be easy to remove. Eternabond is hard to work with, hard to remove, and meant for permanent repairs. Don't use that either. Same with 3M 4200, 5200 sealant. White duct tape applied carefully over the bubbles. It will make it worse if it traps more water in the wall, but if dry can protect it temporarily.
The fact that you had a plastic back window was a bad sign to start with. Auto body repair people also aren't the best. They work with cars, and your motorhome isn't a car. No steel, and wood isn't what they are used to fixing. Lazy Dazes are peculiar, almost one of a kind anymore. OK Thor and others do use wood framing, but not the same way as LD. You need to find an RV repair facility, that can fix water, roof leak and other location leaks. You'll have time to investigate potential repair locations in the next month or so. RonB
Oh my gosh, I just saw this after I went out and put Eternabond tape over my rust bubbles. Do I go out and remove it really quick? I didn’t have any type of sealer and I paid the place I bought it from to scrape and reseal the entire rig but now I have bubbles in my back wall, same scenario, I’m guessing.
Hi Wendi; A picture of the affected area would help us give you better advice. The severity has a lot to do with the difficulty involved. A high price from 'professionals", may just mean that they really don't want to do it. RonB
I can’t figure out how to add images. Can you tell me how please?
How to Post Photos (https://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=35583.0)
Oh my gosh, I just saw this after I went out and put Eternabond tape over my rust bubbles. Do I go out and remove it really quick? I didn’t have any type of sealer and I paid the place I bought it from to scrape and reseal the entire rig but now I have bubbles in my back wall, same scenario, I’m guessing.
Eternabond Tape is one way to fix the bubble leakage issue temporarily, now you need to find the source of the leak.
Leave the tape in place until you are ready to attack the corrosion. It could also be a long-term fix if you do not want to spend the money or fix it yourself. You need to determine if the leaks are still present, the end caps, clearance lights and windie frame are all suspsects.
As Ron pointed out, do not use silicone sealant for anything on the coach, it poisons the surface and it will not accept any future sealant with sanding the surface to bare metal.
Larry